Tony D

My stock 260ZT won't reach temp idling, period. I have to drive it to get a tempersture above around 150. Idling in the driveway with the Nissan CHT, it won't get Ho 160 unless I put some sort of load on the car. Drive half a mile down the road and I'm regulated nicely between 165-170. But idling? Sits at 150-153 forever on am 80-05 degree day. Likely lower colder... Heater on "Heat" with no fan will bump the nber somewhat. That's reading it on the MS Datalogger and Megatune.

Several things: Yes, summer and winter thermostat. The temp should NOT go to 210 in Yhe summer if you have sufficient rejection on the radiator. If I can tow a trailer uphill with a three core at 85mph in 115-120F Palm Springs Desert Heat, and keep ROCK STEADY temps WITHOUT the 5/6 mod...you should have no issues at all! Remember the mod DECREASES the differential between front and back of the engine, it doesn't completely eliminate it. If you're 210 at the thermostat, you're 215-220 at Thr back of the head. That can still cause issues if you don't have at least a 16# radiator cap. Did you route the 5/6 mod to be controlled by the thermostat, or put it to the upper portion of the thermostat, bypassing it? JeffP made his block for the wYet from that point to come either spot by changing the thermostat position-there was an issue when we didn't have them controlled by the thermostat. This post would be a good addition to the sticky on the mod in the FAQ/Stickies forum.

Avid does in Spain...but for the extra 5€ TAKE THE BMW 320d over the Jetta EVERY time!!'

Unless you have your own dedicated container, I'd seriously recommend having the parts physically ON (as in installed) the car when you ship it for both Revenue Bureau scrutiny, and reducing the chance of nice new parts "evaporating" during shipment. If it's RORO, have the car complete when you drop it at the shipment point.

Oh, stock Todd will stretch, but unless you are at 8000+ I'd not consider it much...

I keep a used head gasket around for just this purpose. "Clay the Head" With the plugs out and a light coating of release agent (preservative oil) put middling clay on the head of each piston, assemble the engine, and rotate it through a full combustion cycle. Remove the head and with a caliper you can then check valve clearance to piston, piston to head, and if you get fancy with a graduated beaker, combustion chamber volume. If you at coming up shy right now, I would seriously consider taking 0.010 to 0.015" off the piston heads. This is the standard method on flat-top pistons. Gives you a good excuse to keep a compressed (old used) head gasket hanging from a nail on the shed wall!

I'll give ya $100 for the pair...

44's for sure, as well. 165 are 40's, and 175's are 44's.

If they're 175's then they're aftermarket Mikuini Solexes, and not Toyota OEM offerings. The real early Toy Carbs had a 44mm lead in, and used 44mm ventures and boosters with a removable sleeve that necked the air cleaner end down to 40mm. That was held in by the front setscrew under the carb body (nearest air cleaner end) many guys would run them without the sleeves. Wolf Creek Racing should have information on the parts. If they're old enough they may be a different style of Jet Block than isost common, but everything is still available for both models. Looks like the bodies could use a Vanish Toilet Bowl Cleaner dunk, and maybe a glass beading...

What number is stamped on the throttle ares? 175 or 175? Because they sure do look like 1972/73 Toyota Carbs from an 18RG-R. And those are 40PHH, just oooold. The stamp on the plate will tell you that. Usually 44's don't have that hole I'm the body drilled and tapped, but the Toy Carbs it's a dead giveaway. I couldn't enlarge the photos on my iPhone, so that's my closest guess. It wouldn't be the first time someone sold a set of them misidentifying them as 44's on a manifold or engine. From the inlet end and externally, they are identical to 44's, unlike non-OEM Mikuni Solexes.

I'd drop it more than that...

I have no idea how iPhone autocorrect comes up with "Hertz" from "VW"...

Hertz TDI then, I commented that an engine transplant of one of those would be transparent to most Z Drivers the way they drive: peppy if you shift at 3k, and no problem buzzing along TH 5400 and 90mph in 3rd every so often...

Autocorrect on mobile devices is maddening...

Expressway was 60kph posted, I passed three cars, two left, one right with a quick lane change L-R-L doing 200kph without thinking that it probably looked a lot like the second pass on that video. The opening was there and I was coming so fast they couldn't floes up on me. I was past and pulling away as they all flashed their lights in turn. I was around the curve Egan the last car didn't only flash his headlights...he turned the one on top of his car on as well... Going that fast, sometimes you miss the gumball on the roof...D'OH!

