Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Japanese racers would flop the air cleaner end-for-end as they didn't have some of our emissions related stovepipes on it...and then duct air from the cowl area through the grille at the base of the windshield.
With no linkages in the way, they could do that. On a LHD car, it would be considerably more difficult.
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"Nice Cool Gas Tank" only applies to after you fuel it from an underground tank.
I have has heated fuel suction cavitation present out here when the tank level drops to 1/4 as the recirculation heats up the tank.
Driving across the desert will have your tank at over 140 degrees in NO TIME!
I took a Coleman Cooler, sized to hold a full 7# bag of ice, and made a 'cool can' for a 240 we drove up to vegas with...the bag would last about 2 hours of driving, and the water would be over 120F...same as the tank contents! Lower fuel levels just don't work as a heat sink. Even with a full tank, unless you cool the fuel on the way back to the tank it will start heating up.
Just depends on the vapor characteristics of your fuel as to when it will cause flash-cavitation on the inlet of the pump. The high-speed electric pumps don't seem any less prone than the diaphragm pumps mounted to the block-even though they are usually much cooler, and nearer the fuel source.
The reason to put the return line to the surge tank is when you start sucking air from the tank on your pre-pump, your surge tank still has fuel in it, allowing the main pump to remain flooded...all the fuel returning from the fuel rail keeps that surge tank full during that instant when you are sucking down the main reservior.
If you returned it to the tank separately, you would need a much taller vessel, and sized larger in total volume capacity to accomodate the times when you are sucking air.
On a track car where you have a single pickup, you could suck air on both right AND left handers, and that would mean a larger and larger fuel capacity in the surge tank for each expected incidence of booster pump starvation.
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WOW!
And I thought a Diesel Sentra was a neat find!
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Alan, I have sent you a P.M.
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API oil classification for zinc changed when they moved from SL to SM and the SM lost most of its zinc and other anti wear additives, something to do with zinc poisoning the system. So if you are using oil that has a SL or earlier classification you are not missing zinc in your oil. HB280ZT
Curiously I took a look at my freshly-bought Shell Delo oil for The Boy's 510 when we were in the parts store this weekend. We are getting ready for fire-up and break-in and noticed that the oil I picked up was only "SJ" rated! Which I thought odd, as it had the latest "C" rating for diesels...
So that would run in line with what you were told, as I checked all the other oils on the shelf that were available (even AutoZone Generic) and they all had much later "S" ratings, though some without a "C" designation, or one that was lower than the Delo.
There seems to be specialization in oils now and branches of 'diesel specific' and 'passenger car specific' oils are being marketed.
I wondered out loud if this SL-SM Change conincided with the cessation of the marketing hype around 'We will warrant your engine against oil-related failures for the life of your car if you use our oil' type of warranties from the oil companies out there. Anybody else notice the 'fading away' of that warranty claim? Curious if any of them still offer that kind of warranty?
That tells me they recognized something critical had changed, and they limited their exposure accordingly.
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I will have to look into that...
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To build the Z to beat we should talk again about our sponsor contract .
lol! I see money is boing renegotiated!
If you can get more money out of him, tell him to send me the $$$ for the bearings he burned up in his last motor...BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
I may be in Morocco for Spa...BAH!
I am trying to play with the numbers and dates as one way or another I have to be in Morocco before Spa, and then go to Nigeria on or around the 27th...
And there aren't many direct flights. Having to fly to Paris to fly BACK to Africa is insane...but this may work to my advantage!
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I don't know where you get 3500rpms, the Nissan OHC is not a Detroit. The rev limit is not 3500rpms, it's closer to 4500 or 5400 as I recall!
I know Keith Bailey could do 112mph in his LD powered 240Z.
A stock tired car with a late ZX gearbox and 3.36 rear gear will turn 2000 rpms for 50mph, and by 3000rpms you will pretty much pass everybody!
So gearing is not an issue. I have not checked the pumpkin in the last Diesel Maxima I dissected, but I really should. I'm curious to see how they were geared. I know the automatics used a different sun cluster up front than gasoline cars...and for guys running N/A Petrol L-Engines with a four speed autobox that gear cluster makes for some interesting combinations with something like a 4.38 rear gear (considering the .67 overdrive in the slushbox!)
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That is a fluke and you won't find that often.
How is six times in the past two years (with someone else finding similar finds on equal basis) a fluke?
