Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I did it, but for black-look no chrome. That was because my flares dictated I reshape the parts that hook around the back of the car, and once I shortened those, it was like...well...while I'm at it. I checked my photos, and you can't see anything against the matte-black of the bumper.
Basically, I welded with a heavy bead, well proud of the surface, then used a long bastard file to get the profile close. Moved to the double cut in a finer grade, then to the black silicon carbide emery paper in finer and finer grades as I got towards flush and once all the other chrome was off.
Once I was down to bare metal the whole thing was sandblasted with fine silicon carbide for a very even matte finish, and then primed and painted.
Much the same way you metal work a car body from the 40's...it's slow work once you get close to the profile. Ask your chrome guy how close he 'needs it' before you give it to him...any low spots or undulations will require him to heavily copper-coat and buff to smooth, usually at an extra charge. Any undulation or divot will show with chrome, and your eye will be DRAWN to that spot forever more... one of the reasons I went matte-black. You can't tell mine from an FRP replica! lol
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You can get the Freez-It at any Radio Shack---it's what they use for isolating components that have failed due to heat on circuit boards.
More unPC people will use cans of Freon, R134, etc...
Anything to rapidy and positively cool something immediately and not a bunch of stuff around it.
I think Freez-It is siphoned CO2 now. In the old days it wa R12...LOL
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Nigel makes a good point to watch: Preignition and Detonation are different things. You will never hear preignition. Things 'just break'...if you watch an engine with combustion pressure monitors in it on an O-Scope you can see the characteristic differences between detonation and preignition. The preignition trace will show the pressure spike WELL above the normal curve before the angle of TDC, whereas the detonation pressure spike will be far less severe, and occur AFTER the pressure has started rising from the point of normal spark ignition (and wellllll after TDC!).
Detonation can be endured for far longer, comparatively speaking, than preignition. People sometimes hear detonation, and will back out of it.
Preignition will occur silently and break things hard on the first or second occurance. The pressure spikes characteristic of preignition are of the order of metal-failure pressures, 10X more than the worst detonation episodes. Simply because of the difference in the timing---one occurs on a 'shrinking' space...the other on one that is 'expanding'... Detonation is simply fast flame travel causing that spike in pressure as the expanding gas simply raises pressures faster than the piston falling in the bore will allow. On a slow burning engine, the flame propogates and gas expands evenly. Add a fast flame front that overwhelms the volume, you hear that 'pinking' as the flame front raises to a pressure point resonant to your hearing. It can occur, yet never reach that point of audible notes. This prolonged detonation can break things, and mistakenly is sometimes attributed to 'preignition' as the damage appears the same on the surface.
Broken Plug Insulators, holes in pistons, melted piston crowns...people will argue each can be caused by either. They are both correct.
Preignition can do that on the first or second occurance.
Detonation will take prolonged ammounts of time to rack up that same damage toll.
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The above info is only partially correct---the last section of the puzzle is where the PCV gets the air it sucks up into the intake through that check valve (see my earlier post for description if you want). That vent on the top of the valve cover needs metered air that means from the tube between the AFM and the Turbocharger. It's a two-way hose. Under vacuum, air will flow through it into the valve cover, and out the base into the intake...under boost, crankcase pressure will be vented back through it to the turbocharger and on to the intake.
As for sealing it, you can heat the pipe with a torch and stick some more solder on it to make it fit 'tighter'---then coat it with some sealant and set it into the block with a smart rap from a 3# deadblow hammer. It should not 'fall out' by any means!
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RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY!
A new distributor/CAS unit will run several hundred dollars retail.
The new ignitor you need will be gleaned from any local junkyard off any newer Nissan (240SX's seem nice...)
To verify the issue, carry a can of 'freeze-it' and when it dies again, goi out and spray it on the ignitor module attached to the coil bracket. Try to restart, if it goes...then you found and confirmed your problem.
If it doesn't...then try the CAS unit with another freezing shot. If that does it, then the CAS is indeed suffering some sort of heat-related failure. But generally it's the Ignitor that gives out way before any of the optical components in the CAS. Newer Nissans DO have a failure reputatation for the Distributors going bad due to heat...but they have the ignitor unit integral with them. My brother just went through this a month ago on his altima. The older ZXT's have separates, and curiously the new dizzys are available in separates on the aftermarket as well---seems the market realizes it's a component failure...and usually not the optical trigger/pickup, but the actual transistor switching componentry (ignitor) the more things change, the more they stay the same. Curiously Nissan only makes the dissy assembly available for late models...at high cost.
The changeover of the ignitor or CAS assembly is straightforward...just remember to get a GOOD GROUND on both units (the CAS has a separate little spade terminal for it, the ignitor grounds through it's mounting bolts, so the metal needs to be clean and tight to work well or premature failure will result.)
