Tony D

Or the bottom of the manifold has so much fuel pooled in it that it's running on fumes and residue. Seen JeffP's car do that for 5 minutes with no fuel pressure whatsoever. An aside: What gauge are you using. Cheap gauges are never reliable as a measure of fuel pressure. They are more for show than anything reliable. Where is the gauge and where did it come from?

Most high horsepower injection systems inject at the air horn. Making a bridge to hold the injectors is simple with some aluminum a drill press and some screws. If you have a fuel rail section, you are set up to make an F1 Style injection setup out of just about anything with a throttle bore on it. People decry "TBI" but go take a look at every F1 Engine out there, and what most Hondas/Mazdas/Toyota/Etc are now doing with their ITB's! Injectors in the middle of the air horn. Great atmoization, and plenty of time for homogenization of the mixture down the intake tract. The earlier comment was in response to Hillborn supposedly having conversion fittings for their existing injection setups to convert to EFI. No welding needed. The adapters screw in to the original holes for the mechanical injection nozzles, and allow the EFI injectors to be positioned there. For the bent manifold, this may be problematic due to proximity to the header. Heat shielding may be in order. They have since stopped offering this stuff, though BDS does offer a conversion 'package' for older manifolds. The Stock EFI stuff on the rally cars injected through bungs that put the injector midway on the 'carb body' and injected just after the throttle plate near the ITB/Comp Manifold Juncture. Still quite a ways upstream of the stock EFI manifold and it's emissions-dictated back-of-the-valve requirements.

No, a condenser is a noise suppression device. If you don't have an injector pulse, do you have a spark pulse? If the coil is not being switched, the injectors will not fire. The ECU requires 3 pulses on the coil negative to pulse the injectors once. With power "on" simply tapping the negative of the coil to ground and producing a spark will trigger the injectors. Every third tap the injectors should click (if you are getting a spark, use a decent ground!) People forget that if the distributor goes TU, the injection system won't work. It shouldn't. No spark means no fuel. That is a safety device for a crash stall. Earlier cars used an AFM interlock to stop the fuel pump, later cars used an oil pressure switch. That way in an accident when it stalls, the lack of a spark pulse kills the injectors from flooding the engine, and lack of airflow or oil pressure stops the fuel pump in case there's a broke fuel line causing a gas spill and immolation of the occupants and a ghastly and malodorous Car-B-Que. Mmmmm, "Long Pig Roasting" quipped our guide as we trekked the Kokoda Trail. We looked forward to supping on this mythical creature we had heard so much about. Wew turned the corner and were confronted by tribesmen all holding spears and...

Did you use the proper fuel feed hose that doesn't put a humongo side-load on the jets cocking them and making them stick. EVERY one I have seen where they used conventional 1/4 or 3/16" fuel hose has a binding problem. There should be no issue requiring springs to return the jets all the way up. If they don't go there, there is something rubbing, sticking, or gummed up. But as I said, using the wrong fuel hose will do it almost every time unless you trimmed the hose and fit it VERY carefully. Same goes for the clamps as well, I have successfully used high temp wire ties in place to the stock wire bails on the proper hoses, but using wormgear screw clamps seems to do something that makes them twist and not want to seat correctly. I'd pull em back off, and go over them CAREFULLY (the bore cleaning brush is an excellent idea!) As long as the linkages are all straight, not binding, and everything is free and clear they should pretty much drop in themselves when inverted as well. Good Luck.

