Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Not scary in the least bit to me. It's a mail carrier's vehicle, and anything done in that conversion can easily be undone. If the price is right...
Personally, I'd go for the Jeep with the CNG engine since I can fill 5 miles from my house, and they go about 250 miles on a fillup. Perfect!
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I didn't have a dyno access until almost 5 years after I set it up.
Then it was more for a power check than anything else. Go rich and work backwards and don't get greedy.
I know people in the Mid-20's, but you can make things go boom if you run a metal headgasket---much quicker than if you run something like a Fel-Pro that will let go when you detonate.
Those metal head gaskets are great, but not for pistons!
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This pulsing is common in ITB's because you have such a strong vacuum signal. Usually it's more of an issue when it's in a manifold runner, and not when it's vacuum-logged.
Use a small engine fuel filter, one for a Briggs and Stratton. The paper element and small capacitance of the filter housing (these things are about the size of a nickel or a quarter, and looks like a vacuum chack valve that nissan used) will smooth it out. There is talk waaaay back during the original builds of the MS on how to combat that pulsing. Some use a carburettor jet, but the little filter works well and many people have used it.
The pulsations will make the fuel jump around, and you should work to get it slightly smoother than what it is so the computer is not correcting for such a big consistent map jump.
You DO NOT want a 'big' reservoir! You want something that allows the MAP to be read relatively close to the actual manifold pressure. The filter or a small orifice in the MAP sensing line (or simply using a longer line with a couple of loops to add volume) can dampen it out.
But like I said, one of those small, plastic, gravity feed fuel filters for a Briggs and Stratton or even a weed whacker will work wonders on that pulsing.
Keeps intake backfire smudge out of the MAP sensor, as well as any condensation that may accumulate as well.
What injectors did you end up using sizewise again? I see you ran 6200 rpms, and the PW max was 73%, that seems pretty close on sizing, not much room for any breathing improvements and you will be out of injector! And your engine is STOCK now!
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I'm 24 now, I feel like maybe I'm too old to start working on an ME degree... If I could go back, the things I would change
Curiously, after 5 years in the USAF, I was 25 working a full time job when the 'engineering' portion of the training started. UofMD Asian Division had great 'asian studies' cirricula, but not a damn thing towards Engineering.
Business Management, Asian Studies, clerical stuff mostly.
I had to get out and get back to the USA to continue study in earnest.
24 is not 'too old'...
Not by a long shot. My bud is partner in a CE firm in Orange County now, and his degree was not completed (took 8 years working on it after work) till he was nearly 40. He complained that he took a cut in pay initially because as a skilled CAD Drafstman, as well as being able to do the manual revisions to older drawings, he brought down good coin.
But once he made partner...
So no, 24 is not 'too old'!
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The SU is boost irrelevant. Blowing air through them works the same as drawing air though them. They will react similarly.
The largest problem you will have is sealing the fuel system.
You have to revent the bowls. The brass floats in many SU's will collapse at 8-10psi. The old plastic floats may do similar. There are no composite composition floats avaialbe for SU's that I know of, so that is the upper level of pressure.
If the fuel transfer hose doesn't blow apart first...
Leaks of fuel/air at the jet. Hard sealing of the throttle shafts blowing fuel/air mix under boost. Heating of the bodies if not intercooled. And adding an intercooler for a 7psi system seems a waste of time and added complexity.
It's a lot of work....and then throw in the modulation rings for float bowl differential to give more enrichment on-boost so you still have a relatively normal taper for N/A operation (which is more than you will think)...
It's not the route I'd take. Neither is a blowthrough Mikuini/Dellorto... but oh well.
"Some things you got to learn for yourself." Masochisim is not illegal! LOL
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I have run 21 psi on a stock 77 JDM N/A Block for over 40K miles since 1989.
Don't Detonate.
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A lathe, indexing head, and milling attachment with a very small mill is your friend in this endeavour! If you choose to make your own, and fit it to a distributor housing, that is!
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Given residency has come up, given high velocity, a thicker one pass cooler will work (think vortech cooler setup).
For instance, the A/C core of a 1974 Chevrolet Impala will satisfactorily cool a 300HP engine with an air velocity through it from around 140mph. Slower than that, you need a much larger cooler. But the A/C core will cool that engine just fine with that speed through that dense core very well.
