Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Frank I think has addressed the 'relevance'---syntax, speech patterns, and not being a 'native speaker' all contribute to a question that may not meet a 'native speakers' definition of 'full disclosure'.
Your definition of 'all the relevant information' may be considerably different than someone from another country, culture, or even social background.
My point was that the important thing is wether the relevant information does get conveyed. Jumping on someone and making cracks about their presentation is poor form IMO, and smacks of ridicule just because someone is not a native speaker.
Could you converse in written German and phrase a sentence as completely? Dutch? Malay? Farsi? If not, then consider what it must be like for someone who comes from any of those countries to ask questions in English...written English at that. Not everyone speaks English around the world, and though this board is predicated on a basic English Knowledge---I don't think you are suggesting that people who arent fully conversant in English Bugger Off and not bother us here...but in effect that is what (from what I saw) your post above as doing.
Focus on the questions, and the solutions, and far less on the form of the delivery. You seem upset that it took a 'half dozen posts or so' to get what his aims are. Perhaps that's because it took someone actually answering his question to have him refine his aims. You really missed an opportunity to note for him that the L26 Bore is the same as the L24 Bore, but then again the casting for an L26 may be different than an L24 so is it really pertinent information that you provided in the reply to him initially? Your post was probably more relevant to my statement later on overboring my 260Z for L28 Internals to keep it numbers-matching. An L26 shares the same bores, but is it an L24? Do we know that?
He asked about sleeving as an alternative---you hadn't answered that regard. I did, and he further replied what his logic was for asking the question in the first place...after he was informed that indeed people have bored to water jacket and sleeved these engines successfully in the past.
I just see it as a bit over the top to get so upset that you post something like you did without any consideration that it's not a native speaker of English posting the query. Maybe its because I do this all the time in my job that I understand the difficulties of conveying highly technical information to people of different languages and clutures, and so have more tolerance than someone who never has had to do that.
Would it have been better if he posted the full question in Dutch? German? Would anybody here have been able to give any help?
For someone bending over backwards to accomodate our demand that he converse in a language that is easy for us to understand...I think the least we can do is be a bit more understanding that maybe we will have to bear with them as they fight for the words to use to convey what they clearly know in their own language, and translate it into ours for us.
As a native English Speaker, I am grateful to find someone at a plantsite that can speak English to assist in my job overseas. I think we should be a bit more grateful that the effort has been made, rather than critical that the effort was not perfect out the gate.
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The Zinc Phosphate sounds like a real prblem and you have me convinced to address this issue. However, I don't think it explains one cam lobe versus many or all cam lobes. Remember the other eleven look great!
That simply may be a case of an obstructed cam spray lobe. Just because it's spraying now doesn't mean it has always sprayed! I have seen little blobules of RTV obstruct spraybars and not get dislodged causing a cam lobe failure. With all the oil blowing around, it runs for a while, but it wasn't until idle that you started hearing a 'squeak-squeak-squeak' from the valve cover. Heck, I've seen sludge block off spraybars...but it's such a solid buildup internally it doesn't get dislodged.
A blob of something, a chip of metal, you name it... It can get stuck in there, and then one day (after the damage is slready started) gets dislodged for some reason or another, leaving no trace of it's prior existence.
I worked a job in Timmins Canada where a cap chip off a 3/4" drill was floating around in a large equipment oil spray nozzle for close to 30 years before the wear was noticed on the gearing. Then it was hell to figure out 'why it wasn't there five years ago during the last inspection'---The only reason I found it was pulling inspection covers and checking the spray pattern. Depending on how I stuck a welding rod into the oiling nozzle, it could have a 'proper' spray pattern, or one that was seriously compromised. It all depended on which way the chip decided to get stuck when oil flow hit it.
So don't discount the possibility of simple dirt/swarf from inadequate cleaning before initial startup. Or a possible improper heat treat on any of the sliding components (rocker arm probably most likely) as the precipitant cause of the 'single lobe failure'. And adding along that line, with oil insufficient in properties to protect an already marginal component it could be a 'combination' of oil and inadequate componentry on that lobe position as well.
