Tony D

The low battery voltage contributing to your cut out above 4500 rpms is classic dirty connections, I think if you clean all the ECU pins, sensor connections, and injector connections you will have even better response above that point. The resistance builds in the injector connectors primarily, and that inhibits their correct working, if it's acute enough the ECU goes into failsafe and your mileage goes all to hell!

Don't know if this will work, but here's an RX7 used in the same way from 1987: Facebook Link to 1st Gen RX7 Police Car

Uh, REVERSE THOSE DIMENSIONS! You won't see anything in those locations, but your PASSENGER will work wonders telling you where to go! The diagram is for a RHD vehicle, posted by Alan Thomas at Classic Z website. There IS a proper LHD interposition if you are mounting them on an LHD vehicle listed there. You will be sorely disappointed with the field of view in an LHD car, if you mount the mirrors in the RHD position. Yes, it DOES make that much difference!

Where are you taking this temperature???

it also changes the flywheel register diameter, if it fit on the spacer, it would be obvious when bolting it up.

Change to a more efficient turbocharger, and the heat drops considerably. 380ftlbs on a J-Pipe un-intercooled, 8.39psig @ 4500 rpms

From a former RATSUN post where the guy had a short-block still in the Nissan Crate for $850.... (last year) I'm putting it up for Burton to use kind of as a 'junkyard guide' when calling the hotlines for suitable donors locally. Good Luck!: The VK45DE is used by Nismo for Super GT races with the Nissan GTR instead of using the GT-R's VR38DETT twin-turbo V6 engine. The VK45DE was previously used in Nissan's 350Z Super GT car, replacing the previous VQ used in that car in 2007. In race trim, the Super GT VK45DE produces 490 hp and 380 ft·lbf of torque. The engine idles at around 3500 RPM and is restricted to the above specified power output. Without such restrictions, the engine is reputedly capable of producing nearly 790 hp Nismo reasons that by using the engine, they eliminate turbo-lag, save weight and generally prefer the torque curve of the atmospheric V8. This engine is used in the following vehicles: 2002–2006 Infiniti Q45, 340 hp (250 kW) 2003–2008 Infiniti FX45, 315 hp (235 kW) and 446 N·m (329 ft·lbf) 2003–2004 Infiniti M45, 340 hp (250 kW) and 451 N·m (333 ft·lbf) 2006–present M45, 325 hp (242 kW) and 461 N·m (340 ft·lbf) 2004–present Nissan Fuga 450 GT, 333 hp (248 kW) and 461 N·m (340 ft·lbf) 2003-present Nissan President 280 PS (280 bhp) and 451 N·m (333 ft·lbf) 2007 Super GT 350Z, 490 hp (370 kW) and 52 kg·m (510 N·m; 380 ft·lbf) 2008 Super GT GTR, 490 hp (370 kW) and 52 kg·m (510 N·m; 380 ft·lbf)

Howler Monkey has necroposted the truth... This is the "Factory BOV" and does the same job as an atmospheric valve, without the noise and with some added benefits. Because it vents to the plenum on drop throttle, it supplies much needed oxygen to help combust any HC that may have happened before injector shutoff. It also pumps pressure into the plenum preventing a massive vacuum spike which will increase oil consumption. Because all the METERED air from the AFM is actually going through the engine, this helps with preventing the drop-throttle rich condition those with improperly vented BOV's face as well. Remember in the Bosch AFC system, you can not simply exhaust air which has been metered by the AFM, it HAS to go through the engine somehow. Whether that is dumping into the turbo inlet, or into the plenum on drop-throttle it makes no difference. But the extra puff into the plenum helps with emissions, oil consumption, and some could argue egt... so that was where Nissan Engineers decided to vent it. It's capacity to flow is deceiving, because you are venting across a very high valve delta-p. This is not dumping 7 psi to atmosphere, no no no! It's dumping 7psi to a -11 to -14psi environment. This higher delta-p allows for a smaller orifice than would normally be required to dump to atmosphere.

Who needs stripes? STRIPES do NOT indicate a ZX-R, neither does the tail. Inclusion on the list from Nissan of the 1000 VIN's make the car a ZX-R. True, they all had stripes and a tail, but it was that list which said which were 'official' for the homogolation body. And is what qualified it as a 'limited production run'---then to qualify to let all privateer racers use the parts, they were made available through the distribution network. If you're car isn't on that VIN List, it's a 'replica' like many out there... Frank's car "is on the list".

