Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Our L28 Bonneville Motor had peak power at 8250rpms, and we 'inched up on it' for four years before pulling it to go with the 2L engine which has a power peak 'around 9K' but our bearings looked like new after four years of that kind of beating.
What kind of weight are we talking about for the whole Flywheel/Pressure Plate assembly---and how closely is it balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly.
Ou low-inertia Tilton flywheel/clutch assembly weighs in slightly under 15#, and even that is 'heavy' for what we need. The more weight you hang off an end, the more potential damage you can do. It's curious that bearing and the scoring...you didn't have a filter diagnosis done and look at what you had in the oil filter by chance did you? I'm wondering if you were sucking air/pumping air and it damaged the bearing, or perhaps you have a filter relief valve lift at some time dumping a load of swarf donw the central feed galley into your crank area?
On the L28, we ran to at least 8500 before shifting. El Mirage wasn't that long in each gear compared to Bonneville. i wish I had a video to show of a Bonneville Run. It is definately 'inching' above 8K for more than 2 miles, we are at close to terminal speed with our 3.36 near the end of mile one, and then 'inch' floorboarded for the next two miles. And I know our oil feed is good, as is drainback...throw in some corners and I could see how oiling could be more of a problem than in our ideal 'straightline' torture test.
Do you have the external oiling modification for the stock pump?
Puzzling...
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Just for reference. A lighter flywheel, does nothing for HP to the ground. Talk to bonniville racers, and you will findout what and what does not matter for all out HP. It makes it rev happy, for an autocross car or what not, but no increased HP. Same with a lighter drive shaft. A piston being lighter does help though.
Er....
uh....
We picked up 3mph at ElMirage on Convo-Pro rims.
Another 1 mph from an Aluminum Driveshaft.
Horsepower 'increases' you are speaking of don't directly relate to that kind of speed increas on the salt, but decreasing rotational inertia in the driveline DOES pay massive dividends. We didn't go with carbon fiber drveshaft because of the $$$ and paranoia.
Our flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate assembly weighs less than most people's clutch cover. And on top of that it's reduced diameter for less moment of inertia.
If you think people at Bonneville are running stock weight flywheels for some 'horsepower advantage' you are sorely mistaken.
"Rev Happy" is the name of the game. The ability to accelerate the mass moving the power to the ground. Every ounce there reduced makes for quicker revving when in gear. And that translates directly to faster acceleration, and therfore quicker achievement of terminal velocity.
Do all you wish with lightening the pistons, but if you are running a heavy flywheel at Bonneville, you're concentrating on the absolutely wrong portion of the equation.
SCTA 17 World Records: F/PRO, F/GALT, F/GCC Bonneville, El Mirage, Muroc:burnout:
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It's only available for OBD2 or never GM ECUs'
If it's driving TBI injectors, likely it's OBD1 Tier0 and will not have that capability.
Which GM ECU are you using? Something from a Mid 80's/Early 90's 2.8L V6 Pickup Truck like an S10 or S15 should be very close to what you need.
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Oh, mack is driving out the MSA again?
I'll make sure I have the phone ringer on 'high' in expectation of the 2AM call from Cabazon, or Blythe, or Chiraco Summit...
LOL
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Hell I'll claim it...173.325mph. That fast enough for a direct-drive top-gear box?
Of course, it's a five speed, but the top gear ratio is the same as any 4 speed out there...
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Not familiar with this. Are you saying that R200 carriers do fit in the R190?
Absolutely not. You mentioned H190 / R190 when the OP was referencing an R180. Like R180 parts don't fit on an R190, neither will R190 parts fit on an R200. Different ring gear sizes mean different parts.
So regardless of H/R190 compatibility, H/R190 parts will not interchange on H/R180's...(or H/R200's!)
I thought my H/R compatibility possibility was clear, and that the ring gear size difference made it incompatible. Apparently not. Don't follow the logic thinking it did, but that is beside the point.