Last weekend JeffP bought the crankshaft from an LD for under $40, as it happened to be 'half price day' at the JY. Last time I bought just the crank, it was $39 with the harmonic balancer and flywheel attached.
You can buy the whole Maxima on the street for under $2000. There's one in Craigslist right now I see for $1200 asking.
That's an average of one crank a month...but two guys who don't have time to 'scour' the JY like they did in their youth.
$170 for the engine, with a $40 core. Last one I bought complete for $275 no core, outright.
There is a reason the cranks only sell for $250 on E-Bay (or thereabouts)---they're not all that rare!
Same for the complete engine. Maybe SoCal is a geographic anomaly---but the vendors selling in SoCal are apparently preying on those who don't want to spend a day walking through a junkyard to find something they want/need.
I think $2000 for a used Maxima engine is outrageous when the car can be bought whole for less than that.
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Darn, I thought I'd see John making a comment about 'cheating' with an overbored L24 in a FIA Regulated Class.
I was so hoping to show Miroux's Red 240Z entry that they 'swore' had an L24 in it, and was a 240Z...
I commented to them "You really should grind the F54 off the block, then!"
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When an LD28 is $170...it kind of makes paying $2000 look a bit foolish, no?
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Yeah, in first and second I can bang the next gear at 6500 because of the gearing's mechanical advantage, but once you hit 3rd gear with a stocker L28, you will be running through the traps on a 1/4 mile well before upshift time to fourth, somewhere around 90mph. You will notice the loss of power above around 5500 at that point, and realize you just got to get to 6000 to be able to upshift and still get some sort of decent pull out of the next gear....
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If you aren't doing it on a regular basis, it's not worth the hassle IMO.
Leave earlier, and pray...
Or call 'Supershuttle' and send your bud off with them, and a bottle of Bud for the ride (put it in a vernor's ginger ale 2-liter bottle, they will never know!)
He's happy, you don't deal with traffic both ways, and if he missed the flight, Supershuttle is the recourse!
Win, Win, WIN!
;^)
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Most of the rock crawler guys love EFI as it's much more resistant to fueling issues at extreme angles than something with hinged floats in it.
Proper Surge Tank will go a long way to making an EFI unit 'stall proof' at 45 degrees. Some carbs will either die or flood out at that kind of approach/departure angle.
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Hey, it was as much to see if the 'octane booster' really did anything at all, and to confirm something other than filling my tank with 100 octane VP Racing gas (at $7 a gallon for COMMUTER DUTY) would indeed solve the knockies.
If the Octane Booster didn't work, the double-check would be gritting my teeth and doing a 100 Octane Fillup. I mean I do it for MSA Weekend, but doing it to merely drive to and from work is...yeeech! Kinda over the top, eh?
Just had to confirm that there was nothing mechanically causing a problem that wouldn't be cured 'no matter what'---more data supports more logical and pertinent conclusions.
I mean, the stuff was effectively adding $1 a gallon to my cost of fuel. Had 'OFF ROAD USE ONLY' emblazoned all over the can, so I felt real good putting it in the tank to drive to work. Like running C16 'just because'!
"I commit my Weekly Crime!"
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Your conclusion was about in line with my reply: marginal oil allowed the forces to lunch one lobe...while others may not have failed...yet!
I think you understand the forces at work here, now.
Sinister Forces.
I am Dyslectic anyway ZDPP ZDDP...MEH!
One reason I go for the ZDDP is that I lived through the Phosphorous phase-out in heavy diesel oils for Landfill Gas in the early 1990's. "New Oils" came out, different formulations where the oil manufacturers touted this new package with superbatches of this or that to work 'better in your specific application'. Long story short, the high phosporous Pegasus we got from them didn't last WEEKS in the engines we were running, and we went back to Good Old "Blackstar 450" which when we were runing low acid fuel went for a year. Then it was down to 6 months as the acid in our feedgas went up. Eventually we were getting TAN (total Acid Number) of 4 within a quarter (three months) of running. It was at that point I started experimenting with various 'additive extender packages'. The Oil OEM was upset, they mentioned it in every Oil Analysis. But fact of the matter was through close oil sampling (weekly), and additives we were able to go back to 8000 hours on our oil changes (we're talking over 1000 gallons for an oil change, plus around 12 gallons per day of normal 'consumption' while running!) All we did was add that portion of the OEM additive package that was being depleted by our high acid content.
