Tony D

The point I was making for the general readership is that by being even a bit sloppy, and 'never' going higher than the specifications in the manual, you can seriously overtorque a fastener, leading to failure. Clean bolts may indeed need to be what it used. In other cases engine oil is called out for lubricant under-head or on the threads. Search and know the lubricant state of the bolt, nut, stud you are tightening!

Who put anybody on a pedestal? It's a car for sale ad. Wow...

If they are G-Nose Covers, the vendor at the Swap Meet on Odaiba Island outside Tokyo was asking 77,400 yen for them... Yen sits at 77 to the dollar right now... I spent more money there than I have at all car shows and swap meets I've attended in the USA in the past 5 years! Actually, I like the nose treatment. I'm kind of with Chaparral on this one... FYI: The headlight covers ordered from Japan in 1985 should have only cost around $250 for the pair at any North American Nissan Dealer. At that time G-Nose complete was around 3 Grand, and in Japan was $1,700 including covers (which at the time were 30,000 yen, and roughly $111, but sold here in the USA for $250, almost a 100% markup.) Since then parts pricing has gone up. Currently I think the last pair of REAL JDM covers NIB went for $600.

Yeah, the 'it's someone else's car' comment was pretty good. It may be yours, from history...but you lost your connection when you started farming it all out. It was subtle, but it was an awakening that no matter how much money you have, it doesn't mean you can hurt the ones you love. The car must be rebuilt... As was said in the movie: "you owe it to yourself, and the car..." Eric's mate, trying to buy the 80's time capsule off the other guy "Name your price!" Paraphrased Reply: "Oh, I can't, I'd wake up one day and start drinking andtaking drugs if I sold it!"

Speaking of that...if you have a small porta-power you can generate these pressures via hydraulic action. Were you to have a dedicated, small hydro pump with very low capacity and a good gauge you could fill the cooler, lines, and pump with reefer oil, then pump away to hydrostatic pressure. Leaks could be easily identified with UV Dye (since most comp oil now has UV Tracers in it) and you simply flush it all out with Alcohol when you're done. Oil is cheap. So are porta-power heads in need of a seal kit! Just another alternative...

"Thinking the spark was getting blown out, I dropped plug gap from .030" down to .025". It ran great for the first 4 laps again in my second session, and started the missing thing all over again." That would indicate to me something heating up and dropping efficiency. I can't believe Coil-Packs would be overheating in those circumstances, and the dropping of the gap didn't change the onset of the phenomenon so it doesn't look coil-voltage related. As for laptop passengers, there are some Dell, and other NETBOOKS that are cheap with a gob of memory that are small enough to literally screw to the side of the transmission tunnel under some cushioned straps. The all solid-state units could write directly to drive as well for the datalog and not have the possibility of write-errors. You can strap an ECU in, make a computer platform and screw it down the the floor and there shouldn't be an issue. I would look internal to the box, I would think the coil driver is heating up under the extended higher RPM loads you're experiencing, or some other nebulosity. This may sound completely bizarre, but have you got a fitting in your inlet between the inlet filter and the turbo? Ventilate the MS Box and run a tube to continually suck air through the box (or maybe operate it with the cover off, or will a small computer fan blowing on the internals with the cover off.) If this improves it, then you know the heat related problem is inside the box. When JeffP was having issues with the Nissan Box just for S&G we shot a thermal scan of the kickpanel inside his ZXT...damned if it wasn't 150+ behind that plastic! We left the cover off and drove around then tried again and the problem went away. Ventilating solid state components is a good idea, regardless of their 'service rating'---a box at 70 degrees works more reliably, long term than one at 140! If you can find them 'temp-a-cals' (don't know if that is the right term) are a great way of determining maximum temperatures of hard-to-get-to components. They are temperature-indicating decals that turn 'red' to indicate the maximum temperature encountered. We stick them on some starter cubicles in a concealed spot to verify ambient rise in case of warranty. "Silent Sentinel" kind of theory. You may be surprised to see how hot some items are getting when at the track compared to leisurely driving on the street!

"only" & "ever" That's like "always" & "never".... "Of James' manifolds" would be a fair qualifier. There are more fabricators out there... That being said, 'nice piece'! The stock manifold supports a lot of horsepower (JeffP, for instance), but even Jeff's Extrude-Honed Stock Manifold is (by flowbench testing) flowing 30CFM @ 25" H2O less per hole than his head is capable of flowing. That kind of increase is substantial. Jeff admits his hard-headedness on this point, and it was only because he wanted to see if it could be done that he did it. For a little more than the cost of the extrude-honing you could apparently buy that manifold. Seems like a deal to me if you don't need that stock-looking manifold under the hood! Not too sure on the advertising of the object being '240/260Z ALL' applicable...it's an EFI pattern manifold so you need a head with the four-bolt top attachment. It is not a 'universal' flange like A Hillborn, Eggers & Vickers, or some of the other aftermarket flanges now available which have the Carb Pattern Stud Holes.