No, why would any aftermarket be cast....and with a full inertia-ring? That cap pops right off anyway (with a little heat...) I suspect internal clearances...

My Mother swore a lot, and blashpemed the last time I went for a drive in my Z and she in the car. "Mother, your language! Do you kiss dad with that mouth?"

It's not really as application-specific as you think. Have you tried fitting a 79 ZX unit yet?

I wouldn't say that at all. The NISMO header in the above photo, fit like a stock exhaust manifold. So did it's companion exhaust (which was a basic copy of the Z432 setup)... Hung with stock hangers, didn't rub on anything, didn't matter if it was automatic or standard... Fit like a factory-engineered piece should. Now some of the crap that was out there on the aftermarket from Sam's Headers and BBQ.... THOSE may have been nightmares. I was fortunate...I cut my teeth on the JDM side, and thought all headers fit like Factory Exhausts because of it...till I came back to the USA and found my first 240 with a US-Made Mass-Produced "Header"....

Actually I met up with a bloke named Jacob from Australia, and he tagged along with me and Mr. Okamura to the Toyota Megaweb. He had a nice 'Japan Car Guide' which gave directions on how to find everything that is anything in Japan (in ENGLISH!) plus Japanese for your occasional Taxi ride. Stuff? Fresh bumpers, grilles, lights, interior parts, all sorts of crap. There were 20 vendors who cancelled due to predicted rain. I can't imagine what it would have been like had they all been there! I spent money. Okamura said I was crazy... Looks like I land at Kingsford Smythe Airport for another Banzai Run to Eraring on the 26th... At least my Vodaphone stays active! I'll ring you if I get the time, have another engineer tagging along and we may have to rideshare. Don't know his disposition quite yet, first job in the field together.

I would say that estimate on the price is fair if the car doesn't have the dashboard! With a dash, even cracked to death, it's worth another $100 at least. Anything below $500 would probably be a fair price for what he's showing. Frankly, I tried that with someone who was 'parting' a Fairlady one time. He was CONVINCED he would make more money with 99 cent reserve auctions on E-Bay. After winning the first, I offered him $500 for the entire car sight unseen--and asked for photos. He blew me off. I then proceeded to buy the dashboard for $48. The steering column with combination switch for 99 cents. The entire heater/AC system for 99 cents. Entire PEDAL CLUSTER for 99 cents! The shipping was not marked up as usual for the low-reserve options. In all I bought like $150 worth of parts off the car(shipping included!!!( LOL) If he would have even responded to my comments to send photos I would have given him a LIST of stuff to take and paid whatever he wanted, or $500 whichever. Some guys can't see the forest for the trees sometimes. There is stuff on those cars that, while not particularly glamorous, just CAN'T be found. For instance, the driver's side latch on a 2+2 seat... Think about it! It's like me going to the ZCON one year and a judge asking me about where they could take points off on a Fairlady Z... Looked inside and said "wrong console"---the cover hinged open to the LEFT. All the guy really needed to do was move the hinges and blocker plates...but he didn't. That's one you can 'fix' if you buy a complete new part. But try finding those electric mirror adjustment knobs and proper mounting bracket! (Hint: 200SX...) The big parts are EASY, it's the SMALL STUFF that ends up killing you! (Both in terms of a good conversion, and in costs!)

Good Luck! You should have a good source in a few seconds after you get the meter in action. Where 'switched power' comes from is not that critical on the stock ECU's like it is on a MS conversion. Pick a noisy line for a MS and it can cause problems...

Ball bearings run fine dry unless they are rusted. Actually the worst thing you can do is put a coating of oil onto the bearing before it starts rotating. This will cause the ball to 'slide' and possibly flat-spot the ball. This induces vibration. One of the hardest thing I had to do at a former manufacturer was fight other engineers about 'pre-lube pump operation' before startup on our ball bearing machines. Since API called for an prelube circuit, it was hell convincing them that was for journal bearings, not BALL bearings! Ball bearings work best starting dry, then having coolant introduced shortly thereafter before significant head builds and damages any races or balls. They should run fine dry, unless pitted, corroded, or gummed up with remnants of prior substandard lubricants. You may flush light solvent through that lube orifice, and see what you get out. Rotate it, and see what happens when it's all dried out. BTW, JeffP is now up in Reno, halfway there man... now all we got to do is get him to quit playing around and changing things and we all make a road-trip for a visit!