With the breakup on the top end, much less than it should have. I would guess around 400+ as that's about where we started seeing the wheel move in the wheel well (not climbing up the rollers which most people seemed obsessed about---look at the clearance between the wheel and the LEADING EDGE of the fenderwell!) JeffP moved his rear subframe back 0.375" and that is likely the only thing that kept us from cutting a tire doing the pulls. Likely it's what occurred on Oz's Bonneville spin (posted elsewhere.) There was another posuer posting about a '500HP L20A at 15psi' who simply refused to address what they did to keep the wheel from deflecting. Like they didn't have an issue. If you don't have an issue with a ZX wheel moving forward in the wheel well under power, you ARE NOT making 400+HP to the rear wheels. Pleas don't claim to 'use the right sized tires with plenty of clearance' or claim 'there are no issues with rubbing we have the correct wheel offsets'... Those are all sidesteps to the basic question: how do you address the wheel movement. Claiming it isn't an issue with stock sized tires smacks of never making any real power. If you make power in a ZX, this should bother you. It bothered Jeff so much he relocated the subframe back on solid bushings 0.375"! This one looks like it's moving more, and getting dangerously close to cutting a tire. I'm guessing on stock subframe bushings. I'd suggest you get to the machinist with the drawing from JeffP's website and fix your suspension before something blows up and sends high speed rubber all over the dyno room! <Edit: Oh, I see there was a dyno sheet posted, so the guessing game was over by the time I saw this...As for Dyno Jet Numbers, I'm with those who say 'if you want Dynojet Numbers, go to a Dynojet' or 'give me a couple of minutes and I'll change parameters for any power you want to see'---you have what you have on your dyno sheet, nothing more than that. I don't think anybody with integrity uses a Dynojet for anything but bragging rights anyway. Mustang is traceable to NIST, so are many others, without the calbiration sheet for the run, any claim is nothing more than numbers on a sheet of paper. Some of us here aren't impressed by idle bragging. So you made power---you want a cookie? Fix the trailing arm before someone gets killed. I made 325HP in a VW Microbus when I was 19...I would like to think I gained enough wisdom to know doing so was probably mighitly stupid as the chassis wasn't ready for it. This appears to be the case on this car as well. If you run it on the street at this power level, please make sure it's only yourself you kill, and not someone in an oncoming lane or innocent vagrant walking down the shoulder! >

Egger & Vickers out of Wisconsin was the other producer. The Kinsler piece on sale is actually a Hillborn Casting. Egger & Vickers made both straight and bent. I've only seen bent Hillborns. I was wondering when someone else would see that, it's been posted at the Kinsler garage sale site forever!

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I posted a reply similar to TimZ's when this was posted originally...apparently it was expunged. (?)

N42. P90=A lot of hype for not much real world benefit. Non-US N42's can have radically different combustion chamber shapes, up to including the N47 style closed-chamber depending on what market they were used in originally. You want a 'best' here's one: O5L from late model L20A Turbo. Then hog the ports, change the valves, and CNC the combustion chamber to match. No welding on ANYTHING required. From a 'base starting point' the only real thing you have to do is buy and have installed the larger valve seats from and N42 and use the standard larger valves, which apparently you have already. Seats and installation and then start cutting.

Both. Thing is the diffusing action is not as important on a plenum blowthrough style, but is on a plenum with ITB's. The ITB's as MONZSTER showed withthe CFD will get uneven flow from the introduction of air to the plenum, so diffusing and straightening it is beneficual. A Cartech Box is just a box, worse than the flow characteristics of the stock N/A EFI plenum when it comes to distributing air to the cylinders. And the stock EFI plenum has been shown to produce 500+ HP with little modification at all. If you ahve ITB's then the diffused plenum will giveyou more even air distribution. That means one cylinder won't run lean or rich compared to it's sisters. At 100HP a hole, that makes a difference. Especially on 5 & 6! Look at Yetterbens comments as he lived and learned. Jetting Jetting Jetting. The jets the guys ran in the Cartech boxes were humongous compared to what I would run in mine. Or what I had to run after going smaller and undiffused.

