Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The 1/4" line on the 'driver's side' is for the EVAP system. The 240's all used crankcase accumulation for EVAP control. That line went through a flow-diverter valve and either vented pressure from the tank to the crankcase through a fitting on the big line in the side of the block, or allowed makeup air from the filtered side of the air cleaner to go back to the tank to accomodate the dropping fuel level.
I have not investigated the 'vented cap' but if it was a one-way valve that may well be workable under EVAP restrictions at the time. It for sure could not let anything vent out. And from an early 71 240 I personally witnessed suck down the filler neck flat...it has to be the gas cap 'with ears' that has that kind of device present. I just don't know why they would bother with the EVAP Filtered Air setup if that was the case though---a one way diverter valve would have been much cheaper, as the makeup from the cap would be more than enough.
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Sad incompatibility!
The end mounts are for the 38MM SU, and the center is for a 45mm SU.
Who in the world cuts up a 38mm SSS manifold for such a conversion when the larger units are available?
the 510 crowd will howl over that decimation of a vintage part... I know I am.
Odd way to go about it for sure!
What gets me is 'Super Rare JDM' and then 'Fabricated' being in the advert.
The 'nice period modification for your 240' stands out as well. Seems to me period modification was either a 390 Holley, a Turbo Tom's Kit, or Triple Mikuinis...
And to think this guy is in Devore, not 20 minutes away. Out of principle I should go find him...
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JeffP and Bernard have been using Maxima ECUs from the VG30DET---which is coil on plug (I want to say 92-94).
Thing is you need to find an ECU that used only ONE O-2 sensor on a V-Engine, and that's pre OBD2.
If you want to put two sensors in a divorced set of header collectors, and then run a dual exhaust with four catalysts for full OBD capabilities....feel free, but I'm not up on the configuration of all that mid-level engineered stuff. I could tolerate the divorced headers and two O2 sensors, but the full on OBD quad sensor dual cat systems really won't be giving you anything more than what the earlier systems give you in terms of flexibility.
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This show was taken after feasting on 'dutch oven pizza' which is particularly decadent...
For some reason I can't find my fullsize photo anywhere... We're loading stripper clips of 7.62X39 and my son is wearing his 'Crazy Debbie's Fireworks' shirt.
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B.S. The car will always spin between 166 to 172. That is unless you add atleast 350lbs plus driver. You should get your spedo checked.
Hmmm, interesting claim. Anything to support that claim?
What is the F/GALT record at Bonneville currently, and what vehicle holds it, and at what speed?
With a screen name like that, I'm sure you will be able to easily answer the question...
Just for the record.
Obviously some of the above claims are B.S., but that statement bears investigation...
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I stopped buying air fittings there after a run of poorly fitting Amflo Knockoffs. Either they wouldn't fit into the standard Amflo fittings that were on my hoses already, or they leaked.
Sad, too, since I liked their brass fittings, if you dropped the tool by accident the brass fitting usually took the hit and you simply replaced it.
But I agree on deadblow hammers for sure! And stuff I'm going to abuse or convert to a 'special tool' sends me straight to HF for whatever I need.
Of course, Air Tools from there as well.
Since I already have a Swagelock 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2" tubing bender, cutter, & reamer (courtesy of a refitting job I had to do on the Hospital Ships Comfort and Mercy where tool cost was built into my quote...) I don't think about tubing benders the same any more. I ended up having brand-new Rigid Benders of the same sizes given to me, and they were put into my 'loaner' tool box---you know, the box that you lend out because you know likely you're never getting them back? The Swagelock Benders spoiled me for all other benders!!!
At around $247 each 10 years ago, they should!
On engine stands: buck up for the heavier-duty models when they go on sale. I have had a 750# for years, and just noticed that it seems to be sagging 'nose down' with the L28ET that has been hung on it for a while. Haven't checked into it closely yet, but it surprised me to see the different attitude compared to the others in the storage container.