Same boat here! Late model VW engines were produced with hydraulics and their implementation took some of the soul away from owning an air-cooled Type-1... But there are some times that not having to crack the valve covers every 3,000 miles is welcome (Yes, you read it right, you will do 10 valve adjustments in the time you will do one on a Z!) As far as conversion articles, it's common sense: buy the timeserts, unscrew the hydraulic lifters, screw in the adapters and ballstuds/locknuts from a donor mechanical head.....adjust and run. Synopsis, admittedly, but I too don't have time to search for someone else right now...

anybody with a large diameter shaft will have that issue. But neither part moves much in relation to the other. Seems the differential mount is much stiffer in compression than tension! Man, my strap is trashed on the Turd. Was under there yesterday doing the driveshaft/tranny thing. Only to find my 'new' JY tranny has a balky second synchro, and the 5th gear pops out sometimes when I lift-throttle.

I got the DVD, stoopid me! Wrong Region, and PAL to boot. Oh, wait, region-free DVD player, all is well... Best quote: "You would think as he got more money he would buy something better, but he still drives the same piece of shite..."

Egads, I've succeeded in pushing hits to ZCar.com by rendering competent technical assistance....SHITE!

Er, yeah...

Um, did you buy a hydraulic grind from Schneider? I was unaware of anybody grinding aftermarket cams for the juiced heads. As you can see reading your FSM, the juiced head is self-adjusting, measurement is not possible, you just fire it up and run it. If you have a cam card which specifies anything other than 'zero lash' methinks you done bought a mechanical cam, and have some experimentation to do to see if it will work at all, I don't know anybody who has put a mechanical grind into a hydraulic head and run it before... Praytel, please keep us posted on the results!

No, there is a blue book from kelly that covers your car, KBB for old cars. OK, so you 'deduct' 750 as a charitable contribution. Now repeat after me: You now use that charitable contribution by entering it on line 17 of form 1040A, attaching (MUST ATTACH) form 8283 if over $500, those are totaled on line 19 , added to all your other itemized deductions to decrease your AGI by taking line 29 from 1040A and entering it on line 40 of form 1040, which is then subtracted from your AGI as entered on line 37 of your 1040 (carried forward)....it's then added up and other manipulations done...where long story short your 'deduction' becomes the difference of a couple of lines on the Tax Tables. This DOES NOT mean you get $750 or whatever money you claim as a deduction BACK from the government in the form of a tax refund...it means you decrease your AGI by an incremental ammount and you maybe save $25 on your tax bill. If you are lucky and run on a breakpoint of a tax bracket, it can mean a percentage difference in some cases.... But if you think you just write down $4000 for the value and you get $4000 back...don't happen that way. AT BEST you will get the tax marginal rate saved...like I said AT MOST it will be around $1000. More realistically it will be less. Far less. And if you or your mother doesn't itemize? Fugadaboudit! Speaking of Italio-American Heritage, remember they never got Mr. Capone on his rum running, numbers, or any other illegal activities....they got him on TAX EVASION. If you all of a sudden claim a $4000 deduction for charity and last year you claimed $15? Yeah, that won't raise a flag...not at all! Seriously, it doesn't work the way you think...hope this makes it clear. I know, I'm looking at $21K of itemized deductions on my 2009 refund sitting here in my lap now. This year it almost wasn't worth it to itemize. Next year? Who knows? It will be interesting. Now lets compound this and live outside the USA for 230+ days a year, but never stay in one place for more than 180 days.... Anybody know a good tax lawyer? I got to get someone to tell me about IRS Pub 54 and some technical definitions. I'm not asking the IRS, that rarely works to get a GOOD interpretation. I'm considered (best I can tell) "Itinerant" and can declare my tax residence anywhere I have a house. This has advantages. And I need to move to take advantage of that income exemption! The less I pay the better...

Technically the mechanical is supposed to supply the engine. You need to see if you are making 7psi at 5500rpm+. If you're not, chances are the float bowls are running dry and causing problems. An electric may help with delivery, but in reality that's just band-aiding a bad situation. If you had plugged inlet screens you would be falling flat at higher rpms under load, but fuel pressure would be O.K., maybe even a little high. If the suction screen on the electric pump was restricting it, you will have low fuel pressure (now that the inlet screens are cleaned)... so maybe you will have to bypass the electric pump out back (put in a different fuel filter) and make another pass to see what happens. If you have 5-7psi at 5500 you should have enough fuel. I think 1.5-3.5 at idle speed is the low end. With the stock system as the RPMS rise, so will the fuel pressure. This can be a real pita. I had a plugged premuffler restricting my engine on the top end, but how the hell do you find that one quickly? (You don't! } Good Luck!

Now it the time to check your fuel pressure under full load at the top of third gear...that is when it will start to fall short...

"Have already seen others using the singh grooves." More than willing to look, from the OEM guys I talk with.... not in their liftime from what they saw working with Singh directly. I guess you are saying the inventor didn't know how to apply his work in a fully instrumented test lab with datalogging capabilities (B&S)... I just wanted to make sure that was what you are saying.

