Tony D

The only think to note if you are using a stock Nissan Fuel Pump is the internal relief will start lifting and seriously decrease flow with 60psi at the pump. That would likely result in 55 or less psi available at the engine, possibly less depending on flow usage. I could see 45psi (3 Bar) on a stock Nissan Pump, but 60 is just going to cause problems. Especially given the fact that 440CC/Min Supra Injectors will run fine in N/A applications on the SDS's resolution at idle. Idle is not really that much an issue, really. Like someone posted, even in an N/A application at peak torque (say around 4500 for grabbing a number out of my butt) 25# injectors are at nearly 100% duty cycle to supply adequate fuel. You have a cam, and it is going to want fuel at the torque plateau. As an example of what I have a 160CC/min injector in: 1641CC Vw Bug Engine with Engle 110Cam, making around 58HP to the Rear Wheels. It works nicely in that engine. I'd say the 16# for a cammed engine is far undersized, the minimum I would go (and what I put in most anything I do with a Megasquirt) is the Turbo 25# (270cc/Min) injectors. For a bone stock L28 a 16# might work, but playing around with fuel pressure just adds to issues down the road. I wouldn't hesitate to run the 42# units. For the Turbo install 550's would work, but I'd see where the idle quality goes and what pulsewidth you are running to judge if the 550's would be applicable straight out the box. They might, but you have to see where you are with the 42' first. It's more than size, as well. What type of spray or pintile configuration you hvae can affect your idle as much as the size of the injector. JeffP had a terrible time with one configuration of 650cc/min injectors getting a decent idle. Swapped over to another configuration (I think he went away from the ring/disc style) at 720CC/min and it idled MUCH better as the injector was controlling the fuel much more efficiently. So in that case, a larger injector worked better than a differently configured smaller injector. But to me, even for a stock motor, 14 or 16# is marginal, there is no room for growth there. I think under the torque peak, you will run out of fuel. I'm not a big fan of jacking the fuel pressure when you can properly size the injectors in the first place.

My Bro is living someplace in Novi now...I think. Maight be over by Aburn Tech Center. Not quite sure, was running late last time and didn't get a chance to stop by and reconniter... Then again, my Cottage in Tawas isn't going anywhere. You got it, US23 rocketing up and back!

Baaaad Fast!

/Stroking Beard/ "Hmmmmmm, 45 minutes you say..."

The whole focus of our effort was to break Nissans Record. We did so, and have been working on engine power ever since. Our eventual goal is to, after seeing that we have gotten as much speed out of the S30, to go with the S130 and then 'bump' the records using yet the next generation of Z Car. The numbers are startling, a F/GT in ZX form should easily be capable of the same speeds we have gone in F/GALT (173.325) simply due to the bone stock aero and lift figures being that much better. If someone has a coupe, go for it. That was kind of the reason for fighting so hard the last year over wether the G-Nose was a 'production option'...I had laid the groundwork years ago to try and keep the GS130 (2+2) classified as a 'Production Vehicle' like the GS30 currently is, so that this progression could occur. The Z31 is out. Period. It's already in the rules, they are classified as 'Jump Seats' and will run against a Porsche 911-Style Vehicle (GT or BGT Class). If they nix our bid out the gate as a Production Car in the GS130 Chassis...we will run a 2+2 simply because I have three of the damned things in my back yard that I've harvested over the years towards this eventual goal (Two Slicktops, and one Turbo...along with a spare slicktop roof for the Turbo). As much as I have a curiosity, I would rather the time be spent on knowledge gained on the front end of the car, that is where the gains will be made, and will be applicable to both models regardless. Frankly, anything more than rolling a bone-stock 2+2 in for a basic test to compare one to the other doesn't seem justified. And for the time it would take in the day to accomplish that...it's just not worth it IMO. Anybody wants to know about lift, we got wheelspin over 140mph at ElMirage after removing the small spoiler. We solved it by filling the spare tire well of the car with solid concrete and welding in a couple of pieces of rebar to make sure it didn't come out and start bouncing around. If you can figure out how much the concrete weighed, that was enough to counter our lift at 140+... How many guys in 2+2's are going 140+? Even more to the point, of the guys requesting information on 2+2's, how many are going 140+ to actually use any prospective information gained on rear lift should the data become available? And if (big IF)the numbers are large enough of a difference, who's going to make 2+2 specific modifications to maximize on this? It's diminishing returns in my book. Hey, if I won the lotto for $110 Million Lump Sum after taxes, we would set up a testing WEEK and have guys in to set up their personal cars as my 'thanks' to the site. Till that happens, wise utilisation of resources should dictate the testing regimen.

And the other Engineer from Los Angeles is midway through his flight to Australia as we speak... As I stew in my own Juices here in Nigeria...with a follow-on to Jakarta...if the French ever release me from this hell... Missed another one, BUGGER!