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Niiice! Probably a bit more practical than the one I just picked up: 12X48 Cincinnati Milacron. Broke out one of the tie-down lugs in the sea container monkey-swinging it into position! At least you won't have to run a Phase Converter to use the thing...
But for the price, I couldn't turn this one down. But your 'price' sounds like a much better deal than even my find!
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The question for me is: "Where did you get those stainless steel injector clip bungs for the rail?"
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It sounds like you have formerly had an L20ET in there---that is the description of a CAS plug.
If you are converting to larger displacement N/A (about the same power as the L20ET) the computer from the L28 and wiring harness may be the quickest and easiest method to sort the wiring. It's a sub harness that detaches, and the interface between each of them should be easier to figure out.
Short of that, you would have to put the L20 Dizzy into the L28, including the drive spindle (drop the swaybar and oil pum---not a big deal) and then run the L20 Electronics complete. The injectors for an L20ET are the same as the injectors for an L28E, so that is no issue.
The L20E or L20ET electronics will fuel an L28 in stock N/A format with no issues whatsoever. I have done that swap in the past with good results. It's just omcinv the sensors and stuff from your L20 to the L28 so you have the correct inputs for your original computer. Big thing is the AFM---the L20ET will scale properly on an N/A L28 with no modification. If it was only an L20E, it would tend to run out of flow scaling a tad early, but it's workable, and a very torquey setup even wit hthe smaller AFM.
Good Luck!
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That will get a listing on some website in regards of 'things people eat that you never thought could be worse for them, but someone figured a way to combine them and make them both edible and worse for you!'
Then they will suggest that instead of eating it, you just pump a round in your head to save time!
LOL
I believe fettuccini alfredo ('Heart Attack on a Plate' as my wife says) has just been supplanted as something I could eat in front of my wife to shock her at my 'bad food consumption'....
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If you can't find pickled tripe in Texas, youi're not looking hard enough! I know it's available in ElPaso.
Now, Red Sulfite Dogs? Convert to the darkside and just mainline mercury instead....
LOL
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THe question is really is it 'improper metalurrgy' chosen by current manufacturers, or simply them choosing stuff that should have been O.K. but now isn't because the oil changed???
I know people 'in the old days' that always re-used their rocker arms, and NEVER had a problem.
The oils have changed. We know why they changed. It just gives less margin than oils of old IMO.
I would never have re-used rocker arms, but people did it all the time in Japan. Never lunched a cam.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....
Sure the I-Net exaggerates it. But it's a known shortfall of the 'new improved oils'....Adding ZDDP is now the equivalent of using 'new' rocker arms when you change the cam. It's something that wasn't formerly an issue, but 'it was a good idea just in case'...
For the price of the additive.....cost benefit analysis anyone?
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It seems to me the BMW stuff was available in fingernail polish size bottles... Apply with Q-Tip or the like sponge applicator...
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That is the old style VICTORIA BRITISH/LONG MOTOR COMPANY (now Black Dragon Automotive) NON-OEM windshield weatherstrip.
My 73 has the EXACT same issue at the corners. It does not leak, it just looks like hell. I don't know if it was the weatherstrip, or the way the weatherstrip was installed. I do know it was NOT a 'bad repair' to that section of the roof... that's a red herring in my cars case at least.
The ares should be smooth though---there has been bondo or something in that area to make it rough in the windshield recess at the roofline. It did not come that way from Nissan. They were very good on their fit and finish of panel joints.
Chances are it would be covered by a properly applied weatherstrip. You can use on of the 'bondo magnets' to check for thickness easy enough. What I would be concerned about is if it was a rust hole repair. Though in CA that should not be an issue.
My 73 and some 71's are the only windshields I've removed. I've not seen an early 70 window removed to know for sure that the uneven area in your photo was while they were 'learning' how to set up the joints. i doubt it, but there is that possibility.
How many 70's do you see for sale any more? And for how much?
In the grand scheme of things it's not a big deal in my book, it would not be a deal breaker on a $2500 car. Maybe on a $5000 car, but not for a lower price...