If I can talk my brother through it, you can do it...trust me! LOL
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Ridiculous!
I tried linking to the dashboard site in Australia and got a "We apologize the site you are attempting to visit has been blocked due to it's content being inconsistent with the religious, cultural, political and moral values of the United Arab Emirates."
I guess those naked FRP dashboards will condemn me to hell...what was it they had on the TV "the road to hell is paved with passions"? BAH!
Now I gotta revisit this thread when I'm stateside (or at least in an airport with wireless access) to see my Dashboard Porn!
Curiously, Reaction Research's website is not blocked...
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Reading my last post, I'm waiting on someone else to admit they, too "can subsist on Alcohol on a limited basis"...
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You can order the twice pipes for various msa headers. It gives you the option when you order them. I wouldn't think you would benifit from this exhaust if you were turbo.. the pipes are quite small. Probably to much backpressure but would sound good im sure.
Poor guess. Check the flow math. Two 2" pipes flow better than a singel 2.5. Actually two 2" pipes flow about as well as a single 2.75" pipe, so for a turbo in an early car twice pipes would be an easier packaging exercise than a single 3", and flow just as well. Speaking as someone with twin 50mm pipes on a JDM setup that has spun 325+ Turbo RWHP, I think the system is viable in that application. And even packaging twin 2.5" pipes is easier than a 3" single...and outflows it as well!
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It's an untreated pipe. Raw Steel, you put water on hot steel and it rusts.
My advice is to quickly put some heavy coating of BBQ paint on it to try and stop the total 'rustification' of the piping where it's visible at least. Before long you will see that nice rust-coloring over the whole length of the pipe.
BBQ Paint, or any of the 1200F paints from Autozone will work fine if you follow their instructions for preparation TO THE LETTER and give it a SLOW curing as the instructions call for.
My twice pipes (JDM) have been under my 73 since 1985 and the paint I put on then still is there protecting them from corrosion.
High-Heat silver is also a choice many people like...
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My comment about the money is directly related to the fuels viability. Without heavy subsidies, it's not cost effective. For the exact same reasons I stated from my experience in the late 70's.
Without the subsidies, your supply of 'affordable wonder-fuel' will dry up post haste.
The 5-7 mpg was in relation to the 10 to 12 I got using pure gasoline. The single mount 48IDA is a terrible street setup for a VW, but when using alchohol it was dismal. I have posted in the past that EFI will remedy a lot of the drivability problems...but the basic fact remains unchanged: Its' a fuel source that is not economically viable on a large scale without massive government subsidies. If someone chooses to hitch their cart to a horse that is fully dependent on the government's 'constancy of purpose' so be it...I just don't trust the future availability of the fuel. Even in Brazil with a developed Alcohol Infrastructure, their 'energy independence' attained last year was through a massive offshore petroleum discovery, not through some miraculous breakthrough of home-sourced ethanol.
Ironic truth be told, most of the ethanol is hydrocracked out of petroleum chains in refineries because it's cheaper by far... When vodka manufacturers buy in bulk from petroleum refiners for their basic product, and then flavor for taste you gotta step back and look at the economics of it.
What did I learn from my experience? I CAN subsist on Alcohol on a limited basis with motorized conveyances if I have the time to do the refining. And as such that experiment was a success. For a viable fuel long term, IMO the economics won't change. It's energy intensive. Doomed to failure without massive subsidies.
So in that context, the economics surely do play a part in the thread from where I sit at least.
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The linkages between the balance tube, and between the carbs are different between earlier carbs and the 73/74 Flat Tops.
I will buy the Flat Tops from you for a minimal amount...PM me if interested.
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And you know his face looks like a Maserati, a Maserati, it's fast it's hot it's a Maserati, Maserati...it's a FAST one too! That thing's TURBOCHARGED! Got Fuel Injection... Buff it up buff it up buff it up, yeah it's shiny now! It's time to put the old Maserati away, you look for a garage.......you think you see a garage? Hey, waitaminit, the damn thing's open! Get it in there---YEAAAAAH! Wango Tango...
This will continue until my funds arrive. You need my routing numbers herr poll?
Ted Nugent is a V8 guy, just like you Frank! He likes shooting guns...Just like you and Tyson, Frank. See, you two are the same...(Think vigilante scene in the back room of the Surplus Store in 'Falling Down') You are the same... Zyklon B...
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I knew a guy at a slaughterhouse, and got a good supply (read 'lifetime') of slightly used "Cow Magnets" that I have been JB-Welding into the front and rear of the oil pans every time I drop one...
