Tony D

"I was planning on moving the stock afm between the intercooler and the intake " Simply stated, "Won't Work!" The AFM is NOT a pressure-flow device, it is designed to work against a vacuum applied to the backside of the throttle plate. The housing is not desigend to work in a pressurized environment. The AFM measures raw airflow into the engine from the atmosphere before ANY compression devices act upon it, simply because it's the easiest and most accurate way to measure without a bunch of sensors. Otherwise, there would be some polytropic head computation algorithim to figure out exactly how much pressureized air was cicrulating through...... We don't need that... So long and short: "Wont Work!"

this was not how I read the schematic, the 77 I helped hook up had a four and two resistor setup. But there was still a single power wire, and six wires out tothe injectors. We simply grouped them three and three on the ground side. You group the resistors to the GROUND side, the power all comes from ONE source, even though the relay board provides separate leads for them. You may have them grouped backwards! The fuel pulsations on simultaneous fire are extreme at idle, the only way we got smooth EFI pressure was to alternate the banks, 2 squirts per cycle, no pulsation that was noticable after that change.

92 mm is a very common and popular VW bore. Aircooled FORGED flat-top pistons are CHEAP for them, with rings. So are 94mm Bore. You would have to check pin height, as they can be ordered with a VERY big range of heights for the different rod combos people use in the VW powerplant. But Cima, Mahle, etc all make pistons for the VW in those bores, along withthe spun-cast barrels which you would probably trash.

Actually, Mack, the Dart Heads on a SBC are something totally different. They keep same valve spacing and configuration, as well as having similar water inlets and outlets. Basically they are a "reworked stock head". A more valid comparison would the the DOHC or pushrod 4-valve heads that you can buy for a Chevy. They are almost universally disallowed in most racing sanctioning bodies' regulations due to costs. The SCTA will class that head as a definite class changer due to having more cams than stock, so it moves the cars from PRO(duction) to MOD9ified) where the speed to make a record are sometimes 50 and 75mph higher!

we took some notes with intentions of doing this very thing, I have not reviewed it as of yet, but will and compare to the notes. Instead of throwing stones, we should all help with some experience, to make it better for the poor bastards who follow us. The better and more complete he makes this site, the less we have to repeat ad naseaum to new guys. I say thanks for posting it! It looks great at first casual perusal, and I will be in contact with any photos or comments I have on the site to make it better for the next guy. This is really needed for guys doing this "cold turkey" and having a clear site made p of common shared experience will, in the end, be the best site it can be, and help as many people as possible without them having to come here to ask questions... And that should be the goal. Again, THANKS!

reply posted at ZC.C configurable output, relay, and a solenoid is all you should need to enable it. pretty simple if you understand how the EGR system works. Good Luck.

Yeah, what is the flex unit in the middle of the bottom photo from? It looks like it would be a direct replacement or would work on the Nissan EuroSpec exhaust manifold. What is it's diameter?

Jeff Priddy is running 72#/hr injectors on his JWT setup, and from charting the pulsewidth, MS should have little problem handling those for a smooth idle, so 60's should be a breeze. With the software upgrades recently, the dual table and hi-res tables make humongo injectors possible, if you need that sort of thing... LOL

On the floor? I can barely reach the steering wheel, shifter, and door latch when I am strapped in! I need the remote activation! Arm tethers do that to you...

Canton Accusump! I will not AutoX my turbo cars without one ever again. They SAVE turbos. and if you get the "electric kit" you can use it for prelube also. the nice thing about it is you can turn it off before the car, and then on to post-lube the engine if you want, tooo. These systems have been around for years. I use them for g-load and oops prevention. There are supplementary oil pump kits that will prelube the engine also. There is all sorts of cool stuff out there if you go looking for it. The accumulator on that one looks a bit light, though. I trust my Canton, with my engine's life!

if you are going cheap, use the nissan sensors and use ET4D utility (Easytherm) to reprogram the curves in the megasquirt. If you are turbo, consider the GM open element air sensor, most any GM vehicle in the junkyard will have one in the manifold. It responds faster than the Coolant sensor, though I haven't had any problems as of yet...

is it heat related? Shuts down when hot? if so a can of Radio Shack Component Cooler will tell you straightaway if that is the culprit. If it's hot and doesn't start, spray the freez-it onto the suspect component, and see if it starts then... I got myself home from a road test with six cans of freez-it one day. Advice, when you go for a troubleshooting test drive, never say "Man, it's a nice day, it's running good today, heck, lets go for a little ride!" BAD IDEA!

wouldn't MS-N-EDIS work for the conversion (if you grabbed the 6 cylinder coilpack?)

I just helped Bryan out in Phoenix with his MS getting started, I was amazed how much the fuel pressure fluctuated during "simultaneous" injector operation. 2 Squirts Alternating resulted in ROCK STEADY fuel pressure, and better throttle response (three 46mm 2-Bbl throttle bodies on a home made six runner intake manifold.) Speaking of manifold, did the Exhaust Manifold show up Xander. Man I shipped that a loooong time ago!