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Just a query, I see 'RRFPR' mentioned, do you mean manifold referenced FPR, or one with a truly rising rate?
After torque peak, pulling fuel results in more power, I understand staying 'safe rich' up at the top end, but you are still on the verge of trailing black smoke out the tail pipe and are grossly rich on the top end.
Which is kind of why I'm asking about the RRFPR---that will play hell with VE tables and trying to get the Megasquirt to fuel correctly under boost as your fuel pressure is variable across the orifice, and you will inject more fuel for the exact same pulsewidth at 9psi boost than you will at 5psi boost because of it. Meaning your VE tables usually skew to the lower numbers the more boost you run---which is not the way it should work!
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Cam Bucket Bores can be sleeved as well.
It all depends on how much money you are willing to spend to keep an engine or part from being 'scrapped'. If the engines complete are $4000, then spending $1500 to have everything blueprinted and line bored/sleeved back to specification may be worth it if the heads are not available separately for a considerable discount. We're talking about costs to recover bores, if you do one or two that shouldn't exceed $100 each. And if this cap or that were to be damaged, similarly you can index off the undamaged bores and repair one or two for a similar ammount.
So $400 to reclaim something that might otherwise be considered 'scrap' is probably even economically viable even if the heads are available for a comparable price---you end up with a head you know has been checked and that everything is to specification for that repair price...not simply getting a 'it ran when I disassembled it' used part.
I will check with some of my military friends on that gas-path cleaner. We would literally leave carburettor bodies in that stuff over the weekend without any damage. It's very mild even in fully concetrated form.
If you have ever seen Amway LOC, that is kind of what it looks like, but I don't know if that is the same thing or not. (er...or the Canadian Equivalent of Amway LOC...)
Obviously preventing etching from occuring is a concern. My comments are more geared towards a repair to a head that had something happen like a cam break, or lost oil pressure and seized this component or that. There is a point where reclaiming it may simply be not feasible.
http://www.zok.com/products/products.htm
http://www.turbo-k-direct.com/productinfo.htm
http://www.macraesbluebook.com/search/product_company_list.cfm?Prod_Code=1799550
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2225/aluminum_cleaning_a_small_shopx2019s_perspective.aspx
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Whichever you can hook to the laptop and datalog, would be my general suggestion. Datalogging is invaluable.
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The issue of grenading is as much from extra weight at the outermost edges as an unseen structural flaw.
Let's not kid ourselves here, you can't do stupid things like try to make a stock flywheel 5Kg. You can make it 7KG, though.
And when you do this, it's always wise to do magnaflux inspection of the core you intend to use to make sure nothing is latent in there to cause a failure.
My 7Kg (what I refer to as a 15#) lightened stocker has seen upwards of 7500 rpm on occasion, though usually it's shifted by 6500. It was on the car when the Nismo Clutch and Pressure Plate failed, and I had to take a chisel to break the marcel off the face of the flywheel to remove the clutch disc. It has taken over 40K miles of my abuse, 5 MSA Auto-X weekends (the first five, when you were getting in some cases 30+ runs per day!!!), and dyno time that checked RWHP to the 350 range.
Does that mean I would keep it on there in real competition? Not on your life! SFI 3.1 rated flywheel would go on there in a heartbeat! For me, the above conditions are what I am terming 'street use'---if I'm going to go racing, I'm spending the $1000 and getting a proper competition clutch and flywheel assembly.
But just because a stocker is lightened doesn't make it inherently any less safe than the stock unit. And given the way you lighten them at the outermost edges, one can make the argument that a lighter flywheel with no inertia ring is safer than a stock unit simply because of less stress risers and exponentially reduced centripital loads on the core metal.
For the load imparted to the flywheel from the ring gear during starting of even a diesel motor, do you really think that ring needed to be that thick? When I see it, all I see is extra weight at the worst possible place on a flywheel. And the exponential forces it will generate compared to one cut as I described.