You can hose-clamp them to the oil filter as well...or simply get a big, strong alnico magnet and stick it on the pan or the oil filter---it won't go anywhere as long as you aren't playing 'Dukes of Hazard'...
I prefer to stick it front and rear though...I saw someone stick an external magnet under the pickup screen one time---er... nice thinking, but if anything gets knocked free, where does it go???
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No, from what I know the hyd. will begin to float at high rpm. Also they can "deflate" at any time and you cant get new ones.
Define "High rpms"---most people making power through boost have a power peak below 6500rpms (most definately if they are using the stock cams) so why would one 'need' to go to any higher rpms?
Who voiced these 'floating' problems, does anybody know of anybody who actually did this, or is it all heresay?
I pretty much know the answer, but I have to ask, just to make people think...
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argh... misuse and perpetuation of the 'lag' myth...
I won't even try.
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That was an L28 bored 0.040" don't know if that's quite 3.0... and that 320hp reading was blowing by like crazy because of scored walls...
The 2L (1998cc) is making 205 to the rear wheels, though. All common, standard machining process that has been around on the L-Series for almost 40 years now. Nothing 'trick' or 'spectacular'...matter of fact, very standard stuff. You want predictable, not epxerimental if you're in it for the long haul.
Actually, the L-4's usually make more specific HP than most L-6's because of the ability to rev higher for longer periods due to that short crankshaft. L-6's can do it but rarely do for some reason or another.
Some of the items mentioned in that thread are already under development...er...'elsewhere'...
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JeffP retrofitted a Defi Stepper motor tach to his stock gauge cluster when he started revving beyond the stock tach capabilities... Added a 200 mph speedo at the same time. Looks good to me, stockish. Don't see why that Porsche cluster couldn't benefit from the same style of hackage...
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I have driven further for less...
For that price and even a semi-solid body this really is a no-brainer!
If it was cheaper, I'd take the day off from work without pay and go the same day I found out about it.
Done that before as well!
Those who snooze....loose!
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Sorry Tony, thanks for pulling me up on that one.
I thought that they were the same width, but found this website before I posted.
It may be an australian only thing, or the website may be completely wrong.
Look where they measure width---it's the mirrors, not the body of the car!
That is the reason Fairlady Z's are 'narrower' than the Euro/N.A. cars as well, they have the fender mirrors so the car is measured at the 'fender blisters' being the widest point.
This is one of the reasons the JDM market Z31 Turbos had such funky looking fender blisters---they were abbreviated with a wider 'flange' around the edge to keep them within the 2-liter tax class.
Also on the weight, my 75 Fairlady Z 2+2 weighed 2695# with me (255# at the time) in it, so the weights also differ between markets.
If you want to check dimensions, check the JDM specifications, and you will see they are all within the proscribed 1550 (I think) mm width restriction for the 2-liter tax class, save for the Fairlady 240Z and the ZG---they were already in the '33' Number Plate catagory, so were basically given unrestricted width so the overfenders were left on and homogolated into the specification.
I digress....
As for the questions regarding title and plates, things are different here garvice...waaay different than most of the UK's former colonies. We broke with the motherland before advent of the automobile, so their influence is not as pronounced in registration/transfer requirements as it is with other former colonies. If only they had the '3 of 5' rule here in the USA, I would be a happy man rebodying myriad Z's with good paperwork, but rusty shells more easily replaced than reworked! Technically in California the only people who can 'part out' cars are state registered breakers and similar businesses. But enforcement and public outcry would force legislation change if they decided to actually follow the useless laws put in place to shelter this constituency or that...
I politicize...LOL
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nothing...
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Tony. I had my afm located on the fender bolted upside down. I had the afm boot cut in half and then mounted that way. From what i could tell it had no ill effects. I had the car running perfectly in my opinion.
That's kind of what I'm getting at, position is pretty much irrelevant, and mounting it closer to the turbo will have no effect other than to disrupt airflow. The further away from the turbo inlet, the better.
I have also mounted them upside down, no problems there either. Ianz's car (the maroon roadster) has an upside down mounted AFM right AT the radiator core with a stub of PCV through the core hole, suspended by it and the piping to the turbo...and IT even runs fine.
I mean, I may be missing something in this scenario, but this is a 260Z, so all the fuel lines should be properly sized for a stock setup no problem. Was the alternator converted to the internally-regulated unit from the ZXT? Was the old regulator removed and diode-capped to prevent run-on...
Lots of vague symptoms and a LOT of jumping around grasping at straws. Troubleshooting takes sticking it out, and working one problem at a time. Fixing it properly, and moving on. Lots of people don't like to do it, because it reveals all the shortcuts taken earlier in the conversion process...but that is what is required when things don't run right.
