Tony D

BTW, "NISMO" does not necessarily mean 'AFTERMARKET'---those Nissan Part Numbers are for S30 Chassis outside the USA. Much of their offerings back then (and even today) are simply offerings of STOCK parts offered on STOCK vehicles outside the North American Market. That bar came stock on a 1977 S31 Fairlady Z in Japan. I know, that's where I got mine!

Uh, yeah, dude you're putting it on BACKWARDS! It goes (as the exact same bar -4622) fits on MY 1973 240Z: in the stock swaybar mounts under the driver's and passengers seats! You are mounting it as an AFTERMARKET bar goes on an early 70's US Specification 240Z without the factory mounts. This bar mounts exactly the same way as a 260-280Z Bar fits. The bar crosses under the differential snout and driveshaft flange area--you should still be able to get your driveshaft in and out by popping it hard enough and the bar springing to the rear (or use a large prybar to let the driveshaft slip through. It does not cross behind the differential, it crosses IN FRONT of it! Your 73 should have the mounts for the bar already there (part number 28 in Geezer's second photo), all you need to do is get the proper diameter 22 (they are available in Urethane from MSA for the 25mm bar, at least they were) and a 21. The #21 you can get off any 260 or 280Z. My chassis number was 156466, so if your 73 is around that production date, the mount for it should be there! I had a good laugh, though. Thanks!

That is not Halal! Perhaps one day though, through the miracle of science:

Apparently everybody here does NOT realize the stock Nissan L-Engine Rods are ALREADY FORGED! (And coincidentally, I can personally attest they are good to an RPM number quite a bit higher than anybody in this post has discussed yet... Let's just say "9,999rpms PLUS")

Ugh, where did that uninformed comment burble out from? Yeah, a tractor like the Honda S2000 Engine (take a look at it's specifications before making such ill-informed commentary!) STROKE has an impact on TORQUE and that's about it. If you think it somehow limits an engine's ability to rev you are sadly misinformed!

I was going to say somewhere in the 85-86 area if you are bent on using stock rod journal diameter... If you go with smaller diameter journals, then offsetting the pins even more on the 85mm crank can be done. It's really a matter of rod clearance. It's not like you have to cut your cam face lobes and clearance the base diameter of the camshaft to clear the counterweights... I think 87 or 88 may be possible on that same crankshaft from Kameari if you offset the pins 2mm and use a rod diameter correspondingly smaller. Welding on cheeks to existing rods to keep oil throwoff is not a biggie, they do it in Japan all the time. Actually, for $5K that's not too bad a deal!

You mean a bridgeported 13B(T) is simply not compatible with that car? You HAVE to put that old 12A in there?

If they know they won't sell parts off of it, chances are good the whole car will immediately be pulled and set aside at an offer of $500 to $700. Sometimes once it hits the yard they are resistant to sell the complete vehicle, but it usually only entails re-issue of a salvage title and they have to sit on it for a while. Of course the car will have a salvage title then, but who cares? You already have proof of where it was and what it looked like! In CA they make a big stink once it's in the yard due to DMV recordkeeping and reporting / tracking requirements. But I've gotten them pulled with enough cajoling of the manager on site, or with insistent calls to the yard OWNER! I lay it out for them: You get $X for scrap. I'll pay $X+200 and processing/transfer/title fees set it up, I'll give you a cash deposit now, how much do you want to hold it? Cash talks to these people. Scrapyard owners aren't millionaires for NOT moving metal, they are millionaires BECAUSE they move metal!

yetterben just blew his whole S30 sales wad on quads and now will be totally kicking himself in the butt when he sees this! Matter of fact, to rub salt in the wound for his impetuousness, I'm going to e-mail it to him now! I would say that yep, that's a fine example of an old RX2 Capella... I wouldn't mind adding that to the hoarding in the back yard. I could occupy the space next to the Opel GT

Having those front wheels pulling instead of underwater on slippery algae and mossy plant growth makes for a nice uphill climb! Sandbags over the axle may help somewhat. Whatever you do, remember to undo the ratchet straps that hold the pontoon boat on the trailer BEFORE you back into the water!

