Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I would check your actual operating temperature. And also this has to take in to account the type of driving you do...and if your system is working properly in the first place. Oil temperature is not necessarily related in a direct correlation with the water temperature setting. Generally is can be noted they rise equally, but different under some conditions.
As I have stated, the cold start is all OUT of the situation by 177 F water temperature.
My car is a Fairlady Z, there is no EGR, as a matter of fact, the EFI system on it is from a 1976 Federal (non Catalyst) 280Z.
You don't give any numbers, where is 'where it should be' and how does that compare to what I've been getting since...about 1990?
I can't count how many 160's I've put into cars without any negative impact on fuel economy. Not to mention that Nissan offered a 170F thermostat for standard fittment, meaning to me that the range of temperatures seen during running with a 170F thermostat installed would have to be FAR away from any influential skewing of the EFI system.
So from that, one could logically deduce that if everything is working correctly a 10 degree change in thermostat operating range (from 170 to 160) should not have any appreciable effect--if any.
Actually, from what I've seen when dissecting OEM EFI setups, most have fueling back to normal in the 155 to 160F water temperature range...that being considered 'normal operation' in most cases.
Nissan uses 177F for the thermotime switch...meaning that is when the cold-start will never actuate on cranking, and the EGR will be enabled given proper conditions. My thought on this is that Cold Start Enrichment follows along with most other OEM's in that fueling is run to 'normal' due to emissions concerns well before EGR is enabled. And that would be around the 150 to 160 range. Easily sufficed by a 160 Thermostat's operating range.
I know starting cars sitting with the hoods open in the desert sun will give some strange operational troubleshooting issues as the thermostat housing heat soaks to around 140-150, and the rest of the car is only 100F. And this causes coughing and spitting, like the engine is running lean.
Knowing what multipliers I use on my standalone, REAL enrichment (the fuel mileage affecting kind) happens below 120F. Once you are above that point, you can start the car and run it on normal fueling with no problems.
I know my 260Z is a BEAR to start below 80F with no starter system engaged. But at 110F it fires up and drives away cleanly.
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Shipping them to L.A., home of insidious environmental regulations will get you triple plating for about half that. Looks ggod to me, and far better than what was on the OEM.
I think LA Bumper and Chrome is the place that does em...
Generally it once was $125, now its about $250 a bumper. My 'vair was done in 91, and it's still great looking finish, living outside and unprotected.
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Egads!
My .02...
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Cool, that tidbit about bad solder joints in the box will be filed in my vault!
You MAY want to get yourself a late-model ZX Distributor assembly. It's a drop-in for what you have, and I ran my 75 for months till I found the correct transistor unit for mine (from a California 77 model...the 75 I had was a JDM FairladyZ!)
Would make for a nice roadside bail out should the need arise.
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Work smaller areas. Cover the applied area with a garbage bag to keep it from evaoprating.
Once the light ends evaporate the stripper is not nearly as effective.
And if it dries before you get to removing the paint, it will adhere like you wouldn't believe...and then you ed up getting machanical stripping disct to grind it off.
Work in smaller areas, give the solvent time to work and penetrate, and cover it to keep it from evaoprating. Each of these things should really work together to give you paint that you should be able to use a plastic spatula on and just flick off the metal---leaving undisturbed fresh metal underneath.
Anything you use, including the scotchbrite and metal strip thingies will leave marks you will have to contend with later on when the topcoats and primers start to shrink and reveal the scratches.
I'd cover the plastic pieces, or remove them entirely, as well. THe paint stripper can do nasty things to plastic...
And WD on the car is a no-no. It WILL get into the pores of the metal.
As mentioned above, once you are cleaned to metal, use an etching type EPOXY primer to seal everything. You can always remove it for spot repairs, but the Epoxy Primer will not absorb moisture like normal old lacquer primer does.
In 'the old days' you would spray whatever lacquer topcoat you have left over in the guy on horizontal surfaces if you had to store the car outside for any period of time. Looked hideous, but when the dew forms in the morning, it just soaaaaks into primer, and you ALL have seen the primer car with all the horizontal surfaces with rust poking through the fresh-looking grey primer...
Epoxy Primer kinda stops the need for that kind of topcoating.
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In the factory injection and most injection systems, there is added fuel mixture when the engine is cold. If the sensor for the EFI is seeing a cold condition, the car will burn excessive fuel.
I would disagree on the 'right on the money' portion. A 160 degree thermostat should not make any difference unless you are making VERY short trips VERY frequently in the day, and likely then fuel mileage is shot anyway.