If you have an 8AM class, why are you posting here at...what...0130? Unless you are in Paris or Frankfurt, where it's 0830 now... (it's 0930 here now...) "I digress"

Many people get the horribly mistaken idea that the reason we run a 2+2 at Bonneville is because of some sort of 'aerodynamic advantage' produced by the longer roof and different hatch slope. Listen closely to the following statement carefully, all those who believe that, your world is about to be shattered: WE RUN IT BECAUSE WE HAVE TO FOR THE CLASSIFICATION (/PRO) IN THE RULEBOOK, NOTHING MORE That's the extent of the "2+2 Choice", we need to run a car with FOUR seating positions, and that is a 2+2. The Coupe runs in GT class, and goes just as fast as we do, but unfortunately since it's a coupe, it ultimately can only run in GT and MS classes. Whereas being a "Production Sedan or Coupe" allows us to run in up to 13 different configurations. It was purely a matter of 'most bang for the buck'...for $20K into the car (er....thereabouts, give or take...er, yeah...) we get the possibility of competing in 13 classes, as opposed to two. Two classes, I might add that car contested by guys like Bob Norwood in Ferraris, and crap like that. We went after a record set by a Z, and broke it with a Z. And then went to other classes. But there was absolutely no 'aerodynamic advantage' we sought by using a 2+2 over a Coupe. Does one exist? Doubtful. The speeds achieved by either car are identical according to SCTA BNI records. Personally, as curious as I might be about a 2+2's aerodynamics, and much as it would mutually benefit me to get data in that direction, I personally think it would be a terrible waste of resources to put a 2+2 in there and start fiddling on it at all. If you want a better aero package in the Z, or in a 2+2 Z, get an S130 which comes out of the box better and slipperier, and with less lift and drag than the S30 in it's best configuation! Just my .02 on the whole 2+2 thing.

Take a look at where the tailpipe on a stock S30 ends---it's usually MUCH further back, in many cases it is almost flush with the bumper's total length. Most 'performance' exhausts clip that and tuck the tailpipe section well short of that. Tying in with your 'exhaust velocity' theory, you can see that having a 'dorky looking tail pipe that sticks out so far' is actually a good bit of engineering on Nissan's part. Just stick a can or piece of muffler extension tubing on the tailpipe with a clamp and see what happens when the pipe is out as far a stock one...

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHHA!

What is the Top Gear Camaro Incident? Or should I ask?

Yep...works fine. Ditto on Autobox if you plan on drag racing it at all. Car will be much more lively with the turbo.

Er....how close are you from Milan, BTW? When I went to Export PA for training last time, I ended up blazing the trail back to the cottage, and pass by Milan Dragway coming and going... Maybe with that setup you can best my time from 1982 there at Milan: 15.50 flat in my 1962 Turbo Microbus!!! As far as I know, that's the 'official HybridZ track record at Milan'! Very nice numbers Tim. Why not try it on that great Sunoco "84 Octane Sub-Regular" as well? For us terminally cheap lawnmower gas in the car types... LOL

Grind it off, start over. next time, work it till it's done. A whole roof skimcoated should be able to be worked with a long board to completion in less than 6 hours of concentrated effort. The SEAL it with epoxy primer. In the old days if it was going to sit you used lacquer primer and then whatever lacquer topcoat you had in the gun at the end of the day to stick a seal coat on it to keep moisture off of it. You don't need the filler frinish-smooth, you can always block-sand back into it at a later time. But the KEY is to SEAL it before you set it away and let the moisture get onto it. Any time you work it, and expose filler, make sure to seal it completely before finishing the day. I have had projects in the tropics that went on for three years not have a lifting problem following that simple standard. Seal it well at the end of every working day. And I'll tell you what, before I did the final primer/surfacer and final block sanding, I think I had just about every color of the rainbow of topcoat sealing where I worked. Metallic Purple, Turquoise, Yellow, Red, Midnight Blue Metallic...oh gawd it looked horrible. Black primer covers a lot of that, and added just the right 'blood red' look to my otherwise 'bright red' top coat! Live and learn, eh?

He nailed it, that pressed steel plate is a dead giveaway. The only thing I would use it for was a donor bellhousing for a KA Tranny retrofit!

Key is, buy it cheap when you got the $$$... Then, if it sits around a couple of decades, and you got the storage space...no skin off my nose. As I reply to my wife: 'Because a damned horse needs to be fed, groomed, brushed, and otherwise tended to, MY stuff just sits in a box till I get to it...THAT's why a car is better than a damned horse!' I mean, you can't cosmoline a horse into suspended animation. And if someone's figured out how to, don't tell my wife, or we're going to have horse crap all over the back yard because my last argument against it will be gone... The Z's played hell with the damn goats she had. They like to climb, and the roofs were soooo tempting. Damnable hooved horrors. Horses don't like to climb everything laying around do they? That would be the next argument I suppose 'The Z's were there first!'

