Tony D

For some peolle, the knowledge they gain reading the book would justify the cost. For others, with blinders on, I guess they would focus on the financial right-at-hand issue and miss the big picture of self improvbement, interdisciplinary knowledge base enrichment, and the possiblity that asset recovery costs would offset it after knowledge was gained. Then again, if $150 is a serious stumbling block to completion (or the fact that some dealers in small hick towns might just print off the diagram if simply askedis laid aside) you might want to reconsider the hobby you have chosen to profess to engage... I merely pointed out the 'can't see the forest through all the trees' nature of your lame excuses. That's all. no need to get bitter about it. Sorry I gave you the resources to solve your problem. Figure it out your way. You have been so successful in your no-expense quest thus-far!

is your edis firing order correct?

Corporate laptop precludes me using firefox, much to my chagrin... I don't have the issue on the house laptop, not that I'm there much to use that one.

If you had the FSM, you would know that, wouldn't you Randy?

A 40 foot Standard Conex Sea Container is anywhere from 800 to 1500$ and will handily fit two Z-Cars in them, free of rodents and insects. The nice thing is with some pressure-treated 2X6 bolted to it, you can make a nice lean-to off either side as well, giving you outside storage for four more! If you ever decideto pare down the Z's you can use it to make a secure workshop inside---unless someone has a torch, they aren't getting into it! I currently have five at my place, and will soon have a metal building roof on order to cover three of them making for a 24X53 workspace between three of them.

probably too late, but FSM is a good primer on brakes on the car, just make sure you get the 77/78 manual, as their rear brake systems are different than all the earlier cars.

yep, 4's or blank ones (nissan grading number) will work. They don't need 7's. Those go on critical fasteners like ball joint bolts, etc...

You can always have the exhaust exit through a modified tunnel under the driver or passenger's seat and out the rocker panel area...

holy necroposts batman! I think this was solved 6 years ago! someone wants to post something up for sale in the classifieds in a big way if they're responding to this now...

Seems to be a lot of stuff popping up now. Site seems to bog and load slower as well.

" I will try timeing it by ear first if that doesn't work then troubleshoot the distributor as per the fsm." Enjoy your process. When you want to do things scientifically and actually solve the problem with the least amount of drama, let us know. Good Luck!

most windowscreen these days is nylon. You can get stainless mesh from McMaster-Carr supply, it's a lifetime replacment if it's SS.

Buy a multimeter instead of parts, and start checking things out instead of replacing them. When something else happens down the road, at least you will still be able to use the multimeter. What's the gap on the plugs? What is the resistance of the plug wires? What is the power to the coil and pick doing when this happens? I had an intermittent heat problem which caused a water injection unit in the car to make the electronic ignition in my car do strange things like that---tach went crazy, backfired and popped like a points car with a bad condenser. Don't know where Doylestown was, but I was in Export and Jeanette a couple weeks ago...

The Nismo 780KG clutch was rated to hold 250hp and 250ft-lbs of torque. At 10psi on the dyno...it went 'poof'! So much for those claims. The CF I installed later held to slightly more than 300, but as things get mileage on them, you will see wear, and wear means slippage.

I ran either, could swap from NA to turbo in an hour. Remove turbo stuff, put the header back on, swap the the other jet set, and go running. "Wasn't this car Turbo at the AutoX yesterday?" That was yesterday... Then again those epoxy injector bungs and gutted 40 DCOE's don't sound like such a bad alternative now, right?

Check TDC before making timing adjustments! It moves. This wouldn't be the first time someone messed up a properly set car by resetting the timing on a slipped pulley. If it ran 15 miles, likely it's not the ECU. Too bad about the ECU bought. Check the links on the EFI Bible and the FSM for your year, the troubleshooting and explanations in those two areas really clear up the 'mystery box'... I'd do a basic set of checks from the FSM troubleshooting section, including testing the advance on the distributor (both centrifugal and vacuum). And I'd check if the injector connectors have 'the green grunge' on them, cleaning them usually helps with lean running.

There were issues with the Blow Through System as well. People forget, the greatness of the internet is that you can go back to 'page 1' and read from the beginning. The primary rule when putting on any aftermarket system is 'put it on a properly running car'... The caveat for Megasquirt has been from the beginning 'don't put this on an EFI car with problems and think it will solve it, it may not be with the EFI' Any kind of endeavor like this has to be viewed as a 'whole car' approach. The electrical system on the 240 is marginal to begin with, an upgraded alternator and good battery are crucial to have ANY EFI system work. Guys putting MS into GM's are blessed with alternators which are HUGE in comparison and can handle stuff like this without much ado. But on the little Datsuns you have to look at what the factory did when they went to the second-generation EFI (ECCS)---not only did they swap in a gear reduction starter on the ZXT to keep from draining the battery voltage down while cranking the engine, as well as going to an internally regulated 85A alternator. If you are running electric fans (10 or so amps each), rotary fuel pump (10-15 amps) you have already run out of the stock 35 A Hitachi alternator. The #1 problem with MS after wiring issues, is bad power. Same thing for SDS users... It's not MS - Specific. Get the power production up to par so that the alternator can handle the power requirements at idle or close to it, and THEN see what the problem starts to be. My bet is things get better with more juice to all the e-toys in the car. Especially after the sun goes down! I have not run a MS on a car WITHOUT at LEAST the ZX internally-Regulated Alternator and a gear reduction starter (ZXT engine swap). I figure if Nissan Engineers said it was a good idea in a second generation EFI Car, then it probably is a good idea for mine as well!