I run nothing but 160's in all the Z's, and if you know the settings of the stock EFI system, you will be able to follow the following explanation.
Cold start is COMPLETELY gone by the time the engine reaches 177 degrees This is in theory, it can be either way, but the 'official' word is 177. TOTALLY OFF, as in nothing is on the enrichment circuit. EGR is enabled, and above this is the temperature the engine normally operates with a 180 thermostat.
What you get with a thermostat is a cracking temperature, and a full open temperature.
A 180 Thermostat starts cracking anywhere between 5 to 10 degrees either side of the rated temperature, and will not be fully open until at least 10 degrees above the rated temperature.
So what you end up having is an engine that runs up to 175-180 quickly. If you have radiator and flow capacity sufficient the thermostat will be somewhere around half open, or cracked to maintain a stable temperature between 185 and 190F. If it can.
With a 160 thermostat, you crack around the same region, and with the thermal outuput of the engine running with a load, will generate a running temperature of 170. My experience has been that this is 'close enough' for the computer to not use ANY of the 'cold start' parameters, and fuel economy is not affected.
What WAS affected though, was my underhood temperatures! I rarely seen underhood temps on anything over 180 now. The coil is a full 25 degrees cooler. Same for the distributor and I notice that the 'heat soak' shutdown restart problem inherent in the EFI S30's is FAR less of an issue.
I have heard over and over again people saying that running a 160 theromstat shoots your fuel mileage in the arse because it makes the car run on 'the cold start circuit'---while that might be true in theory in practical application (and given the wiring harness condition of many cars) it in effect has no proactical effect on it!
Running a 180 thermostat, or even a 190 will exacerbate the 'surging and hard hot-start problem' by a magnitide. Things start cooking under the hood with those thermostats in, and I hear pinging under light loads like going up the I10 grade in Palm Springs. The car runs noticably hotter on the gauge, as well as with an I-R scan.
Truthfully, I run 160's in the SoCal summertime, and a 170 when it comes time for late winter as it helps heater efficiency.
Carburetted cars it's a no brainer! With the quality and terrible vaporisation problems in most of today's fuels, running a 180 thermostat in 110+ heat just makes the fuel rail and float bowls boiling hot with radiant underhood temperatures.
When averaging 80mph, towing an 800# trailer, with three people in the car, using a 3.9 differential, and early 5 speed, I averaged over 22-23mpg on the interstate. Slowing down to 65through Wisconsin netted me 25-26mpg. In town anywhere between 17 to 20 was what I got using that same combination.
With a 160 degree thermostat.
How much more do you think I would have returned with a 180 or 190 in there? I know driving across the Desert Southwest would have been far more adventuresome due to fuel vapor issues! As it was my 'floor temp light' came on once on that trip---driving for 16 hours a day will do that I suppose.
My 260, on a similar trip years before peaked at 27mpg through Wisconsin, and got 24 on the freeway as a minimum, save for the section from Oglalla NE to Iowa, which averaged 19mpg at an average speed of 1XX Mph...I udnerstand that decrease in economy. That was with a 2.6, late ZX five speed, 3.7 gears, and a car loaded so heavy you couldn't see out the back, and two people in it.
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Yep...
And if you take some alcohol, mix in some dry ice, and swirly it around, then put it down the center of the valve guide (after heating the head in an oven to around 150F) the guides drive out much easier. If you try and use a press, unless you have a jig set up to put the guides 90 degrees from the point of force, you stand a good chance of breaking the guide off right at the head/guide juncture in the port...
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bjhines, I was looking for a reverse threaded jam nut for the other side, but could not find one at Home Depot. I wanted to use it for exactly what you mentioned, taking out the slop.
Still, it is a nice tight fit but a second jam nut would be recommended.
McFadden-Dale, Bo...you know that!
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I agree, I had my driver made out of USAF Aircraft Specification Steel, and case hardened back in 1985...
The drawing from Nissan was VERY specific like Bryan said: NO RADIUS! Cut STRAIGHT with the bit so it fits the guide snugly.
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This is a self-built board?
Has the build procedure changed to where they aren't running the checks with the stim as you complete each circuit? Allowing you to troubleshoot as you go before things get complicated?
As stated above, caps polarized in some cases banding, marking, or longer leg denoting +, resistors are unidirectional.
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My assumption for the hot ticket elcheapo acquisition would be the former Chevrolet NASCAR engine that this one replaced...