Additives generally are NOT something I will add to the oil, but when it becomes obvious there is a problem due to OEM Additive Packages being either deficient, or depleted, it's a way to extend oil life, or make it so damage (in my case it was bearing etching) does not occur to the engine.
I believe ZDDP is a required additive if you can determine the additive package is deficient from your oil's supplier.
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You want a nuanced language, try negotiating with Japanese, or Chinese.
Understaning what they are semantically saying is one thing.
Understanding what they are meaning, culturally and functionally...is something totally different.
"Yes" doesn't mean "Yes", they just said it because it's what you wanted to hear. Getting upset with them when the deadline is not met doesn't do anything except reinforce within them their preconceived notion that you aren't in control of 'rational understanding of how things have always been done'!
"We Digress..." LOL
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Seafoam has been around for eternity...where were you Daeron? LOL
It's in my 260Z right now, matter of fact!
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The camshaft profile on the L28 is less agressive than on the L26 or L24...or even the L20A. It will have peak power around 5300 rpms, and shifting above 6300 is pretty much a waste of effort, especially after the first two gears.
If you have a different camshaft that is designed for higher rpms, the L28 will rev up slightly higher and still make power. But it's a limitation of the cap profile. You won't get much more revving from it, stock.
Cast pistons limit the terminal speed of the engine to 7K for longevity reasons should you get radical ideas about a camshaft that pulls to 8500 so you can bury your tach...
Our Bonneville LSR has an L28 that runs to 8500+, you can see it on you tube by searching on the words "bad day at el mirage"
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Update on the 260 Retrofit to #5/6.
I Seafoamed the engine via tank of gas, and will Seafoam in the intake this weekend---this will remove any 'deposits' on the back of the valve that may be contributing to any detonation I am hearing.
On the tank of gas after the first Seafoaming, I have added a full can of NOS Octane Booster, and from what I can hear, the Detonation has gone away entirely. I will test again tonight on the way home, as it's another scorcher (95+) on the way home, to confirm that a 'boost' in octane will also solve my detonation issue.
Then I will probably be sent out of the country till it's cold, and I will have to wait a year to see temperatures that will mirror what I currently experience, but lets keep our fingers crossed that I get a chance to do the mod and report on the detonation results.
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I have my SDS magnets in the outer ring of the flywheel, with the mag pickup installed in my bellhousing.
That is an outstanding place to have them! Speaking as someone who brke off two distributors in shunts on-track, I was bound and determined to figure out a place that would not be affected in such minor accidents where the radiator kisses the front of the engine and wraps around it.
I settled on a flywheel based setup similar to what Chrysler used on the 2.2 engines. Anybody else who uses this setup is a Genius in my opinion...
/Threadjack/
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DeNada, Amigo!
I'm not trying to P.O. anybody, having 'been in his shoes' I kinda have sympathy for the monumental task of communicating what exactly I want to convey to people who don't speak 'my' language. And my attempts at other languages...let's not even go there! "Ice" "Thanks" & "Massage" I have down...after that it gets really sketchy!
In the field, technical stuff can some times take (I am not exaggerating) weeks...
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What you may want to consider is to install some sort of metering valve in the return line off the surge tank, that way you could test various pressures.
Come to think of it, simply putting a backpressure regulator for a HOLLEY on that line and adjusting it to keep 3.5psi in the surge tank would be pretty much set and forget...if you happen to have access to one of those.
I don't know how the Stillen Z32 regulated pressure in their surge tanks, but I know they had four pumps for each bank of cylinders! I'm thinking by looking at their tank, they ran 'some' pressure, and quite possibly more than one would suspect to help push any entrained air up and out of the top. Pressure imparts flow through an orifice...
I had a Carter N/A V8 pump for my surge tank, it was set up to automatically regulate to 3-4psi, and I could hear it shutting off at Idle (high bypass back to the surge tank, probably overwhelming the 1/4 line I had on there). At WOT I'm sure I never shut off, and have no idea what pressure I was running in the tank then, but at idle mine would climb to 4psi at least.
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We run the old Haltech Digital Display on the dashboard, in the driver's line of sight on the Bonneville Car. If it's not where it's supposed to be (far right) during a run, the driver will let off and the rest of us pray he saw it quick enough...
Red/Green/Yellow much easier to discern than a dial gauge that you shouldn't be looking at during WOT sessions...IMO
Bad Compression
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
Adjust your valves, and hope you didn't nick the top of the piston and bust a valve guide/bend a valve in the process.
BTW, what does "Fine" quantify to for the other cylinders?