Tony D

BIG turbine splitline bolts on a bullgang is one thing. Not having an impact to zip zip zip those 1/2-13 bolts and other small fasteners all over the water piping. 4 3/8" 2000 ft-lbs bolts yeah, that's one thing. But man! Give a brother a break!

It's beeeeeeen a while, but the Detroits were set up for clockwise, or counterclockwise configuration. The blower could be on either side depending on configuration of the package. That means the blower would be set up using a 'universal' drive package. It looks symmetrical, either direction of mounting... The diesel blowers are not the same as what you get in aftermarket kits. You can use them, but there are modifications you have to do, and several conversions change the end casings...

The new modular diesle slated for production at Tonawanda Engine Facility for 2010? My bud ran their CDA Facility, big plans for that engine. Same place that made the Corvair Engine... Don't know how that bodes for GM Tonawanda... LOL

3 to 8.6 Bar inlet pressure...depends on application I would surmise a minimum of 14 to 100+ CFM for operation, depending on horsepower. Besides cutting up hogs, cutting in mines for timbering, and cutting downed trees underwater are two uses for an air-powered saw. But I never used them in that capacity. Only splittin' hawgs....

Got Dimensions? I thought the 6-71's had 3 sections in it, a 4-71 might be the one you have. A 3-71 and 2-71 do not have the bridge section with sub-webbing in them. Length will tell you which it is. With no frame of reference it's hard to make a definate call. Rotor Diameter would distinguish it between the 71 and the 53 series. Actually, a 3 or 4-53 blower would work pretty nicely on our L-Engines...

Pressure drop is a function of pressure and flow present, guys. Temperature drops as work is accomplished, wether the air is 10* or 1000*...it's the premise on which most commercial air separation plants function. "JeffP is running his turbo off the map to make what he is making and it isn't making 500 rwhp at 18 psi." ?

To use Nisstune on an L-6 EFI you have to upgrade the ECU to at least a Z31 ECU with appropriate wiring modifications. If you wan't coil on plug, then there are other ECUs that can be adapted to the L-6 as well to use a Nissan ECU and harness.

It's worked for me in the past, so with all due respect to Sgt Castillo, I'll stick with what's worked in the past for me... And nobody said anything about walking around the house. That will get you dead sure as crossing the third rail to take a nap on the Tube...

Not true. By that simple maxim, a verifiable US-Market 260Z should be more valuable that many other models of S30. They're not... There are plenty of things out there that were one or two-of's and aren't worth squat. If someone places value on it, then it becomes valuable. Simply being one-of-a-kind does not impart value in and of itself. There are other factors that build into it's value. I could go political in recent events for more recent flagrant examples...but it's a no-no!

Thet thar be fer splittin' hawgs richt dern da middle 'o 'em! I would kill for an I-R Titanium 1/2" Drive impact on this jobsite. Sure, you can put 22 guys on a machine, all swinging hammers and slugging wrenches. But for pipe flanges??? It took a full week here to do what I have goeetn done with two semi-disabled South Carolina Rednecks and an impact in a day (no disrespect, they were guys that 'could be spared' at the plant there, and they were happy to be working...and with a couple of impacts they really didn't need both hands!

On industrial turbos on stationary powerplants, you will watch TIT and TOT for a differential to see turbocharger efficiency...

Tell the people who were put out of work at Diesel Technologies---the plant is shuttered in Grand Rapids, and the forwarding address is in S.C... I watched PCM-Bosch put their people in place, listened to what their stated reasoning was behind acquisition of DT from Penske, and watched them shutter the plant as technology was transferred to the N/A Operations Center in SC. If they didn't transfer technology, they sure as heck shut the plant down! I'm not going to argue about it, I know people who lived the transition, and the technology Bosch Acquired is direct transfer. It's no different than Atlas Copco buying up Chicago Pneumatic and painting their portable compressors white and red with the CP label on it. Samsung introducing the Turbo-Air 8000 Series three days after cancelling their joint-venture with Atlas Copco. Same as Atlas Copco did to Elliott in the 70's when they came out with their 'own' HL Series Centrifugal. You can PM me, if you want to argue about it, there's no need to do it further in the thread... And from this thread I realize I meant to say "53-Series" which is in the ambphibs... I crossed the 53 and the 60 series up in my head. I was out of that area of work by the time the 60 series was introduced. It was all 53/71 stuff, and in a jump forward, to some 92's and MTU Stuff...

I'm going to blame you Mortensen! My wife is going to carp and moan about me getting another firesomething... But just talking about it makes me go 'I haven't bought one in a while...' And printing my logic behind buying one reminded me there's not a real compelling reason not to right now! I mean, I don't want to spend ALL my money on the Z's!

The 'thing' about SS is more on the heat transfer side of it. Sure, it corrodes less than mild steel piping (chlorides will attack stainless, but that's another story...) but it retains heat IN the exhaust pipes, radiating much less. Ever stick your hands under the hood of a N/A car with SS headers versus one with a mild steel header and you will see the difference. Sure, it doesn't corrode, but it also helps with keeping stuff around the exhaust cooler due to less heat emission. And if you get the hair...it polishes up real nice, too for that bling bling 'thing'!