To answer the O.P. directly about "do all WBO2's go through this warmup cycle"---YES. This is driven by federal regulations for the engines going onto closed-loop operation within 30 seconds of startup. (This is the goal of minimizing 'cold start emissions' by forcing closed-loop operation and catalyst light-off ASAP after starting of the engine.) That became the standard, our WBO2's were derived from OEM offerings, not the other way around. Almost universally the heating process is aided by FAST IDLE, but starting the car, or keying on the power and relying on the internal heater to warm the sensor...are two different scenarios. Heater alone it will take 30 seconds at the most. Turning the car on to fast idle from cold, and using the heater will drop that time---that is the design criteria to pass OEM Emissions Tests. If someone keys on the car, but doesn't start it....when they do start it the sensor is available for closed-loop operation immediately. The they just fire it off, the sizing of the sensor heater will ALWAYS insure the car is in closed loop no longer than 30 seconds after that point according to OEM Emissions requirements. As stated, they use the Upstream Sensor from a VW, this has fast enough response, and good enough resolution in the OEM computers to actually read individual cylinder firings and misfiring to trigger diagnostic codes. It's a very fast working and durable sensor. It's not 'idiot proof' for hookup, it's really a fairly sophisticated analytical sensor and care needs to be taken in installation. Anybody who worked with Megasquirt early on realized it didn't take a lot of ground-plane voltage to screw/skew your readings or mess up your readings. Low voltages generated by the sensor require a good unified ground-reference in common with the rest of the sensors or you can skew one or the other through ground plane voltages. When you compare it to lab-grade Horiba EGO Machines, the performance for the cost is actually really amazing when you consider the costs involved.

I see Darius is now linked at huffpost comedy as "Stunt Driver Takes Mother for a Ride".... "Stunt Driver"

Send it in, JeffP's GT35R will spin after shutdown for a good minute. You can hear it still spinning away freely after all the commotion of the engine is shut down! You can blow in the inlet with a good puff and get it to move.

They all start that way "Rich and Idling High"---so far so good. Better than 'barely ticking over with a glowing red exhaust manifold'! (Nobody mentioned by name! )

I wouldn't say that car is really rusted. The parts that are rusted are compatible with US Market parts (the floors)---pieces to lust after are the electric windows! They would fit in any 74-early 76 2+2 very nicely with some rewiring to make the double switch on the lefthand side! Frankly, it would be cheaper buying that and repairing the rust with a solid LHD Donor than it would be to do a conversion!

Order in a big connector and do them all at once. The heat is not a problem for the resistors. They're ceramic. I replaced the dropping resistor factory connector with GM Weatherpack using the 81 resistor which has all six in one connector, and not the 2X4 configuration on the earlier cars. I don't think they are 'failure prone' so there shouldn't be an issue direct wiring them. What I found is inside the 4X2 configuration they all go to common lines---the only difference on the common 6 connector is it's run that way from the same lines. The 4x2 connector links inside the harness the 4 & 2 connectors to a single wire, then that wire goes to the same place as the 6 single wires does. They just use the larger wire, and crimp it directly to the six individual wires that go into the resistor directly. When you cut into the harness, you will see what I mean. Where the 4X2 crimps together, just solder or crimp all your 6 leads and you can use the later single resistor. If you wanted you could bolt together 2 of the 4 resistor units in your direct wire plan, then on the very remote chance that you had an issue with one individual resistor some time in the future, you would simply swap wires in the harness without having to remove everything. I probably have photos someplace of my conversion using the 81 resistor and weatherpack. It was kind of unwiedly...but I used Weatherpack everywhere else...so I was kinda stuck!

I've got to ask---did you check your flywheel end-play? I, in 25 years+ of working on these engines have NEVER seen that! The ONLY thing I can think of is that it's an L20B flywheel with an extra-big inertia ring. I put my L28 Flywheel on the Boy's L20B Automatic Conversion...no issues. That would be a reach. It's not from an LD28, the only other heavy flywheel with different thickness---no positioning dowel in the bolt pattern. Which leads me back to a badly worn center thrust bearing allowing the crankshaft to float forward like that. Was this engine running previously? Is it a manual transmission engine? What is the diameter of the friction face on the flywheel?

Some of the aftermarket Mustang Shifters have a better insulation possibility at the adjustable joint halfway up the shifter. Sandwich a little phenolic in there and the heat doesn't go up the handle as bad.