"no that is NOT the criteria of the swap.... that makes no sense. My point was that nistune is not available for these the 280z ecu- one would have to- as previously stated swap to a z31 ecu. OR one could just swap to a gm ecu. I will NOT be retaining my stock ecu when the car is modified for any reason. " Then why did you mention it in the first place? I said Nisstune, you said 'Nistune don't work on my stock ECU'---ergo, You can't use Nisstune, inferring a dependence on the 78 ECU. I don't see why you mentioned it other than to make a non-sequitur in this instance...the whole flow of the conversation has already at that point obviated a different ECU, ALL of which (Nissan Based) will work with Nisstune. That you want to parse the meaning of the installation is beside the point (daughterboard allowing on-the fly burns and changes as opposed to physical chip burning outside of the case after hexidecimal hacking....) (I guess) As for that spooner attitude on the R200, since nobody has posted the obvious and he mentions 'wheels hooking'...:

During this Holy Season of Ramadan, all this talk of bacon is offensive...

Can you afford the claim raising your rates for the next three years? I may report it, but not file a claim. If I were her, I'd pay to have the bumper painted and paintball the damn intersection cameras that influenced your decision to stop short. That way nobody's insurance rates go up. For an accident repair less than $1000 it's cheaper to pay it up front than to report it and then pay an increased premium for the subsequent 36 months. Seen that happen before! In California they are now starting to remove these cameras as they are realizing they influence traffic FLOW. Plus, the revenue stream they supposedly were to generate doesn't materialize in many cases. The incidents of accidents ADJACENT to intersections is going up where these cameras are in place, while intersection accident impact (the stated reason for installation) seems to be generally unaffected!

I think he was stating the total weight was 2K with trailer. I could see that with an a-frame boat trailer. The 4WD on the CRV should pull any floating rear end out of the ramp area... I have seen fullsize 2wd pickups get floaty and not be able to get out of the ramp area whereas a 4X4 720 (some old datsun with a Z24 engine) launched a 19 ft bayliner with aplomb. The real insult was when the guy with the old datsun asked if the guy with the C30 needed a pull up the ramp!

Wow, so the criteria for the turbo swap is you wish to retain your 78 ECU now? Wish that was stated earlier. Like it was said before, you need to read some more. Especially about your R200 which you don't think can handle the torque of the V8... As was stated, this is all well-covered previously.

If you indeed were at 10.5:1 and uncatalyzed, there should have been a distinct black soot coming out the exhaust during that timeframe. The inside of the tailpipe would be black at that time as well. If you didn't see any black smoke then that lends credence to the error on the dynos AFR calibration. Did you see him do a free-air calibration before he started the run, or at any time during the runs to recheck the sensor? I guess it's a moot point now, but generally you hit 10.5 and you will definately see some smoke. That is the limit of most WBO2's, the dyno we were on had a Horiba which we were comparing against, and it was dead on within 0.1 on the AFRs. When we showed 10.5 flatlined, they were sometimes going to 9.3! Having that extra span helps when you are doing initial pulls and need to rough-in the curve. Good Luck on the tuning. I'll stick with clickety-clickety if at all possible. I did my time sitting backwards while someone else drove WOT down back roads!

That goes for 150hp. I know from my experience with wide tires on a street-driven S30 sans-cage (no comments, please) that an honest 350 turbo horsepower can break your windshield. The possiblity of hyperspeeds (if you have the stickies) will dictate some sort of aero. You will have more than enough horsepower to give it up to drag to keep it on the ground. The possibilities will be exciting to see with some hard downforce and big HP to keep power down into and out of turns. If for nothing else a large acme-screw boost controller like the 917's had for different parts of LeMans, it simply said "600, 800, 1000" arrayed around the boost knob at roughly 120 degree intervals! What it was for is simple: On the technical portions, turn down the boost and get torque response for the twisties, but in preparation for the big straight turn it to 1000, hammer the throttle, and pray to gawd you are pointed in the right direction when the boost hits! Doubling the horsepower with a single twist of the wrist. Gotta love the turbo! (This is, BTW, how Electramotive kept the car together to win. If they had to make up time, HORSEPOWER! If not, dial it back to keep just ahead of the competition!) I believe it's eminently possible, and look forward to in-car multiple angle herocam shots!