I got into a discussion on Shotguns for home defense with an 'uninitiated' person with small children around the house. He was set that he needed a 9mm because that is what all his buddies from Compton told him he wanted because he had '13 shots'. 1) Shotgun, 1ea, 12Ga, OO Buck. Pull the triger, and 18 .36 vcaliber projectiles go downrange. Just slightly smaller than 9mm. 2) You don't need to be 'spot on' with the aim in a high pressure situation. 3) The barrel is long enough, and the thing is heavy enough that a 3 year old will not pick it up, point it at his own face, and be able to pull the trigger. 4) If you store it with nothing in the chamber, just the sound will send anybody entering your house running. Everybody knows that sound of a pump-gun. "I have a gun 'CLICK/SCHLLLLLACK/CARRACK' get out now or I'll ventilate you!" rarely would get beyond the noise... I like 45ACP. Call me old fashioned, but it was designed to knock down drug crazed Phillipinos during the Insurrection almost a century ago, and it works. The only reason we went to 9mm was because 'everybody else jumped off the bridge'...as tactical pistol re-evolved, the came back to where they were almost a century before. Slow, BIG bullet to expend all it's energy in a shallow cavity and knock something down. Having to run with an empty chamber kind of sucks, and the double/single setup makes for that first shot without much ado. Especially if you don't have both hands free to operate the slide. The nice thing about a Tec9 was you could bang the bolt against the edge of a table to cock it... And since owning an MP5 with all the tactical goodies is Verboten in CA...I'm stuck with my Police Surplus Remington 870 Pump, and the 45ACP Colt. I liked my bro-in-laws Ruger P89 (?) kind of a flippy nose on it, but easy to bring onto target. The S&W in the same caliber I felt was much more stable. With a larger round, I'd go with stability. Since doublestacked mags of high capacity went away, the width of the grip isn't much of an issue. Though I have big hands and liked the beefier handgrips. As I tell my wife when she asks the same question as above: "It's not about need, honey. I want one, and because I can, I will!" No more justification for anything including cars, polygamist sect membership, or firearms need be given! **** On gun safes, it wasn't until I met up with one of our distributors in Salt Lake City and saw the 'Fort Knox' gun safe brochure that I had even considered storing other items in there! I actually have a gun safe with nothing gun related in it. (well...) Computer Discs, financial records, credit cards we aren't using, second set of I.D. for the run to the border when end of times comes...you know, the essentials. The firearms are in a less expensive safe and they are there alone. ACtually the ammunition is in the Fort Knox, and the stuff that shoots it is in another. I had to beef up the joists in my house to keep it from creaking and slightly sagging where I wanted to put it. I wish I had a basement so I could place it on a nice concrete slab with proper anchor bolts. But I don't think it's going anywhere. But back to fireproofing, the Fort Knox is a fire brick like substance, same refractory they use in furnace linings. What it does it prevent the heat of a house fire from transferring to the interior. It has a time rating, as I recall mine withstands 3000F for 45 minutes without the interior exceeding 180F. Which means plastic survives, most everything that wouldn't be damaged sitting on your dashboard would be safe in there. I doubt my house would take 45 minutes to burn, so I figure I'm safe. After that point, it raises linerlay, so at 50 minutes you are at like 250, 60 minutes 350, etc... You can't get ridiculous about what it will achieve, but when you look at what the little fire safes proviude compared to what the Fort Knox Gun Safe provides, I was sold. $2100 later, and untold gallons of company-paid gsaloine (and about 1500 miles on the shop truck) and it was mine. Sure, there was a service call in SLC. That's why I drove. That's it! Big thing is most fire safes are trying to keep the contents below the kindling temperature of paper (451F), whereas gunsafes are trying to keep ammunition from cooking-off, and for that, they want a BIG margin of safety. The dehumidifier kit is simply a light bulb in the bottom to keep air moving through the interior. Diurnal variation can cause condensation, and THAT will rust your metal objects. SImply have it warm enough to be non-condensing and you won't have an issue. It, from what I know, is not from the refractory material. It's a closed room, almost airtight. If you open it on a humid day, and close it...as the temperature drops, it condenses. It's a matter of natural laws. A Dehumidifer/Desiccant bag will work, but it's finite life. How do you know when it's 'bad'? The dehumidifier/light kit just does a similar function through temperature elevation. Who wants to stick their sack in an over at 350 degrees for 3 hours every couple of months when you can just leave a 25W bulb on the bottom shelf burning. Hot air rises to the top of the safe, cools, sinks to the bottom, is reheated... Nice airflow pattern, and warm enough to 'desiccate' anything 'wet' that may have gone into the 'sealed environment' unintentionally (like that moist gunsock on the rifle from a day in the field...) There is actually (gawd I'm admitting it) a nice technical paper online about fragmentation and fire prevention of small arms caches stored in Conex Boxes that was pretty interesting. Something about loading 350# of C4 into a container filled with explosives and small arms ammunition, and then setting it off in next to other containers to 'see what would propogate'... When you got time on your hands, you read. Alright? I had time. I read!