Looking at evaporator cores as a one-pass affair, and then properly ducting the airflow through it properly will pay dividends.
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Actually many states use 7 numbers/letters.
CA has original plates and numbers that changed every five years or so.
From 55 or 56 to 62 the plates were yellow with black numbers (6 Digits)
From 63 to 69 or so the plates were black with yellow numbers (6 Digits)
From 70 to maybe 78 or 79 they were blue with yellow (7 digits)
Then they went white with blue numbers and various backgrounds (7 digits)
So you could have a 63 series plate with ROH685, and a 56 series plate with the same number.
But when you try to get numbers issued for 'year of issue' plates (meaning putting blue plates on a 70 Z for instance) they check for the registration, and if it's not in use, and not been used for the past 5 years...you can register the car with that set of plates.
The only discussion is the DMV needs to get their stuff straight and give you some new plates for free since it's causing a problem. Press it to a supervisor to make it happen. No need to pay anything, it's their mess-up.
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Work in the Technical Services Department of a Centrifugal Compressor Manufacturer. When not in the field, I answer technical problems for customers. This can deal anywhere from specifying pumps and systems to rework and redesign of our machine or our machine's systems to conform to the customer's needs.
Really, this happens in the field during commissioning a lot of the time. Meaning I'm at a site, halfway across the world with nobody else but myself to figure it out and tell them what to do to fix the problem. Sure, I get a lot of support if I need it... but this stuff always comes up when it's midnight, or the weekend back at the factory and nobody is around to do anything for some time...and the answer/solution is needed now.
I could not work in the Engineering Department. I have a real problem coming into the office at 8am and sitting in front of the computer in a cubicle doing drawings or searching specs all day. Every day. In business casual. Argh...
I come in to the 'office' which may be a sea container, and usually am in jeans and a denim shirt. I get to go out and supervise construction, all the way to commissioning and startup of the machine and handover to the customer (and training them to use it, and in some cases repair or overhaul it.)
It doesn't involve working on guns, cars, or planes...but I've used all three in the performance of my job within the last 6 months!
Does that count?
And occasionally, I get to go to arctic places like SHO and be abused by the locals...but that was with a different compressor company (North Slope of Alaska has the largest concentration of Atlas Copco ZR machines in continental North America. Puerto Rico is #2...) Every wellhead has one or two... But that job was a long way down the feeding chain from where I am now.
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From what I've seen the waveforms are identical regardless of the signalling medium.
The square wave off the optical CAS is the same as the shaped waveform off the magnetic pickup CAS on the front of the engine.
It's not critical, really, it's a trailing or leading edge trigger and most functions work on trigger return anyway.
Gaps are not as important as how many are there. You can make the EXACT same waveform off a flywheel with 2" thick raised nubs as you do with an optical setup running 2" diameter and laser cut slots.
Curiously, as speed increases the larger flywheel sensors tend to be more accurate due to the resolution.
using the small chopper wheel in the distributor just wasn't reliable above 8500 rpm in our TEC2 Bonneville car, while the larger wheel on the pulley worked well above 9500...
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I've done it numerous times. It makes for easy removal and fairly quick as well.
If you are planning on doing engine bay cosmetics, and have a 2x4 or 4x4 cradle made up to roll it all out in one piece once it's dropped, it makes it easier. Same as the newer imports.
I last did this on a 77 280Z where I was salvaging the engine/transmission/front suspension. The rear came out after the whole front was removed. Then, it got cut up with a sawzall and a torch...
But you can do it for normal repairs as well. Heck, if you leave the struts hanging, with the calipers attached, you can make it quicker by just removing the two bottom strut bolts, and the T/C rod bolts...you just let the strut assemblies and brakes hang...unopened, ready for reinstall.
It works for me.
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I puked squid tentacles, baby octapus, and raw fish out the right rear window of a car that looked exactly like the cream coloured one with the trailer attached!
That car had an L28 with Triples and a Five Speed conversion eventually...yeah, it burned up clutches something fierce when you tried to drag race it.
I think there is a reason the saloons got totally different intake manifolds later in the production run---the standard manifold just wasn't cutting it.