"And wouldnt the tax deduction be as much as what I payed for it? " What you 'get' is a decrease in AGI when you file your itemized tax return. For this if it exceeds a set percentage of your AGI you may be able to get a tax reduction equal to a percentage of the value donated. Basically, your taxation rate (say 28%) would be the most I would expect you to get on your taxes. Meaning $4000X0.28=1120 reduction in taxes....maybe...

Keep in mind it DID run....till it was taken apart. Better look at the actual payback on your alleged 'tax deduction'...

Actually traction IS a problem on grooved concrete. The Maxton strip in NC needed extensive work to become 'smooth enough' to support real high speed runs. Concrete is not as smooth as many people think. The Salt in Utah is using gravity and evaporation to make a water-leveled smoothness. Drag a heavy iron rail over the tops of the pressure-ridges in the salt, and it becomes far smoother than most concrete on the interstates. The last thing you want at 180mph is to go from one section of concrete to another where the suspension unloads...scary!

Oh, and another little thing about court cases. Evans can say whatever he wants. Doesn't mean it happened that way. I've been sued and people made absolutely false statements against me---OUTRIGHT LIES---and they are all in the court records, just like this one. Doesn't mean they are true. If I wanted to pay $50,000 to recover $11,000 in lawyers fees, I could press it. But personally I don't put that kind of money forward for such an inverse payback regardless of the principal at stake. I carried a copy of the $1,100 check the court ordered paid to me by the plaintiff, for he was judged to have lost the case by statute. That was good enough for me, and most of the customers who asked me about the lawsuit and it's outcome.

A Patent based on "FIRST SALE" (yes, riscard, READ your link!) being invalidated----is EXACTLY what I said in my earlier posts: GM did this testing in the late 50's and KNEW the benefits. And when someone (like web companies buying up web domain names and then extorting huge sums of money for them later when a large corporation gets to thinking they should use them...) tries to grab a patent on 'prior discovery' in order to extort licensing revenues.....sure legal shenanigans get going. But Evans trying to claim credit for GM Development work done almost 30 years earlier....how does this relate to Sommender Singh's development work: It doesn't. Other than the fact that Mr. Conspiracy claims this is rampant in the OEM world, and IF THIS WAS SO TRUE AND SIGH'S WORK REALLY DID WHAT HE SAID, SOMEONE WOULD HAVE ALREADY STOLEN IT! (Doesn't want to face the fact that the logic of this argument knocks out any further debate on why it's not employed by OEMs. If it REALLY worked, someone would be using it. To say they aren't using it because of some conspiratorial reason is foolish.) "What I have not seen is what type of testing B&S did. I simply do not have the data. I don't know if they did the same crude cuts in the head / piston, or even if they tested it on OHV engines. I am sure their goals are different than mine." No, they were not crude cuts, Sommender Singh himself did the work and development hand in hand with B&S, the goal was to circumvent emissions requirements that were on the horizon. Instead they realized as was noted above. Likely you won't see anything published, neither through Mr. Singh, or B&S as that kind of stuff is covered with legal non-disclosures. Same as I could only argue for counterflow injector placement in vague terms until Cosworth made the placement public---I was under a 5 year non-disclosure and there were plenty of people saying "link me to it man!" Sorry, can't, it's not in the public domain and I've got non-disclosures. Similarly I'm not privy to the details but have talked at length since finding the data from Singh's work several years ago...and since I knew someone at B&S in R&D....well, make a phone call and talk talk talk. My forecast: Singh's work is (and again for what seems like the millionth time) about 40 years too late. It's technology improvement not in-synch with the modern state-of-the-art. Simply put, it's not going to show up anywhere important in motor vehicles with emissions requirements. Period. Now, I WILL ask next weekend if any of the XO guys at Bonneville are running them, they're really helpful to inquiring minds not competing in the same class...

No, that defies common sense. (And the 240 had 3/16" return line, not 1/4"!) The fuel pressure is gained through a restriction in the return line at the front of the engine, that hole allows the pressure to go up as delivery from the mechanical pump rises faster than (hopefully) the float bowls suck it down through the needles and seats, giving more fuel at higher rpms. Did you: 1) Check the inlet screens on the carburettor to see if they are free and unclogged? 2) Made sure your starter system is working properly---if one of the jets on either carb is lower than the other, it will 'hit a wall' and not rev any higher just like an ignition-controlled rev limiter.

Same as Zmanco, 73 240Z with twin 10" fans clear water pump and dampner, on both a 4 core and 3 core radiators.

Been a month now and checked the Dually pressures today: still where they were, and now that it's over 100, it seems like the A/C is working even BETTER! Interior of the truck will get to 60F. Amazing. I am glad I had the time to charge it this year. The issues with the welding gasses is getting a two stage regulator which will have a gauge that goes high enough on the second stage! Most of the inert gas regs don't go that high, and have more emphasis on flow at lower pressures. I'll admit it was something I didn't think about, but what does that reg go to, and like the SCUBA tank adapter---who actually has one laying around??? Anybody doing refrige work will have a vacuum pump, and Harbor Freight sells them for $99. Cheaper than a good N2 gauge set, and practical down the road if you do need to recharge!