Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The problem with cold oil is that not only has all the oil settled to the crankcase, all the particulates in the oil have settled and gotten adhered to the pan! Then when you drain the cold oil, it simply leaves that sludge behind, waiting for the next agitation with hot oil to whip it back up into your new, fresh, oil.
The ammount of oil you will drain out compared to doing it hot, with all oil contaminants in fresh suspension, is so insignificant as to be inconsequential.
But the benefit of draining hot oil with all the contaminants in suspension and ready to come flowing out at a faster rate and lower viscosity is significant.
I don't know of one OEM that specifies oil analysis samples to be pulled from an ICE with oil cold. They want it HOT, because that will give them a representative example of particulates, contaminants, etc without any possibility of them falling out of suspension and settling to the pan.
I, too, am curious as to the logic espoused. "Get out all the old oil" is a rationale, but sketchy at best. "Get out as much of the contaminants that would affect the new oil" is a far better logic to use...and which will dictate hot oil changes.
Always replace the filter when changing oil, as Grumpy stated, it can bypass, and an older filter while holding a bunch of patticulate laden oil in there can also bypass due to pressure drop at a lower pressure than you may think---causing bearing polishing and other issues.
On high-speed rotating compressors, we will change filters only 4X annually. Those filters are sent to labs for analysis of particulates in the pleating. The oil will be sampled every 1000 hours (monthly or thereabouts).
Then again, they are twisting 74K rpms in some cases...and micronic particles can do lots of damage at that speed. When a filter bypasses on those due to plugging, bad things are precipitated...in short order!
There is a lot to be said for John C's comment about new synthetics, or newer oils in general being much more resistant to sludge formation that they have been in the past. The deposits of yesterday were a product of poor ring seal and bad things in the fuel, as well as relatively poor fuel mixture control. It was not uncommon to have to worry about 'fuel dilution' in the days of carbs running in cooler climates and 160 degree thermostats. The good old days weren't...and in many cases today we are much better off dealing with fluids for our vehicles that are much more 'proper' in their forumlation for aparticular application than they ever were before. This goes a long way towards preventing the problems of the past.
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Ad,
In Japan they would use Diesel Wet Liners and sleeve the block on the 1998 cc L20A six cylinder to be able to accomodate L24 internals.
I don't see any reason the architecture on the L24 block would preclude that to give you at least 2.8 capacity with an L28 crank, or even more with the LD crank in there.
The L28 crank in the L24 bore simply gives you an L26 with std/std components. Bored gets you closer to L28 capacity, and with the aftermarket sleeves, you may be able to make a stroked capacity 3.0 Liter assembly. When in doubt, sleeve! LOL
I will likely take this route on the 260Z since it's numbers-matching.
How comes the project from the Pig Barn?
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Don't dis the 'blowing welds on the intake' guys, I'll state again this happened to the Zisizit Super-Z at Bonneville!!!
Their top speed was hapmered on the return run when the welds on teh manifold failed (blew) and the resultant splitting was bleeding off boost pressure...
Maybe someone in the script department at F-n-F actually follows Land Speed Racing. If it came from anywhere, it comes from there!
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I would agree with KTM on this point.
Elecramotive ran a whole separate manifold, but they still kept the thermostat housing.
I know some L-Engines in Boats blocked off the uppoer thermostat housing, but let's not even go down that route---they are turning like 9500 rpms continuous and have 70 degree water supplied directly... no I'm not even going to do it.... No!
"I agree with KTM, let's not go overboard, fix the issue that is present and don't overengineer a solution to something that won't exist in your situation."
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What we would do when I was stationed in Japan was go to the LOX plant on a Friday, and 'borrow' a bunch of CO2 fire extinguishers that were in for service. They all had to be discharged anyway, so that we brought them back empty on Monday made the guys at the e-shop happy anyway...
We would chill the intake manifold and intercooler with copious blasts of CO2. Having thermocouples in the air stream (er...let's not discuss parts soucring now...) to verify you have cooled it down.
This made for some consistent runs relatively quickly. A quick blast across the radiator did wonders for helping keep it cool during long pulls as well.
