Tony D

Try a set of FLAT TOPS. They idle on a SEPARATE CIRCUIT from the needles, so the IDLE mixture can be adjusted SEPARATELY AND INDEPENDENTLY from the power circuit (ever wonder why all the Flat Tops have the needles savagely removed---perhaps because they have a more agressive taper for the larger L26 that made more HP than the L24???) Sure, the power valve isn't the greatest for the progression, but unless you are willing to taper your own needle you are experiencing EXACTLY what Nissan did when trying to get emission compliance, and came up to the same conclusion that spawned SU's invention of the HIF-6 Carburettor. Separate the idle on it's own circuit, leaving WOT and High Load on the needle. But remember, "Flat Tops Are Boat Anchors"...

Hose Size / Velocity is valid. The larger the hose, the slower the velocity, the more surface for coalescing. Also remember this stock hose is CONDUCTIVE for static dissipation, and has a flame arrestor (metal tube brush) stuffed in there as well. People can make plenty of stuff look great, but it doesn't mean it's engineered to provide the same safety margins or functionality as the stock parts. You shouldn't sacrifice safety for flash in this instance, a crankcase explosion is not a fun event. "BOOF!"

Yep, my 1960 Corvair still has the card that says to write to Helm to get the domestic stuff GM wise... So does my 1990 dually, so chances are if they were doing it from 1959 to 1990, chances are they are still the place to look today. Just a guess...

If it's the connector for the EFI Relays, the Fairlday Z has it on the same side as LHD cars, it will NOT be by the steering wheel on the RHD Dash, it will be up near the glove box. My 76 and 77 are packed away now, but if you still can't find it I can go look where it is on my car and give you a general location with a photo or two. I put a 76 280Z EFI harness into my 76 Fairlady Z, and the EFI relay plug from the LHD Car was a perfect fit to wherever the connector was on my Fairlady. The plug configuration was EXACTLY the same, and there was NOTHING nearby that had a plug even remotely close to plugging into it. You may want to look for an Australian or UK Spec FSM (if such a thing exists separately) as I have not had much success finding mush service manual information on the FZ.

What massive gain do you expect for all this work and use of now non-standard parts? Realistically? Think about that aspect long and hard. I suspect the gains will be minimal in the real world, and neglible in real performance quantification. And the increased CR.... What was that you said, you have a blown head gasket?

Nonstop 16 hour days since the beginning of the month, plus getting some sort of Canadian Crud which causes hacking, snot production in my lungs, a headache, and sinuses which feel like they will explode may be affecting my memory. I can see the bearing and when we installed it...but can't clearly see the "NTN" number afterwards... And all I have to look forward to is 12 days in the freakin' desert when this is done. Not any desert, the freakin' desert, A.K.A. "The Sandbox and Environs Therein"

Anybody's table is a STARTING POINT ONLY. Each bin must be checked and compared. There is a site on TurboMopars that describes using a VW Knock Sensor bolted to the block, and routed to a simple amplifier circuit and headphones to detect detonation. Apparently the characteristics of the VW sensor make it act like a Peizoelectric Microphone and you can actually hear it over a regular speaker because of the way it works. The guys there using it love it, they are saying it works WAY better than the garden-hose stethescope--hearing detonation well before where they thought 'they were O.K.'... Remember it's not the detonation you hear that gets you. Its the stuff you never hear that breaks things! You just stay on it, oblivious. I get the impression Ben is spending a lot of time at WOT...

What octane gas is everybody using? When was the last calibration of the torque wrench used? Was there a retorque after initial start? What is the surface finish of the head and block (too smooth machining, and you can slip easier than properly finished pieces...) Are the MSQ files IDENTICAL including all REQ FUEL / Injector Sizing / Fuel Pressure? If not/why not? What fuel pump is being used? Could it be internally bypassing hurting flow or pressure? "Break In Oil" is simply a non-detergent so any micro bits of metal fall out of suspension in the pan and do not get suspended in the oil stream by the detergent package. It is identical to normal detergent motor oil, other than that. And now possibly they are putting in high-zinc additives since regular oil no longer contains them.