Purely uninformed comment there. It is well known that the Electromtive L28ET was advertised at 750HP, at 21.6psi at 7500. In matter-of-fact, the number was closer to 1100HP, at higher boost and rpm numbers. The car was capable of lighting the rear meats onto the back straight at Riverside, and perpetuating that to the next corner. Driver commented that it was the first car he ever drove that 'Met the Granatelli Criterion'! There are a couple people here will over 600 in street cars, and one over 700 on C16 in his street car. And they made more than that in the 80's in Japan for Drag Racing. Don't underestimate the L28, the Myths are far underrating the actual Legend.

The XTerra is only rated for 3500 with an automatic, LESS with a manual. You were towing 4000#, what did you expect? A pontoon boat might be overdoing it with a CRV, but it all depends on what terrain you are going over and what speed you expect to attain. Towing capacities in the USA are a JOKE and totally based on litigation avoidance! I read the owners manuals when I get vehicles overseas, and christ in australia you caould tow half the continent with a Holden Astra... But the same car in the USA would be rated at 1500#. Loading and total vehicle/trailer weight is more important. The general rule is never tow a trailer that weighs more than your car without brakes on the trailer. If you have a properly loaded trailer, and functioning surge brake, or electric brakes on the trailer, then you aren't working the tow vehicle's brakes as hard and going slightly heavier would not be an issue. Personally I don't tow anything that weighs more than my Z if I can help it. I have towed another Z with mine (flat towed) for considerable distances. Done it with more than the Z. Just don't use overdrive, and if it's for a longer distance, consider cooling upgrades. If I was going to tow on the interstates and not local roads...I would consider more work on my Z for anything more than the 800# trailer I usually drag on long trips. I would say for local tows you will be fine, especially if you have trailer brakes. For longer distances I'd use a real truck. I tow my 6600# 20' trailer to move it around the yard with my wifes Frontier (Air Shocks!) but would not take it more than the5 miles to the weigh scales, I got the dually for that!

I got pulled over on Emergency Leave in 1986 back in Michigan by a county sheriff. Says he got me on radar doing 65 in a 45. (In my VW Microbus, uphill!) I looked at him totally shocked and incredulously asked: "In THIS?!?!?!?" Deputy took a step back, looked at my bus, said 'Yeah, I guess you're right! Have a nice day!' and went back to the cruiser and started fiddling with the Radar Gun. I was doing 65. I had a turbocharged 2110CC Blowthrough Engine in it at the time that made probably 250HP. But images die hard, and..."It's such a quiet little car, and so cute!" Muahahahahaha! Speaking of Huntington Beach, they are preparing to assess a $300 "Crash Tax" as the local talk radio screamers are fond of tagging it. Basically, if you aren't from the city, and are at fault for an accident, they bill you for the emergency response. I can see this one in court: "I didn't ASK for them to come, I didn't AUTHORIZE this response. Why should I pay? This is like stamps sent to me 'on approval'---I didn't solicit it, didn't WANT it, but they (under color of authority) FORCED ME TO SUBMIT TO THEIR TREATMENT. I was fully capable of calling my own tow truck, my son could have come get me!"

We could institute a GUNS-N-ROCK-N-ROLL Policy, but it may conflict with the no-politics rules...

The guys in Regina just have to cut me a P.O. and this time I'll drive over instead of fly direct! (Worked at the Co-Op for a couple of weeks in June...)