When they started marketing NO2 and CO2 based intercooler cooler systems for cars in the past 2-3 years, I just started laughing...we were doing this in 1985! I'm sure some other airmen were doing it before us, I know using CO2 to chill-freeze a beer keg on the boom of an MJ-1A bomblift is as old as the hills...
What I found works well is if you can find an old "Swamp Cooler" and them make a custom duct for the front of your car. Put it on a dolly so you can wheel it around...but it's just another huge thing to cart to the dyno. But you can get 10,000 cfm fans that will direct a lot of air into a small area with decent static pressure---far better than what most dyno shops have. And sometimes they want to buy your mostrosity or 'offer to store it for free' after they see it in use!
We put a separate radiator into the Bonneville car for dyno pulls. It is a custom 5-pass radiator that Andy had made to cool his 502 Caddy engine... "It works well" LOL
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I know Bryan, that's why I mention it...
Chris doens't have any vested interest in perpetuating any internet myths, and stands as a recognised expert in crankshaft torsionals... I, for one, would really appreciate his informed opinion about the orders, frequencies, critical speeds, and torsional issues inherent in the LD (or any other Datsun L-6 counterweighted) crank.
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Is any modification required to run the hydraulic pivots to 7000? My 83 ZXT seemed to tolerate 6500 without much ado. Is the extra 500 rpms that critical? Is it a hydraulic regrind or a mechanical regrind---as from my understanding the ramps on the two different cams are quite different.
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Why would line-boring RB Cam Bores be any different than any other line-boring operation? At worst I would think you would weld into the lower seats to restore proper height, and then line bore till true on original centerline.
(Just came first to mind when the comment about 'rendering the head useless' was broached.)
What I used was a Military Chemical that all I can remember was 'Jet Engine Oil Gas Path, NOI'---it was a amber liquid that when mixed with water gave a white appearance, and was injected into the front-end of jet eninges while running to clean the blades.
When used full strength, it would clean grease and grime off aluminum parts like nothing I've seen...and would not turn them black or corrode them. When you had done your scrubbing, you simply washed it off with water.
I posit there is 'simple green' that is not green, that I used at the Natural Gas Company that had similar effect when used full strength. I do know that run of the mill simple green put into either a steam cleaner, or hot-water washer will STRIP aluminum parts CLEAN to bright silver looking without much effort as well. My son was amazed that we cleaned off all the encrusted gunk and grease from his L20B using simple green laid on full strength and simply brushed to loosen the hard baked on stuff, then pressure washed off. Later that day we did an LD28 using the steam cleaner injecting full strength simple green and it did the same job in about 20 minutes of spraying, instead of three hours of scrubbing and working it by hand. I would assume leaving it submerged in a vat to let the chemicals do the work with some slight mechanical agitation would work well.
They sell hot-pressure blasting cabinets now that will put the head on a rotisserie in the center, and blast at 750psi with nozzles, a water based solvent that will clean everything off but QUICK! You can do the same with a bucket of HOT water, simple green, and toothbrushes right at home....it just takes persistence and time.
For blocks I have used easy-off mild lemon scent (no gloves formula) for years to remove baked on grease. JUST DON'T GET IT NEAR ANY ALUMINUM!
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Ya know, with Chris on this thread, it might be a good place to ask about the '7500 RPM Limitation on LD Cranks' comment that floats around the internet all too often...
As if some irreprable harm will come to catastrophic end should someone deign to rev their 83mm stroker L-Engine over 7500...
Just a passing thought...
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180 mph from 37X HP?
I'm assuming "lightweight headlights" refers to the G-Nose? Aero advantage comes from said lightweight headlight modification.
In 1 mile, or half that distance?
Sounds like you should make a run to Maxton and get some trophies with that screamer, they have a 1 mile runup to speed contest...
Certification will put all aspersion casters aside...
But for me... 180mph with under 400HP in a Stock Bodied S30, in less then a mile?
I'm with John C on this one: "Keep Digging that Hole"
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I would tend to disagree about the ball-spring regulator being non-modulating. While it's true the thing holds the wastegate closed till the spring-cracking pressure is reached---after that point it functions normally as a 'seethrough' device on-boost, letting the wastegate do it's thing. It doesn't just pop open and stay there, it will pop and let some air in, then close in a rapid cycle bringing it up to full pressure like any other spring-regulated pressure regulator would do. There is an orifice in there that can be tailored to snub this action on rise, as well as drop in manifold pressure.
