Tony D

They do make oversized helicoils for such situations... I wouldn't trust epoxies in the head for long-term stregnth. I like metal-to-metal interlocking. If nothing else a Keen-Sert would have solved the problem, the next step if the "Helicoil Helicoil" gets pulled out somehow. You pull a keen-sert out, you need to have your head examined! The keen sert uses something like a 1/2-13 outer male thread for a 5/16-24 effective female thread!

All said above. Original turbo map is good to 22psi. Many have gone far higher than that using an alternate MAP sensor. Yacoucci ran something like 35psi in the Busa Motor, at 10,500rpm. Maps are good, and I store every one until I determine if I gained or lost when I g-tech it later. I have Moby's baseline stored with two tweaks particular to my install, and whenever any problems start, I go tothe "last known good run". When I will do the other car, I will start with the tweaked Moby Baseline, and start from there. There REALLY is no reason for a "race and street" map. WOT is WOT, and unless you are using a WBO2 cruise will be the same as adjusted by the O2. With a WBO2, and a switchable output, the only thing I would do with the Race/Street would be to use a race program with midrange closer to 13.5:1 AFR, instead of 16:1. Which you won't be able to tune for anyway without a WBO2... You should be able to easily get a conservative street driving program in about two hours of tuning in the car with someone making adjustements. If you use the utilities for automatic VE tweaking, and datalog you may get closer faster, but in two hours you should have something driving that runs better than the stock EFI in most situations, and have seriously better throttle response.

See WHY it's not moving. i found it hard to make it move when the actuator was attached. I would remove the actuator rod, and see if the flapper moves on it's own. If it does, then the actuator or a signal line to it is your problem. If the little flapper arm doesn't move, then there is something with it, and you can take it apart further if you want to see why. Try soaking it in REAL penetrating oil, and see if it frees up, Once you can move it yourself, then try it again. Not much in that part of the system for failure.

preassembled kits, with preloaded software, and preassembled wiring harnesses!

You can build your own out of extruded 2X4" box Aluminum, and bolt straight through it to hold the box to the front of the carbs, nothing to it.

Eureka!

O.K> THIRD TIME TRYING TO POST THIS! Short and sweet before something happens again. HEI Aftermarket like Pertronix Flamethrower 100mm spark, blue white, cranking and idle speed. No over 4500 dwell and spark dropoff like stock HEI modules. Nissan Module, hard to find on the road, expensive, spark production less than the $40 aftermarket HEI's available!

Guys, realize that the LD engine used later has DRY liners. This means you aren't cutting into the water jackets. I would bet an LD could be bored SIGNIFICANTLY and run on the block iron just fine. As for the "Diesel Liners" used in the HKS 3.5 and 3.3 conversions, I never said I clarified from the Japanese guy that they were from a Nissan. In the day, it wasn't uncommon to cut to the water jacket, and push in a diesel liner to an L20A to make the bore similar to an L24, and with the L24 crank you had a nice little 300HP sleeper that has "L20A" for Japanese Inspection and anyone who might like to match race you...

Not a Dream Destroyer, you COULD do a complete RB26 swap for the cost of a BLOWN UP S20! People that got 'em, don't part with 'em. And they usually have a spare, just in case.

Water Injection has been around for years. "In the beginning, God Created Spearco, and they invented the single pressure switch water injection controller, and it was good. On down the line, Spearco came out with a dual switched water injection controller, ad it was good...." Now there is so much technology available to really truly CONTROL the water going in, it's almost like another system component on the EFI! I started with a single switch Spearco unit on my 69 Corvair Corsa (Turbo) running 17# of boost in 1979. In the late 80's when Turbine technology advanced, 22psi was pumping out, so I got the dual switched unit. I don't know how many tens of thousands of miles I drove on the car, with nary a problem. No intercooler, and a retapered needle residing in a 2" SU providing fueling. If water injection can keep a 60's vintage AIR COOLED engine from melting down, it should work even better with today's technology on an engine with 10+ more years of engineering development, and having water cooling! Sometimes you ahve to tweak stuff to get more power, all other things being held equal (like pump gas octane)...

If you're not sure on the fuel pressure, and you actually remember a reading of 20psi, let me make some guesses: 1) you are using the stock 240Z fuel return line. 2) you measured fuel pressure in the return line. I will almost BET that is your problem if you are running rich! Aside from a disconnected water temperature sensor, people running the small 240 return line on their EFI car is teh #1 reason for rich running. Swap your return line to the Evap line on the left fender well of the car, and you should drop your fuel pressure in the return line to zero, and this wil let you run the proper fuel pressure on the front end. Just a wild guess, but educated guess....LOL

Same with me, I was running key on for a while during my "tribulations". One thing I would NOT recommend is going with an Autozone or Generic module. My first one was only $13, but I had weak spark, really unsatisfactory. Spent the 24$ for the Pertronix Flame Thrower off-road HEI and is started shooting 4" blue-white sparks. I think many of the generic modules are o.k. for a low-revving GM, but for this application, spend the $$$ and get a good HEI unit. After going to the Pertronix, I have had absolutely no spark related problems.