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Properly support the pipes off the back of the transmission with a strap and hanger from the supplied tailshaft housing 'ears' and you will never have this issue again.
It is my most outstanding complaint about the MSA systems: they do not utilize all the stock Nissan Hanger locations. They went and redesigned the damn 2.5" mandrel bent system to use three bolt flanges when they had a perfectly good (and tweakable) slip-fit system. I don't know how many of those I installed, and NEVER had a problem after I hung the center of the piping from the trans tailshaft like Nissan did on the stock systems.
Those Engineers at Nissan knew their stuff.
Weld a bracket between your twice pipes, and run your hangar to the tailshaft from there. Put the system up using a jack so you have it where you want it, then tighen all your clamps---THEN install that strap and hangar onto the tailshaft. That should solve it permanently.
I tend to put the clamps on in a "U" configuration as well: nuts up. That way when something drags or hits them, they don't booger the threads, or have anything substantial to snag on and pull the system apart.
Good Luck!
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What it involves is that similar problems return when they change the systems. The government mandated lower EVAP standards, one way to DRAMATICALLY reduce evap is to keep the fuel cooler. Not running a return line accomplishes this.
Go measure your fuel tank temperature when you have 1/4 tank! You will see what I mean (and also why people who are perpetually broke have more problems with their EFI---that hot fuel has a tendency to get vaporized in the rail more often than the guy running around with a full tank!)
So the solution in the late 70's was to pre-run the fuel pump for 3 or so seconds whenever you turn the key on, and keep the fuel flushed and pressurized.
And this worked FINE for DECADES (80's, 90's) but then came returnless fuel systems.
Deadheaded cooler fuel in an engine bay that now is running 215F instead of 180F... all those covers, tight engine bays, lots of sound insulation keeping everything toasty...
So they have to figure out how to keep it from doing what it did in the 70's. And that answer was to go to a cranking relay. The SOLUTION WORKS! The problem WILL ALWAYS EXIST! It will not go away. You can not change the laws of physics.
The thing is, people driving cars today are even more ignorant than they were about their vehicles than they were in the 70's. So it becomes automatic. It reduces warranty incidences, customer complaints, etc etc etc...
I mean, my dad killed the battery in his Ford LTD one cold day because he was out of habit flooring the pedal before cranking the car. "Flood Clear"---no fuel goes to the engine. Of course second recrank, he really floors it to 'set the choke' and exacerbates it. So then he cranks it again with the throttle held open to clear out the gas that it wasn't injecting...
Repeat until battery is totally dead. It was so common amongst older car owners Ford was letting distribution know to MAKE SURE they instructed their customers that they DIDN'T TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL AT ALL before the engine started!
Now, they don't have to do that, either. You just touch the contacts on the ignition switch, and the car auto-cranks and auto starts. In many now, with throttle by wire nothing you do to it will affect the T/B position until after it get's a 'run acknowledgement' from the ECU check cycles.
I digress...
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The GM setup is very close, but there is wiring changes involved. There is a website out there that detailed a MS install into a Corvette that used the stock GM harness and pretty simple changes.
Depending on what GM ECU you have, tuning on the fly is possible, but likely you have something in the late 80's or early 90's with a reburnable prom. You might want to contact Turbo City in Orange CA...they used to do custom burns on GM ECUs to run everything from N/A VW 1600's to Turbocharged what-have-yous!
Though MS will drive what you have, and likely will be cheaper to boot!
Later (OBD2) compliant GM ECU's have a program called "TunerCat" that has a very nice interface for tuning on the fly. Given the long and short term fuel trim in the newer ECU's, it is a very nice setup. It's my 'dark side' but yeah, I've been helping a buddy with his LT '94 in a 74' Camaro Swap...yeah, I do domestics too. It's not something I'm proud of, kind of like the sheep incident up outside London some years ago...
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I would not think it is any different than R200 parts on / in an R190.
I could see R/H 180's being compatible, I'm just not familiar with anyone who has done it.