Again, it's not how much weight, but where! Those rough casting surfaces make me shudder. If they are going to cut it, make it safer at the same time. Leaving rough unmachined surfaces seems anthema to a professional machinist given the little time they would take to do that cleanup.
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There indeed is a stud girdle available for the L-Series. Japanese, of course.
There was debate about it, of course, but the component does exist out of Japan.
http://www.grit-tune.com/part.html (About 3/4 way down the page)
This is the thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123513
The discussion was about a 'block brace' which the Hondas use. The product exists for some reason, may be a competitive environment is a bit different than short bursts or someting in a club racing environment? Sniping at a man who competitively races GT350 Shelby Mustangs at LeMans (and if you've visited his linked site should reveal a slight bit more knowledge than most here regarding high-end competition in motorsports) should be poor form even in the land of Oz...especially given he's posting in a second language (of several he speaks). Perhaps dribbling is a better way to work up to it---Do you have a comprehensive solution to his query OZ, or are you just standing on form and principle as protector of ettiquette? I'd worry less about form and more on solutions, personally. Just my opinion.
I mean, you did see his second post where he refined the question to encompass sleeving right? That's a big clue that 'maximum bore' means 'maximum bore'---the only limitation would be sleeve major diameter impinging on block head stud integrity and desired sleeve wall thickness. If you consdier an 86mm bore of the sleeve, +3mm walls that would give you only 92mm...and there are engines (L28's out there) that are bored to 90.5mm and running on the block's metal, so the real question is when using sleeves, would the extra 0.040" cut to go from 90.5 to 92.5mm impinge upon the stud integrity...there is a possibility that with an L28 block you would still have a dry sleeve situation with a 92mm major diameter sleeve! Meaning, the L24 Architecture would support that as stud spacing did not change between L24/L28 Bores. The real question, as Bryan pointed out, is 'what is the core thickness around the L24 Bore'? That will determine if the sleeve at a 92mm major diameter (and an 86mm Piston Bore) will be wet, or dry. It's been done in Japan on smaller cars to defraud the inspectors to keep a vehicle in the 2 Liter Tax Class while running an L24 internals set. The art died out in practice by the late 80's due to Shaken allowing motor swaps, and the advantages of the larger displacement of the L28 out of the box without any expensive machine work. But if you are required to run an L24 Block for class requirements....
Ad, I think the sleeve will work cut as you propose---I believe the bore on the L20A's was cut in similar manner to be able to use the L24 Pistons in the Diesel Liners. The block is really rigid. And the earlier blocks are tougher than most of the very last production models of the L28 anyway---metalurgy changed for cost reductions once they altered the cooling jackets. A stud girdle wouldn't hurt when doing it. Nothing like finding a broken crank to ruin a day at the track!
I'm going to have to check with what is on the schedule, the people in Madrid jsut sent an (untranslated) e-mail and from what I can gather, they want hands-on technical assistance again. So I may be 'in the area' sooner than I anticipated. Then it's just a matter of making my wife upset as I 'take vacation' in conjunction with another overseas job! LOL
She will be upset, because she finally got her passport re-issued! He he he he he!
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If I had the time to find it, gladly. I'll put it on the list of things to do. I was looking at the 2+2 Roll Bar up in the rafters just the other day thinking "I got to get that down and snap those photos for Stealth Z and the bunch..."
From the photo published, I can say that I believe it is 17#...it has a very heavy ring under the flywheel. The Japanese will cut right under the flywheel at a 30 or 45 degree angle with a radius at the 'flat back' of the thing---they will not leave all that metal at the outer edge of the flywheel. I have seen some that cut the ring gear in half from the non-lead-in-edge for even more weight reduction...