And in each instance, the runners went smaller, not larger. It was for the application as those manifolds never appeared in any Z-Car from the factory. Only the heavier bodied saloon cars and behemoths I used to call 'Japanese Impalas'
That cream car have the rear seat radio option, where the back seat passengers could listen to a different station than those in the front? Talk about 'made for Taxi Service!' LOL
Yeah, those are some memories there! Man that octopus was vile coming back out...
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yes, the ford lightning has the bosch water pump you will likely want to use for circulation of the coolant
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Sunrise in Glendale does MS installs.
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People Move On. Such is life. Car was nice, though!
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IF you really want loud, try a dual megaphone setup:
This car is loud, painfully loud. It is basically a 6-3-2 header, with dual pipes running back to flared tips. No mufflers. Not recommended for the street.
Pete
I didn't think it was that objectionable. I thought it sounded quite good. But to correct the statement of the duals...if that still has the same exhaust on it that it had in Syracyse it merges to a single, then back out to a double near the rear....
It had a distinctively different note than the dual megaphones originally on the vehicle, which is similar to the sound in the "Bad Day at El Mirage" You-Tube Video.
Though that is in-car, and done through a terrible microphone...
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Jon,
I don't think that the carbs will limit peak power (and that's what we are talking about here). Basically that is all you can tune with carbs. EFI will get you a consistent AFR across all RPM and loads (if tuned correctly). You can't do that with a carb, but you can tune for peak power. I can't imagine that a single TB EFI intake can flow more air than a set of Mikunis or Webers.
Pete
This would come under my definition of 'performance maximization'...
Recall we gained 40HP on the Bonneville car by swapping to EFI and ITBs from identically sized Weber DCOE's. Even our dyno operator said it "You could have gotten that power with 55 Webers, but you wouldn't have had the reliability without the crankfired igniton."
It's all how you define tweaks and polishing. I never said idiots. I said some people just don't think any variation from standard assembly tolerances is acceptable. We put the Bonneville engine together in a Home Garage in Clairmont. It was covered with a Hefty Bag when we left for the evening. This stuff isn't rocket science, but there may be a bit of art to it.
If you are searching for a concrete quantification or scientific explanation, I proffer you won't get one. That would put his setup into a Factory Assembly Manual mode---the next guy goes and follows all the exact same dimensions (lets say to 5 decimal places, for argument), follows the same component list, and then yields 20, 30, 40 HP less.
How do you explain it?
Many of these EP gurus you speak of, do they punch out the engine and warranty how much power it will make before putting it on the dyno? Unlikely, they will give you a 'range' and if it's not up to their liking, it comes back apart. If it is, they go 'whew' and send you the bill.
But until it goes on the dyno, even knowing every component is what it's supposed to be...they don't know for sure till it runs!
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There is ALWAYS and a$$hole driving out there that distinguishes himself, TRUST ME!
If you aren't an idiot driving, and follow the spirit of the rules, you won't need to fear the 'People's Curse'.
If you think these cars only cost $500, I've got a bridge in Ney York for sale as well....
At Thunderhill you are going well over 100 mph (at least we were!) into Turn 1. If you think I'm getting into a car with a substandard roll cage, or without GOOD BRAKES AND TIRES you're NUTS! Those items, as well as many others are considered 'safety items' and are not costed under the $500 cap.
When we took our "Brown Turd" in for Judging, they had NO PROBLEM believing it was under the $500 cap. Then again, I bought 6 Z Cars for $500, so even if I valued it at the Full $83.33 it was technically worth, and simply transferred good parts off the other cars for a 'fractional value' we would STILL be under $500.
If we documented the SALE of parts off the other cars for the stuff we didn't use, and that people paid us for...there is NO WAY they would believe us!
Matter of fact, I'm selling a dash and a filler neck off one we cut up already...for a whopping $50! My son laughed when I told him how much someone was paying for them. "Get it out of the yard!" was more my line of thinking.... Yeah, for what we sold fenders and crap for, we would be UP a terrible amount. And I still have TWO chassis left after trashing the first car the first year, and prepping #2, and cutting up the 'partial car' for parts sales and donor pieces.
hell, we still got the fenders from "Turd One" on the current car (as well as the doors!). The legend lives on. How's that for interchangable parts???