This bit of information makes my H233 Frontier happy for the possibility of getting an LSD then!
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The R-Series carriers are different than the H-Series carriers from what I understand. The H is what is in a wagon, the coupes use the R-Series differentials.
It may work in a coupe, which has the IRS rear suspension, but I'm pretty sure it's a no-go for a wagon with the live rear axle. BTW, same axle is in a 521 Truck...
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LOL, sorry... ever since I saw a Ferrari Crankshaft naked and made the revelation "ohhhhhhh...!"
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Bit of overkill there IMO. There is far more weight in your Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Driveshaft, Axles, and Road Wheels/Tyres that will affect revving far more than the tradeoff of durability in trying to take more weight out of the rod throws!
Everybody raves about their 11# flywheel...when they hang a 15# pressure plate off of it! Never made sense to me...
If you wanted crank work, why knife edge when you could have cut the throws down completely and balanced the stub-counterweights (which now won't splash in oil and create windage) with Mallory-Metal? Same total weight, with far less moment of inertia, stability and quicker revs with less lost to windage...
Oiling through the rod journals may make hollow rod journals a bit impractical as well.
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Yep, that little "S Terminal Bypass Switch" is a quick and easy way to never have to get that irritation ever again.
Curiously, has anybody ever noticed moder cars with returnless fuel systems now have a start relay that controls cranking of the car---it's not a direct action from the ignition switch...it has interplay through the ECU. My Dodge Truck only needed a 'tick' from the ignition via key, and the car cranked itself till it started. The rental Altima I has a couple of weeks ago with the 'pushbotton start' was similar...
Ever wonder why they do that? Perhaps there is some fuel pump modulation that is occurring that pre-runs the fuel pump to prime a deadheaded fuel rail and compress the gasseous fuel bubbles back into solution before the engine actually cranks???
Hmmmm, could be! The more things change, the more they stay the same!
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Webcams is off 3rd Street in Riverside. I pass them every night coming home from work when I'm in town...why on earth would I e-mail them something????
+1 951 369 5144 or FAX +1 951 369 7266
They prefer phone conversations to anything else. Face-to-Face is better. Take a holiday!
Set up a Skype Account in the USA and your talking to them relatively clearly for less than a couple 'o pence a moment. Fax your enquiry and set up a time to call for clarifications and technical commentary.
I'd ditto above, that cam is nowhere near 'radical' for the street. It depends on engine size as well, what works for a 1600 is not nearly as sedate as a similar performing cam in a 2L retrofitted down in the displacmeent range.
Good Luck!
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I think I used a 5/8" heater hose cap from the 'Help' section...it may have been bigger. As I recall the NAPA where I got them has truck parts, so it may have been larger. But I'm almost positive a 5/8" (15mm) fits.
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I definitely see where you're coming from. However, insurance, etc. is something you need to have anyway... so unless you've got something to hide, no need to worry.
Well, that crossed into the political commentary, if nothing prior did!
I have to stop now on a reply, as there is no retort to that statement that can not come from a political viewpoint!
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What moving parts does a Weber have less than 'other carbs'?
I think a Rochester 2G is about as simple a carb as you can get, and far less 'moving parts' than a Weber.
Ever look at the starting device on a Weber? Yeech! Gears and levers... hell Mikuini used a simple rotating disc.
There's not a lot to the machanics of cleaning one, tuning one properly on the other hand....that can be a lifetime of toil if you won't settle for 'good enough' at some point!
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It's only a problem during that 5-10 minute period after a hot shutdown.
Later cars use a priming pulse of the fuel pump to restore fuel pressure to the rail and prevent this hot restart problem.
But this should NEVER happen after a 10 minute drive, even in 130+ heat.
If yours is doing this after that short of a run, you have OTHER issues not related to heat soak. A leaking injector, a leaking pump check valve, an obstructed fuel pump inlet, or running very hot to begin with...
