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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

  1. Woah! Yeah, I guess!

     

    You guys hang with Pete Skelton and Joe Geronomiller from 18EMS?

     

    Man, Pete came on to the dorm one day after lifting and stole two slices of pizza off the CQ's table...someone had laced them with Magic Mushrooms. That was not a fun afternoon in Pete's room trying to hold him down!

     

    Ahhh, youth...

  2. You got it rags!

     

    DO NOT do an MC swap without swapping the lines. You also have to extend the pushrod from the 71 and earlier booster 10-15mm to depress the M/C from a later model (or was it shorten...at any rate the pushrod has to be adjusted)

     

    If you buy a rebuilt 72-78 Booster, and later M/C along with the pre-bent 72-78 lines from the M/C to the switch on the frame rail, you make a nice quick swap.

     

    Bending those straight lines from the early cars is a bear!

     

    My P.O. decided to arbitrarily change the hydraulic routing on my 73 because he didn't "like the look of the crossed lines"...that made for an interesting first brake application after I got the car running. That one had me scratching my head for a while to figure out what happened, since prior to that point I'd only owned 70's and 71's...and the 'Lines looked right to me!'

     

    DOH!

  3. Yes, with a qualification...

     

    What is the drop height of the conversion piece he made that houses the GM TBI Injector? That is, how big of an opening is there remaining compared to a 46mm open tube?

     

    I know the 46mm hole will flow (roughly) 740cfm (from memory) and two will have a potential of twice that. Most Triples are choked down to around 6 34mm holes, but have to operate at a higher delta-P due to siphoning fuel from the bowl, so they are usually around the 1100-1300cfm range for flow.

     

    Since EFI is measured at a lower restriction, the holes 'flow more' than carburettors.

     

    Our 45mm Carbs netted 40 less HP at 750 less RPMs than the 45mm ITBs. To run that kind of power we would have had to go to 55mm Triples (using 45 mm chokes to function!)

     

    Depending on which injectors you use from GM's parts supply, there should be FAR more fuel than you will ever need. Two injectors are all that are on my 7.4L tow vehicle, and that is well over 150HP. The 7.4's run an elevated fuel pressure, closer to 30psi than the normal TBI pressure of 20 or so.

     

    Show us photos again. I miss seeing the parts on the car. I have to drop him a line and see the progress on the other SU adapters. I sent him 52# worth of every Datsun SU ever produced to get the patterns made and set up for sale. That was a year ago. I think you ended up getting the first set off his production line after I sent in the carbs for samples!

     

    More importantly, how does it RUN NOW?!?!?!?!?!

  4. OBX is now offering the 'lifetime warranty' hook as well, predicated on the condition the diffy unit is not disassembled.

     

    With a warranty, regardless of application, it takes a step up in the competiton.

     

    Loosing your car for a time while the replacement is coming can suck, but that would be the same with Quaife or OBX.

     

    My 73 with a conventional LSD also has had issues with the rear cover bolts coming loose no matter what I seem to do to it. Maybe the 265's out back and my right foot have something to do with it...

  5. Last I had contact with him directly was in 91-92 when I had to get my car (er...his car) smogged!

     

    What a cluster...

     

    At that time he was back to Kadena, and planning on being there for a while. I never actually met him face-to-face! Only on the phone. He had sold the car during the divorce, and I got it from the guy who was going to take it to the P.I. and do a V8 Conversion on it. He couldn't get it running, and so the rest is history...

     

    I ended up finding out who's car it was from Clyde Wood (Clyde Tomoyose) who was working up at the Torii Station Auto Hobby Shop at the time, and who had the pistons made for that engine at his dad's shop down in Naha when Roger was on the island in 81 (I think). When he returned from Nellis, he parked the car around the corner from my house off base for years. Maybe he was living out in Morgan Manor, I don't quite know. Anyway, when it came time for registration (I got popped for running around on the Japanese plates by the CHP 2 years after getting it to California...) I got in touch with him via phone for some 'documentation'.

