Tony D

Why are you mounting it where the alternator is? It will end up going in the 'out' of the thermostat, and come out the center of the old water pump opening. A simple plate where the old water pump was, along with the thermostat housing and thermostat is what will be there... Going "in" will be on the A/C pump side of the block, and radiator would most easily be a crossflow or downflow with inlet and outlet ends reversed. A high point burp tank like from a roadster would help to bleed the system. And again, for best distribution, reading the No5 Cooling thread for the manifolded distribution of water to the head instead of from the head may be advisable. Trust me, you're not the first one to think along these lines...

So then what exactly is the issue with what I posted? Or is yours an attempt at clarification. Most L28's will be out of poop well before 5500rpms. I of course never mention the L20A Dual Carb Spec cam as most people don't have access to them any longer. Would common sense dictate if "A" was in "all" L28's 'to 8/81' that it may not be the "L24" cam referred to? What of "B"and "C" and of course 'others' which may or may not be on an all popularly read sheet? What would your reference be in an 'L28' cam in that instance (those produced after 8/81? "If it came in an L28, you don't want it for performance N/A applications, it restricts the useable RPM range of the engine."---doesn't matter 'which' L28.....'ANY' L28 sux. Clearer now?

I thouoght 321 Stainless was the 'preferred' exhaust material---but that may have been in reference to headers and not the entire exhaust. Going to something cheaper may be prudent.

Nobody ever said the people on the TV knew WTF they were talking about. This is just another example.

Gotta love the NFL restricting any sort of TV access on the web to only USA. I rarely watch their overhyped, BS games anyway, and when I found that my team The Packers somehow landed in a birth for the big game it was a suprise. So not that I'm in the USA where I can watch it, or in any large city like shanghai where I can go to a bar at 6AM to catch the game. I'm in someplace that JUST HAPPENS to not have one of the TWO asian cable channels carrying the game. No problem, it's a FREE TV EVENT RIGHT? I'll just pick up a stream on the INTERNET... WRONG, two days ago all the low bandwidth sites are seized. Ad if the fu*king government has nothing better to do than shut down superbowl streaming sites. So now, I go to the NFL.COM site, which I have been able to watch games from before only to find they RESTRICT ACCESS to ONLY WITHIN THE USA. This has about put the final nail in the coffin for these greedy bastards. I'm sick of the way rule changes have corrupted an already corrupted game, and now the pernicious forces of greed and 'not leaving money on the table' have effectively restricted the content to ONLY where they want it to be. Congratulations you arsewipes---you have taken a book straight out of Microsoft's playbook. Great idea keep the game from people who WANT to see it. The NFL makes me puke. And the people running the league make me wretch even more. Lambeau and Rooney would roll over in their graves to see their traditions and their teams associated with such a fu.ked group of individuals. This latest revelation, abomination... disgusting.

Why do you insist on capitalizing 'cam'? Do you think it is an acronym? "Cam" is short for "Camshaft" nothing else. Unless you are intentionally YELLING everytime you say the word... Suspension mods are covered extensively in the section on the forum devoted to that subject, plenty of FAQ and Stickies there to read. I'll note that on a tight course my bone-stock "Blue Turd" 260Z with a good driver will be suprisingly close to S30 Fast Time of Day considering what usually sets that time has about 100X the money into it as I do in the car. Faster than a lot of other cars with 'far more power' but the same suspension (stock). Things are balanced. And a stock Z is a very well balanced performance oriented vehicle. Standard stepping stones to better handling can be done to make it better, but in almost EVERY case the biggest part of the equation that can be improved is the driver... Improve yourself before you improve the car. Get the car to good stock tune and suspension nick, and you will be amazed how fast you can be in the car...and really how fun it is to drive. THEN move on to suspension 'modifications/improvements' and finally...add a little power. As for me, on this car: not a damn thing (well, maybe, eventually, some day I'll paint it...I guess.) It has poly bushings, stock springs, stock dampers, stock rims and tires (though sticky) and stock engine. It works, starts every day, and goes to an Auto X and makes passes all day long without overheating and with everybody and their brother beating the hell out of it without missing a beat. I can get in and drive it to Florida or some other warm place tomorrow with a fill up of gas and a check of the oil. Why mess with that? I'm faster up and down on/off ramps than most cars as it is now. At most I'll replace the springs because they do sag now so they might be upgraded to a stock height, higher spring rate, and if the dampers ever do wear out I would probably put Tokiko Illuminas in them set on '5' because I like a soft spring, stiff damper combination. Other than that...nuthin' it's rock solid reliable and there are countless witnesses at numerous MSA AutoX events that have been amazed by the performance of a Bone-Stock 260Z! They really are impressive vehicles in stock form...if you can drive them! Now my 73... Oh that is a different story and well beyond the scope of what you intend to do!