Anything needed to properly repair it is easily available.
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LOL
Righteous Chastisement!
LOL
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SHHHHHHHHHHH! The prices, names, and quantities were changed to protect the guilty!
And to give him some insight into good guys that will deal IF you make it worth their while. What may be listed as a 'reserve' may just be there to insure against the .99 cent snipe of a $500 part. And really, I can't blame anybody for doing that---you're selling it to get money for it, not simply give it away.
If I'd been up late and bidding...chances are I never would have made the second effort.
The way the internet/eby thing works, sniping is about the closest equivalent I can come to compared to making a face-to-face deal. I've been known to walk into a couple of guys arguing over price, blurt out what I'll pay and hand someone a card. Then walk away.
Some times, in person, I've had guys stop in mid sentence, go 'seriously'? and the sell me the part FOR LESS MONEY than the guy the were arguing with! They at that point would rather just get the money than haggle over it. Especially if the guy is a bottom-feeder. Not saying I'm not...or that I will make some astoundingly high offer (Eggers & Vicers mechanical FI ITB's notwithstanding)... But when someone WANTS to sell something to clear out his basement. Selling 3 for X and coming away with 3X is MUCH better in their eyes than arguing three times and getting X-$20, X+$50, and X/2 for the last one.
If you get the impression I hate drawn out negotiations, you're right. Either I (or you) want it or you don't. It's one of the reasons I don't say much at the Pomona Swapmeet. If I see something, and the guy floats a reasonable tender...I'll buy it. I don't like fishers, and I don't go fishing... most of the time. I won't argue with the guy to support my fishing claim. I can't understand getting upset about being sniped---if your bid wasn't the highest, then you aren't supposed to get the item! just because someone wants an item and puts a bid in higher than yours is no reason to get upset. I see it as bottom-feeders getting what they deserve! If you weren't cheap about it, you would have bid higher and gotten the item. Trying to get something cheap has it's perils. Everybody is trying to undercut the prices to their own benefit, what does that serve but greed? It's the reason many companies don't support the hobby, price shopping and the inability to let somene make a living. It is a double standard. If THEY don't get it as cheaply as possible, it's a Crime. If someone charges more than THEY think they should, it's a Crime. It's like people want subsidized everything. I think a lot of it is due to never having been on the other side of the counter and having to make a living trying to sell stuff at an honest profit to an ungrateful consumer marketplace.
My tow rig was a fishing expedition admittedly, but the seller seemed happy to have it out of his yard, and I get something that I 'need' for this or that. And I'm not paying an arm and a leg. But it was the same sort of deal. He'd been offered by separate buyers a total payment about $500 more than I was offering for the total, and showed up with cash because I said I would. That means I'm serious about my offer.
Nothing I hate more than someone who makes an offer and then won't back it up with a pruchase if you say 'yes'... They should be beaten.
I digress...
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Xander, you ricer bastard! Is that an aluminum radiator, or are you running the ricer Nonfunctional-Intercooler with that V8 now???
I know where that hood came from! LOL
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Some do it, some don't. The metuallurgy is not exact cam to cam, neither is cam grinder's treatments of the surface nor the aftermarket rockers.
While many are fine, many are not.
The additive is becoming an industry recommendation because that is the cheapest way to address it and insure good consistent results. Especially if you use different metallurgy.
Basically, the zinc makes the metalurgical issues moot as it doens't allow the forces to be present through it's characteristic lubrication.
Truthfully, the only real 'cam failures' I heard of on Nissan Cams were from outright spraybar plugging, or someone re-using old rocker arms on a new cam. And even then it was few and far between. I have heard of more cam failures in the last, say four years, than the previous 20 I have been associated with building L-Engines with reground cams.
Something changed. And the trail clearly points to Zinc. It's not to say if you have compatible metallurgy that you need zinc. But if you don't, or if you don't know, the chances are that the Zinc in there makes the metalurgical compoatibility of the individual components MUCH LESS FUSSY.