Medford, Salem, PDX, and yes even Medford when forced to drive to Seattle for a job a couple of times stayed in the 'new' Holiday Inn Express matter of fact---everybody has an excuse not to call their local dealer and get the address where to buy their service manuals. If I could get 'order from address' for VW service manuals from Robert Bently Publishing in RALPH MICHIGAN in 1979 by making a person-to-person long distance phone call to the nearest local VW Dealer in MARQUETTE MICHIGAN, I'm sure the bustling metropolis of MEDFORD OREGON area might have a local DOMESTIC-PRODUCTION PRODUCTS Dealer to consult on where to find a factory service manual for a Cobalt in 2010. (That means ANYTHING from Dodge, Chevy, Ford, BTW...) Poor excuse. Medford is a f-ing Gotham in comparison to Ralph...or my other favorite place: Ewen Michigan (We called it the 'Twin Locations' in tribute to Minneapolis-St. Paul...you know "The Big City"...) Fairly far apart (especially in 24" of new snow), with Ewen being closer to Bruce, but since the VW guy from Florida kept his stockpile of cars at Bruce Crossing it was a regular pilgrimage so we could share the 'official' manuals I had in exchange for the parts he had. And once a year I would pick him up for the Big Fur Rendevous/Sale over in Sagola (Amasa, actually...)THAT was a long day... but I digress. You were saying about Rural Medford again? 300" of snow annually, months below zero at a time during the winter and the only imported guy around for....er.....miles? Boo Hoo life is hard cry me a river...sorry if I don't feel your 'pain' it looks self-inflicted! In your travels, I doubt you've been to Ralph. Or Ewen. Or Julius Belaze's Fox Den at Bruce Crossing. Perhaps you were in Hulbert? I have, lived there, did that. I could get manuals over the phone and through the mail. If you can't today, it's purely sloth on your part, or cheapskated-ness.

Yet another piece to be harvested from an LD28: the oil pump drive gear. No cutting required, just stub-shafted from the factory as in BRAAP's example. And you don't trash a perfectly good distributor drive quill, either! There is either a Naichi, or NTN ball bearing which will fit in the distributor recess, and over the end of the quill shaft. A Welsh Plug in the hole them gives it a finished look. Someone will have to measure the two diameters, but as I recall it was a standard off the shelf part when we put it in a car with Electromotive TEC2 back in 92 or 93... been a while, sorry I can't remember the number offhand.

Use of moly lube on stock head bolts will likely result in overtorquing of the OEM parts. The specification calls in the FSM for motor oil, and moly will result in significantly lower turning friction. On engineered fasteners, this can actually lead to fastener failure as the excess torque puts the fastener into plastic deformation, instead of elastic. There really isn't a 'one product fits all' application assembly lube. People use them as such, but it's not right.

So let me get this straight... You 'don't mind spending the money' so you go to an aftermarket pirate outfit to get information on complex vehicle safety systems and pay $25 for it, instead of going to the book the dealers use (who have to assume the liability for their repairs because they are a manufacturer's representative) and which costs $400+ in some cases. And then complain that it doesn't contain the same information? Have you ever heard of the concept of 'You get what you pay for?' I mean really---do you think from Chilton's standpoint they want to assume the liability for translating a manufacturer's service text written for specialists and professionals into dumbed-down speak for home hobby people who need instruction on how to change brake pads and check the oil? No doubt the Chiltons manuals suck. Haynes is slightly better, but neither is a substitute for a proper Factory Service Manual on the vehicle you are working. The GM Manuals for a 94 Camaro is something like 3 Volumes that are close to 2 1/2 to 3" thick. The section on fuel injection covers things in such minute detail and is written at a low reading level even the most basic guy could understand the complexities of short and long-term fuel trim. NONE of this is covered in detail in ANY of the aftermarket manuals. Why? the vast majority of the people wanting those manuals aren't looking for that kind of depth of detail. They are changing brake pads, and oil, and maybe replacing a bulb or transmission as an assembly. Not breaking the individual components down further than that... You should have known better. You should have never expected such liability-risky information to be enclosed in a current edition manual in the USA. Maybe in the 60's those manuals covered everything because it was basic mechanical information you needed to be competent with to affect repairs. Now, the liability is FAR to great for a publisher of an aftermarket manual to give directions on complex safety systems and etc. What was in there about the ABS system? See a pattern? For shame trying to spend $25 and get the knowledge you know will not be there! You get what you pay for, and I would never expect a $25 3/4" thick paperback to compare to the FSM in any way, shape or form... The Manual for my wife's Y2K Frontier was $297 either in dead-tree or CD Rom. For that money, I'd almost demand dead trees... but CD was easier to carry in the car. You want detailed information, you go to the source, not Grandpa Jones and his local printing press...