When you run the race in a manner that says "WE got a real race car here" and also "we like to make contact and bump other people regularly" that usually gets you the curse. If you are fast, and safe...people may hate you, but likely they won't be vindictive.
Then again...you never know!
That's the WHOLE point!
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Oh, and our zeds are rarer, and worth more (and cooler
)So someone coming with several containers of Zed's (four of which are RHD already) might have a ready income source should they choose to emigrate.....
Hmmmmmmmmm:hijack:
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Some people get 147 to the rear wheels on an L28 stock build, and the engine runs out of steam at 5600.
Others make considerably more using the EXACT SAME components and have a power peak at 6500.
It's all in attention to detail, and biasing things to work properly. A lot of people have no idea what or how things actually work together inside and engine---and think 'assembly is assembly' and put components together then wonder why they are 'down on power' compared to the same components someone else assembled. Worse yet, they think that the factory settings are the ONLY way to assemble the engine. And if you do it that way, likely you will have very close to a stock engine. But if you know where to move this, and realign that....where to polish and clearance, where to rin a tighter clearance...all those little things can add up cumulatively.
Sometimes the differences can be STARK.
Sure, dyno differences can account for some of it, but I have had people get out of their cars and start swearing at me because my rat-trap POS 75 2+2 is a FULL SECOND FASTER consistently in the 1/4 mile than their pristine 75 Coupe with headers, big throat throttle body, performance exhaust, blah blah blah... Guy started swearing at me and claiming there was NO WAY I was that fast without a CAM in it!
We are talking a consistent 15.45-15.50 1/4 mile against his 16.45-16.67 times.
2695# on my car, at a trap speed of something like 89mph. I got the slips somewhere.
"It's not possible"...yet it occurs.
And if you saw the car (some here have at the various National Conventions) you would swear to if my rattle-trap POS was a second faster than your shiny sporty Coupe! Who needs shiny paint? Unless I'm at Bonneville, I don't polish nothing! LOL
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"I'm starting to have doubts, please don't take it personally... "
Doubt all you will, the cam in the Bonneville engine that peaks at 8250rpms (and the exact same cam in a 2.0 peaks at just under 9K...) is FAR 'smaller' than many 'experts' say we 'need' to make the kind of power we did with it as well. And the 2.0 has FAR less compression than we ran in the 2.8, simply from a function of the small dome on the piston not being able to adequately fill the L28 sized combustion chamber of the head!
Changing the dyno may change the peak point, but the shape and where the power is will remain the same.
I'd have to agree with MonZster that many L's have a lot more cam than they 'need' to make the power, and the difference really is in preparation more than what specific 'list of components' you assemble.
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Fitch showed how to use bathroom scales to weigh a car.
Simply machines like lever work in reverse as well as when amplifing force...
Perhaps the original request was so vague as to confound anyone wanting to answer? He mentions platform and suspension spring scales, yet not what he wants to measure, other than the approximate weight.
I guess driving across a tuck scale with a visible display with the item in the car and not in the car is just too much work, so I'm all out of ideas. It's just outside 'bathroom scale' range...
I mean, old platform scales with weights are all over the place. Newer uncertified for trade units that don't have certified load cels in them are a dime a dozen.
Frequency of the items needing to be weighed, accuracy required, and size of said items all play into getting a proper 'cheap' scale scoped properly.
I mean, a 250# bathroom scale and appropriate 2:1 reduction lever is all that is needed to have decent accuracy to 500# with little investment at all.
But it's not something that you want to bundle your Coke with out of Medellein....they get testy if you short the shipments. Intentionally or not!
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Mmmmmmm....
M-POWAH!
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How can I tell if my 240z headlamp covers are original NOS or repro? pics attached...
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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They look like Nissan units. Really the only way to tell is remove them and check the ring construction. Or at least remove a screw. They should be M5 machine screws, and not oval headed stainless steel sheetmetal screws.
Then again, it wouldn't be the first time I saw OEM rings held on with the oval-headed screws because someone didn't want to mount the proper nutplates on the light bucket...
The ring construction will tell. Alan Thomas posted some photos someplace about it. No doubt if you contact him he can shoot you them to assist in determining their build origin.
Will this car be at the MSA West Coast Nationals April 24,25, 26th?