Repost? Or just not searching? Alan Thomas gave quite a dissertation on which manifolds were which. I think rayyap posted asking about the same markings within the last month...

Don't get me started on scrap/rework policies... There is some logic behind some of the decisions... but fundamental structural process changes never have been an urgent matter. Poor long-term focus, much too much bias toward the 90 day cycles for bonus payouts... I would tend to agree, bankruptcy would have forced some changes. GM has an exceedingly good engineering department, but the institutional inertia there stifles their ideas and progress. What they DO get out is remarkable given the structure which contains/constrains them! It really is what I would call tragic, the brilliant ideas/concepts they have come up with, but how the institution kills them, almost systematically. "We digress..."

The cooler goes up front, in front of the strut tower bar.... Everything else will fit in back of the strut towers. I have those 'folding canvas chairs' from wal mart, and they fit across the back in front of the MSA Speaker panel. Bag in a roll (or alice pack if you wish) fits between the two chairs at back and the strut bar between the towers. If you don't have a strut bar, what do you bungee everything in back down to? Gone on more than an overnighter... Try 16,000 miles in 3 weeks! (You can see the trailer, along with 'necessities' behind the back seat of the 2+2!) And why did I say 'a trailer' when I had a 2+2? Because I know what you can fit in a coupe... You can fit THIS: And I figured, travelling around with explosives... in the back of the car... for about half this trip might be safer in a trailer! Most of this trip was covered in two weeks driving time, with a week loitering at the furthest point from SoCal. So yeah, I guess a cooler, bag of chips, a sleeping bag and a couple of chairs wouldn't be so bad!

That's not how it works. Read the 'head cooling on #5' sticky. Reverse Flow cooling is doable, but you don't turn the whole block into a 'suction side' as the flow dynamics of suction / vacuum systems are totally different than pressure-fed systems. You want to pressure feed the engine, and keep the COOL side feeding the pump. If there was one single word to explain why it would be 'CAVITATION'---you never want to feed your hottest fluid into a potential vacuum or low-pressure area. The flash-bubble and cavitation (steam pocket) formation at the pump inlet would stop it pumping before operating pressure was reached even at 24psi static! If you look at the Early GM Experiments in Reverse-Flow Cooling done after the SBC was in production (this is in the 50's) they modified the pump (which is easy on a chevy) to feed into the heads instead at the front of the block, then manifolded the two former 'water inlets' to a common header with the thermostat housing as a new 'water outlet'. Having met one of the engineers who participated in this study it was interesting to note that GM knew the advantages of it almost immediately after production started...but it took almost 50 years for them to implement the tooling and casting changes during a significant redesign of their block! Talk about institutional inertia! I digress....

Curiously, the Nissan Plan for the Z originally included 40PHH's as the 'performance' option for the car with 175 instead of 150 hp. That meshes nicely with what Mikuini claimed was the bump putting them onto a stock L24 (22% or something like that, emissions compliant to '67 specifications...) A stock cam will work, and it works better in L26 and L24's. The cam timing and events on an L28 is slightly more conservative, and the gains (relative) are slightly less on that engine. If you put in one of the earlier cams into an L28, it keeps you 'SCCA Legal' and makes the L28 have the same rev characteristics as the earlier cars...meaning you're not 'all in' my 53-5500rpms. Mikuinis are a great all-around carburettor. You should be able to get BETTER fuel economy out of them than SU's if you can resist your footfall. I have gotten 28mpg on an L24 with an automatic and 4:11 gearset running 65mph on the highway with Mikuini 40PHH Triples. Really, they are an OEM carb, and drive like an OEM carb. Toyotas used them extensively on their sporting models in the JDM. I think you will be very pleased once you get them cleaned up and installed. You add a dedicated performance cam, and it really starts pulling harder to the redline, usually from 4000 on up to 7000. But for that you will want lower gearing and other things. Before installing a cam, I'd grab a lightened flywheel and spend the time learning to drive the car and getting the suspension back to at least 'firm stock' tune, if not improving it's handling and roadholding capabilities. Really, the last thing these cars need is more power out the gate. But since I consider Mikuini PHH's an OEM fittment....that doesn't count as an "upgrade" in my book, it comes under the same heading as replacing spark plug wires that are bad: "Restoring Intended Baseline Performance Level"!

