Tony D

Fish eye eliminator in bulk batching lets it go on right over that grime and stick juuuuust fine! We don't need no stinkin' cleanin' time!

What wiki says is correct. "How to Modify" is American Based. The XL500 Piston/L14 rod is EXTENSIVELY documented in Japan and Japanese Magazines. In 1989 you could get a forged Honda slug from the Honda Dealer for aroudn 2500 yen, at most $25, and a few years earlier due to the exchange rate, half that! With Rings. The Weisco you have pictured will run you closer to $100 as shown with rings. The XL pistons would either be 1.5mm down bore, or 1.5mm positive deck height (great with a 2mm head gasket...) depending on rod used.

You don't need a fuel injected head to use fuel injection. unless it's a very early head (pre 74 US market) it will have the injector notches for the stock injection manifold. But this system used low pressure TBI injectors so woo hoo it doens't need a lot of the EFI crap to make it work!

Poor fuel control will kill that cat... Do yourself a favor and put an AFR meter on it, and insure you are at 14.7 under a majority of conditions, you will kill it. A catalyst is a pass-through device, it is NOT a 'scrubber'---if your AFR is correct, you will have no HC to make your eyes water. The ONLY time a catalyst is operational is during transitions (acceleration, WOT, decel if you don't have fuel-cut like EFI does.) If you idle or go down the road and get fumes and smell exhaust YOU ARE TOO RICH. And you will burn up or overheat that catalyst in short order if you don't fix that first. You don't slap it on and make it all better. Fix the problem, don't bandaid it! If you smell fumes, you are not 'adjusted correctly'!

Photo? What does 'identical to P90A' mean? Identical to P90A Hydraulic, or P90A Mechanical? Something substantially different would have to exist to require a different casting number. If you didn't see any differences, maybe you werent looking close enough at the casting number? The casting variations between the extant N42 heads is huge (No EFI notches and carbed bolt pattern mounting holes, open and closed combustion chambers but all N42 casting number). If it has a a different casting (example P79, P90) there are substantial differences: P79 has liners and round exhaust ports, P90 no liners and rectangular ports. Yet the P90 US version will have a CHT, whereas some markets have a P90 without one. All have the same combustion chambers. Methinks maybe P79. But I remain open to the existence of a P99 if someone can show me one.

"The downside is RHD specific parts avialability, paying highway tolls or getting parking slips at a parking garage, pulling out from a parallel spot on a busy road, making lefthand turns across a busy road, drive-thru fast food windows, bank drive-thru ATM's, etc." I go with Mr. JDM on this one... dominant hand on the wheel. Backing through a drive through was always a lark. Having the passenger hand the drivethrough attendant a steering wheel and say "hold this while I get my cash" and pay was always funny. I guess having a Japanese RHD is more fun than the misery associated with most British Products... I never found any of these to be any sort of large stressor or inconvienience. And of course, in SoCal there are dual-lane drivethru's at In-n-Out Burger, so getting fed in an RHD is not an issue at all. You pay from the side of the car you are on, not an issue. I would say the positives outweigh the negatives for a Japanese Car. British cars bring their own type of misery of their own, so I wouldn't apply that misery to a Japanese Car.

I find that a thick application of paint stops most annoying oil leaks. This works especially well when freshening up a car for sale.

E Bay is your friend. You have just run into a goldmine, those OEM Hubcaps are golden and Restorers pay $$ for them.

No Americans spend CREDIT in a vain attempt to live some 'dream' they were told was attainable. It's a warped sickness. A disease. They also SAVE less than most other countries. I have often taken a look at my taxes in the USA and realized just by going expat, the money I save in taxes alone would provide me MORE Than adequate living standard in most AP Countries like PI, Malaysia, Indonesia, etc. Pick outside a metro area, and it's Apocalypse Now with my own perimiter wire, guards, and poetry reciting fatman in a hammock...

A Project almost always brings more in parts than as a whole. An Incomplete Project absolutely will bring more return sold as parts than whole.

Is a P79 so rare an animal (or has it been port worked and you want to salvage it) that getting a used one and starting fresh is prohibitive. For the cost of the decking, likely you can buy a used one without the issues. For a P79, that is the direction I would likey pursue if I was in your place. You can always come back to this head years down the road if you need to do so. If the parts are avaialble, get them now while they're cheap. They won't be any cheaper 10 years from now!

As long as the 'Tony Said' references stop, we can move on, positively. Note, the 0.003" was referenced as a 2500rpm point on an EFI ITB setup... just for pedantry's sake...

One of the things revealed in dyno testing within the past month was the real effect of looping the coolant hose when the heater core is bypassed. With a 160F thermostat, the CHT was over 220F with a thermostat out water temp of 170 at 3000rpms and 25 hp of load. It got worse as the rpms went up. And this was a 20 degree DROP from an unmodified head and block (cooling water tapped over #5 for individual return like on the cooling thread), and mods to the block for higher flow. That means with the same head/block combo unmodified for supplementary flow, and running a 160F thermostat, that area of the head running at 65mph on a typical Z would be nearer 240F. And it's linear. Run a 170, it's 250. Run a 180, it's 260. Run a 190, it's 270. Better run 50/50 antifreeze/boil if you insist on running a 190 or 180 thermostat. You will drop 50 degrees off that running no looped hose, but that's still damn hot at the back of the block!

BTW, for reference from the first thread referenced as an example for "0.030": "Then, once they are seated (which should starve the engine or have it operating WELL below target idle speed... some people set them arbitrarily at 0.003" open with a feeler gauge on a bench-setup before installing them---that was a Carburettor specification and can not be applied to EFI. Frank 280ZX tried that with his ITBs and got an engine that was idling at 2500rpms! " Nice try, but read the thread and comprehend it's many facets before picking and choosing what you want to use from it!