     

    If you have ANY photos of Roger, or his car (the Blue Z with the Headlights in the Hood) let me know, I would KILL to have some 'period correct historical shots' from the car before I put the G-Nose and Whale Tail on it.

     

    I never thought to ask Roger for copies of any of his construction photos when he was having it built.

     

    Maybe I should start some internet searches to see what shows up, eh? You scratched my brain on that one. I would like some photos of the car's history before me!

     

    I digress...

  6. Actually I don't know what you are talking about. Did YOU read the thread. Someone stated that 'nobody said if they were JIC/AN'---but you did say you converted yours to AN.

     

    That leaves open the possibility that someone would think that WITHOUT CHANGING THE COOLER you can simply adapt to AN and run them as replacement lines. Not unless you do ALL the fittings to AN.

     

    You only stated you have to get a "new cooler" in your last post.

     

    I guess you finally read the whole thread and got the gist of it?

     

    I don't know why stock lines 'dont work in an S30'...they seem fine in my wife's 74 260Z-T conversion...

     

    As a review of the original post that precipitate the warning:

     

    "I ran mine with A/N adapters, was a 10m IIRC, might have been 12m, just take the banjo bolt to your local hydraulic fitting shop, you can get JIC adapters for much less than A/N "

     

    Absolutely right, no body saying they were the same as stock. Also no mention whatsoever that you need to replace the cooler, just a contention that you changed adapters...what other inference are we to draw from such a post? I guess warning people of the incompatibility is the wrong thing to do should someone misconstrue your post. Hence mine.

     

    If it's such a terrible transgression to inform people of a possible fitting incompatibility, I will remove all my 'useless' posts in this thread, under the understanding that this misleading post be removed as well, since it calls for M10, or M12, 'or something'...

     

    When in a glass house, consider heavily the need to throw stones.

  7. My buddy just bought (like within the past two weeks) a ZO6 (or was it a 5? do they have a ZO5? I'm not a corvette guy...) for $18K, I wouldn't bother importing one with later models of better performance going so cheap.

     

    The end-all is to have them send you photos of the driver's door jamb, and the emissions stickers under the hood. If the compliance sticker on the door jamb states FMVSS compliance, as well as EPA, then you can reimport it no problem.

     

    When I bought my 73Z off Roger Puffer (400MMS, Kadena AFB), that is all they looked for on rentry. And that allowed me to tick the 'complies' box on the importation form.

     

    There is some talk about the converter being punked for operating outside the USA with no unleaded being available, but that's not the case in the time frame that Corvette was used. Even then, they only required a statement to say the converter was replaced. There was no compliance test unless it was a LOCAL (read STATE) requirement.

     

    It's lying to the federal gubbmint, about a car...pffffft!

  8. I am not disputing a metal headgasket is harsh on your pistons when you detonate....but I don't think It makes that big of a difference. I busted three pistons running felpro gaskets, never once did I blow a gasket, ever.

     

    The big question I would have in that case is "Did you hear it detonate?"

     

    Was this on one engine, or several?

     

    I've run I don't know how many stock N/A L's and the HG always seems to blow before the pistons are done. Including the deadliest detonation there is: that which you don't hear!

     

    My experience with Turbo Builds like this is restricted to less than a dozen builds, much less than the N/A conversions I've done. But they seem to work the same as the N/A's in my experience, you can just boost slightly higher without 'hearing' the detonation.

     

    The parallel between what I've seen in my blown engines, and what KTM has posted in the past is startingly similar. When I saw his photo posts, I even think I pu up one-word posts: "Detonation"

     

    I would have to see your engine, that sounds strange for them to go bad like that unless someone previously did bad things, or you had already broken parts in there to begin with and the detonation you did just pushed it over the edge.

  9. The runner is an interesting swap. That works different than I would have thought, but my experience is in taking stuff from the Manifold runner. The MAP going screwy with the IAC is a good bit of information. It makes sense in retrospect.

