Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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It's not a question of "Rabidity" at all. It's a matter of how you value your time. I literally can't afford to wake up and B.S. around at 2AM for an auction ending then. I know what I want to bid, and no sense telegraphing that I'm interested until the very last second.
It's far easier for me to see it, enter it, and forget about it till it notifies me I have to pay for it. I pay for it, I await delivery. I take delivery, it's mine. No drama, no associated crap to worry about.
Either you want it or you don't. I don't have the time or inclination to watch the bidding process. What does 'manual bidding' do to forward your goal of gaining the item. If it can be done automatically, why not? Less chance of malfunctions, missed keys, slow connections, any number of reasons to AVOID manual entry. Why NOT go with the most efficient way to bid?
Manual Bidders?
Those that do are the ones I would consider 'rabid'---there is something there that they need to have satiated.
Too much drama for me. I want it, I set my bid, and if I get it, fine. If not, oh well. nothing Rabid about it at all. Just don't have the time to waste.
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I was inside track back in the late 80's early 90's. You get a different catalog with a lot of their refurb stuff at a discounted price.
unless you are buying a lot of stuff, careful shopping on the catalogs and website can net you similar savings.
I have noticed items with the same SKU on the cover at one price, and the same SKU with a different suffix inside the catalog for 2X as much!
It pays to read carefully...
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The best way is to let idle synch be handled by your IAC on the log.
After that, have a throttle stop to open you throttles slightly (1500 to 2500 rpms) and use something like the EMPI UNIVERSAL PRO-SYNC to set throttle opened synch.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/intake/intakeacc.htm
This does not depend on the flow restriction to get a reading like the Uni-Synch does, so you can keep the engine at a set speed and adjust each linkage to get the same off-idle flow through each barrel. Then set your limit stop on the linkage to prevent overtravel during WOT. The idle snaps shut to fully closed with idle airflow coming through the IAC and your Manifold Logs.
This is how we set up the TWM setup on the Bonneville Car.
I hate the UniSynch because of the way it works. I prefer the Weber Tool, or the equvalent sold through JC Whitney (Scheyler Carb Synchroniser).
(For the Record, when I bought this EXACT same tool from JCW in 1985, I paid as much as they say 'you save' on their current price! And the second review of hte product is priceless---35 years of ownership!?!?!, I'm thinking I may get the same paranoia myself! I thought I had mine for a while!!! I knew they were availabe in the catalog for A WHILE before I bought mine.)
You 'could' do it with a Uni-Synch, Far easier at idle than off-idle. The ability to check off-idle synch and adjust linkage length to equalize flow with the Weber Style is awesome.
Quick, too!
And if you didn't notice, you could buy two or three of these for the cost of a single manometer style. Check Demon Tweeks in Wrexham Wales for a Gunson or equivalent plastic manometer carb synchroniser. I bought one there last pilgrimage to their store, ran across it in my 'track case' while cleaning last week! I don't think it was 57 Pounds Sterling!
The manometers are nice for idle flow, you can actually make one with six tubes as easily as you buy one that you will have to fudge. Or buy two of the four cylinder models and manifold them into one tool. That way when you make your setup for the SBC replacement after the tragic explosion following over-rev of your L-Series, you already have the tool to synch it's custom-cast ITB setup...
Not the one I got, but leave it to Demon Tweeks to have absolutely EVERYTHING in the store you could possibly want. Check the "options" tab, they have 'six carb' click on it! Only 123.31 pounds sterling. A mere pittance more compared to the 99 pounds asked by those other ruffians. Mere farthings, sir. Mere Farthings!
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MCYCLE&pcode=DAV62006
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The oil IS an issue. EVERYBODY is experiencing it both import and domestics.
To the question of 'is there such a thing as 'too much zinc'?
Absolutely. Hence the change in formulation for MODERN cars. The zinc poisioned catalysts. The Mobil Blackstar had a lot of Zing and Phosphorous.
For a car with no catalyst on it...no MODERN catalyst (the older catalysts were working on different things and didn't 'have' to last 100K miles, though many do well more than that) then the point where spark plug deposits become an issue is a point where 'there is too much additive'...
Those of us old enough to remember working on engines run forever on Leaded Gasoline will remember religiously cleaning spark plugs from deposits in the oil and gasoline. Lead Fouling on the plug would bridge the gap and misfire the cylinder. Bad ring seal caused oil deposits from unburned leftovers...
Unless you dope to that high a level (and have bad ring seal to boot) I doubt you will run into a 'too much' situation.