I used a factory dropping resistor from an 81 NA (I believe) which has a big green wire to feed power to the resistor, and six red wires out to the injectors with plenty of legnth stripped out of the OEM harness to reach from almost anywhere you put the relay box under the hood. I grouped the red wires in 123 and 456 batches and attached them to Inj1 and Inj 2. The green wire went to Inj Power, of course. Worked fine for me. I used the stock ballast particularly because it had a single feed line for power, instead of two like some of the Nissan units have---and I knew the feed wire would handle the stock injectors with no problem!

Oh, Extra Code. Beyond me at this point! Still running MS-n-S on mine. Remember the trigger setting will limit your total advance. Mine was firing at only about 30 degrees total when the CAS bracket was cranked all the way up. It will severely limit your advance until you get a proper total advance in there. But you gotta get fire first. That spark says a lot when you shut it down. Means the output circuit is working IMO. I would make SURE all your connections were correct, and if using the relay board that the wires are all securely connected in them also. I lost spark one day, bue to breakage on the stock Nissan wire at the CAS connection for power at the relay box!

Woah! That 5/8" shunt would definately cause some overheating out here in the desert! I used a stock bypass line around the front of the block for the AAR line. I will e-mail you some photos if I can dig them up, Moby. BAH! Moby e-mail me again, and I can shoot you a photo of how I set up my bypass for the AAR water line. Pretty easy, and there are some nice moulded hoses available from AZ that make it all look very sanitary. sharkie73z@yahoo.com

check withthe Ford do Brazil parts bin. They have 100% dedicated injectors. Otherwise, M85 compatible fuel injectors might be compatible. Since you are using methanol, you will be stuck with using the SS parts. Ethanol is less ocrrosive than Methanol. Don't forget the pump is required to be compatible. (Once again, Ford seems to have a lot of this stuff in the parts inventory, but you will have to get chummy with a SoCal dealer who is up on it, since that seems to be where a majority of those vehicles are driving around...) Many guys run oil mix in the Methanol to lubricate the fuel system components.

You are using the 81CAS for triggering the MS-n-S? How did you do your "total advance" setup initially? Did you crank the 81 CAS to the top of the bracket, or move the trigger wheel one position? Mine sparks on initial startup, and if the engine stalls, it will spark again on ign off. It can cause a nice backfire if you have an open exhaust valve and mix in the cylinder... WOOF! Are you using MS-n-S, or MS-n-S Extra (since I see you mention Extra in your first post)? Since you get a spark on startup, the HEI is probably grounded correctly to function.... This may sound INsane, but while I was troubleshooting mine, I plugged in an 82/83 CAS assembly and spun it with my fingers to test the sparking circuit. Don't laugh, it worked!

SK originally used simply rebadged Mikuinis. OER ended up taking the Sangyo Kiki brand and consolidating it. I guess if there are "Design problems" with the original PHH Mikuinis, then OER addressed them (???) But that sounds morte like Marketing szpeak. There was some lawsuits about patent infringement between some of the companies involved since some racing carburettors used WEBER jets interchangably, along with most other internal parts.... That is more to the point of why everybody got shook up... OER's were preferred for blowthrough since they knocked off the Dellorto Design on the Emulsion Tubes for on-boost enrichment and were cheaper than Dells at the time. Any of them are good carbs, it's getting parts when you need them that makes it interesting. I have never noticed any "design problems" with the Mikuini PHH, and they have been running strong on my car for almost 20 (gads!) years now!

Tim is right about EGO enable signals, make sure the ECU is set to NOT correct the fuel mix until the engine is 1) Warmed to at least 160 degrees 2) AT An rpm above, say, 1500 RPMS with a heated sensor, and 2500RPMS with an unheated sensor (OFF-IDLE !) You do NOT want EGO correction enabled at idle, only light cruise. 3) Get at least a heated three-wire O2 Sensor. I used the one from an 87 ZXT in mine, so I can actually get a proper switching signal as low as 1500rpm---meaning I can get EGO loop while lugging at low speeds like 50mph with my 3.36 rearend! With the stock Z and it's one-wire, remember that the stock ECU only had EGO correction in the range of about 2000-3500 before going open loop (light cruise at speed) as this was the minimum speed that would heat the sensor. The 87 ZXT sensor (or any three wire) WILL heat itself just fine at 1500 and give you much further EGO capabilities. Mine is in the EGO loop from 1500 to 4000, below some TPS voltage I forget. Basically, if you are "on" it, then it's out of service and not correcting, and if you lift the throttle it goes in to closed-loop. I set it up like this in preparation of getting WBO2 support with a switchable signal and setting theswitching point to 16.5:1 AFR for maximum fuel economy at cruise conditions. The heater wires for the O2 sensor are easily driven off the Fuel Pump or EFI relay from the MS box. I use mine on the Fuel Pump Circuit, in parallell with the Aux Fast Idle Air Controller so I can do "key on" troubleshooting without warming up the regulator and killing the proper fast-idle response when I finally do kick it over and start it. I rewired the Stock system in my 78 similarly, since I like that function block a lot... 4) like Tim mentions about the further down the pipe you are the longer delay you have in the tuning loop is correct. I tell people "you should be able to see the sensor from under the hood". My N/A setup is in the collector of the header, and the Turbo cars are right at turbine outlet...within 6" at least. My 75 Fairlady is down the headpipe quite abit, near the transmission halfway point, but on that one it's being concealed from the prying eyes of Emissions Technicians (who think my stock ECU and Wiring Harness are actually housing stock components! muahahha, State of California SMFD!) Watch your injector lights. Like I recently posted, I had a similar symptom where it started running terrible after startup. Idled fine but then went to hell. It was alternator noise. If you don't have a filter on incoming power, just consider it migth be a possibility.