That you can see 'Japan E30' is also a sign that they didn't cut nearly as much as they could have. But in that area there isn't much advantage---what the Japanese Machinist explained to me back in 86/87 was to leave that area relatively thick (behind the friction face), but make sure you get ALL the casting roughness off to preclude any chance for stress risers. So they skim cut till smoooth, then a little deeper to get some weight reduction.
They would also get rid of the 'hump' transition to the centermost part of the flywheel around the crank flange, using a straight angle cut and generous radius. On the crank mounting area, they would skim cut to remove the casting irregularities.
The pictured flywheel would be considered 'heavy' basically they machined off the inertia ring, but not very agressively at all. They left a lot of metal there that does nothing but slow down acceleration.
They could have done this to it as well:
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i say ld28t
Find one in the USA! I missed the option to bid on three LD28T's as well as LD20T's which I wanted for the 510 and the Z. I would much prefer to use the LD-T's from the start, but finding one is nigh near impossible.
And the guy selling LD's over in Southgate is catering to forklift replacement market, with pricing at $2000 for a USED engine. I can pay for the shipping container and fly to Japan/Europe/Australia and load it for that kind of iffy pricing.
I mean, I don't know if they guy actually sells any of them, given the fact you can get LD28's from JY's at the most for $450, complete. Just insane pricing...I was born recently, but not yesterday!
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Only two things I note:
"Recirculation Line"---there are two, one internal and one external, and they go to the inlet side of the pump.
"Heater Core to Pump" line should also be on the inlet side of the pump.
I only make this note because this past weekend I was assisting with a Toyota 18RG Water Pump Swap, and indeed they have lines that go to the pump volute, AND others that go to the inlet of the pump---what is present in those two areas is quite different!
Basically, adding the internal bypass line and making the other two lines all go to what looks like the 'lower radiator hose line' would be more technically correct.
"Gnaank gnaaank! Lewis, the Alpha-Betas took our pocket protector collection and set on fire!"
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Burns Stainless also has a engineering service which they will lump into the cost / credit you for on purchase of their collectors and tubing when you construct your header.
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That makes the assumption that the 537 rwhp pull is the one he's referring to in relation to the 658 number. It was you who assumed a 22.5% driveline loss.
With as many pulls as JeffP has made, he is wont to cite numbers he has 'backup' for, but in some cases the dyno doesn't capture this run or that because the operator made an error in selecting which mode to run in, or simply was incompetent and didn't 'save run to log file' as simple as that may sound...
Which is why I said at the outset of the claim that making assumption on numbers and calling B.S. is even more pointless.
Like I said, unless drivelines have some magical way of putting power into the rear wheel number, Jeff is being conservative in his claims, and I'm too damn busy to framegrab Hi-8 Video frames to suit naysayers.
The first post never should have been made terribly rude and sarcastic no matter which way you read it---the second post (if that was the 'real' purpose as stated) is the only one that should have been made in regards to the numbers.
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Yep, and plan on making a big deal of it as I go to the Referee and get my BAR smog-check exemption sticker in the door jamb as well!
40mpg is 40mpg...
It's a 280Z anyway. Meh. If I had a ZX to sacrifice, I'd do it instead with PS and A/C since the Maxima had all that crap. It makes it nice in a commuter car. Donor only had 250K on it, should be good for a couple of more miles. Pretty clean too. I just hope the I-Pump is good, they had a boat primer bulb where the filter/purge should have been on the fenderwell...
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Probably...
Don't see why not. Lathe, parting tool, 5 minutes...new configuration!
Last I checked through Nissan, it was something like $22 new.
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Generally when a cap or seat is galled from a seizure of FOD ingestion, the common practice is to simply clean and grind out the affected areas, heliarc in replacement alloy to be proud, and then line-bore indicating off undammaged bores on either side, or better still off a blueprinted dimension with the head jigged in appropriate machinery.
Older cylinders heads have been repaired this way for years. On L-Engines the bores can be turned oversize and bushings manufactured and shrunk/staked into place. Then you simply punch your oil holes in as required.