     

    This is why I don't like IAC's. There really is no reason for them, but it does make the A/C easier than a fabricated Pulloff.

     

    Though, to play the Devil, no 'works rally car' would EVER have an IAC...it would have a fabricated zinc-coated bracket and a pneumatic pull-off!

     

    muahahahaha!

  10. Hell, I just got released from this site! I get to go home EARLY for once.

     

    And I have it on good authority that the parts have a lead time of 5-6 weeks ARO+ so that means no return for me before the second week in May, or more likely the first week of June.

     

    WOO HOO!

  11. Actually, Z-Ya, Webers and most other similar carbs can be tuned across the power range for partial throttle response and power. It's just that nobody is willing to pay for the time it takes to do that! Custom porting of emulsion tubes and then trial-and-error pulls and partial throttle runs...

     

    I have said it before, anybody who professes that 'carbs are easy' hasn't tuned one for competition!

     

    Our Weber Power Pulls were like felt-tipped marker sweeps on the dyno chart. The EFI was a bit...er...'notchy' with the same dyno settings (smoothing, etc.)

     

    As for engine variation---it exists. Engines produced with identical clearances WILL make different power. Sure, as you tighten clearances the variation should get smaller. Spec Racers are decidedly NOT what this discussion is about. They are PRODUCTION ENGINES and that is the POINT of the class. They have an accepted variation and the class lives within it. When someone wins too much, they tear it down or make him chage from a random pool of spec engines for the class.

     

    Wonder why they pick from a random pool of engines? Because statistically it spreads out the odds of the variation equally amongst contestants. Why? Because they know there will be engines in the lot making marginally more than others.

     

    But when you are not restricted by class rules (and E-P DOES have rules to comply with that a street engine does not...) then you by logic restrict the output of that engine.

     

    Any racing engine can make considerably less than it's street counterpart, simply from this restriction or that.

     

    EP Runs EFI, right?

  12. That's the standard Japanese Manifold that has been on sale in Japan for the past 39-40 years for the L-Series.

    Tomei makes quality pieces and is as you can see, dedicated to producing parts for out outdated engines long after the other people have stopped.

     

    Support your vendors!

  13. I'm with Z-Ya on gearbox reliability.

    Though in the same breath, for the exact same reason I've prepared some Sylvia KA/SR five speeds with the L-Engine front bellhousing section simply because finding the early model boxes (in low mileage good condition) is getting tougher even in SoCal.

     

    But those KA powered Sylvias are everywhere, and the tranny came in other models, so the swap is possible with several other models as well.

     

    So for me it was more of a function of being able to find late-model Sylvia boxes easier, so what the heck. Plus, you can get decent shifters for them to make the lever action very nice indeed.

     

    I've been sacrificing L-Series Four Speed Bellhousings now for some time in support of the effort!

     

    FYI, I've run over 40,000 miles (65,000 Km's) on my turbocharged L6 putting down between 275 and 350 to the rear wheels (which are 265's) and haven't had gearbox problems like you have.

     

    I'd second the thought on getting a different gearbox guy, as well as experimenting with different lubricants to lengthen balk-ring lifetime...and make sure the oil you are using is compatible with the brass rings---the GL5 has sulphur compounds in the oil formulation that EATS the brass synchros in short order. With as quickly you are going through them, this may be part of it as well. The DID make steel synchros for some of these boxes, but the days of finding them is long past.

     

    Good Luck, it's no fun when it keeps needing repair, and you're not really doing anything untoward with it.

     

    I run redline lubes in the tranny now. Before I ran both NEO and Amsoil. For racing, synthetics are preferred.

  14. I'm flying in from Qatar for MSA...

     

    Along with Frank 280ZX and his Dad (owns a 260Z 2+2, 280ZXT Eurospec, and a 77 Corvette) who will be flying in from Amsterdam.

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