I mean, that's probably marginally acceptable for our purposes here, right?
Marginally...
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Dyamtiapm?
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Kinda Reminds me of the P65 Nissan Intakes on JDM vehicles like the Leopard and Cedric. They were on both L20E and L28E's.
Runners wrapped around under the plenum, around the outside, and actually airflow entered the runner on the top or on the valve cover side of the plenum. Someone posted some photos here, I'm sure. There is a removable piece on the plenum.
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Blowing past their radar traps witht he front wheel off the ground generally got their attention, but that was usually the last time they saw me. A near wreck at the end of the week convinced me to sell the bike and put my superhero cape away.
LOL!
Transmute "Front Wheel" with "Skis", "Kawasaki" with "Rupp 600Magnum Nitro Free-Air" and Fullerton CA with Tawas Michigan, and the legend of the "Red Racer with the Black Suit" lives on!
I wore no cape, though.
And it took two winters (and selling the thing) for me to be done with those antics.
John, you are a bad, transcontinental influence. Simultaneous Civil Disobedience, coast to coast!
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I'd go with rope in ONE cylinder...
Putting it in TWO is asking for a bent valve.
Granted while there may be two cylinders at TDC at any given time, one is 'both valves closed' and the other....well...
Let's just stick to sticking something in ONE cylinder to lock the engine.
Or use an impact wrench! Even the Cygnus Impact works well enough! LOL
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Oh, there is another alternative involving the starter, but I'd suggest steering clear of that method...it goes the wrong way!
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You are correct Tim, the stockers are around 19-21# if I recall. 170 to 270CC/Min something like that (N/A and Turbo). N/A cars driven by a standalone seem to like Turbo Z injectors without much adoo...
V8 injectors are far smaller than sixes-hence the 14# number.
The SDS ECU should have enough resolution in pulsewidth to get a decent idle at 550's. Megasquirt doesn't have a problem with the Supra Injectors, and my HKS ITB setup ran fine with Supra Injectors (440CC/Min) being driven by a fuel-only SDS unit.
I hope there is a big cam in that thing. I got the HKS ITB setup and the SDS from someone who installed it on their stroker motor, and ended up terminally getting around 17HP more (at 6500rpms) than he did with his Clifford Research Manifold and Holley Four Barrel.
His loss, my gain. Though I did pay a $1600 premium for his efforts over the cost he sniped the HKS units off E-Bay from me (but I got the fuel rail, injectors, and SDS unit...LOL).
At any rate, you should be able to run the 550's with the SDS.
And I agree, the 14# are smaller than the stock N/A units. Come to think of it, they are smaller than the L20E units! They were 17# if I'm not mistaken.
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My brother and his friend thought they would be 'funny' in the waning-light hours of a hot U.P. summer afternoon after a day of fishing, and as they passed a bee's nest they beat the hell out of it and shook the limb it was on to really rile up those bees. They took off, leaving older brother carrying the poles up the trail to deal with 'angry bees'...
But older brother is WISE and keeps his eyes open and does not walk in the woods with his head down...and saw little brother in the act.
So I watched the bees make their telltale spiral as they left the hive... but it was getting dark. I mean, if it would have been later and the sun a bit lower, there would have been NO WAY for me to see the bees swarming.
So I bide my time. The bees go back inside their little paper house. They don't like to be out after dark, and older brother knows this. In the meantime I strip a piece of birchbark. Not peeling it deeply, just pulling off a little loose strip curled along the trunk.
From this, I fashion a tapered plug. I then walk up to aforementioned bees nest, and stick said constructed plug into the hole (door) of the bees house (hive). Bees do not like someone blocking their door. And I can hear the bees saying LET US OUT! WE WANT YOUR FLESH!!!
I break off the branch, and take the poles, as well as the hive up the trail with me. Shaking it and making the bees buzz so harshly I can actually feel the branch the hive is on vibrate and resonate. These bees are pi$$ed!
As I break the treeline my brother and his jovial little friend see me and jump inside the car, laughing. They lock the doors, manually, click click! But the rear window is kinda down 1", and by now the hive is directly behind me.
"Hey Nick, let me in, dude!"
What took you so long? Did you have some trouble with bees or something Tony? (snicker snicker)
"Bees? What bees?"
(Brother's friend stupidly opens door)
At this point, I kind of gruffly rasp: "You mean THESE BEES?!?!?!" While at the same time heaving the hive (about the size of a basketball, slightly larger) onto the dashboard/windshield juncture where it promptly BURSTS open spilling bees ALL OVER the interior of the car.