If the boring procedure goes wrong, you simply reweld, and re-index and do it over. It's aluminum...you just add more! LOL
In the VW Industry, there are a load of cheap tools that clamp into the main bearing and cam bores for various turning operations powered by an air drill motor! Many of these tools revolve around cutting bearing diameters larger in the center mains for Type IV bearing/jounral use on custom cranks, or double-thrust face bearings being installed on the camshaft bores instead of the 1/2 face that stock employs. Ideally you would do these things on a mill with a nice rigid boring bar, but a couple of bearings with a moveable boring head cutter and an air drill and many people have made/saved/reclaimed a 'thrashed' VW case that the OEM said was a 'use it and throw it away' kind of part. And that the tooling STILL exists to this day when the cost of a whole case assembly is only around $349 is a testament to people who want to keep what they have in operation and not buy a new part.
OEM's are notorious for not making fixes available cheaply. The Aftermarket will fill that niche soon enough. And if you have a good machine shop, that kind of repair should be no problem. It's all a matter of how you phrase the question many times.
/Threadjack Warning/
"We Digress"
LOL
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You would be surprised how much you will get ripped on just the LD28 crank alone.
How so? I just bought a complete LD28 engine for $170 plus a $40 core charge (for which a Rusted lump of L26 was returned)...
Heck, the Four Speed Autobox that was on the back was another whole $90 (plus $20 Core, for which a Seized Lump of L26 Jatco 3N71 was returned...)
(A million thanks to JeffP for sacrificing his 'find' for my daily driver fuel savings!)
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More Boost achieves the same horsepower without trick parts and one-off components...
Not as snazzy when it comes to benchracing, but from a practical standpoint 'horsepower is horsepower' and from an engineering standpoint I would think the lower the rpms it's achieved at, the better as reversal loads go up as speeds go up...
Is there a particular reason you need to turn 7000 rpms (i.e., Bonneville Top Speed Trials, Trap Speed due to gearing, etc) or what? If it's simply horsepower you are after, turning up the boost will achieve the same results far cheaper.
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LD28's are good for more than just the crankshaft. Next time you're in there raping a perfectly servicable diesel for it's crank, pause long enough to pick up that tasty oil pump drive they have. No long spindle on it at all... Just enough to drive your oil pump!
In your frenzied rush for crankshaft bliss, you overlooked that tantalizing tidbit just waiting there to be massaged...
I digress...
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'is it possible to have 300whp on a 3.1L N/A carburated z engine without going to robello or another engine builder.'
Andy Flagg built and assembled his 0.040" oversized L28 in his garage in Clairmont putting out specific power like you mention.
Twice...once on a 2.8, and then a 2.0 L6 that made 205RWHP.
No Rebello, no engine builder except Andy...in his 'garage', behind the rental house in Clairmont.
As John C said, the trick is in attention to details.
I don't know about needing any special rods unless you have some really lightweight piece that you just gotta have. The stock rods adequately prepped are more than adequate for that kind of power level.
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Yes, the Zinc (ZDPP I think is the acronym for the specific ingredient) is crucial for older cars with a high sliding load in their valvetrains. OEM's have seemingly seen this as well in some of their 'factory rebuilt' engines. More and more OEM's go with rollers, and Zinc is a 'bad for the environment' kind of thing, so API standards have changed over the years to accomodate the Environmental Issues. For us with stone age stuff, we're stuck. Diesels have high load inherent in their operation, much more so than our engines, and theirs is the last domain of ZDPP Rich Lubricants out there.
The 'run it for 3000rpms for 1/2 hour' is an example of a non-hardened lobe run in specification. This is for cams that are not nitrided, induciton hardened, or otherwise adequately treated to give the proper rockwell RC Hardness level on the cam lobe itself. It's a 'work hardening' situation where you run them like this to put heat into the lobe and get a surface hardness. This was common when I was going through apprenticeship training, but as far as I know this is more of a domestic engine (American V8) than import thing to do. This goes to reading the cam grinders breakin recommendations and following them to the letter. If they say 'do it' who am I to argue?