I would post 'go to jail' tickets with the Turbo going down the onramp from Van Buren onto the 215 South (before all the Yuppies moved to Murietta and clogged it interminably)... Entrance was easily done at 100+ down the ramp. And 6300 in fourth was mere seconds away from that if I had a clear road. Now, you want to put it in fifth and push it past, say, 5800 you are in for a long slow road. Better have a good fuel pump and intercooler! Anybody got Google Earth? 33* 48.957'N 117* 14.377'W What on earth could that be from? Who put that big "X" there in the middle of the road with paint so it's visible from the Electric Eye? When I visited home, I ran the old run. Start 44 17 897N, 83 31 374W, Heading 134.81 End 44 21 321N, 83 36 196W. Elevation Change:54m It was good for top speed jetting checking. It was where my 74 Impala Police Special 'don't do this during the week again' speech got read to me...I can almost pick out the exact spot to this day where the MSP stopped me for 'The Talk'...

Hey, I'm only outside the city a little bit (Riverside/Woodcrest). You can have chickens in most municipal locations in SoCal you know... Chickens are a good profit center as well! As someone once told me: "A Chicken is the Perfect Animal; what other animal can you...." Ah, waitaminit, maybe this isn't the place for that particular quotable quote... In his defense the guy who said it was from Jersey...

Story told here before: Bought car for $3500, salvage title one year old at the time (theft chop shop recovery). Drove for 150K miles, hit on 60 FWY and drove it home. Totaled by Insurance, got paid $3700, minus $500 scrap value on the car and retained it. Sold car for $600 and a baby goat. Bought male goat for $175 to hook up with the baby when mature and start making free lawn and weed abatement for my yard. Pair mated and had triplets on first mating. Sold each of the goat offspring for $150 at easter (reaped $450!) Sold the proven mating pair with propensity toward multiple births for $450. I think we made out on our car as well! My suggestion: Buy a goat with the money, just keep them away from the Z's! They like to climb...

Yep, if you think about it...that single screw was enough to perform that function before you doubled it. With two, you could half the velocity across the orifice and cut down on the noise. Also, remember just because you have an IAC does NOT mean you don't require an idle air bypass. The IAC is NOT for idling the car! It's as you suggested: Idling it UP when an accessory comes on---base idle speed is almost always set with some sort of fixed bypass to get a base 'limp home' mode should a valve fail. The original AAR in the turbos eventually incorporated a small screw to block the pintile open so if the Diaphragm failed, the car would still idle at around 6-700 rpms. It was not dependent on a control device to function in order to start and idle the car. IAC is what you use for fast idle warmup, A/C clutch engagement, even anti-stall programming and Hydrocarbon Reduction on drop-throttle--really it's a misnomer to call it an idle air controller. It's more of a "Idle Load Compensation Valve"

The second sticky on this site is in camofluage... It's says "A quick FI and ignition 280zxt to S30 turbo swap guide". I realize it's pretty trickily worded with all those inside chassis number designations and what may seem superfluous 'FI and ignition' information and it's not directly labeled 'Swap Guide'... But there IS a reason people should read through the stickies from time to time. Even old-timers. Never know what you will find behind titles that mislead you!