What you will see, is increased turbine speeds on drop-throttle as (depending on where you take the signal---mine is at the plenum) when that plenum goes to vacuum, the spring ball (which actually has a bleeder hole downstream to allow wastegate closure) will close and hte WG will close at the rate that the bleed hole will allow. If you feather the throttle slightly, on a WG with no spring valve in it, it may crack the WG slightly, while the spring valve equipped line hold pressure off the diaphragm allowing for faster re-spool.
The spring check-valve functions exactly the same as your FPR: Spring pressure over signal against contolled pressure (plunum).
If you have a bleed hole too small on the downstream side, you can have problems at lower boost pressures (even higher ones) of the WG 'sticking open' on drop-throttle and the turbo boost response going to hell. Small bleed hole will give you the 'open or closed' feeling on boost rise, but will conversely be very sluggish to respond on multiple throttle applications like feathering or WOT idle WOT in quick succession (like a burnout or doing driving tricks).
BAH! It's time for lunch and I have a meetting I have to go to. But I have been a convert to the Spring-Check Style Controllers due to their nice on-boost speedup of the turbine. After boost is on, they should act transparently if their bleed orifice is sized correctly. Valving the orifice on the spring-style will allow you some trim as to how the wastegate closes on rapid throttle movements mostly, but it's really splitting hairs. Bigger orifice will allow some creep over set pressure on initial rise, but eventually it will settle. Valves on the orifice can be plugged with dirt, making for some 'tuning issues' after time has passed...
I have put spring-style valves in all my turbo cars---even if it's only set to stock boost. The torque rise from that closed wastegate makes for much more drivability when you are not downshifting to make threshold rpms. Lazy Bastard that I am, I like this...
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It wouldn't hurt.
The head I have on there now is an L24E N47, changed some time in the past. I have another E88 of proper vintage for it...but 'vintage' is the key. The car is numbers-matching, and my wife will eventually return to driving it so she wants everything looking stock. I will probably not do the mod to this car, but my 73ZT will get it on the new engine, as well as the 71 "Rally" vehicle. They aren't 'stock' by any stretch of the imagination and I'm not constrained by that requirement on them.
Actually, now that I think about it, screw it! The N47 is going to be a throwaway anyway. I think I just might do this just to see how it helps the spark knocking. I got some 1/2" tubing and swagelocks a-lying around the yard. Hell, I need to change the coolant to stuff with water-wetter in it anyway. What the hell. Why not? I'll repost when it's done. I got to do it while it's still hot or we will have to wait a year to see the results! LOL It's my 'daily driver' now so that is in the mix... It has to be 'back up' before any weekend is complete.
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I am here to learn Jeff, please stop taking things the wrong way.
Maybe a different way of stating that would be benificial (to rephrase it, quit putting it the wrong way!). Like putting what you JUST posted in the second followup post instead of posting "658HP??? Any actuall documentation of this?" Sure looks like a call of "B.S." to me. Especially the scoffing way the MAF item was phrased in the same post. Frankly, the follow up post looks like a coverup to the original intent. I don't see any reason the SECOND post could not have been posted originally, if the intent was really ONLY to 'learn'. "Age has nothing to do with it, what so ever." ---That may not be true at all, in fact it probably is more true than you are willing to admit. Perhaps with age comes a tempering of word, and subtlety of phrase that few youths posess.
Just a thought.
The second point is that you are the one with the dyno...so it would be far cheaper for you to do the work and find this out than having more R&D done by Jeff just for your curiosity's sake.
If people are curious, they should put THEIR money where their curiosity is... I know when the Wind Tunnel Testing was in the works, I put my money up...
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>Ok 5% loss through the drive train @ 658hp=625hp 10% loss=592hp 15% loss=559hp 20% loss=526hp I posted a run that stated 537Hp @ the wheels with 509 foot pounds of torque, that was not the final WOT run, so you tell me.
Jeff is being conservative with those numbers and the response. The 'high end numbers' he has dynoed on the Mustang are known to probably three people on the face of the planet, and one of those probably has forgotten them already.