Bean count this: My Frontier gets 16mpg at 80mph with nothing in it. The EXACT SAME Navara with the 2.7 or 3.0DI Diesel does it for 35+mpg. Towing? The Diesels kill hands down. Our distributor in Manila has a fleet of D21 Navaras (which was getting to me, since they are 2007 models, which are identical to my 2000 none of the fancy funky upgrades!) and love them. Nice clear lens H4 Lights (in Italy, our guys have D21's with the LOAD ADJUSTABLE HID Headlights!), plenty of torque for towing portable compressors to the jobsite, and great fuel economy. Don't get me started on what vehicles are available outside the USA. Total political B.S. The FORD RANGER (the mini) is available with a Diesel worldwide, EXCEPT in the USA. (maybe not in Canada either, don't know...) It boggles my mind but I have a good idea it has something to do with B.S trade tariffs and more B.S. emissions laws. The world got Crew Cab 720's and Hardbodies, it took until Y2K to get them in a small pickup here in the USA. DUUUUH! Now they are everywhere. Imagine that, people want a back seat to carry the grown or medium sized adult occasionally, and don't want to make them sit sideways on a jump seat for 5 hours drive across the desert. What a concept, convienience and multiple purposes for a truck. 6 foot bed? Not like I carry lumber every day. But it's plenty big for four L28's... If I could containerize one and VINSWAP I'd be on it in a minute. Then again, I already have one, but the engine swap is a total PITA. I'm tempted to go on my 2003 Air Cooled Beetle for $6500 rant again, but Ill save it this time...

I guess self-promotion is one way to do it. But then does it really matter that you are 'published'? Isn't that like congratulating yourself for scoring with your left hand?

Runnners running a marathon. I would think they would skip it...

Ecactly what 'clicks' about Mechanical FI that in concept is any different than EFI? Alpha-N EFI runs on throttle position and engine speed--same as MFI, save the components are a buttload cheaper and you only buy injectors once... The people who ding the EFI for it's drivability issues when set up that way would ding the MFI for the same. Setting up EFI for Alpha-N is FAR easier than any multi-mapped setup.

Take the back way out of town through Suisun on 12 to Lodi. You will never say Vacaville is small after that. It's the 'town' most people mention in the region when they say the are 'going to town' on a shopping trip. It's easier to stop there than fight traffic into Sacto. It isn't Rio Linda.

There's a nice Class Three club that meets near Kelso that has some Browing 50's. Last meet I went to (the late 90's) they were doing barrels of gasoline and tracers...

They are out there, especially in So Cal where K. Watanabe and other JDM suppliers flooded the market with $200 used engines in the mid 90's. Here you never know what it's going to get. Dismissively passing a Maxima station wagon in the junkyard some years ago (due to the probability stats saying L24E) my eye caught 'Y70' on the head. Car had a JDM Transplant L20E! Wouldn't have ever expected THAT here in the USA either! There is strange stuff out there. Nissan didn't export to just the North American Market as some would try and make you believe (Channelling Alan T now... )

Well, you've said that twice now. We got it the first time. How is that relevant to the thread?

Lucas slide valve injection or Hillborn is a vailable and can be made to be relatively tractable for the street (Lucas moreso than Hillborn) but if you think this will be 'easier' than carbs, under the same assumption that carbs are 'easier' than EFI, you are sorely mistaken. In both cases. I'll remind you that 240Z's had EFI in competition as early as the RAC Rallyes in Europe 1971 or 72. 45mm ITB's with 'Nissan' on the base and the Nissan Competition Manifold same as on the 44's. Run through a JECS CPU that looked surprisingly like a 68 Volkswagen Type 3 Box...

Notice anything odd about this R32 at a local used-car lot? (Well, local to where I was the past two weeks...)