Well, I do have several containers...

"Captive Volume based on vapor pressure." I don't even want to get into safety factors, flows, and crap like that, but there is a rationale for the larger sizes when venting volative fluids. But like most stuff Nissan Did, it was 3X overdone. Engine Blocks that routinely last 300K when they can run 100K and at the time be overhauled (and people would accept it as normal, especially the British...) Take a look today at vapor transfer hose and see what the maximum size you have!

I can't believe someone said 'there is no stock piston that will do that'... Since when was it a criteria to use stock pistons? And as for the ringstack argument, I pretty much expected that. Think within the box and you will achieve results like everybody else. Something to think about: Do you really want to run stock thickness rings in an engine that will effectively spin to over 10,500 rpms? And who says the oil control ring needs to be where it is in the stock configuration. Think within the box, achieve the within the box results.

Easiest thing to do with those vent hoses is get a 15mm to 10mm Nylon Adapter Fitting, install it at the tank, and then route all the hoses in cheap, readily available and flexible 3/8" fuel line. I have used 1/4" as well. I can pressurize my tank to 5+Psig without a single whiff of leakage. The 510's used nylon joiners and couplers from the OEM, they last forever. This way, you can salvage straight portions (about 2" long) to stick on the tank, and put the adapter right there. Done deal. Sealing the penetrations where the 15mm used to come through the floor was done with some shrink tubine (the kind with glue on it) and some burrer stoppers I had around that were bored to 3/8" hose O.D., razor split, and pushed into the larger holes. Haven't had a problem since. This is VAPOR HOSE. The flows you have are miniscule through it. 10mm will work fine. Some JDM cars only had one vent, and that was a 1/4" dump off the filler neck. We don't need the big fancy braided hoses. Smaller stuff retains 100% functionality.

Your own qualifications say you weren't in the market for his product. He doesn't sell "properly aimed and properly designed housings with cut offs and what not" for an HID 'conversion', he sells H4 Lights and Reflectors for H4 Lights. Like I said, people hear what they want to hear.

It can only be classified as a "Homer Moment" if it was 1) Unintended 2) Caused Grief due to the Damage Inflicted I could have cared less, I needed to pull fenceposts, I used the tools at hand (see Avtar)... I will be the old guy in the WalMart parking lot with the dented GT-R in coming years. It's a car, use it! If I'm going to Deify something, I think a pint of Guinness would suffice. Or perhaps a vole... I mean, come on...I'm not in a Cargo Cult indoctrination forum here, am I? "It floated ashore, and gave us transport, Sim ba Mashuka!" I know it's not real Koopa-Kai, but I never figured out how headhunters learned such good pidgin english or why Gilligan didn't shoot back 'Why are you asking me in english and not Koopa-Kaiian?' I mean, Gilligan was a gawd. Dobie Gillis. That I can see. Or a vole... But a car? C'mon!

Interesting characterization of what undoubtedly was agitated ramblings of an aged member of the populace... I don't know if I'd call him a 'ranter' though he does know his lights. I guess people will hear what they want, and both parties have the ability to not do business if one party doesn't see a mutual benefit. From my reviewing of people dealing with him, you're the exception to the rule of recommendation. To each his own I guess. I never had a problem, and like I said, the 'cheapies' I bought lasted 15 years. Worked for me.

"Top Line / Bottom Line" Any sizes? Don't have a tank in front of me to know which end is up. I think a line which is plugged is your first concern. Ram some brazing rod down the line, or maybe a coathanger to see if something is in the bend in the line inside the tank. Get the tank working, after that's done...well...you realize these came with a perfectly good mechanical pump. Since you don't say what carbs you have (maybe the original flat-tops are some of the nebulous 'missing stuff' you refer to...) a mechanical pump may work perfectly fine for you. Since you said 'want to do it on a budget' I'm betting the mechanical pump will work juuuuuust fine. Another advantage of a mechanical pump: They don't burn out when run dry!