Which is what oil is supposed to do. How many guy floated piston pins on bored out rods without a bushing? I did. Steel on steel. No problem. Why bronze? if your oil is doing it's job, the metal you use for your bushing is practically irrelevant as long as it withstands the forces without crumbling. Same situation with cams and rockers: the oil is not longer doing what it once did, and exposing all the bad things that can happen due to stuff that 'in the good old days' was talked about and warned about but in practical application never really ammounted to much.
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So we have idle synchronization and off idle synchronization. In a perfect world the butterflies would be air tight and the idle would be handled with the base idle screw. there would be no need for idle synchronization. The off idle synchronization would be handled with the needle valves on the log.
Since I built this with a broad ax the butterflies are not perfect so I need a method of synchronizing them at idle. Or I need a way to get the butterflies as airtight as possible at idle.
I was running under the assumption that when the needle valves are set at idle then this would make all things equal the the off idle would follow suit.
Derek
Off idle synchronisation is a combination of how the barrel is flowing, and mechanical synchronisation of the throttle plates.
As stated above a 'slight' slop in the linkage allows minute variations throttle to throttle to be accomodated so all the throttle plates seal as tightly as practical.
Then, once they are seated (which should starve the engine or have it operating WELL below target idle speed... some people set them arbitrarily at 0.003" open with a feeler gauge on a bench-setup before installing them---that was a Carburettor specification and can not be applied to EFI. Frank 280ZX tried that with his ITBs and got an engine that was idling at 2500rpms! Since you have a balance log, all air admitted to the engine will (MUST) come from that point, and you can meter the air to each cylinder to get it at equal vacuum and work up to your desired idle speed (say 900rpms). EFI will fire and run this engine at 400rpms, without issue, so you work up from there to first get them all flowing correctly, then equally open them all in little bitty increments to raise the idle speed. Same as setting the idle stop screw on a carburettor when doing synch.
If you mechanically set the closed position with the linkages and not a throttle stop on each individual barrel, then from that point mechanical and off-idle synch should take care of itself.
Once the throttles are cracked more than maybe 0.030", you are TOTALLY dependent on the angle of the throttle plate for airflow synchronisation. nothing you can do with a bypass will have any great effect.
And truthfully, it's FAR more important to have off-idle synch correct, and make sure all the throttles reach full WOT at the same time than having a slight imperfection in idle synch.
The power imbalance off-idle is what will cause massive vibrations and break things (or cause cylinders to run rich or lean because of cylinder to cylinder airflow disparities).
Really, it takes more time to type this that it does to actually DO it! And once it's set, locktite everything with Wicking Green Loctite Threadlocker for Assembled Fasteners and you're done for the next 20 years of driving.
Or until one of those terribly overloaded heim joints starts exhibiting wear and has to be readjusted...
Really, you want no throttle opening AT ALL. If you have it on one barrel, it's going to make it difficult to get your idle speed down. This is why I was mentioning the sealant that BMW uses to seal the throttle plates to the bore. This is a very important part of the construction.
The IAC, remember is for idle speed corrections. It's not designed as the base-idle maintainer. That is what your bypasses are for. You will set your idle speed to just below target (say 800-850 for a final idle speed warm of 900 rpms) with your bypasses. This will keep you from drop-throttle stalling. Use the IAC and the computer to bring the idle up the final 50 rpms so it always is in it's functional range and operating. This heightens it's response characteristics. As you drop-throttle, the idle bypass will keep enough airflow to keep your engine from stalling while the IAC target idle response works it out to open the thing and admit that last bit of air. It's true the individual bypasses will show very little difference in anything other than idle speed, but on a good gauge you will be able to read the different flows through the cylinders and adjust from there. On our external balance tube, we simply pinch off each of the cylinders from the main tube to check airflow through that runner. Once the synch is set, we re-enable the whole log.
On my turbo car, I could feel individual cylinders hit during hard acceleration when I didn't have a balance tube. AFter I installed one, I had some trouble checking synch unless it was disabled, but the power was MUCH smoother under acceleration than it had been with the non-balance tube setup.