The statement about 'proof' was uncalled for in the first place.
Mainly because the engine is still undergoing development. It was only an 'interim' number to show the progress.
As I recall, there was a goal set of 600 CRANK HP rating at the outset of his project.
I can say, from personal observation of the dyno runs that unless there is some magical way that drivelines generate horsepower (negative driveline loss percentages) I can catagorically state the following: "JeffP's original stated Horsepower Goals for his buildup have more than been reached."
He's 'just fiddling' now, curious as to what other things he can do with the engine flexibility wise.
[/Threadjack Warning]
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That's why mine is in the back of the truck! Hoisting that orange monstrosity along with me was a PITA. I didn't much like the orange jack that was originaly posted about due to a problem I had with mine regarding the hydraulic valve---the star wheel system they used was not the greatest, and mine 'skips teeth'---were they to change that from a star-wheel of a different design, or use the U-Joint like the Aluminum Jack does, I'd be all for it as a stationary jack.
For extra height on the aluminum jack, I use a 4X4 block to move the jackstands higher after the car is settled.
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174 at 4500?
I know with a 3.70 and .74 O.D. 4700 is 125...
So that's a 2.65 Differential or thereabouts. Given the same .74 O.D.
It would be a 2.31 if it's a .85 O.D....or thereabouts...
Who is 'noone' that you've spoken to about the differential. My bud just moved here from NY (Buffalo) and from his exhortations, there is a dearth of knowledge. Have you posted inquiries here about the pieces?
I'm sure some here (including HS30-H) would have knowledge of the parts used in lemans-style racing packages from the early 70's.
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On the speed sensor issue, is this a bolt-in speed sensor similar to the KA Tranny? I know on the KA Tranny it's a simple substitution of the gear assembly to make it back to a mechanical speedometer.
I can't tell from the photos here which type of sensor it is, I'lll take a look next time in the boneyard and see if I can decipher something. IMO I like the e-speedo better as it's easy to recalibrate to accomodate tire and wheel changes. But stock look is nice up in the dash for some, I suppose.
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3" minimum height on this one. I've been using it for 3 years.. got it for $69 on sale.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91039
Ditto, I am on my second one. Someone apparently liked my first one so much, they decided they needed to remove it from the back of my truck bed...
If this had been a 'real' and not a 'knockoff' jack, I would have been much more upset. But I just waited till it went on sale again, and bought another one. Now it sits in the bed on a short length of chain with a lock on it. Sometimes I tether the Rott to it in the back yard, if they take it, they get the Dawg as well.
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But I suspect I'll be looking to upgrade the cam next year...this one was described as a mild turbo cam and I think I'll need something hotter.
A 'mild' Isky Turbo Cam...
That's like saying 'Kind of a Virgin'...
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Didn't hit max torque until 5000RPM. Now I'm hitting the torque peak at around 3000RPM.
Guys with an N/A making that kind of power would accept that first eventuality. Boy, are you picky, Pete!
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No.
The further upstream the MAF is located (meaning closer to the air cleaner) the more susceptible it will be to 'puffs' of air making it get a false 'high airflow' indication and transmitting bad data to the ECU.
You are taking it from an area where there is not airflow blowing on the element. The wheel wells are actually lower pressure.
If you remember a few years ago on GRM 2000 Challenge there was a Z31 with the MAF stuck through a snorkel in the hood facing forward. This gave the car 'Full Rich' when moving. In that case, the MAF could read significantly different numbers if you were driving into a 30 knot headwind than going in the other direction with the wind at your tail. In such a setup, a stiff breeze might indeed make the car run rich enough at idle to stumble. Explain that to someone...your car died because the wind was blowing too hard!
My kid was like 4 years old when I 'Blew Out The Fire' on a Ford Thunderbird. Picked up the MAF and blew into it, car died. Restarted it, and let him blow into it, and he killed the engine as well. MAF's are VERY accurate at reading airflow---this can be good and bad!
This is why most MAF systems have defined runs of piping before and after the sensing element, and why most performance mods center on removing the prepiping and belling a smooth entrance to the MAF (JWT or HKS POP Charger style)---any little change in throttle will cause the MAF to read and richen with these setups. It takes out the engineered deadband in the operational characteristics of the sensing element making it more responsive to changes in airflow.
