Tony D

That first lock jiggles loose and it is unrestricted it comes up about 24" at 104mph....

Our LSR Effie showed 3mph in top speed reduction running the small BRE style spoiler versus 309# of lead shot in the spare tire well. Before adding the lead shot we had one 2mph faster run, and then lost traction on our third run of the day and managed to half-spin at 140mph...pulling the chute to prevent anything more hairy and gaining the distinction to be one of only a handful of people who have managed to run over their own chute leads and break them while on-course...

Are those HKS throttle bodies, BTW?

Most serious coolant systems are "bypass to cooler" setups. If you search the available external thermostats you will find those readily available. You will run full circulation from outlet to to inlet (and into the bottom of the radiator) until the thermostat heats up, at which time an exceedingly small portion of flow is sent to the radiator...consequently radiator cooled fluid will be admitted into the water pump inlet. Likely a 5/8" restrictor will be necessary to hold pressure when cold and ultimately restrict recycled flow when below thermostat opening temperature, but it is easily done. A simple 1/2" line out the end of the V2 water manifold casting would easily provide more than enough recirculating flow before warmup, and when equipped with a reverse-acting thermostat as discussed previously, could have that passage fully closed off by 170F insuring FULL pump capacity to the engine with no recirculating losses...and a simple inline thermostat in the upper radiator hose! Hope that makes sense the way I explained it. I think the old BMW stat was an example Imused on "junkyard sourcing" for people looking to source parts for their build that way ( or to order proven OEM items of known good quality )

Dighera's Law of Performance Automobile Ownership: "A car is a hole suspended in mid air by inedible rubber doughnuts. Into this hole you throw vast amounts of money, which you will never see again." Anybody predicating performance modification costs based on RESALE value is wrongheaded in the first place. Market escalation notwithstanding...

F54 Block, P90 Head at that.... CHT removed on that head. I'd say "meet you in the Cabela's Parking Lot" but you're a month late for me passing through from Pittsburgh to my bro's in St. Clair Shores. Lots of guys over on the West side of the state nearer GR and Grattan Raceway. There was a Car Club registered with the ZCCA and usually the guys in the club can do at least one of two important things: 1) Tell you where to go for work. 2) More importantly, tell you where to AVOID going for work! TimZ is in the Detroit Area... he's over 600HP on E85, I'm thinking he may be able to direct you to a couple of competent places to at least do the groundwork for you.

Passenger's footwell of any ford ranger, or the trunk of a Tempo-Topaz. It's the same one Pegasus racing sells...and out of the Tempo-Topaz it's possible to strip out over 6' of #10 feed wire. It's a direct interrupt to the fuel pump in those vehicles. Easily reset with a button. I put mine near the center tunnel behind the passenger's seat.

Feel Free to do what you wish. Why lock it if the OP has something to add eventually to close it properly?

That bracket is welded onto the head, so it's not stock. When you say'ports in head are square, but finish in round sleeves.... you mean they are aluminum ports and no thin sheetmetal liners? For a 78, that car would have had an N47, and my bet is this is something like an ATK Remanufactured head by a place that welded up the exhaust ports and added a CHT sensor on the side. When all the cores you have are N47 but you need round ports and a CHT sensor boss...what do you do? The roundness and chamfer of the ports makes it look very un-Nissan OEM. I have a confirmed 77 N42 Carburetted head from a Nissan Cedric in my 73, and it's rectangular ports just like any other N42.

I think gollum was meaning on a turbo with the squeeze... NA they were considerably higher. For a turbo the forged flat tops will be a godsend for bolting on and just boosting! That payback will be huge with a GT42R ....

I'm "Inland", unfortunately the Z-Hoarde is closed to Viewing as I am out of the country. The LSR Car is down in Los Alamitos at Dave's Place...

Generally yes... it will come up from the lower radiator hose inlet pipe to the bottom of the turbo, be heated and rise to the thermostat housing and the out into the radiator....

You're going to find that chamber really detonation resistant and the compression ratios being discussed are more inline with a turbo application. I think 11.5~12:1 will be a "normal" street build with this setup, and considerably more if you are going all-out N/A. It's not uncommon for the Turbo Honda guys to be running 10:1 with a level of boost which would surprise you!