timing is relative. If you are going by initial timing as set on the stock system, that is your total timing. ACTUAL timing can only be determined by putting a timing light on it and running it on a dyno. While you may have 24* at idle, the timing is determined by the computer. I don't have my maps in front of me, but the big advantage to standalone like the MS is that you can actually get 40 degrees because the initial is set beyond that, and then you delay it. Anybody actually taken numbers while on a dyno to see where the factory timing bins are really at under boost? Sounds like another "dyno project"!

yeah, that "tune everything on one screen" is a big plus. I get sick of switching between tables and programs. That is a major improvement over the original setup. But I am glad to be driving it to theend of hte street and back without coughing and bucking. Yippiee! Wish I had more time to tune...

As was said earlier, you can build the megaview, and have a four button controller to scroll through and adjust everything in the MS. MS does support WBO2 directly with anothe board you incorporate, and some of the next generation will not need this board. You only need a laptop or desktop to do initial configuration---then you can change everything from there with the megaview. What is the most efficient is DATALOGGING withthe laptop. it lets you go out, and concentrate on holding a load point (say steady speed via and brakes for an rpm, while gradually increasing throttle position) this allows you to go back and see your O2 reactions, and make adjustments accordingly afterwards instead of while driving. In reality, it only takes about three hours to get a very good map into a MS. With some of the tuning utilities and self-tweaking programs you can get REALLY CLOSE TO PERFECTION while simply driving around and datalogging!

You should be able to print any of the pdf document files from Adobe Acrobat. I have Version 6.0 (free download) and I print stuff from .pdf's on websites all thetime. I recall that I couldn't always do this, or couldn't save them either. I also added a program called paperport which lets me save them to another .pdf file on my computer 9via the print command) and hten manipulate them from there. I know this is not a direct answer to your problem, but if printingthe diagrams would help, then it's helpful information, isn't it! I know holding the paper in my hand makes it easier for me to follow wires and routing than watching it on a screen. On the VW's I equipped with the Vertex, the impulse coupling would sometimes have slop in it making initial timing setting a bear. On our engines I would always VERIFY TDC and never trust anything on the pulley---that could cause a problem too. Due to the lag at hand cranks speed, the impulse coupling sometimes would lead people to have the ignition wires installed on the cap out of phase---usually one position off. When it comes to these kinds of problems, I usually walk away for a day, then return with the book and start at step one and walk through it like I never did it before---never assuming anything is correct. Never thinking I did ANYTHING correct in the initial setup no matter how many times I checked it prior. Not saying anything against you, but in my experience, I never cease to amaze myself how many stupid things I have done or glossed over when in a rush or overconfidence! I am a total idiot sometimes (in retrospect, of course!LOL) Good Luck. I know how that goes. I have been on the Megasquirt for almost a year now and finally I drove the car to the end of the block and back. Igniton interface can be trying at times.

Yes, the rethreading depends on your application. If you convert to cable throttle from a 200SX like I did in mine, the throttle quadrant poking straight up from the bolted on throttle works just fine! Just making the throttle shaft prependicular to the ground plane instead of parallell. Then again, if you don't need the SWITCH in the TPS, and otherwise require a Potentiometer, then the 60MM T/B from an SR20 in a 90 or 91 Stanza will work fine just by removing the outer quadrant, and changing over to the earlier bellcrank---it already has a properly threaded and cut down shaft. SAme thing goes for the Stanza unit on turning it 90 degrees, you can hook up a throttle cable that way using stock quadrants, and not use the spacer. But making one is not difficult if you have a drill press and a jig saw! Good Luck!

If you want aluminum pulleys to last for OEM durability, have them hard anodized. The surface finish will promote belt adhesion and power transfer, and if you keep your belts tensioned properly, they will last for a very long time. Most of the pulleys sold through outlets are just polished. A hard anodizing really adds to the durability of the stock. Then again, if they are cut from specific pillets, they are pretty hard to begin with!