Been there, done that... NAH! This is something totally different. I'm talking lift design, hydraulic circut function design, etc... What I do now is field service...commissioning, placement and siting of new equipment, overhauls of existing product base. No system design at all, nuthin! Mostly going and pointing out where people have done 'DUH' moments. This entire week I've been watching them refit every pipe associated with a new knockout vessel on the aftercooler to this machine. I showed up the first day and said "the legs on that vessel are too long, the flange doesn't line up wit hthe aftercooler!" They literally didn't figure that out till they had the crane and the spool piece in place before going 'hey, this doesn't fit!' I now fix what I would have been doing because of forgetting this parameter or that. I got to look at a cratered A-Frame machine today. Rotor was spin tested to 115% for acceptance. Problem was governor failure allowed an almost 200% overspeed situation. "BOOM!" It's amazing to think an impeller can frag-out like that, and split a machined and bolted joint open. It's not what I'm here to do, but whenever someone says 'we got this break'...you can't help NOT going to take a look and help out. So now it's up to microfracture concerns in the remaining items that didn't frag out. (The impeller that fragged normally runs at 52,500, you do the math!) The turbine didn't even reach first critical, so it's likely o.k.... save that the pin-trip (mechanical safety) didn't work. Someone is going to get a nasty letter over this breakdown!

They give you total system capacity in the FSM. Make a 50% mix, you put half the amount required of antifreeze. Anything left over, you top off with fresh water. 60/40 Water Glycol? 40% of the total amount of glycol, and top off the rest with water. Incidentally, you really should mix externally and fill with your mix instead of trying to have the pump 'mix' it for you.

LOL! "Kits designed for professional installation" I can see the disclaimers coming on the packages now!

And I thought JeffP's was a tight fit in some places!

Check out the link I posted... Dual Float Bowls for fuel capacity on boosted cars... And 63mm Diameter to boot!

All those 'high grade' Aftermarket Vendors out there need to be very careful about dissing Megasquirt---here are a couple of prime examples of 'starter systems' where someone started with a Megasquirt, and eventually moved on to another system. What differences / improvements / problems have you encountered with the swap, compared with the MS, Phil?

Actually, take that a bit further, the "Bosch" contribution was the common rail injection system that makes the Duramax what it is (quiet, by comparison, flexible, etc...) And Bosch bought that injection techonlogy. Acquired a small company in Grand Rapids Michigan that specialized in Diesel Technologies (actually, that was the name of the company), they were a portion of Penske. (Then they moved it to South Carolina and if you didn't want to move....) Penske bought them from another company some years back when they acquired their heavy-diesel line since they are big in truck leasing. The company Penske bought "Diesel Technologies" from? DETROIT DIESEL/ALLISON. A.K.A.: "GM" A lot of moving about, a lot of money spent, for GM to buy it's own technology from a company that bought their technology from them! So much for GM not knowing how to build a Diesel. (3-63 was only 3 Liters, and was used worldwide for decades. It's still out there powering everything from remote power generation sets in the jungle, to boats, to small amphibious vehicles used by the USMC...they are close as bullet-proof a diesel as you can get, and can be field overhauled by a monkey with sticks and rocks...) I love the old 63/71/92 series Detroits. But they're 'bad diesel' technology: Two Stroke. Baaaad! I know of a guy with a 4-71T in a Toyota Minitruck...and he does 152mph+ in that thing! Somewhere, I have photos, and video of just that...

Mistime the injection pump one time, and see if this statement is true! The injection event is precisely timed. Put it to a point where it is igniting before it should (uncontrolled combustion) and things will break in a spectacular fashion. They use heat of compression to ignite direct-injected fuel. That's a far cry from 'detonation'.

LOL! gdv350ss post made me laugh. I had a new kid working with me, and he asked about the third day on the job "Are all jobs like this?" I guess my answer of 'No, this is a prime assignment: you have a competent support crew at the customer site, they want to learn what you're doing so it won't happen again, and this break room is top-notch! No, this is a really good site. Usually they are a lot worse!' When we came back from the field, he walked straight into the office and said 'I don't want to work here, this is not for me!' LOL I mean, it was hot & loud, but the oil mist in the air was gone...I mean, what? You thought you would never get dirty? LOL But I got to admit, Concrete Testing and construction in general is a bit harsh if you're not ready to work as he said. You will find something you like, and when you do, get good at it. There are a lot of other things I could be doing...but really, I like what I do. Getting oil poured down the back of my neck, or covered in dirt head to toe...meh! I washes off at the end of the day. You will make your path. If not at the first place, somewhere. Don't dismiss something out of hat before at least trying it. Sometimes the most unlikely things would snag your interest and rope you into something you actually like doing. You never know what it will be! I would never have guessed it would be Air Compressors. Hydraulics and Fluid Power? Yes. That's what I 'wanted' to do. But air compressors? Never thought of that, never even saw it coming! LOL

JGK, you should send JeffP an E-Mail. He's running a GT53R and is boosting at 3400. Can't remember if it's a .82 or .63A/R turbine he has. And the 18psi numbers you are mentioning sound familiar.