^^^You see what you missed up there, right.... FPM CFM

Remember that those Fans are rated at more than CFM...that rating they give is at a specific static pressure. If they pump into someplace that doesn't let the air out easily then their rating goes DOWN. Also in stop and go, if you don't run the splash pan underneath to prevent the hot backside air from simply recirculating....goes without saying it will steadily heat up. If the car does not overheat at 30mph in 5th gear diving steadily (go find a flat open road in the desert and put your hazards on) then the issue is not in your cooling system, and you can assume the 2 sq ft of radiator air, being pushed at half a mile a minute (2,640 fpm---so by simple calculation: 5,280 Cfm) will cool your car. WHATEVER temperature the engine achieves in this status that's where you should have your fans kick on and off 5 to 10 degrees F Below... They should cycle in traffic like that. mine do and it's twin 10" units. My old Suzuki Fans worked similarly. In idle situations there is less heat added, but if it follows a run on the freeway that temp spike can cause issues of runaway that are hard to fix... Put a 24# Radiator Cap on the thing (no less than 16#) and see how it fares.

I just saw the ebay link while on my laptop. 10 turn trimming potentiometer, hooked to a surplus counting dial (I bought three of those for my generator throttles at work from ORVAC for $9 each...) Sounds like he has an rpm sensor box to act as rpm triggering, and then the shorting or incorporation of the variable resistor on the CTS line to the ECU. That would give you a fixed variable enrichment triggered at a specific spot. Think about an MSD 6A RPM Trigger Switch coupled to put the trim pot in parallel or series with the CTS Sender Circuit. Meh! Ships from Oklahoma, for $80 in shipping? SMFD!

Anybody seen "The Revenant"? I saw it recently on the plane....and reading this had scenes from that movie coursing through my mind...

Fun in the Sun! No help from Franc H. at that wiring harness? Where is his charity for poor Jack! LOL

An old Driveshaft stub and rubber trucker's strap stops that leak. They make plastic plugs for removing/installing trannies without draining. On some of the Datsun stuff, there are spray can tops that slip over the dust cover, and have an inner cup that snaps onto the spray can that slips right inside the seal lip as well...making for a super-cheap plug! I want to say "Wal Mart Carb Cleaner" is one of the caps that works...

When you make your own head, you can do what you want. When you work with what exists, you gotta do what you can with what you have. There are some advantages to having a large combustion chamber in the head... and in most cases you have to match the CC on the head with the largest chamber anyway. It wasn't uncommon on VW's to machine individual pistons to get CR equal on each hole. There is always the angle that a simple flat-topped piston is delivered on a stocking order and at a lower price than one with a dish machined into it...or a custom machined matching chamber-profile dish in it. Everything you say is possible, indeed. I just saw the 'small combustion chamber' comment, and wanted to give a real-world L-Engine Head example of a comparable aftermarket head: the OSG. It's a 35cc chamber, and takes a lot of work to get to 40CC's (which is important on a 3.4L engine, as how deep a dish do you really want to make?)

And it's really CTS....coolant temperature sensor. CHTS is on the later vehicles in the US Market, and the CHTS is generally 20F higher than the CTS, which is why they used it: puts the computer into closed loop faster, for emissions. Plus, more accurate under full load...

The 'fixed map' above 3500 is correct, but there is still temperature correction. Foolish to think it wouldn't have it--think of an engine not fully to 72C, on a -40C day, above 3,500.... The Coolant Temperature will still correct, but the 'fixed map' will be pulling out fuel past peak torque anyway, proportionally. Thinking further, on boosted old school applications, you would have hobbs pressure switches with resistors spliced into the circuit to bias the Coolant Temperature Bias... You can add a LOT of fuel if that sensor is biased appropriately....enough to absolutely drown the engine in fuel and wet-foul the plugs! For a turbo, it was messy way to do it, but you stayed 'safe-rich' and tapered to ideal before going slightly rich again...and once past torque peak it was pulling fuel just like it should!

Posts to Australia only? That Hoarder!

The CC's figure I used was for an OSG build currently underway. PMC took extreme pains to get the CC up to 40 from where it was when he got the head. At 18 degrees total advance, the CR can be a bit higher than you think... I'm throwing those numbers out for reference as it's difficult on a non-pent-roof chamber to run that kind of compression without racing gas...but you also need 37 degrees of total advance to get peak cylinder pressure at the proper point. Fast-Burn heads always tolerate more compression on pump gas than most people will think...