Frankly, the more relevant question to me would be 'how much do I need'---to the point, what level of expensive aftermarket additive to I need to add to modern oils to provide the same level of protection that was provided by the previous generation of non-zinc-depleted oils.
To batch the oil to that level, AND NOT FURTHER is likely the most economical way to do it. I doubt MORE will increase your protection, likely it will just cause other problems. The key is to add 'just enough and not any more' so you get the protection you need.
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"Dammint Hank! Take me to go git Santy-Anny's wooden leg!"
"Remember the Alamo"---It's like Cinco De Mayo for Mexicans: The celebration of a great DEFEAT against their 'colonial opressors' the Spanish. A battle they ultimately won.
You Texans aren't so much different than your brothers to the South in that Respect. Perhaps that is why they call it 'Tex-Mex'!
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I know several times I have had my snipe 'bumped' to an odd figure (well below my max) by someone trying to 'cheap snipe' in the last 5 seconds.
Coming back and watching it all end is a PITA. Several times I've been the 'highest bidder' but still below reserve, and I've contacted the seller with a 'buy it now' offer for multiple parts where they give them all to me well below their individual reserves, near what I originally was 'high bid below reserve'.
I couldn't get, say, an 8# HKS Flywheel for $250 because reserve or Buy it Now was 350, but I did get THREE of them for $750.
That, obviously stated, is if you have the $750 to spend on three flywheels you know will sit for some years to come because you only really need one...
THIS is why I bought 40 Foot Locking Sea Containers for my property! LOL
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I believe the SR20 Swaps the guys are doing include the transmission.
The packages are available for the 240SX guys cheap enough. Like I said, Les can talk about this stuff half in the bag and swilling a beer hanging upside down from the two-post lift in his shop and do it from memory. He's got a veritable Roadster Factory down there. If it can be stuffed in a Roadster, he knows about it!
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Hey guys, Just jumping on here, I operate a laser that does the Lasik, Customvue as well. I have been doing it for over 3 years and have done over 4000 cases to date. I have seen fantastic results from Lasik and had my daughters eyes done 2 years ago. 20/20 since for her.
To be honest, the guy I talked to back east told me to check out the TECHNICIAN OPERATING THE MACHINE more than the doctor!
He rather frankly said " I just make sure your a good canidate, the guy operating the machine and the software is what will do the work! "
Basically they are along for the ride...the man posting above is the guy who actually DOES the work...and even then...it's the machine doing the work for the most part. I'm sure he can go into the tehcnical details about targeting adn setting up the patient, etc...
But I agree, if there are issues DON'T WAIT! And basically that was what the Doc back east said: "I'm there if there's a problem, that's when you need the doctor. And that's where tens of thousands of eyes done comes into play. The more he does, the more complications he's seen, and the better off he will be to handle them in the best way."
Don't wait, get to the doctor---early treatment gets things from getting worse. If you think there is an issue, and likely you may have one, get to the doctor ASAP. Don't wait for a perdetermined interval. Which is one of the things the doc that screened me told me as well---if you think you have a problem, come see us right away. The longer you wait, the harder it will be to correct if something has gone wrong.
Good Luck!
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Yep, them are those!
LOL
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The rockers for a 2+2 would be the same die, only extended the requisite ammount. Discount tool and die setting...
Actually, now that I think about it, most 2+2's only rot in the back and front of the rocker. I've never done it, I've always done the whole panel, but technically you could cut up the ends of a coupe rocker and repair the ends of a damaged 2+2 rocker and have it cost nothing more in materials than the whole rocker.
Come to think on it, my 75 2+2 could use that treatment.... it's a US spec model so the repairs on it to be 'historically correct' are not so strenuous.
I guess something good came of this discussion after all! i'd not considered going that route till just this second...
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Because the hole is in a different place on a 70 260Z than in a 74 260Z , plus the shifter rod is not straight, but curved.
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"I have people, in places, who know things!"
LOL
That, aside from the fact that I have the original production floor inspection drawings for the pressure-cast 2001 Skyline wheels sitting in my stash of stuff. I snagged them while working at the place and recognizing the wheels as they were passing me coming out of the powder coater oven. Some's firsthand, somes from trusted sources. I don't think the procedure has changed in only 15 or so years. In fact, it's probably gotten worse since they have boondoggled on a couple that showed where enthusiasts loved the car, but they missed their mark in the target marketing. "Oops!"
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Crow has been eaten by her at times as well: "You can't bring any more cars into this yard unless one leaves!"