Seats on the 2+2 get flatter than the coupe if you're sleeping in the seats... Been there, done that!

I would have to say I loved my "Moby the Van" Chevrolet G30 van....clocked at 84mph+ on radar by UHP coming back from Denver to SoCal while towing (they should have shot me going downhill and not just after the crest! No speed limiter in a 1990 TBI GM Product! Liked that a lot more than the Ford E250, it was limited to 98 made catching up to the club after shooting photos from an overpass a monumental undertaking (towing or not!) My old "Van Hammock" is now hanging inside my 20 foot enclosed trailer! Yes, sleep in the trailer, just like in the van.

Read the sticky on compressor surge and then realize the surge will not occur at the same rpm in different gears! Again, my bet is electrical. Does the car free-rev above 4K rpms out of gear? Or does it hit 'a wall' and start sputtering and backfiring and just lumbers around that general rpm range? Clean your injector and sensor connections and see if it helps change where your compressor surges at...

the 260 had a bendix licensed pump that put out 3-4psi, the 280z used a bosch lic ensed pump that puts out 30+ psi, they are not 'the same'---if your 260 has a bosch pump out back, it's not from the factory. by 'damper thingie' do you mean the rear-mount fuel filter that came in the 260's? what about the internal fuel filter on the bendix licensed pump? Have you downloaded the FSM for your vehicle yet, it gives specific instructions for installing the mechanical fuel pump, you have to compress the arm and fenagle a bit to get the rubbing block onto the cam eccentric, it may 'hang out'...

HUH? WHAT WAS THAT? I CAN'T HEAR YOU, SOMEONE WAS YELLING! Seriously, do people still do this? WTF? I guess they do. How sad... Oh yeah, and: NO THIS IS THE FIRST TIME EVER ANYBODY HAS EVER CONCEIVED OF A TWING TURBO BLOWTHROUGH CARB SETUP FOR THE DATSUN NISSAN L6 ENGINE, THAT'S WHY THERE ARE ABSOLUTELY NO PHOTOS ANYWHERE ON THIS SITE OR CLASSIFIED ADS HAWKING TWIN TURBO MANIFOLDS OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT! THEY WOULD NEVER TAKE THE TAKE-OFF RB26DETT TURBOS FROM A SKYLINE BEING UPGRADED AND SLAP THEM ON AN OLD L28, THE TURBOS ARE TRASHED WHEN THEY ARE REMOVED, YOU KNOW YOU CAN'T REUSE TURBOS FROM ANOTHER APPLICATION, THAT WOULD BE LIKE TAKING A DIESEL TURBO FROM A BIG TRUCK AND PUTTING IT ON OUR LITTLE SIX BANGERS IT COULD NEVER WORK!

Server Bandwith Exceeded...

During the last 'gasoline panic' I skorfed up a 1990 Chevy Dually with a Rat Motor along with a 20 foot enclosed trailer. Package deal, $3500. At the time you could find dually's with gas engines all over for $1500 - 3500. More truck than you need? Probably, but for the price what do you want sitting around the yard all but 110 days a year? (less if there is snow) I will probably get a nice open trailer for transport and pickup from shops, and other sundry towing duties outside of where I have to use the enclosed trailer. But the Truck? I could tow Mt. Rushmore with that thing if I had to! I will second the suggestion that you get a used Powerstroke Turbo, I loved my 99 F350 and the Y2K F250. Truthfully if I could substitute that powertrain into this truck I'd be set for anything. When I can drop 4000# of Railroad Ties in the bed and it doesn't even bulge the rear tires...THAT is a TRUCK! (would have made two trips in my F250...if the 350 was a dually I could have done it though...)

Interesting Hood Movement...