Yeah, if the PCV is not functioning, and you are getting a high in-crankcase pressure the best seals in the world will not stop the oil from coming over past them. i'm not sure of the design of yours, wether it's carbon ring, or labyrinth, but both will be overcome easily by oil backup by even as much as a few inches of water pressure. The whole idea of the drain tube is that nothing really exists in the chamber under any pressure whatsoever. The seals are mere 'splash guards' at best. If you have any pressure they can be overwhelmed. Before you start spending money, check the drainage and pressure in the crankcase. A Magnahelic gauge and a fitting tapped into an old oil filler cap would work. Get something that reads to + and -5" H20, and if you peg the gauge positive....fix that first! Note on the testing: Make sure the high pressure reference lines originate on the oil cap, and the engine bay reading with one port uncovered in the passenger's compartment can skew the readings. Two pieces of tubing aren't that expensive! Copper Wire O-Ring of the exhaust flange works nice for a permanent leak-free gasket when combined with 736RTV (Red O2 Sensor Safe) Good to see you got the fumes nixed right away. Oh, and compression/leakdown tests will give you nothing on the condition of the valve seals Grumpy was talking about. Not much will. Again, they can be false diagnosed as 'bad' if you have compression blowby in sufficient amount to overwhelm the PCV system you are using. A pressure test of the crankcase pressure is the only way to know. more than 4" is probably going to cause a problem. Good Luck!

Cooler Air, denser, possibly has gotten your exhaust to a point where it was too rich to combust spontaneously before now is juuuust right? Free flow exhausts will backfire if there is enough fuel in them, and enough aspirated air... Put a shot of Propane in a gallon paint can, poke a hole in one end, and light the hole. Thing burns out the hole for a second, then 'goes out' only to BLAM! Fire off several seconds after the visible flame went inside the can. You go from a combustible mixuure, to an explosive mixture, and the burn rate accelerates, giving the loud bangs. Same thing in your exhaust. I'd say you are leaner now instead of really rich out the tailpipe, and it's more combustible for a little while till everything gets up to operational temperature. Vague post, but that it goes away leads me in that direction. A bad condenser on the points can do something similar giving a backfire out the exhaust, but it won't go away with the car warming up...same for incorrect firing order or plug wires crossfiring, etc... Those stay...

Yeah, I was coming up the ramp at O'Hare and everybody was hanging at the end of the jetway. Backing up getting off the plane. I was thinking 'WTF are all these people so enthralled at?' Got there and there was a big hole in the nose of the 737 we were flying along in! Made the national news...if you do a search on the internet it's likely you can see video of the United Airlines flight that got hit with lightning flying around Chicago in a storm. That was the plane I was on! Late 90's as I recall. Can't pin it down any closer than that. Probably post 95, but before 98...closest I can come. But yeah, that was my first thought---would have expected some composite glass mesh or something. Truthfully when I got on a small commercial carrier 'up north' and saw small diameter chrome-moly seat supports I had the same thought "Wow, they are still using steel on passenger aircraft?" You would think aluminum...but not (what looked like) Oxy Acetylene Welded CrMo tubing! You just get used to seeing some things, and when something from days past comes up, it kind of jumps out at cha! Good example would be seeing Drum Brakes on all four corners of a car today. They work, and work well...but you just don't expect to see it. Tom's house is wicked cool inside. He went whole hog on the use of aircraft plywood. Really spindly looking arches, dramatic design elements. He usually did Concrete Tip-Up structures...I think he needed the challenge. What we do with our cars, he did on his house! LOL No worries, PP!

The Gliders used on D-Day were produced in the UP of Michigan at the Ford Kingsford Facility, big milling and wood operation. Canvas covering. Place where the BBQ Briquette Originated...because Mr. Ford was upset by all the 'Waste' of Sawdust at the facility. "Come up with something to do with that!" And an industry was born! But....recycling is 'new tech'! LOL

Bill Murray in the Pool...

Hey, I'm not dissing plywood! Stitka Spruce's qualities are on par with Steel... Given the proper alignment. My bud from school is a Structural Engineer-Archetict type. Had to get loads of zoning and building variances for the house he built. Really complex balconies and interior arches he designed using Aircraft Spruce as the structural components. Big arguments with local 'experts' in buildings and plans... But he got them through, has a nice overhung interior balcony in his atrium area from the second floor held up with a realy spindly looking plywood arch... You would swear it'd break off just from the weight of the balcony. But he showed me the drawings on how this plywood was stronger than steel in the same directional bias. Just hope it never gets wet... LOL

Ditto BJ Hines commentary on my bone stock 1974 260Z running on 91 octane California Premium... Put in that 100 Octane ERC Fuel, runs fine, no dieseling after shutdown. Petrol is not what it once was. Go to autozone, put in the "NOS" octane booster (seriously!) and see what happens. It adds effectively $1 per gallon to the cost of my gas, but STOPPED the dieseling and spark knocking during driving that I was experiencing. Not that I use it every tank, I just keep a lighter foot, and kill it with the clutch at idle before shutdown. I know what fixes it, but I'm not spending any money on it. It runs, I try to minimize the damage and just run the 91....

It's a four-speed for sure. No dobut about it. For $100 you can do better...

That's a myth, the 240 was never offered with anything other than the twin SU's anywhere in the world. The manifold likely came off a Maxima, or any number of JDM Coupes and Sedans (Cedric, Gloria, Skyline, Leopard, etc). The one to find, the one that is REALLY REALLY REALLY hard to find is the E32 Four-Barrel Manifold from the 67 Gloria. You want 'cool piece rarely seen'? That Gloria Four-Barrel Manifold is it!