Mike K, I couldn't have said it better myself! (or did I?....muahahaha!) I was a stupid kid when I built it the first time, and to be honest was worried about the sounds the car's chassis made. Until I went for a ride in Eric Messley's car (before John C put those un-naturally small seats and belts in it!) and realized "Oh, so this is what the car is SUPPOSED to sound like!" I realized then that I just might be driving a bit harder than the average driver on the street. Just a bit... I swear, I can induce brake fade in a 30 minute lapping session around my block (before the sherrif arrives) now. Having lots of power is fun, no doubt about it, but you have to make the comittment to learn how to harness it properly, or it's a terrible waste. Both of your resources, and your enjoyment. And I STILL SUCK at driving... LOL

The ECCS Plug Configuration is Standardized across the Nissan Line with very few exceptions, as is the EFI (Bosch N/A Standard) plug. One has a provision for 29 wires, the other (ECCS) for considerably more....

Don't even need to do that! The temp sensor for the gauge on the turbo is the EXACT SAME UNIT as on the 240 and the 260Z! The oil pressure gauge might require a sensor, but if you get the right terminal on the two-pronged sender unit for the turbo, it will read the same. You just need to alter the stock wiring harness with a standard 0.250" Female Spade Connetor to fit on the terminal on the turbo sender. One is a switch to ground, the other is the sender on the turbo...

The bunk about putting them in the flywheel is spoken without a thought on the realities of the matter. Chrysler uses flywheel mounted timing items and has for years without any worries. It's a good idea, and keeps the sensors protected inside the bellhousing. I thought we discussed this over beers in Paris.... Maybe they were stronger for you Euro Guys and it affected me less... LOL!

To get rid of heating issues with the Mikuinis, use the cooling bodies Mikuini installed on oh-so-many OEM applications. On Wayne Caulder's 3.2, this totally stopped his percolation problems in SoCal during stop-n-go driving. They are a diecast body that fits between the accel pump and the bottom of the Mikuini Body, and have two fittings on them to allow the return fuel from the regulator to pass beneath the carbs in a cooling flow to take away any excess heat. They work great, I'm amazed many more people don't know about them. A longer accel pump rod was included in the cooling body kit when you ordered them. If you need photos e-mail me and I can send you some if I can scrounge up the sets I have... Also, that stumble off idle may be due ot idle jetting. You mentioned "accel jets" but not idles. Are the idle jets 55.5 or larger? If not, chances are you are going momentarily lean on transition, and a larger idle jet will stop that during light throttle applications.

Cool, so by saying 60degrees, for the first magnet, and the rest at 120, you mean in reference to the first one, correct? This is basically the way my 81 ZXT CAS is set up now. I uplled the trigger wheel off, redrilled the hole and moved the wheel one bolt hole advanced, giving me all triggers 72 degrees BTDC. An odd number unlike a nice 60 degrees, but good enough. Mine works, too! I thought you would have done it over by the starter, also, and have the magnets on the O.D. but I guess this way you don't have to worry about Centrifugal forces. I doubt they would come loose with the epoxy anyway. Good to see another alternate trigger for N/A guys, too!

Yes, I didn't mean to suggest Nissan went away from a bad design. it's just the design was not "customer proof" in the real world! LOL Seems there are people who believe "changing the oil" consists of putting in another quart of "Quaker Maid SA Grade Premium Re-Refined Oil" from the 7-11 when the stick shows it's a quart low. I had an L26 we pulled out of a Cedric once. When it started there was a persistend "Squeak squeak squeak" that we had never heard. Pulled the valve cover to find the #1 cam lobe almost TOTALLY flat. When we restarted it, oil was flowing out of the intake and exhaust squirters on cyls 2,3,4,&5, but only one of the squirters suplying the lobes to #1 & #6. Black Sludge all over inside, terribly messy. But for $7US for the whole engine (because, we argued with the vendor at the time "it's making a bad noise!), what can I say? We bought another head off an LPG powered car for $5 swapped it on, flushed everything out with PD680 in the shop's heated, air agitated solvent tank (ahhh working for the government!) and ran it. As far as I know, it's still powering the same Fairlady Z out in Chandler AZ to this day! I digress...

L6 Camshaft Specs (#273) was a 0.630" Lift, 306 degree duration ground on a 102 degree lobe cnter. L4 Camshaft Specs (#196) was 0.530" Lift, 306 degree duration on 102 centers... There was an L9 also. Forget the specs... That's disgusting, huh? Bad me... Best I could come up with...

Nissan's Prep Manual had the cam oiling orifice in the block enlarged to 2mm for more oil flow to the top end. I have always used Turbo Pumps, and have never paid much attention to the cam oiling. If it has a spraybar, it gets a new one, or at minimum gets cleaned. If it's internal, it stays that way. I have assembled a few engines with both, and have not noted an oil starvation problems. The reason Nissan went AWAY from the spraybar was because of Sludge Formation problems that ended up plugging the outer spray holes. I have seen this on several occasions. But having an internally oiled camand the bar should not be a problem given adequate flow and proper bearing clearances in the rest of the engine. I mean, how many people have retrofitted piston oil sprayers to the engine? If I was doing THAT, I might go only with the internally oiled cam, and plug the oil spraybar. The spraybar can fail and waste your cam, I would not depend on it exclusively for lubrication of the top end.

AHA! Mine is doing similar things. Alllllmost dies after first start, sometimes stalls, then is fine on the second start. Now I know why.

which is why the helicoil oversize would work.Basically they are sized for you to sink a tap down the already stripped hole directly, and thread in your coil, which restores the original thread on the interior area. Either way, the dowell would probably have to come out for the installation.