Yes, and more. But let me suggest a nice alternative: Harbor Freight Trailer Cheap Little Trailer BETTER ALTERNATIVE (though more $$$) I used the one from the first link to construct something like they ultimately offered in the second link. Though since mine is diamond-plated and half-decked, I can at any time take my back toolbox (rubbermaid) off and remove the decking to strap slicks to it and use it to drive to the races as my 'spares and maintenance trailer'... I built this trailer after two years of long trips where the cars interior was PACKED with crap and having to empty it out was a PITA. With all the stuff in the trailer, and only a small Playmate Cooler in the car (the 48 QT Coleman was mounted to the trailer tongue!) I could transfer stuff when I gassed up. When I got where I was going I simply unhooked, chained the trailer to a tree or lamp post, and then had the car free to go sightseeing or run into town without worrying where all my stuff was, or having the car burdened to max capacity. Remember the car's internal passenger capacity is only 480#, and with just yourself that doesn't leave a lot! But with that trailer running around behind me i never noticed it was there, the suspension cleared lots of offroad stuff that previously caused scrapes or bottoming, and hell... I can strap 2 or three L28's on the back if I wanted and tow it with the Z! I put a couple of Rubbermaid Tool Boxes on it and they have locks. Nice when you're camping to have something decently sized and lockable if you want to take a long hike, or just run to the nearest supplier to pick up more beer...er, soda... If I was 'light'---meaning my Boy Scout Essentials and a toss-tent I'd do it in the Z... but if you want to bring a cooler, chairs, etc. my advice would be just make a dedicated camping rig. You can leave all the stuff in the rig, come home from work, hook up and GO! (For that matter, hook up the day before head to work and leave straight from there!) This may be overkill for only 5-8 times a year, but I'll admit I ended up going a LOT more than before simply because it wasn't a hassle loading it all in the car. Like a Boy Scout "Box" it was all there all the time, just grab and go to wherever. I had the trailer airborne to the point where I couldn't see the back end out the top of my hatch window after hitting an unexpected pothole out on a gravel road at a speed I shouldn't be going... and I know it traks safe and straight at 110+ during emergency lane changes on the flat section of I10 outside Fabens Texas (man was I glad I got the 12" wheels THAT day!) Something to consider.

60 to 30 would made a condensation point only if the humidity was favorable. What was the ambient temperature outside when you were at 60 in the shed? The heat of a lamp would cause a lower dewpoint in the shed at 60, but if the dewpoint of the air outside was still 32 outside, you wouldn't condense when you lowered the temperature. Your breath would have some additive effect to the humidity in the shed, but chances are good it's not 'airtight' by any means and that moisture would be 'sucked out' into the outside air as well. I once had a guy complain that I risked condensing moisture from the air by heating a block with a heat gun to well upwards of 170F. My comment was that with an ambient temperature near -40 at the time, there wasn't enough moisture IN THE AIR to condense as it cooled. I was right. My bet lies on the finger salts and other things that got to it. As for "Moly" grease...what you want really is a thick NGLI2 or higher lithium or other metallic based soap grease with a high slumping factor. Something that is persistent and doesn't slough off, a high temperature grease like Wheel Bearing will keep oil from wicking out of the soap base and making everything around it oily and a dust attractant... There are some great clear greases out there like this, Lubriplate 630AA is white and not so thick but gives a clear indication that it's covered something! Vaseline would work, but it's almost body-temperature reduction ( ) so it will get everything greasy around it, the stuff is just hard to contain to a specific area. It doesn't have to be moly, but I'd say 'wheel bearing grease' of NGLI2 or thicker would work---a high heat application grease will be fairly 'dry' to apply, it will stick well and STAY PUT at room temperatures. I got some red stuff from an old garage sale in a 35# tin that I have been using for years to smear gaasket surfaces and pack gears in... It doesn't have to be 'good grease' it just has to do what you want it to do!