"Now if you want to install a factory EFI intake on an L6, it must be a '75 or newer head, Z or 810/Maxima. It wont bolt on to the '70-'74 heads, unless you drill and tap it and have the injector slots machined." 75 or newer US MARKET head! I have an unmolested N42 from a 77 Nissan Cedric that does NOT have the EFI bolt pattern, or notches! And I pulled the engine myself (30C 95% R/H bought for 2 50# bags of Rice and a Half Gallon of Whiskey) from the Cedric where I was able to review the service records of the vehicle. It was all original, unmolested, 42,000 Km Automatic! Another thing to watch for when using carbs on an EFI head is that some of those large EFI bolt holes seem to have been tapped a bit too exuberantly, and bored a tad deep---resulting in a terribly pesky oil leak that will have you scratching your head as to how the hell you can seal your valve cover to stop it...but you won't! It's coming from the *(&%*&%$ intake manifold bolt hole! RTV works wonders in this instance.

I think the mix betwen Brad-Man and Braap is what I would suggest: Get BOTTOMING TAPS in the sizes needed, of GOOD QUALITY from a machine tool supplier like MSC or Rutland Tool, etc. For the cost of half a dozen taps that will be used more than you suspect (once you HAVE a bottoming tap, suddenly all those holes seem to get chased when doing maintenance work...) Having the bare minimum to do the job will give you a small tool box full of stuff that works on your car, without paying for anything you rarely, if ever will use. Good machining tools pay dividends that you won't measure in $. And really, they aren't that expensive. I miss being in Japan (even though I'm there now...) where I could go into just about ANY hardware store and pick up a set of three taps. One bottoming one was in there, and machinists will know what the other two were for... An M6X1.0 set was under $5 at the time. Extremely good quality Japanese HSS or Cobalt Taps. I just took it for granted they were sold like that everywhere... I was wrong!

John's right. When you remove aux venturis, you get a 44 mm hole for all your air to pass through. That would be equivalent to a common venturi size in a 50mm setup. It's the diameter of the hole the air has to pass through. Carburettors necessarily work on RESTRICTION to airflow to put fuel into the airstream, and therfore never will flow as well as possible unless you m ake a VERY big carb (hence 50's and 55's.) There are 40PHH's that have 44 mm bores to the throttle plates and when you remove the outer neck-down the characteristic of the carb changes necessitating new jets. Toyotas used them on early TG motors. Sleeved down 44's to 40. The part from the aux venturi to the throttle plate was 40mm, everything else was 44mm. Generally there are larger airbox side bores simply to allow for aux components like venturis to be matched properly on their exit side to the throttle plate diameter. Due to this alone, removing them effectively gives you a 47mm bore with a 44mm venturi for main jet draw-in. Normally 36mm or 38mm is the largest 44mm choke you will see. Compare this to even a 40mm ITB with a straight 40mm bore and you will see it will flow better than any 44 or 45 with a standard venturi in it. A 45mm ITB will flow more through it's 45mm hole than any 44mm carb will as there is no restriction to flow at all. You might flow that will on 44's with the venturis taken out, but the drivability will be nowhere near as good. And to put it straight, the venturis are not to speed airflow through at lower engine speeds. They are there to create a physical low pressure area to SIPHON FUEL FROM THE BOWL. The fuel must be lifted from the jet well UP to the bore where it is introduced. Differing the size of the venturi will change the ammount of depression you get and the resultant booster action. Generally a carb will not work without a booster venturi (10 or 12mm in the main bore, in front of the 36-38mm choke in the body. Without the main venturi, there would be no physical low pressure area to make the idle and progression circuit work. And this is why carbs will never flow as well as comparably sized ITB's. They depend on pressure differential to introduce fuel to the airstream. EFI does not need this. CFM determination for Carbs is at 9" HG. For EFI it is FAR lower since that kind of pumping loss is not required to get atomization and fuel introduction to the airstream.

Shaving Cream (Prefer Gillette Foamy) is your friend...

I've seen 44's run with no chokes. Not a street application for sure. I said 'looks like carburetion' because of the size of the ports. Running 50mm carbs makes for BIG runners to get the taper you need. You get the same power from 45mm ITB's as you do from 50 Carbs, but with much smaller ports, and higher port velocities.