Several months later, sheepishly she approaches me:
"Er, someone wants to give us a Fairlady ZX, and I kind of want it as a driver..."
Well, what happened to 'one comes in one leaves'?
"Er...well, we will have to suspend that rule because I found this one!"
Oh, Ho! So it's different when it's your found-for-free Z that you want to 'clutter up the back yard' with, is it?
I think at that point she made the female equivalent of Homer Simpson's "D'OH!" and I continued:
Hey, have them take some pictures and send them to me, I don't really want a ZX around wasting space if I'm not going to get any parts off it. I need to see it before I'll go get it. (I feigned reluctance pretty well, but truth was I really didn't want it around. It's still a distraction. Meh!)
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Kicking the hornets' nest, Tony? Fer shame!
Kicking? Nah! Plugging them up and tossing them in a closed car to torture the occupants: ABSOLUTELY!
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Not a bad price for a unique body kit for an S30.
It could turn heads at a Toyota convention if you drove by and ignored them, then sideswiped a guardrail just for fun!
LOL
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Since you've seen them for $100 each NOS, you must know of some better sources...
Edit: Datsunspirit had a chrome set in Dec $250 NIB, Sold out.
You found the source...it was from there for a cost of $100 a mirror, NIB.
I bought them at their booth at the MSA West Coast Nationals...as did several other people. They brought a CASE of them and sold every set they came with.
Actually, I probably paid less than that, because I piled on so much stuff, he started throwing on magazines and collector car die cast book sets saying 'discount'...
I bought a lot. My wife would be a bit miffed. She found the mirrors, and put them IN HER CAR. When I went looking for them, I was asking her: "Did you see the new Nissan Mirrors I had in the white bag?"
Oh, those are in my car.
"Why are they there?"
I thought you bought them for me and were going to put them on because I hate the mirrors that are on it!
"Well, you didn't tell me you hated the mirrors, so NO, they are NOT for YOUR Z, they are for mine. If you want them, next year I'll pick up a couple more sets for yours and a spare set just in case. You DO know these are the Fairlady Fender Mirrors, not standard door mirrors, right?"
Ooooh! I like those fender mirrors, can't I have those on my car, you're not going to do anything to that old Fairlady any time soon. I can use the mirrors now!
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The Alamo?
Is that where Davey Crockett dressed up as a woman and hid under the bed? Before Santa Ana routed them soundly?
Or was that another historical figure?
Muahahahahhaa!
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Yeah, before I got to the photos I was thinking "U20" and when the block photo showed up, it was confirmed. Bores look to be 'oversize 5 specification' which would be the largest you could buy form Nissan.
Someone took Chevy Rod Bolts and pressed them into the stock Nissan Rods for durability and ease of refreshing the bottom end (see notes above on being known for beating the bearings to death...hence reusable rod bolts. Before ARP, there was the shanked-down Chevy 396 Bolt...)
Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista California should be able to give you some guidance on the engine, and parts.
As for the cam, check out the specifications for the 150HP U20 sold outside the USA, with Twin Mikuini 40PHH's...those numbers look familiar...
Many roadsters now sport SR20's...talk to Les, he's done several of those conversions for customers.
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If anybody commenting on the 'too cheap' pricing of the GT-R had any clue on actualy landed cost of vehicles and actual cost of production you would realize that the profits these vehicles generate would be lusted for by any other business model.
If that car has $10-15,000 in costs of materials/production/marketing and distribution into it...I'd be suprised. That would be a 'high end' estimate.
Back in the 80's the 'new mustang' was selling for 10-12K on a new model platform that cost $5K first year of production. After tooling amortization, the internal cost for a mustang before the (?)SN95 models (er...the body style they were selling in 94...) were retolled and produced was less than $2500. They were selling for a tad more than $14K at that time as well (annual price increases dontcha know?). There was a reason those LX's were so cheap---none of the specialty manufacturer content was in them, but the price never dipped much below 2X production cost the first year. nobody wondered how they could sell an LX for $10K in the first year of production, but the last year of production of the chassis, the car could be had for $8K?
A Hyundai Excel in 1985 on the docks with all landed costs involved was under $2000, and was selling for $6000+.
Automotive pricing is not based on cost of production. They get a 20-Group together, have them spend time with the preproduction prototype car well in advance of release, and part of their exit questionarie is 'How much do you think this car should sell for?'
Seeing the results of those polls, and the eventual selling price...it's erie how they are so close.
