Tony D

it really is just where you put the support ring, same a Frank 280XR found out on his ZX-R. I think he posted about it as well...

My bud in Henderson NV just said he saw one on a trailer there, in primer... They are around. More than you think! Guys get greedy, and eventually realize they're just another Z-Car and unless it's something REALLY special, it's not going to command a premium much above what a similar condition US Spec car would sell for in the same venue. The guy in KC figures he's got GOLD. So since nobody in KC Appreciates what he has, he's going to E-Bay where the money will roll in to him. Seen it all the time. Give it a couple attempts and the price will come down.

FSM wiring diagram will let you trace what you need. A power-on check with a meter will tell you the same thing for sure. You're looking for something that doesn't exist in a Datsun: a given wire color that means the same thing all the time. You will have a wire which is hot for one use...that same color is a switched hot for something else. About the only thing that might be constant is that black usually is a ground wire. But not always, depending on the circuit being probed. Personally, I'd flick on the power with the key, and find the power source that way.

Dragging clutch? Too hot gearshift? That's one you have to live with, it's why they put a plastic knob on it.

What was the chassis natural torsional rate on an S30 again?

You should have seen the 330 parts at the Odaiba Island Swap Meet...wow! My tests are done on 3rd Street merging with the CR60 Westbound every morning going to work...when in town! Third is pretty easy, and with the new tranny it was an "Ooops! 5200 in 4th? Better slow down, eh?"

Cool fuel is nice...but so is more pump suction pressure. I know the Z Tank will take around 3-5psi, I put that much into mine and my son's 510 Wagon to test the line conversion I had done. That may cause issues with the FPR up front, but that would be a stretch. It's almost like you would want a boost pump/surge tank at 3-5psi feeding the mains, like on the Cunningham Racing 300ZXTT (#75 Car) Had two boost pumps filling twin surge tanks which were 3" in diameter, and almost 40" tall behind the driver's compartment (from skid plate to roof!) From those surge tanks, two more high-flow pumps sent fuel up to the rails/injectors/FPR... You're kind of at that kind of flow rate using Petroleum. With the flow rates of the E85, I'd say you are equal to or exceeding it. You may want to ditch the idea of straight pump suction, and put in a boost pump/surge tank design to feed your main pump. The tank pressure works O.K. for me, but that's not more than 450HP.

Darius seems to enjoy the Carousel much more than his mom does...

"i pulled the carbs off and put them standing up and a good amount of fuel pissed out. im guessing they need to be rebuild? " Uh... did you drain the float bowls before 'standing them up'? That fuel micturation sounds like float bowl drainage to me. I'm leaning towards Leon's opinion on this whole issue about this point in time...

"it will have very stiff springs in the rear (prolly 10k's) and 8ks in the front. this car will have to win with its power and short wheelbase. " Unitbody Spring Rate.... interesting concept!

FSM has a nice drawing of where every one of those connectors goes. Red bunch looks like it may have plugged into a stereo or something.

BMW Whiner...

"cavitation damage to the pump impeller that reduced its flow/pressure capability" Remember people poo-poohing my comments about fuel pump flash-cavitation at elevated temperatures? It won't help you when it's cold out, but a functioning EVAP system (even the 240 with it's diverter valve) will hold a few inches water static pressure in the tank (if all the hoses are sealed)---doing a little toying with that spring would allow a bit more NPSH at the pump inlet without the need for the larger lines. And with Alcohol's vapor pressure, you could probably get a nice boost in inlet pressure to prevent it from happening again Tim. Or did you "remove all that emissions garbage"...

Thing is, at the top end, you should have 5-7 psi! It's how the small needle and seat combination keeps the small SU Fuel level steady during extended high power pulls. If you can't pull 6500 in 2nd, then pull to 104mph in 3rd, shift to fourth all the way to redline your fuel pump isn't keeping up! Bucking, surging, outright detonation.... It's a terrible thing!

Big Washer at the end of the T/C setup? If you can PM me your address, I've scrapped dozens of S30's I'm SURE I have one or two of those washers laying around. You can have it if I know where to ship it to! A photo would be good, or a circled call out from a parts diagram to MAKE SURE I sent the right bit.

Wow, in before the shedding!