It works upon the same general principle as a steam eductor. If you have ever been on jobsites with Coppus Air Coolers this is a high pressure converted to low-pressure high-flow device. They are used extensively in industrial plants to cool machinery or personnel. A small 12 or 17mm hose feeds a larger annulus that induces ambient air and mixes with it using JT-Effect Cooling to drop the ambient temperature and deliver low-pressure high volume air out it's delivery end. Maybe 8 bar goes to the device, at X SCFM, but it produces 40X the SCFM at 1 psi or lower, at maybe 20C lower temperature than ambient air inducted for the amplification! For the Demand Expander Theory, look here: Demand Expander White Paper This is how an Eductor Works: Sorry, Wikipedia Link This is the Device most popular for the automotive application, the Air Amplifier: Air Amplifier Sales Propaganda Link How the Air Amplifier Works: Neat Animation Link How consumption and usage is dictated: Consumption Link Now, that link directly above shows a 1:152 amplification ratio, and that shows that if you have 120psi and can deliver it fast enough, you can with 6 scfm flow make well more air than a 3 liter can consume. The limit on this amplifier is that it can't have more than 2" restriction on the downstream side. There are other amplifiers which don't have this restriction, but knowing the effects of 'ram air' and what 2" of WC Positive pressure can have on torque even that little bit can show some interesting bumps in performance for short-term gains. The smaller the engine the easier these become to employ as storage capacity can be lower. ALSO note that not only does this produce positive pressure, it COOLS the intake charge. While an N/A application can make small gains, using one of these to pre-charge a turbo at 2" WC and radically dropped inlet temperature conditions can really make a difference in turbocharger efficiency, but I digress.... To take it further, though, an air booster from Bimba isn't practical for this application, but it is a neat little device for someone needing line boost at point-of-use in an industrial setting: Bimba Air Booster I will agree with Ron's statement that the original schematic as drawn wouldn't result in any boosting. But some quick-dump solenoids and proper amplification and the general principle does have practical application. I would liken it to me drawing some cavement throwing lumps of uranium ore at a larger pile of ore. No, nothing will happen except cancer...but refined a bit and it makes a "BOOM!" Lastly, and finally, here is a link to the Coppus Venturi Coolers---these things are lifesavers in the tropics or in a steam plant---copius (!) ammounts of cool air come out of these, they have amplification ratios that are outrageous and I know for a fact they will build pressure if restricted---enough to shoot basketballs some distance if you do it right! Or golf balls in the suction end... Generally they give around 9" W.C. static blocked-tight discharge pressures, but like anything with the proper eductor design, sized properly for the flow you expect to make, static pressures can be considerably higher with some loss of amplification. These things are at something like 40:1 and are made to flow, not necessarily pressurize. Drop those numbers by 1/4 and you realize your static pressure should increase by a factor of four, minimum. Coppus Cooler Link

Learn this trick: Harbor Freight Tools Digital Automotive Multimeter goes on sale for $9.99 occasionally. Buy one and keep it in the car! I have a small one I got in Australia which is VERY nice, and fits in the glovebox---a bit fatter than the normal compact calculator. When this kind of stuff comes up, having even a $9 cheapie meter is a lifesaver. I actually have one in most of the cars, like half a dozen! Keeps me from fretting my $450 Fluke will draw attention and result in a broken window one day as well! Good to see you found the issue. Didn't sound battery, sounded production related. One thing to realize is that the regulator (external) will FRY ALMOST IMMEDIATELY if it looses ground while powered-on. I ALWAYS put a coiled-wire pigtail on the foot of the thing with a sheetmetal screw and star washer---and I connect this to the chassis ground someplace nearby. That way, if I forget to power off the car when removing the regulator, or the bracket it mounts on (in the 260/280Z) I don't fry the reg again! It also lets me put the regulator up on the fender and do probing if need be, without being upside down or with my fingers near a whirring alternator fan.

At around 10.5:1 AFR you should be getting visible black soot out the tailpipe. It may not produce optimum horsepower, but it won't hurt as much as most think. Running to a 5% HC content gives a very forgiving torque curve and makes the car driveable, though not as economical in fuel mileage. For racing this is not that critical, and the car is far from detonation. The humidity and heat will affect air densities and fuel ratios. Running a chiller box on the fuel line will have similar affects (more dense fuel mix, atomizing and droping air temperatures in the manifold somewhat) but that is way down the line. Really, what you want to do is find a local dyno to do a baseline, and return to it for comparison of changes. If you can swing it, and have all your ducks in a row, renting it for a day for $500 - 800 may sound expensive, but will allow back-to-back comparos of timing, jet movements (needle position changes), float levels, and even Cam Timing. You can really dial it in. Failing that, this is an N/A car and doing this on a deserted level stretch of road is not out of the realm of possiblity. The newer GTECH PASS system will give you repeatable results which you can correleate to most WBO2 dataloggers for pretty accurate front-end comparison and tuning, saving several hours on the dyno. I spent the better part of a month one summer taking suction piston station height readings and comparing to CHT and EGT to get the needle correct on a Turbo Corvair back in the early 80's. You guys have no idea how much easier it is to tune these days with what is available. And how much easier it is to do with EFI!