Not so odd, really. The original hot rods were inline sixes and fours of similar displacement. An L28 makes for a nice swap into an old 63 Falcon... Saw a 3/5th scale hot rod with a toyota 2TG in it one time. I've seen one with a VG 30 and sidedrafts on it (one cut in half!) For the $$$, looks like a nice rig. I wouldn't mind driving that one around. The inline six looks right at home. "Like in the beginning." I mean, before there was a Datsun 6, some of us lusted after the 'Ultimate Chevy II Nova', powered 'the right way'...I mean, anybody can put a big V8 into a car and make it quick!

Chances are something other than the e-brake cable is causing this, the brakes can lock up for a number of reasons. Best to pull the drums and check them out well. The earlier cars had a 'sliding' wheel cylinder to help adjust the brakes with the e-brake. The later cars had fixed cylinders and seem prone to things freezing up and then dragging. When the brakes are adjusted correctly (for the e-brake to engage fully in three clicks as the FSM says) they are much tighter than the typical American Car 'one turn when spun by hand' standard. Remember that pressure differential between the brake circuits will also get that brake light to be on... And so will a switch not contacting properly. Good Luck.

Fuel Feed: 5/16" (8mm) Fuel Return: 1/4" (6mm) I think your fitting is return.

General Rule of Thumb is air at 120F holds twice as much air that is 85F. We get this in industrial compressors all the time. Design is to have air entering the second stage at 120 so no condensate removal trap is required. Some genius Facilities Engineer decides he's going to out-think the OEM and 'increase intercooling efficiency' so he taps off his chilled water system to decrease interstage temperatures. Forgets condensation will occur. Formerly air passing into the 2nd stage was 85-100% R/H at 120F, it's now 100% R/H at 60 degrees. Ooops, 'water got out'... And then after a couple of hours running, they get a vibration shutdown. Or worse. Then the phone call comes about 'your pos compressor'... The 'eureka moment' is golden: Did it ever occur to you why we didn't provide a condensate trap on the 2nd Stage, Sir? At 120F we don't get any condensate dropout. You used electrically generated chilled water to 'increase efficiency' and while you increased air density you also increased electrical load on the compressor motor...so what did you REALLY get for that 'increased airflow out of the machine'? We can get you more airflow, and yes, we will want a larger motor. NOTHING is free! Well, maybe if you had 48 degree ultra-clean well water you could have eliminated the chilled water electrical cost... but you don't so let's talk about this rotor wreck you have precipitated by flooding the second stage with condensate, my esitmate is around $22,000 for the high speed rotor assembly, plus labor.... What was that you said about 'saving money' again?

When Mikuini was supplying their intake manifold and carburettors for the Datsun Z, they had an AN Fitting Stainless Braided Line Kit available. I think Pegasus Racing in Wisconsin sells the metric Banjo fittings for the carbs now... I know there are Weber Fuel Inlet to AN Fittings available out there...

Rod Balancing Jig #1 Impressive Rod Balancing Jig This looks like the one I built in the 70's from Finch's Book That should get it rolling... Read the link on the 3200cc Corvair Engine. Guys complain about having to measure stuff on a Datsun 'look where I came from!'LOL I'm guessing your comment about the stroker is based on your decision to use cast pistons, and not some internet myth about some arbirtary limit of '7500 rpm harmonic'... Oh gawd I hope it's not that...

I completely, totally, 1,000,000,000,000,000,000% disagree! This is EASILY done at home with some hardwood dowels, (or teflon) and a drug scale from Harbor Freight! Making a rod balancing jig is not a big deal. Friction is almost a non issue if you make one using some aluminum and a 1/4" rod to support the end not being weighed. I have been balancing at home since the late 70's and can usually get them identical. I would at a minimum get them all to weigh the same. What you have is a gross number, what you need are two more measurements, 'big end' and 'small end'... You can do this in a pinch with some fishing string to hold up the end you aren't weighing. using a jig makes for a faster process though. With digital scales being available that weigh to 0.1 of a gram, there really isn't a reason not to get end-to-end weights to that tolerance at least. A 2gm variance rod-to-rod would not do for me. Not in a street car. Hell, not even in a Chevy!

There was a Nissan Sealant Specification for that stuff. It's the same that's on the exterior hose fitting. "Permanent, yet removable" Any Epoxy will need to be heat/oil resistant. I have used Aluminum Devcon for machinable structures in that area. As long as it's CLEAN and no oil is in the pores whatever you stick it to will stay stuck.