"My passenger side tension rod is missing it's front washer, nut and bushing, which they think is causing the control arm to pull back when braking, and steer the car to the right." Same as my 73! P.O. assembled it without the T/C rod spacer in the bushings---L/F tire would move back in the wheel well about 2" before braking. Couldn't SEE it happening while driving the car, but there was a "CLUNK" and then the wheel wanted to rip out of my hand! I was about to point out that a 'pull' you feel in the WHEEL distinctly is usually on the side of the car you are feeling the wheel pull. But if the car moves to the right and you really don't feel the steering wheel physically trying to turn in that direction---then likely it's the opposite-side REAR brake causing it. Glad you found your missing washer!

1/8 NPT X 1/4" Hose-Barbed fitting into each manifold runner, to a 1/4" Hose Barb X 1/2 Hose-Barb "T" linked with 1/2" fuel tubing. Off one end was a 1/2" Hose-Barb X 3/16" Hose-Barb Reducer Fitting to go to the BOV, and on the back was the barb to go to the brake booster. If you did the same thing using a -8 piece of fuel rail and some 1/4" barbed fittings, it would be similar. I just made a balance tube to dampen and otherwise smooth out manifold pulsations inherent in short-runner individual throttle body intake manifolds. Lots of EFI guys do this so they get a consistent MAP signal as well.

There is actually a post on this someplace. Randy 77 ZT did a connector plug to mate the underdash relays to the ZX EFI harness for a plug-n-play setup which didn't alter anything. Very slick. The 77 Engine harness will come out as a standalone unit. The interface is one coil wire for the tach/ECU input, and the 6 pin connector (or was it 8?) under the dash above the steering wheel for the combination EFI / Fuel Pump Relay. The ZX has them separate... the 280Z has a 'combi-relay'---easiest is to make the plug fit the ZX engine bay harness and go from there. Plug-n-Play man, Plug-n-Play. I did it once, some years ago. Don't remember wire colors and pin positions, sorry. But I printed a post with the directions and it took maybe 1/2 hour to do all the wiring mods to the ZX harness to make it a drop in no alterations to the 280Z affair. Made it smog-legal as well! Happy Hunting, Good Luck!

Yeah, down the pole about a 2.5 or 3" conduit (haven't measured) which continued into a trench (then buried) to the service meter at the house. I've been gone from the house every time they've pulled the meter for repair or upgrade... I had some direct-bury stuff from my shed to 'Chicken Island' to provide heat lamps for the incubation coop and lighting, etc... Goddamn gophers ATE THROUGH THE WIRES! Now I have conduit out there, but no time to fish the new wires and complete that project either! I vowed after the gopher incident I no longer would go direct-burial if I could help it, heavy wall PVC with a LOT of tobasco rubbed into it while it sits out in the heat. Paranoid? Yeah, but I HATE digging trenches! Speaking of #8 Copper, that is what is run to my sheds for a 50A service! Same contractor... Thanks for the link...I wonder if I can blow my line transformer like with the stereo in the old days...

"2. Snapon wrench's have a somewhat sharp edge on them and they will hurt your hand when pulling hard on them. see #1 above." That is what the leather sole on your work shoe is for! My wife 'forbade' me from buying one of the big water-shedding Costco tool boxes that first came up in 2002. I'm sorry I didn't disregard her then! For the price it was a STEAL DEAL and was everything I needed for the house to consolidate my 'small tools'... Recently, I found one at a Pawn Shop (sound familiar???) but sad to say someone had beaten me to it and it was "Sold"... I still have ONE on the horizon... but he's a reluctant seller. One day, he too will need money and like his Milacron Lathe and Pallet Racks, I will possess that box!

I would show you an engine bay photo of a Norskog conversion, but right now there's a Chevy 350 just laying in there not on the mounts!

That wasn't too clear---by that I meant the vacuum line from the upper portion of the BOV. It adds pressure to help keep it closed. not the big hose, but the small pressure-sensing line. If you lift-throttle manifold vacuum is put to the top chamber of the BOV and it opens it below the spring pressure. I had to hook mine into my manifolded balance tube for a steady vacuum source to mitigate high pulses on the manifold making it go 'POP-POP-POP-POP-POP' at idle, and an interesting WooshWooshWoosh under boost when I lifted! Your pipe size is fine, that's not the issue.

Check posting time, that is how log it took to find THIS: http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/2485194531.html

SEE SEE SEE! ROADTRIP!