Normally, this will occur after a highway run in heat (like I10 driving to phoenix in July pullinga small trailer) and then only in the 5-10 minutes after shutdown. Leat it rest for a 30 minute lunch, and it restarts FINE, try a restart after a 5 minute 'gas and go' and FINE. It takes time for the rail to heat soak, and then time for it to properly dissipate.
One thing I found that helped quite a bit was running a 160 degree thermostat (save the comments guys, it does not kill my mileage, nor does it cause any adverse issues in real world applications on the early S30 EFI!) the underhood temperatures really stayed lower than when running a 190, and it works really nicely.
But like I said, if yours is doing this after a 10 minute run to lunch, something is BIG wrong. That should NOT be happening.
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Two customers I have (one running a WRX and another a M3 in STX/STU) report about 6,000 miles of use before they were down to the wear bars.
If I get 10K on the rears of my Dunlops, I'm perfectly happy. Then again, I don't look to get any more out of them...
Looks like I will have to check out Hankook for more grip and more life. That would make the wife happy on at least one point of owning a Z-Car.
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The TBI adaptor is barely protuberant. The real restriction is the venturi where the needle was. Looking at it I think that if I carve it out I will need to sleeve it in some way because I will go past the thickness of this part at this very location.
Excellent news, since I already have carbs with that venturi cut out! My friend has a HAAS machining center (er...several actually) and machined them out for me. If you use devcon or other epoxy filler on the body of the carb (or welding it Heliarc/TIG) in the areas of the die-cast where it will cut through to the outside of the body when bored, you can do it in one operation. On my 73's it was in the float bowl only, so I used epoxy as it was easy.
Since it's not protruding far, that means I can run my Bosch Injector underneath the carb, and his TBI setup from the dome area, and do a direct comparison to the difference in performance and fueling that is needed with each different injector type and position!
I had done a 'bosch underneath' setup on another car, but it wasn't firing in the right direction, and we ended up putting the suction piston in to even get it running off-idle properly.
It looks like Rick may have confirmed my hypoithesis that you have to fire at the throttle plate to make this application work.
Just for the record, my Chevrolet Truck with the factory TBI setup takes some cranking to fire it off, it's not like port injection where it goes right off first thing in the morning. But it's usually good on restarts.
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Aziza, how went the Canyon Drive and Viewing on Sunday????
i was moving railroad ties and had a Z on jackstands for a total brake rework...which is still not completed...
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With the technology advancement rate, it's going to be rendered moot through OEM advancements in ECU. They already have remote monitoring provisions in OBD3, and with some high line cars the ability exists already to disable the vehicle through remote means (say you miss a lease payment...)
All that needs to be done is the car with an ECU lock gets stolen, and the owner notifies the OEM branch that is set up to liason with Law Enforcement, and they can get a cel-phone location fix, and disable the car as it's being driven.
I don't see a 'need' for it, it was the Governmental Mandates that set up the OBD "Remote Monitoring" provisions in the protocols for 'future use'...what that 'future use' is, remains to be determined. But for me? I don't see any 'need' for it whatsoever.
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You will be assimilated...
BORG=WOLF
????
The parallels are too startling to deny!
LOL
fender mirror install
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
There was a NISMO offered Stainless Steel Version of the S30 mirror that was in all ways identical to what came on my Showa 50 S30 I had in Japan. Identical I actually interchanged parts between the matte black units I had while trying to get my other matte parts 'reblacked' and still drive the car.
What is still available, I don't know, but some years ago NISMO USA was clearing out those chrome (stainless steel?) mirrors for $79 a pair...which was about half the cost of a pair of matte units ordered through normal channels!
As for using different models mirrors on the car, as long as you get them in the right positions, I can't fathom why they couldn't be adjusted to work and give the right view. Are you loosening the screw at the front of the 'bullett' to allow the mirror to move freely? Because of the distance, only a small movement will totally change your view. That should be WELL within the range of normal adjustment with the screw loosened.