Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I don't recall now which flange was on the stainless steel cast manifold, but given HKS's penchant, I would guess it's more of a T4 flange than a T3 given the state of turbo technology at the time.
Wastegate will be any of the 'sandwich' configuration units Deltagate, Rajay, Old Turbonetics...though I believe the idea was to have internally-gated turbos from HKS to use on the thing.
Photos? If it's hanging the turbo anywhere near stock location, it's universal LHD/RHD though when they were available HKS was more "JDM Oriented" than export on major components like that... It was part of a kit.
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Where is this thread where Tony D mentions he is running a T56 in a land speed car? Can somebody link that for me? >:^(
I can tell you right now, the Bonneville Car has a NISMO Direct-Drive close-ratio five speed. And the Mod I assisted JeffP with was to fit a Tremec TKO onto a T-5 Bellhousing. No T56 in any of that menage of work.
The only thing I would even consider the T56 on is the Turbo Project...and then, it's a toss with the 4.11 gearing we would have to run at the speeds we want. And that's more for torque handling capabilities than anything else. G-Force is making T5 Retrofit Gearset claims that make me stand up and take notice because not having to screw with mounts and linkages has some appeal... as well as 'selectable gear ratios'...
I'm curious as well, why do you want, or have to posess 'a 6-Speed'?
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Do you have one?
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Looks Good Frank!
I even sent it on to Herr Hekendorf who I'm sure will approve...
And to think I was upset that I missed Ted Nugent in Zaragosa whilst I was in Spain, and then in Amsterdam and some other place in Holland that very weekend I left...ON TOP of missing your invite to the Nurburgring AND NOW realizing that there are Dutchies that are Infected like I am (http://www.tednugent.nl/) makes me even MORE upset at not just 'claiming vacation' against the wife's ire and just taking in a few shows and checking out the progress as well as gul;ping down a couple gallons of Dutch Beer at a Loud Concert where I know all the words...
And I really have to wonder if the Rhetoric is toned down while in Amsterdam...This makes me as curious as I am to see the car in person now...and maybe coordinate a Concert Trip in this as well!
Z's, Nugent, and Beer...What more could I ask for? I could die and be happy...
Back to my Reality in Abu Dhabi...
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What is in your tank? Got something blocking the pickup tube?
Blowing air through a filter doesn't confirm it's 'good', either. Simply replace the filter. That's a cheap bit of insurance.
I am still trying to figure out why the AFM got swapped for a Fuel Pressure Issue.
What you stated before was it was at 15-20psi then jumps to 50-55. That is a big difference from 8...and what is the upper end of the pressure now?
The pump bypasses at 60psi...and that's usually around 50-55 at the rail due to pressure drop. I'm thinking a plugged fuel filter, restricted hose, or intermittently plugged return line will cause the jump to 50-55, but the drop to 8 (or 15-20) may simply be a result of the relief valve in the pump not reacting quick enough to something releasing it's restriction.
What FPR is on it, what is it set to, what pump are you using now if you 'replaced it', and why did you swap to an aftermarket rail with 'new' injectors before finding out what was causing the fuel pressure problem.
Anything you have changed can possibly compound your initial issue, and lead to new issues unrelated to the first...which you may be experiencing now.
Best to fix one thing at a time till you know it's good, then modify.
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From the sounds of it, it sounds like simply a stuck thermostat. If it was doing this, and when you remove it the thing stabilizes at 160 at idle with no thermostat, the thermostat was bad.
I use the thermostat from a 1962 Chevrolet Bel-Air with a 327 V8 (and drill a 2mm air bleed hole in the disc if there's not one in there already)...I can buy a 160, 170, 180, and 190F thermostat for that model, and since they are all 54mm units, they fit in the Z-Housing juuuust fine.
Running a 160 degree unit keeps underhood temperatures lower during the summer so the car is not so apt to vapor-lock with the crap-gas they sell today.
So what was the outcome? Doc Hawk made it jump back to the top, now I'm all curious...
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I'm at a loss why you think positioning of the AFM would have anything to do with your issues. I have placed them in front of the radiator bulkhead crossways, as well as behind the radiator bulkhead straight, and never closer to the turbo than they are stock in several S30 conversions.
Methinks your issue is not with the position of the AFM, but in something else allowing false air, or other standard ECCS Malady.
The closer the turbo is to the turbo, the more flow disruption you will have going into the turbo, and the more likely you will alter it's surge line.
Generally, the ideal situation is that the inlet to the turbo (any turbo) will have at least 4 to 12 inlet diameters of straight tubing run ahead of the impellers...so if that has a 3" inlet, the ideal situation would be a minimum of 12" straight tubing before the turbo for maximum airflow through the unit...
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What Class is the Red Evo planning on running in at Bonneville? Widebody kit would seem to make it a BGALT sort of proposition, eh?
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I'm probably a bit jaded to comment enthusiastically here...