I mean, this whole thread was predicated on the premise that the AFM position had some radically detrimental effect on airflow---and such is not the case. I just can't figure out where 'The AFM not getting enough airflow by the radiator' train of thought came into this at all---just can't follow that line of logic.
Like you surmised with all this talk about PCV Filters being replaced, then part of the PCV System falling off I would much more suspect false air through the valve cover into the intake tract or through the open PCV hose under the intake than AFM Position!
The PCV is a closed system, and 'sticking a filter on it' is not going to make your car run properly if you are still sucking air in through the valve cover, through the block, and then into the intake manifold through the PCV! That's "False Air" and bad in this system. The PCV is CLOSED LOOP. A tube from between the AFM and the Turbo supplies AFM-Metered air to the valve cover, it passes through the crankcase and into the intake manifold at high-vacuum situations---this air is figured into the equation. Under boost, the PCV is closed, and venting of blowby occurs through reverse-flow from the valve cover into the piping between the AFM and the Turbo Inlet. It's a very simple system, and works very well. About the only thing one needs to add is possibly a mech catch-can to do extra knockout duty if you have a lot of blowby on a tired engine...
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That looks to be a tubular manifold, not a cast unit as I was thinking. They made a cast one as well, as part of a conversion kit.
This one is something different. That may well have LHD Mounting Issues. Drop it in and see.
If it does, I got three RHD Cars it would probably fit on! LOL
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Well I guess since none of my S30's were ever OBD compliant, that is not an issue for me...
And the EPA has issued rulings regarding vehicles over 30 years old regarding emissions...
So I would think the vehicles addressed are those produced within the past 10 years and anything else is a biiiiiiiig grey area.
A CNG Lincoln Town Car for instance...All the 'regulated components' are there for a 5.4L V8 conversion (or bigger V10)...and you can't tell me the CNG Tanks from a late-model Honda Civic are any more well mounted in that little crapbox than where they could be on..say, a 1975 280Z with REAL 5-MPH Compliant Bumpers!
Nobody here has an 'Exempt' vehicle, either. Unless you meet some very stringent conditions, or work for a municipality...
NGV Systems on Gothard in Huntinvton Beach has been doing CNG conversions in SoCal with CARB Blessings for years. Maybe someone should approach them with the question.
Then again, these guys are droning on about CARB compliance. What Joe Public does outside of California to his 30 year old classic vehicle is about as far from Governmental Snooping Purview as I think it can be.
As long as you are using DOT compliant pieces, a 'DOT Compliance Stop' would net nothing of note... What these guys are talkingabout is people taking scuba tanks or CNG Tanks from Boats for Cooking Gas and stacking the back of their Surplus Dodge Passenger Van chock full 'o tanks so they got a 1000 mile cruising capability (why do I mention this? Because just such a vehicle arrived every second Thursday at a Clean Energy Fuels Station I tended...)
I think the DOT has a LOT better things to do than do random roadside compliance checks of private individuals doing PERSONAL conversions for PERSONAL use...
Then again, the gubbmint does some stupid things to waste the people's money, far be it from me to say it would never happen. I hope you aren't suggesting you convert a tank from one gas use to another?!?!?!
CNG tanks are integral to the vehicle, and are designed for removal for maintenance, inspection, and replacement. Many vehicles have supplemental tanks added to increase their range between fillups. I know of a lawyer in SoCal that does all his travelling in-state in such a modified Lincoln Town Car. Certified conversion/addition? Who knows, maybe if the DOT stops him he'll pro-bono advocate on behalf of hobby conversion enthusiasts nationwide!
It's interesting how they get on the pre-OEM conversion stuff---like there is some greay area about it since there was no existing legislation regarding it:
Note that, unlike the unregulated "conversion kits" that were available from dozens of manufacturers in the late-1970s through
the mid-1990s, all gaseous fuel engine systems on the market today are engineered and tested to comply with the same tough CARB and/or EPA emissions performance requirements as the large automobile manufacturers.
I got to think that maybe it might be up to me to determine the suitability of the vehicle's application rather than Big Brother. So they didn't meet todays 'stringent oem quality/emissions standards'---neither does my 240Z...should it be relegated to illegality and I be forced to drive a 350 now as my only alternative.
Sounds like a lobby group entrenching their fifedom to me...
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One of the few (?Only?) original Woodstock-Appearing Groups that hasn't drugged themselves into oblivion...
Something to be said for the common sense of a Michigander...
Please help. What is this '70 worth?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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For a matching numbers four digit 70 that price is not considered high in ANY place! And it's a downright STEAL even in SoCal.
That other cars exist for lower prices notwithstanding, for that list of pedigree that is more than a reasonable asking price!