Now, the rest of this is like slow motion. I slam the passenger's door shut and hold it closed. Brother's friend says "What is tha...."
Brother goes "What is thaaa..."
Then come the screams. Brother's friend tries to open the door, but I'm there, with 340# of angry payback rage holding it shut. They are in a panic. My brother is momentarily at a loss, and is getting stung BIGTIME.
I count to 10 and then RUN LIKE A PIG (hey, let's not lie here....) to a 'safe distance' as they both play "Tommy Boy" and roll out of the car clutching at themselves, and screaming. The bees are exacting their revenge for the two distrubances they had that evening.
As they come up to me STUNG like you wouldn't believe, before they can even comment, I say, calmly: "Shaking that limb wasn't funny, guys. Throwing the hive into a car with two unsuspecting idiots...thats funny! Word to you both: don't screw with me, if you think you know practical jokes, you don't know how far I will go to extract revenge!"
My brother sheepishly says "Dude, he's right. I shoulda known better, he always gets me back!"
Er...waitaminit, sorry, I didn't get stung. Darn, maybe you guys can ask my brother what it felt like. I think he was stung something like 48 times before he got 'free' from the 'bee zone'.
Me, whenever I hear of stings, I think of how perfect that little payback/turnaround went.
Next time I'm up there, fishing again with lil bro, the same friend and a few other guys one of them starts making noises about doing something 'funny' to 'Nicks fat brother' and the kid that was with him during the Bee incident says "Dude, don't even try! You think you got him, and the next thing you know you're trapped in a car full of bees with no way to get out wondering why you ever thought you would get away with it. The guy's an evil genius when it comes to that kind of crap. He's like the devil. Don't mess with him...."
Some time later, some guy walks up to me out of the blue in the Kingsford/Iron Mountain Wal Mart and says "You're Nick's older brother, aren't you? The guy who throws beehives?"
ROMFALOL
Nice to be remembered!
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Curious they move the ports up to near the valve cover flange...and have coolant exiting to a manifold under each intake port for even flow across the head.
Methinks those GMI guys were poaching some ideas of TimZ's L-Engine cooling thread here at Hybrid Z!
LOL
I'm sure Smokey will be happy they finally increased the deck height of the SBC!
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This is one of those things you mark down in your head after the first time it happens to you (for me it was 1979 on a 1969 Corvair Monza...)
PUNCH A REFERENCE MARK ON THE FACE OF THE PULLEY BETWEEN THE CRANK PORTION AND THE DAMPNER PORTION.
This becomes a simple matter of checking with a mirror and your timing light every time you do a tune up (if you mark concurrently with your given timing advance mark...)
I know when I sent my Monza's pulley off to Dale Engineering (er...now I hear they do Datsun Pulleys too! Imagine that, crossbreeding! LOL) when I got it back I filed that slot to MAKE SURE I knew if it slipped again!
Too late for you now if it's slipped, but going forward, if you grab a JY pulley MARK IT before installation.
And yes, a chirp on startup can be the harmonic slipping. Chances are if it IS slipping, filing the mark will show you if it's bad pretty shortly. If you loosen your accessory drive belts, and firmly grab the pully with both hands, sometimes you can feel it slipping/moving. Some times the only thing keeping it from spinning freely is the tension from the alternator belt---I know that's what it was on my 81ZXT engine!
So that's probably the most effective method given your current circumstances: Loosen or remove the belts and crank on the pulley with your hands and see if it's slipping. It should be pretty obvious. And if it's 'moving' but not 'spinning' you know the elastomeric is shot to the point of failure---you shouldn't be able to move it at all with your hands. If you can't move it...you're safe: PUNCH MARK IT and then you won't have to pull your belts again to check! LOL
If it's slipping, it's not good for the crank---it does perform a torsional unloading of the crank snout---without it working there are torsional stresses on the crank that aren't good.
Good Luck.
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I guess I'm missing what someone is defining as a "pillar"...
This would be a 'B' pillar position, and like I said, neither a coupe or 2+2 has a "B" pillar, just some window framing giving that appearance.
Same as, say, a 65-69 Corvair. Looks like there's a thin B-Pillar there, but it's really just a trim garnish attached to the rear 1/4 window.