IAC tuning is more important if you are using accessories like A/C, but I'll stop now...
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You're just missing the point is all. I haven't been on E-Bay for months.
I just don't want to waste my time. If I go there, I'm looking for something I can't find elsewhere. That means I need it, or want it.
As such, I take the steps to accomplish that with as little effort on my part as possible.
I don't want to be there any longer than required, and there is no downloading of anything. It's all internet based. The servers they use are usually in close proximity to the E-Bay servers so they can have better chance than I can of getting in without a problem.
This is not some sort of search-bot, or anything at all that is resident on your computer. It's just a place that places your bid for you. The program is on their servers, not your computer (at least the one I use, not sure about the others, but I figure it's similar.) Not any different than a Yahoo Mail Account, really.
You can choose to have them have your pay information, or not. They don't have mine, I pay myself after notification of winning.
The payment is totally separate, and something totally in your control if you so choose.
I just like the convienience of not having to be tied to my computer in order to get something I need or want. There is other things I can be doing.
Even at 2AM! Sleep, Suds, or Sex come to mind immediately, in any particular order you want to sort them.
The question is, 'which would you rather be doing?'
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Ive got a Dwyer Slack Tube Manometer I can use for four cylinders---I just attach each end of the tube to the vacuum port on each carburettor---it's not like you can adjust cylinder pair balance on a Mikuini....
The guys that have seen me do that tell me I'm using it wrong...but hooking up each end shows you differential between the carbs---same thing as hooking up an individual stack to their own individual manometer without the hassle of having the levels and scales calibrated beforehand.
The manometers are fine for stationary shops, but travelling with them is a royal PITA.
For that matter, Omega makes a nice digital Manometer that is pretty slick! I've used one of those as well.
That Scheyler is handy to have laying around, especially for the cost!
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The SCCA has restrictions about connecting the hoop to the chassis on the roof section, from what I understand. It's more 'fit this template as a universal' for a lot of this stuff.
There should be a universal standard. I'd be inclined to go 'FIA Lite' for club events and Gymkhana. But I'm betting there is an FIA Spec close for that kind of event as well.
I know that 240! LOL
The Red one awaits similar treatment...
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That will only match idle synchronisation. And all the throttles need to be connected to speed up the process. When you open one cylidner, they all get a higher vacuum.
Having all six on a manifold 't'd' into his manifold block would be the way to set idle. With the over the horn gauge, you can quickly jump from each barrel to the next quickly checking where they all are and make the idle adjustments. You can get the off-idle done while the engine is warming up, and have it damned close by the time it's at operating temp to do the idle synch with the manifold needle valves.
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Numbers on his homepage. Check out his site, there is stuff there you will undoubtedly be interested in...
Small port heads.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Absolutely! I retrofitted an L28 block into a 1977 Fairlady Z that used the P65 L20E manifold (that curvey runner job that goes around the plenum with a two-barrel pregressive throttle plate). Using the L20ET fuel injectors, the L20 AFM, and that plenum the L28 was VERY torquey at low speed. Matter of fact, punching it in second gear at 2500 rpms would break the tires free for smoking donuts. Which the owner of the car enjoyed quite a bit. I demonstrated it for him, then let him do it several times to show 'there wsa not a special driving style' that I was using. You punched it at the rpms you mentioned (2000-4000) and that thing just WENT! The engine was 'all in' by 5500, though. No high end power to speak of, but below 4500 that thing was VERY responsive.
This was just that small runner manifold on a stock N42 / N42 block and head setup. The only thing I could figure was the super-small runners had such a high velocity through those runners, dumping across an anti-reversionary step into those bigger L28 N42 head ports that it didn't allow any reversion of the fuel mix at all, and just crammed fuel and air into the cylinders at the lower speeds. For a street engine, I'd do it again (like for a wife's car) in a second, if I was able to get that L20E manifold.