Far as I know, Isky hardens their cams after grinding and also puts a coating on them. And talking with Ron directly, he will recommend if you have a good regrindable Nissan Japan Core, to send it in for regrinding rather than using a new cam billet.
Paeco in Birmingham AL has welded 'Paecolloy' lobes and journals to their cams, cranks, etc. They offer a lifetime warranty on this hardfacing alloy, and for an engine where there is limited accessibility to spares, it bears considering. I would be interested in knowing if they would weld up a CWC core with this hardfacing alloy, and then have it ground... Hmmmmmmmmm...
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There was a guy selling lightened stockers out of Japan. A Friend bought one, then took measurements and did a 'half diagram' with radisuses, dimensions, etc... It's buried on my desk someplace. I don't know if he ever had photos taken of it, but I suspect with his diagram and taking it to any competent machine shop you could replicate it for around $40-50. That was the going rate in L.A. at Griffins Machine in Paramount when I last did a run. Some guys on another board did theirs mail-order through the same place...and with postage it was still cheaper than for the one being sold on e-bay.
A photo won't show you much unless it's the front side of the flywheel, that faces the engine. That is where all the work is done. Instead of being 'ring gear thick' or thicker, it's undercut to where the ring gear is on a small teat of metal attached to a flywheel that is cut down to a fraction of it's former thickness. Looks like an HKS, Fidanza, or Kameari flywheel, only slightly thicker near the crankshaft mounting area, and in the frictional area.
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Woah, that rear mount is almost ideally situated for the setup.
You said there was clearance between the engine and the firewall...
Hell, that's almost 'turnkey'!
LOL
"The concrete truck broke" so no pad this weekend Frank. But I am planning a concrete marathon on the holiday weekend coming up---by next Monday evening, I should have concrete to the fence.
Then some digging, and final pad pour to tie it into the roadway and I'll be 'whole' insofar as a driveway. A driveway what can take an empty 40 foot Hi-Cube container parked on it... (hint, hint! No more working in the dirt and getting the forklift stuck in the ditch loading cars!!!)
Did you get me 'Nino The Plantation Foreman' foto-message on your celphone?
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The rally suspension had stiffer springs to raise the car...that is about as basic as you can get. The original rally cars did not use coil-overs, just a specific strut/spring combination that resulted in raising of the car that much. In the worst case, cutting of the spring perch and raising it an inch or two would give you more height, as well as move the lower spring perch out of the way of the tire inner sidewall...
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I only saw the accident as a result of the 'crunch' sound made during impact---I was looking the other way for traffic coming s.b. on normandie when I was pulling out. When I turned, I saw a red light above the intersection, the windshield in the air, the Z 2 feet off the ground doing a 360, and the Tacoma bouncing off into westbound sepulveda traffic, which was stopped for the light.
Two other people who were in cars that witnessed it said the Tacoma ran the red light. One person in a Toyota made a statement to someone on the street, then drove off... At least two people stayed around, along with some Group Z people. I had to call his wife (8.5 months pregnant...) and let her know he was O.K. (relatively). If you want to see what happened, there is a post at ZC.C in Car Talk about 'Always wear your seat belts' that contains one photo, and a link to some photos I put up on CarDomain. Once EMT's and Sheriff arrived on scene, I went and grabbed my camera and started snapping photos.
The car, as usual, is stored in my back yard now.
Fuel Pressure Drop When Hot
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
What is the temperature of the fuel in the tank?
With todays' fuels and the pressures they operate at, there is a possibility of inlet/suction side cavitation of the pump from gas bubbles flashing in the inlet to the pump---and that drops fuel pressure.
Is the surge tank pressurized to 2-3psi, or is it basically a 'atmospheric' NPSH that is going to your main pump? May want to restrict the bleed-back line from teh surge tank to the fuel cel to elevate the pressure there and see if that helps.
If it does, then it's a fuel-heat/cavitation issue.