No GT-R is 'worth' what they are selling it for...it's ALL exorbitant markup. And the slavering Fan-Boys who dote on anything GT-R will keep it that way for a while. They know what the target market is, and that they will pay through the nose because they think they HAVE to in order to get it. Put the wrong 20 Group out there---say midwestern farmers, and you might get a GT-R pricing in the $20 to 25K range. Put in a Ferrari Club or PCA Member random sampling and you get a totally different result with an extra zero on the end.
If the base car was HALF the cost and the upgraded version priced according to the actual cost escalators involved (say $10K increase over Base, if that!)....maybe, MAYBE I'd consider it. Till then it's a lot of poofta poofery, IMO!
Those wheels don't cost $6000. If you knew what original 1999-2002 GT-R wheels cost coming out of the factory at Hayes Lemmerz in La Mirada you would shudder at the markup even used-wheel places were making on the take-offs!
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I put my original sender into the tank so I didn't have to 'interface' the wiring connector differently. The 260 has a funky pigtail and plug that was different than what was on it.
It's no big deal, you just drive the ring around with a small mallet and drift and it pops right out. The O-Ring is recompressible, they reseal nicely. Use the O-Ring that is in the best condition, they are the same far as I know.
With it out, you can have a good looks-see inside the tank directly as well...maybe they're crabs living in there or something...you never know till you look!
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Assymetric grind has everything to do with valvetrain stability. Port configuration has little to do with it.
Have you read the Racer Brown Articles? They are very good, and nothing has changed since they were written in the early 70's regarding cam airflow basics in relation to piston position, bore, etc...
For the cost of the cam...what? $180 list price? Is it that much to ask that you actually be a buyer to get the technical support?
I'd say read the Racer Brown Articles on DMS' webpage. JeffP was so impressed by them, he actually downloaded and printed them hardcopy so he could re-read them while indisposed, or when he had additional time to devot to resoaking the sage words.
It's kind of like the Bible...only practically applied to Camshaft Design!
Links to the aforementioned articles abound. They are still good far as I know.
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Ditto Pharoq... I had Antibiotic and steroid drops along with the artificial tears. The DR said 'when in doubt, drop' Anitbiotic was a week as I remember (till the bottle ran out) and the Steroids were similar duration. After that it was just the artificial tears.
The way he explained it, the tears are lubrication. If you aren't countinually lubricated the chance for scratches or tearing of the flap is more possible.
I can't remember specifically what he told me, but it seems the minimum was "Every half hour during waking hours minimum and more if you think you need it---when in doubt, add drops! They are cheap, and you can't hurt anything by using too much. But if you don't use enough you can screw up everything we are going to do here, and you don't want that!"
And I ditto his concern: If you think something is going on, DON'T WAIT! Call the guy and get down to it.
The 'rubbing of the eyes' is a symptom of dry eyes (as explained to me) --- that was another one: If you feel the urge to rub your eyes: DROPS! I was told outright DO NOT rub your eyes at ALL. That took some doing, concious thought because I was really used to rubbing them all the time. That was kind of when I realized how dry my eyes were. When I added the drops, I found my rubbing urges subsided completely.
Now, years later I rub my eyes again, but now I know 'it's time to get something to drink, or just go the heck to bed!'
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A gun show in Houston?
I don't think so. Seems to me Houston is more the PETA wine and tofu cheese set....
BWAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
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I like the sniping programs. I set my price and walk away. It notifies me if I won.
I have no buyers remorse for bidding up higher than I intended to after being caught up in some 'bidding war'...
You can get those mirrors for $100 each brandy new...
What did the used set go for?
Selling a handgun
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Yeah, Ocho de Mayo is not celebrated. Cinco is, but Ocho was the result.
Gives credence to 'win the battle, loose the war'...same engagement after regrouping. It was an Alamo-Style Rout, instigated to teach a lesson for the sneak attack of the fifth and as that link reminded us, instilled Maximillian as Emperor.
It's one of those times the French Endeared themselves using the Foreign Leigon to extend their 'diplomatic goals'...
And I just realized above I said 'spanish colonial oppressors' when I meant to say French! Big D'Oh for my mis-speak.
Doesn't change nuthin! I'm a-pokin' th' bear here! I'm pokin' th' bear!
'Sides, just cause I lives in th' Southern State of Californiee don't mean I'm from here! I was on the winning side of that war. Michigan.
"Last one out of the state, remember to turn out the lights!"
And them Homers... They's everywhere. Wan't "Brokeback Mountian" about some cowpokes on the drivin' trail outta Texas to Dodge? Cows wan't th' only thing they was drivin'!
"WE DIGRESS!"
LOL