I went to TMEN Alcohol Fuel Seminars as an impressionistic and idealistic youth...this was the late 70's when President Carter decided that you should be able to make 'farm use alcohol' for running your farm implements. Well...I made over 500 gallons one summer. Somewhere I have the copious BATF records for that laying up in my parent's attic, if they haven't thrown them out by now... Sugar Beet Based...
Made a dedicated VW engine to run it in my 62 VW Microbus (get the picture here, man? Like totally hollistic, man!). The original engine was 8:1 running on gasoline and got maybe 10-12mpg running a center-mount 48IDA. I used the 48IDA setup because it was cheaper than having to buy two sets of larger inlet needle-&-seat combos to run the alky...
Anyway, after the conversion (simple really in a VW, flycut the heads, or pull your barrell spacers to change piston deck height) I was running 13.5:1 CR and while the engine made what felt like more power, it got...
Are you ready for this?
A best of 7mpg. Driving around town I got maybe 5 if I was lucky. So about half the mileage I got with the pure gasoline engine.
Cold drivability was atrocious, I gave up and converted back as the temperatures dipped closer to the 50's and 40's and used the remaining Alky to make my own "Gasahol" at around a 20% mix of Ethanol to Petrol simply because I got my Federal Excise Taxes back from the gasoline I bought doing that---you had to mix at least 10% to get the rebate from the Feds...and records records records!
I'm sure EFI would change some of the drivability issues, and yeah, during humid August you could see the stuff 'milk up' if you left it uncorked for too long.
If I was going to do something like this again, it'd be with CNG or LPG on a dedicated engine. I've lived with those too, and while I can't make enough CNG from my own personal sources like I could with Ethanol... At least I would retain the identical fuel economy as the original petroleum engine I supplanted.
I don't see Ethanol as any fix for anything other than getting All Dat Money to go someplace it sholdn't be in the first place.
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"Manifold Destiny"
I have an old B&W Magazine Ad of that setup, Ingelese I believe. The above words are all it says below the photo. Been on the wall forever.
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Check out the back of the 81 ZXT Dampner---the trigger wheel for the 81 CAS bolts to the center of the pulley, and there is a ring of bolts (5 of them) as well as a locating dowel to pin the CAS wheel in place. If nothing else, modification of the OEM 81 ZXT CAS Trigger Wheel to 36-2 configuration, or mounting the EDIS Trigger Wheel to the 81 CAS Trigger Assembly suitably modified would seem to be pretty straightforward. Bolting or welding should accomplish what you need.
Check my CarDomain page for some photos of the 81 CAS setup (I think there is a link to it in the Megasquirt Forum)---looks like you could use the original 81 CAS bracketry to fab up the EDIS Sensor pickup point as well, and have some adjustability to boot!
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My comment on blocking the bypass hole in the block being 'bad' is directly related to the ammount of flow the waterpump will produce when the engine is revved off-idle BEFORE the thermostat is cracked.
There has to be enough flow through the engine's bypass circuits to allow the pump flowing freely without cavitation. This is roughly 2 10mm holes flowing directly back to the inlet of the pump. In later cars like the 73 and 74 Z's the second bypass line around the back of the engine was closed off as the engine neared 170-177F...about the time the thermostat was cracking to flow to the radiator.
Note the thermostat has a spring relief function---put enough pressure on it and it WILL pop open somewhat, allowing flow. But it's likely the pump is experiencing cavitation from low-flow before that point.
Put a water pressure gauge on the block and watch what happens. It's interesting, you can see when the pump is cavitating if you have a good resolution gauge with a fluid damped movement. It will start twitching, moving around, etc...and right about that time, if you have a good temperature gauge, you will see the temps start to do strange things: cool off....then rise suddenly, the rise some more...
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MSA and Isky Cams both had them.
Unfortunately, each place only had 8 of the size I needed, so I bought 16 total and shipped 'em off to Frank280ZX in an overnight UPS envelope so he could set up his engine.
They're cheap enough.
But ultimately they all come from Nissan...
If you have a friend with a surface grinder posessing a magnetic chuck you buy the 'thick ones' and simply surface grind them down to the thickness you need. You can do one at a time if you like...
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"That which is not whipping around in a fog near the crankshaft is available in the oil pan for lubricating the engine."
As obtuse as I will get in the argument for installation.
Argue horsepower all you want, but keeping oil in the sump (like polishing the internals surfaces of the engine block to aid oil drainback) doesn't necessarily make more horsepower. It's not all about making horsepower. Sometimes, it's about making the engine live...
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When will we hear it run?
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Coffee has just got to screw with all my plans!
What, now I will have to make my own bullet muffler for fear of internal collapse and fiber blowout...
Damn those investigatibe people with Band Saws!