Taken In Turn from a Logical Perspective: hahaha ya I apaologize again tony its just so irritating to know that if the car was efi it woulda been running along time ago. Why do you say that---what would you do to an EFI car that would have made it run? Why don't you tell us that, and then we can 'convert to the carburetted alternative'? Oh and im pretty sure all the old gas has been burned up, Ive been puttin lots of gas in and it will all get burned up just from idling for like 10 mins. "Pretty Sure" isn't sure---there is a drain plug on the tank, take a sample! If you have been putting gas into it that much and you are just idling....do you see gasoline flowing out the carburettors? Jet stuck in the down position, Float Adjustment, Wrong Fuel Pressure, normally using 'that much gas' would have you puffing black smoke out the tailpipe. If you run the car to operating temperature (don't EVEN TRY anything till it's at operating temperature)then try to do diagnostics---small throttle opening no rpm rise at all? Can it be feathered to gain rpm? AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE. Cold right now they will run like crap unless they are pig rich anyway. I also have not even drove it yet, since it doesnt rev up when I go to engage the clutch it just stalls obviously cuz its not gettin gas. Now, which is it, you suck down gas by the gallons or you aren't 'getting gas'---I posit your conclusion of 'obviously' is dead wrong! Quit making assumptions and DIAGNOSE the issues step by step. What is the timing on the car, does the timing move when you move off-idle? What are the valves adjusted to? If you can get it hot, you can adjust the valves. On another post you mentioned doing sometehing with the ignition leads---IS THE FIRING ORDER CORRECT AND IN PHASE WITH #1 CYLINDER??? Two wires crossed in the right manner will let it idle, but it will run like shite anywhere else! And no, it won't necesarily pop out the intake! I checked the dampers after unscrewing them and when I pull it out theres redish oil on them and theres resistance when I try to push the piston up with my finger, So im guessing theres enough oil in the dampers. Again, you're obsessing on carb minutae, rather than carb performance and giving us precious little to go on as far as real diagnostic meat and potatoes (or fish heads and rice...) So its just basically liked I explained earlier... The butterfly side of the carb which is bolted to the manifold is opening when I give it gas because its connected to that throttle rail. So it has no choice but to open, now for the piston side of the carb...The pistons just stay shut at idle and when I gas it!!! Now for the SECOND TIME are you prepared to LISTEN THIS TIME? Entertain the thought THIS IS THE WAY THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO WORK! Please read this over 100 times so we can dispense with your next jump of illogic, shall we? What you say is 'gas it'---gas it how far? WOT? 1/4 throttle? HOW FAR? the piston will not open until sufficient engine load is present. So far you haven't given us enough specifics to know if this is what it should be doing, or if there is anything wrong. The piston being down will create higher vacuum at the jet and give MORE GAS in an 'accelerator pump action' BEFORE opening to enrichen the main circuit. If you would have taken the time to read the links and research on SU's you would know this and not be stuck in a loop of dispair drawing on faulty conclusions. therefore letting no air in to have air fuel mixture! Plain wrong assumption. Discard this thought. The car will idle and accelerate just fine from idle speed with the bridge almost touching the jet. therefore burning up all the gas quickly. But you said it obviously wasn't getting gas! Now it's flooding? Which is it, please realize that to troubleshoot this kind of stuff you have to be specific and keep YOUR conclusions or impressions out of it and just relate the FACTS of the operation. What is your throttle opening. What is the car doing when accelerated. Are you WOT and the car is just bwaaa bwaaaa bwaaaaaaaaaaaaa and sitting at idle without the pistons ever rising? What happens if you DON'T give it WOT and 'feather it'? Sounds like a stuck advance mechanisim at this point--but you haven't given anything much more than your original post. Perhaps the reason you're frustrated is you are continually looking at the SAME THINGS and therefore continue to draw the SAME CONCLUSION. The advice given earlier was to look elsewhere and be more specific. This has not happend as of yet. soooo tell me what you would do in this situation?? I would love to learn about these carbs but really dont have alot of time right now to sit around and read about it, Ive always been a hands on learner!! tell me what do to do or show me what to do and there ya go! If you are unwilling to take the step to learn about the carbs and expect a spoon-fed diagnosis, IMO you need to go to another site more befitting a beginner. You don't want to sit down and read, but you got all the time in the world to run in circles chasing your tail without an inkling or clue how the carbs work? Please explain that to me so it makes sense, because it just doesn't compute.Seems to me 45 minutes reading a book and learning how the damn things work would pay off FAR more than three hours of beating your head against a wall and swearing and getting frustrated because you're not making any headway! Hint: Your way isn't working, my suggestion is you try something else. The course is plotted, wether you take it or not is up to you. Good Luck.

My bet is electrical, but the post is so vague it defies any real attempt at assistance.

"Flutter"? TPS works at idle, and that's about it other than engaging the WOT contact at around 30 degrees of the shaft rotation. Does this 'flutter' feel like the car shuts off and then comes back on very quickly? At cruise the engine will not be in boost---is this the case? Sounds more like a dead spot in the AFM that kills the car at a specific cruise rpm---changing rpms in the same gear will stop it as you found. Does it do it in every gear, or only cruise?

woah, kiwi303, great minds think alike!