It is more prevalent on the guys running 4 bangers. The system was designed originally for V8 Chevys, and the drivers are more than robust enough for dual table operation of four injectors. Now, Throttle Body systems with 4 injectors on a 6 cylinder.....

The 030" is referring to idle versus 'running'... NOT setting idle! Not even close to what was being discussed here. I have ALWAYS referenced 0.003" intital setting of ITB's for idle flow synchronisation. Why am I so adamant about that number? Because that was what I started doing after Gene Berg showed me the way to set up carbs when you don't have a synchmeter. Doing it his way got me making little or no adjustments following his lead and example. Since then, this is the way I have always set things up. The 0.030" was discussing when the synchronization AT IDLE no longer matters. It referred in NO WAY to setting the idle! Christ, 0.030" will give me probably 5-6000 rpms free rev, and likely 45mph loaded in gear cruising! Two computers? Please stick to related items. This is the issue with people talking theory. Just because it's applicable in theory for one application....doesn't mean it's applicable or even warranted in another. Spot Boiling is totally unrelated to anything discussed here. Want me to make it clearer: Next person that posts "Tony Said" without SCRUPULOUS LINKS AND DOCUMENTATION OF RELEVANT SUBJECT MATTER will see me report the thread to a moderator for removal of the item. Don't say 'Tony Said' ESPECIALLY when I didn't say it. You're 'recollection' is correct only in the fact that the words were out there in some semblance of order. Their applicability to this discussion is tenuous, if not totally irrelevant. ESPECIALLY in the context in which they were subsequently referenced. Don't quote me when you aren't quoting me.

Er.....no.

I would not quote wikipedia here... It is not considered 'authoriative' by any shape or measure!

BTW, Megasquirt will run staged injection. One bank of injectors on IJN1 and another bank on INJ2 with the Dual-Map code available. Turn one set off at X rpm as the others come on slightly before that. Seamless transition. Lets you use the stock injectors for stock idle and transition into low boost (or up to 3500rpms) and then larger injectors for on upwards in the RPM range and/or higher boost ranges. "Dual Table Fuel"? It's been a while...

Ray is on to the train of thought I got towards with the GMEFI. Traditional single TB's use a sealant around the TB circumfrence. GM TBI's do not, neither do carbs or Hillborns. What Ray stated was correct: the seal isn't the greatest and even with them 'closed' they will leak a considerable amount of air to the engine, and this is more than enough to let the engine idle. And more than enough to let in the fuel. Just like GM TBI. That the IAC exists elsewhere (and that people are referencing it incorrectly) confuses the fact. IAC motor is NOT for ALL the air for idle. It is for a RANGE of Idle Speed TRIM, like when the the alternator or A/C comes on and puts a load on the engine at idle. Or for fast idle compensation. Having under 0.003" on the throttle plates will have the engine around 2000rpms at idle, and if you have fine enough adjusting screws you will be able to close it further for a lower 'street' idle---this will not be an issue. The throttle plates necessarily will be propped open NOT for purposes of adjusting idle speed, they will be opened to SYNCHRONISE them. As mentioned, once you got the majority of them flowing similarlay and the idle speed as low as possible (then up it with your IAC TRIM if so equipped, or master bypass screw into the balance tube) then you tweak the throttles remaining to flow similarly. You are not adjusting the idle speed with the opening, you are synchronising airflow to the engine at idle---VERY DIFFERENT! If they are synched properly at idle, and all linkages are identical and unbinding, all other synch checks to WOT should be identical on all barrels and you're done. Remember, synch is done and then the whole thing is adjusted down to the absolute lowest possible idiling speed as opposed to the curb idle speed like on a carburettor. Sometimes you will synch directly to the lowest speed possible if you have a meter with enough resolution. This is because final idle speed is set AFTER synchronisation is set. And once they're set, the ONLY thing that should require adjustment is the bypass screw to compensate for wear on the engine, or crud buildup in the passages. Cleaning the throttle plates regularly to keep crud from building up and obscuring the synch is important as well, especially if you are not running a filter for intimidation purposes...

I got a simple request: STOP WITH THE "TONY SAID" because I don't EVEN want to go back and correct the crap that has been misquoted here in the past 6 posts and attributed to me. "0.030"? TRY: 0.003" I'm to busy now, just take anything attributed to me and delete it so I don't have to come back on a rant and try to fix the bad misquotations / inferences / etc... If you quote me, LINK THE POST! Otherwise, I suggest you do not use me or your recollection of my posts as a talking point.

"I've ssen many people pushing cars in front and behind them to make more room to fit in between... " LOL 'never leave your car in gear, and remember to have the styrofoam blocks on ropes to hang front and back from the boot and bonnet so the bumpers don't get marred WHEN someone pushes your car for clearance to park' I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. Parking in downtown Bangkok is similar... But the Dutch, they park sane.

Just have the appropriate restrictor so the pump can build pressure and feed the carbs, or better yet a proper backpressure regulator manifold referenced so it slightly raises fuel pressure when vacuum drops to zero at WOT.

Derek, you are injecting at the head, the question had moved to injecting at the air horn above the throttle plate and how it would idle.

No, I never said that, I said experience with 'closed' throttle plates made me rethink how closed they really were... There was a good article from someone at Ford of Europe regarding injector placement on one of their engines, and it was outside the air horn, spraying 5 degrees obliquely to the wall or some such thing. Gist of the article was outside is better, and each engine and manifold will have an optimal angle best found through trial-and-error.