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Last month I am helped a friend of mine to convert his 280zx to megasquirt (it is up and running fine). After this summer he is going to convert it to lpg vapour injection. He has a 70 liter ringtank in the spare tire location. I am very interested to see how the car will run on megasquirt and lpg. I am thinking of converting my lpg converter system in my datsun c31 laurel to injection too. It's always nice if someone else pays your tuition fee.
.note: LPG stand for liquified petroleum gas. It is not straight propane. It is a mixture of propane and butane. The mixture is adjusted for winter/summer temperatures. (maybe this information is europe specific but I don't think so).
I have been for a drive in the aforesaid converted vehicle, and took a few snaps of the setup. I just don't have them with me right now. It drove well and I did not notice anything untoward...other than you NEED a full-size spare to use the "Ringtank" Xander speaks of...
I don't have time to screw around with it... If I do anything I will drop in an LD28 for the time being, at an out-the-gate MPG of 40, it will easily justify the 10% cost premium over Premium Fuel the 260 currently requires to drive around (and STILL ping on hot days!)
Hell, I may convert to diesel AND be able to run A/C...Maybe in the ZX...
The commercial Fueling Station near my house is currently at $3 a gallon when premium petrol is selling for $4.54...and I have been apprised that the home fueling option has almost doubled (wooo) in price to closer to $.80 a gasoline gallon equivalent. Some school districts have been found selling CNG 'off the books' for the bulk price they fuel their busses with...which is around $1 a gallon equivalent. You just have to know when to show up so you get 'the best fill' for your fueling time available.
The CNG Station on Aviation and 104th by LAX has added a secondary storage cylinder bank, as well as a Sulzer Compression Skid, so it's seemingly pumping a lot more fuel these days... Maybe I will buy one of those Surplus CNG Lincoln Town Cars...
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What? Aircraft Spruce not have anything to your liking?
You said 'Jet Cockpit'---nothing more 'Jet Cockpit' than real aircraft gauges!!!
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"only other thing you will have to look for is that the 2+2 is officially wider than the coupe (But I believe that this is in the bum). So the floors may actually be a little wider."
No, the cars are the same width. The difference is the length added behind the seats for the rear seat legroom.
Everything from midpoint forward on the rocker panels is pretty much compatible. The pinchweld around the windscreen is thicker on the 2+2...but I doubt you will be using that portion of the car...
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One day, I really need to start scanning all those slides to digital format...
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"Its starting to look like a jet cockpit in there instead of a car."
Check out the instrumentation section at Aircraft Spruce for the Westech and other small aircraft instrumentation. There are many combinations of gauges you can have from there, and since some small aircraft run on 12V, they are compatible with automotive instrumentation. I have been using a Lycoming Head Temperature Sender on my VW Bus for over 20 years now....
FAA Approved gauges are not 'cheap' though... be forewarned. Buy the stuff from the 'for Experimental Aircraft only, not FAA Approved' column!
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Neither Does---they are both open.
The biggest obstacle is the form of the glass is totally different and would require structural modifications to the body or extensive fabrication of the surround to fit the coupe.
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Likely the synchronisation of the carburettors is screwed. If you haven't set it, and set the throttle stop screws for the proper idle speed and idle airflow, your carbs will not suck air.
A suction piston will not cause this at idle. You have to work hard to stick a suction piston.
Idle speed screws are for setting idle synchronisation, the screw on the crossbar linkage between the carbs is set for off-idle synchronisation. You need to check both with an airflow meter or mercury manometer.
Read the applicable FSM section, or watch the Z Therapy Video---both should get you through synchronisation and on your way towards the next step in the engines' carb tuning process: Mixture Adjustment.
Why do I say "synch"---when you pull the STARTER LEVER (it's not a choke on the Round Tops...it is on the Flat Tops, though...) you move the jet down and use a cam to activate the throttle plate and move it off the stop the idle speed screw sets it at. If you aren't sucking air with the starter system off, and ARE with the starter engaged...it means you have to open that rear throttle plate somewhat and let the air through.
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Challenger has it. The lid swaps, and if you don't want to go through all that, simply take the little nuts off the back of the "Fairlady" emblem and replace the Datsun 240Z logo on your existing box...that way you still retain the FMVSS information on tires and the key code sticker.
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Is this head Trash?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Being able to weld aluminum, and being able to weld an aluminum head casting are two different things altogether.
Preheat, post heat, stress relief, preload bending, bending to true the head afterwards...
It's not just zapping the thing with your TIG and letting it cool down...do that and the chunks will fall out of the chamber onto the piston crown while the engine's running...
Many L-Heads have been extensively reworked (including in the valve area) without any problems whatsoever (same with VW heads and etc...)
But you want to take the head to a place set up for welding large aluminum castings and heads. Have them repair all the corrosion extant around the water passages as once you're done with the welding, top and bottom surfaces likely will have to be trued anyway, so they may as well have nice properly shaped water passages as well as nice new looking high-quench combustion chambers...