My little bit of wisdom if "factoid" is usually grossly misused, as people misunderstand the original meaning of the word was meant to convey false information presented as true. It's refreshing to see it almost applied correctly here. Cut you oil with diesel, maybe. Run straight fuel oil in place of lubricating oil? Not on your life. I dirtied X's comments elsewhere...

The block isn't grounded unless you have Hindu tube fuel lines, or solid engine mounts. The stock car is very poorly executed when it comes to electrics, I think their engineers took too much to heart from those original Austin Kits after the war... But yeah, you will benefit from a ground strap across the engine mount, as well as trans mount. All the engine grounding goes through the alternator to the chassis master ground on the right frame rail. It often corrodes at connection point, or the main wire craps out. Additional small ground straps will mitigate the effects of this degradation. A wire of #8-10 from the negative post to the chassis someplace out back will help restore that factory bond like the stock setup had. Chassis grounds were a wire from negative to firewall, from the negative wire on the alternator to the right chassis rail, and then off the harness in the back behind the splash guard of the filler neck (to the smaller chassis stiffener rail above the tank). Any of them get degraded and you can start having weird electrical problems. Watch the old GM cars and they had small braided ground straps all over to give continuity to various points on the chassis to the engine. I think this was due to the chassis rusting away to nothing so quickly, as you can have a car rusted to nothing and all the electricals will still work! GM should get dome credit for their attention to grounding as electrical loads increased, they did a nice job making sure it worked for quite a while. By the 90's, somehow, they unlearned it...

And generally the phrase is "factory stock" meaning as the car was produced. Next level you have is "port additions" which my be things that (for instance) the Nissan Importation SALES AGENT would have added at the port of entry to a particular Market (special turn signals, A/C, sunroofs, mag wheels, almost anything) Last was"Dealer Additions" which could be virtually anything, including port added accessories that a local sales agent coul obtain cheaper and install locally themselves for more margin. No LHD 240Z's came with "Stock" A/C. But on a 260 or 280Z you could have "Factory" Air, or Port added air that was the same unit, OR NOT. at the same time you could have "Dealer" added air which could be the same unit as Factory Air, OR NOT. in all cases a sunroof was either Port or Dealer additions, none was "Factory" or "Stock", they were all AFTERMARKET additions. Which goes to Nissan North America NOT being " The Factory " they were a sales company. The cars were sold to NNA, and they then did what they did, and from an OEM standpoint they were all AFTERMARKET accessories without any warranty liability to Nissan Japan (with the notable exception of the port added A/C units which were Nissan Japan approved and had install instructions in the FSM!

You may want to read what you wrote and Chang something... Otherwise you just said what I did...

Oh, and 0.003" shrink can be easily accomplished by LN2 accompanied with heat. Afterwards, the parts will be as-one, requiring a hydraulic press to separate.

Remember the instructions in "How to Modify" ... A loose fit is NOT what you want. Zero clearance is a slip-fit, any interference would be due to angled installation and binding. The closer the fit, the more important it is to get it started straight or there can be binding, burring, or otherwise gouging on the crank snout which will cause problems.

They sell whole cranks for the L-Series in Japan and the USA that have nothing to do with a Nissan Core...

Get the drivetrain out of a Eurospec M3D or even a BMW 320D and fit it to the car. Chip alone upgrades will take you to 188hp at the rear wheels and over 330n-m torque. Similarly, retrofit of the Nissan Frontier TD27 or newer Z-Series 3 litter four cylinder will net you 170+HP out the box, with killer torque and a transmission we already knows fits in the cars. The LD28 is an old-tech mechanical diesel, and though Mythbusters did indeed prove you CAN polish a Turd, the technology has advanced so far in fuel control that using the original mill simply doesn't make any sense. The modern offerings from European Breakers make the prospect of a modern BMW Turbofiesel retrofit FAR more appealing. FAR more power, better mileage, better NVH, and current parts availability. I have several LD28's, but it's getting iffy about using them as more andorr 320's hit the yards in Europe and the drivetrain prices keep dropping! The A/R you want on the diesel is not the petrol 0.63, but rather 0.48. Good luck with that one. I'm not selling any of mine! There are posts on this topic as well, one guy was doing checks on mileage and power with the pump aneroid connected and disconnected (boost compressed fueling)... There's a sea of info out there on this, have you gone to the Nissan Diesel Forums yet?

You have a burr. 0.003" oversize should slip on like a Vegas Pro...

This ain't yer daddy's Z-Mobile! LOL