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Personally, I'd run the .120" pads, as the ratio is better that way, you get more lift.
I'd get spring retainers that allowed that. It looks like you would have to go with cut down spring retainers anyway the way those .240's fit in there, so if you cut em down for .200's why not take another .080 or .100 off so you can use the .120's and get the most advantageous ratio possible?
A centered wipe pattern is 'nice' but not necessarily 'the most performance oriented'... As long as you have 2mm of wipe pattern on the pivot side, I'd be happy with that.
In any of these cases, you will likely have to do something about those spring retainers (Upper Spring Perch) to allow thinner pads to be installed.
Less weight, more revs...muahahahaha!
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That is correct. Electramotive put these cooling holes above every cylinder and ran a paralell cooing header that fed into their radiator or upper radiator hose (I forget which). The later FIA heads had a similar cooling flow with separate manifold. The LY Crossflow heads had another manifold entirely separate in the intake manifold (like the L4 Engines) with three large holes letting coolant out between each pair of combustion chambers.
Nissan fixed this on the FIA heads and the LY, but did nothing on the L-Head as they didn't see it as a problem at the horsepower levels they had in mind for it. The LY head motors were all 320 HP L24's in Rally Use, same as the FIA head, dedicated high-specific output (compared to stock) engines.
Personally, I think many street driven Z's will benefit from the modifications done here to #4,5,6, not just 5&6 alone. My 260 right now is spark knocking (on 91 octane) to beat the band on partial throttle hillclimbing running SU's. Dropping that temperature will help with that issue, without having to retard my spark. I have a problem retarding my spark running premium fuel on a stock setup which is already tuned rich to begin with!
As for the heater being blocked off---that is irrelevant to the discussion. Routing the cylinders to the bottom of the theromstat doesn't do anything different than what is already internal to the head---it just gives it an independent flow channel with less restrictions allowing more flow through an area with stagnant water relative to the front two cylinders. The Water Cooled Turbos will benefit from these mods as well.
When your heater is on, it is NOT giving more flow to that area above the combustion chambers, and it is recycling to the inlet water that has already passed through a radiator (the heater core) so that recycle is not a big issue. Don't cool that water flow and you run into heating issues recycling back to the inlet. The hot water that can be recycled is basically limited to what will flow through an 8 or 10mm line along with a mirrored 8 ot 10mm internal passage. And that is more a function of letting the pump flow during warmup when the thermostat is closed. After that cracks open, ideally those bypass lines would close altogether to allow all pump capacity to go through the coolant system, with no recycle.
In an ideal world, the turbo would be fed water from the cold side of the pump during operation, instead of where it gets it. But after a shutdown, the coldest water available is on the inlet to the water pump, and that goes directly to the hot turbo...and then to the thermostat housing---meaning the hot turbo can act as a thermal siphon heating the water and letting it rise to the water outlet neck...it will get more from the radiator!
Follow?
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"As for the FAN affecting the MAF readings? What about a 80 MPH wind, does that effect the reading, or only a fan?? Hmmmmmmmmmm."
Take a MAF equipped car, idling, remove the air cleaner, situate the MAF element so you can blow into it, and blow into the thing---the engine will bog if not outright die.
On many BMW's now, you can not adequately dyno check their power because they have sensors that monitor airflow through the engine bay and detune the engine accordingly when it shows the car is not moving through the air in real-time.
And yes, an 80mph run down the highway would result in different readings that a static run down the dyno---it would alter the AFR. This is why the MAF's have so much baffling and pulsation dampners built into the system beforehand. Most modern MAF equipped cars actually pull air from the fenders to prevent the very condition Jeff is talking about.
The $5,000 S30 suspension question
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Markham, next time you're in L.A., pay a visit to John Coffee at Beta Motorsports. he has the suspension bits laying around the office to do your suspension completely, and do the swap while you are in the area. Not to mention properly tune it.
He won't B.S. you into buying a lot of junk you don't need, and can give expert guidance toward whatever your goals will be.
I know what I've been happy with on the long-distance driver...but that is beside the point. Talk with John and he won't steer you wrong. PM him, matter of fact, I'm sure you will get an educated reply.