As opposed to, say, a Four-Door 510. Or an S130. An S130 has a B-Pillar. The S30 in both coupe and 2+2 form is open from the back 'C' Pillar, to the 'A' pillar, the only thing that goes where the B-Pillar would normally be is trim garnishes, and the door's glass framing.
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Drinking, in London, and not even a phone call. All the times I get drunk Frank at the Pub in Amsterdam to hear how great he's doing at poker...and when he goes to a REAL pub in LONDON, we both get the dork-phone treatment!
It's not George, is it. That would make it doubly-bad!
I may have to take it out on the 'portable sheep'....muahahahaha
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It's a beaten dead horse. That there was any response at all was kinda suprising.
The 'advantage' sequential has over batch fired goes to two times:
Idle Emissions, and Ultimate Competition Power.
OEM's use it for idle emissions reductions as injecting precise amounts of fuel with a proper ECU feedback can actually trim fuel to each individual's combustion characteristics. But processor speeds on commercial stuff (OEM) are not that great yet, so most will switch to batch fire once above a given threshold.
Now, for the same reasons at idle it's efficient, at Top Power it has an advantage due to being able to alter phasing between injection and valve opening. Meaning if you can calculate the time it takes the injected fuel to travel down the runner to the back of the valve, you can also time it to fuel only enough to fully charge the cylinder. You return a fuel economy dividend by injecting fuel that ALL goes into the cylinder, and doesn't reside pooling at the back of the valve. F1 kinda stuff.
Frankly, for 99.999999999% of the people driving on the street, Batch Fire works well enough that there's no reason to consider the complexity of Sequential.
Under some conditions, Sequential will offer advantages, but they are extreme cases. And usually it can come down to phasing the injection event in a variable fashion that gives the drivability and emissions/economy dividend in those cases as well.
The aforementioned comment about Camshaft sensor is dead on. To do it, you need to know when #1 is TDC on compression stroke---from that point it's all math.
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There is a manufacturer of beer that sources it's CO2 from a landfill, and each employee is required to sign a non-disclosure agreement before they hire on...doubtful you will find records of many things.
It doesn't mean it's not happening. And yes, I have a signed non-disclosure regarding that. But it's not hard to figure out which brewery was doing it if you ever get a copy of my C.V. and then put 2 & 2 together...
I can't remember if it was here, or at another website that an employee that worked in a refinery commented about this confriming what I was saying. 4% water is not an issue when you cut the bead to 40% anyway.
Transport of Alcohol when 'denatured' with benzine like you mention is not controlled. But ask the guys at the loading docks about the tanker trucks that go out with the tax seals on the hoses' end caps and service/fill connections---that is alcohol being transported under BATF Approval, and if it's industrial, denaturing it won't require a seal. This is just stuff I work around, and I tend to ask a lot of stupid questions because I'm curious. Lots of times, people tell me a lot of stuff under the assumption that I'm 'covered' by the same signups and covenants they are...
Nothing special, it's just I'm around it from time to time because of my job...and the stuff gets 'filed away' in my bin of useless trivia and etc...
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Ya know, he didn't call me at all this weekend. I don't know what's up. Hell, for once it's a 3 hour time difference between us, and he doesn't call.
Make it a 9 hour time difference, and I'll be getting calls at 2AM and 5AM regularly...
LOL
Lightening a Turbo (240mm) Flywheel
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Removal of the "Inertia Ring" is what pays the most dividends.
Regardelss of 225 or 240mm, the flywheel is the same, they just have holes drilled in different spots to accomodate their respective flywheels.
REMOVE THE DOWELS ON THE FACE!
If you don't, chances are good they will be surfaced flat with the face of the flywheel and then...er...yer screwed...
There are other tricks that can shave more weight, like cutting down the ring gear, drilling the outer edges ala Kameari's Cr Moly Flywheel, etc... But the big improvement comes form the removal of the inertia ring.
I have one that was done in Japan, and it's 15#. It acts snappier than the 13# aluminum units sold today. Closer to what my old Tilton 11# unit did...
As for now, even with a Kameari Flywheel, I'm not running to 6K to get a start. If you have a grabby clutch, you will get away with slipping it to get it moving smoothly a couple of times, but once you are hot, it's going to be on-off engagement and you better get the feel of the launch/bog point or you will stall embarrassingly.
I don't think I have to go over 3K for a launch...but I've driven nothing but lightened flywheels in Z's since 1985. On stock clutches I can slip it off idle and get the car moving. IMO the light flywheel drivability issue is overblown...what clutch disc material you have is what makes it untoward. And that goes with any weight flywheel!