Tony D

Oh why didn't anybody see this before? Eureka! http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/332490-240-vs-280-rear-valence.html

Oh, and if it didn't pass smog one year and was parked, it's been parked close to 15 years or so... The 260Z hasn't had to pass smog since around 1995-99, which means the used engine replacement is even MORE Credible theory as they were DIRT CHEAP at that point. Or was it 2001? I think I was till on Alabama plates on my 260, but don't remember if it was fees or smog that I was ducking....or simply hadn't changed back yet out f pure sloth...

If this is the car in your signature, it IS NOT the original engine. To check, look on your ID Plate on the Shock Tower, it will list both your ENGINE serial number and CHASSIS serial number. Yours (260Z) will have an "RLS30-XXXXXX" number for your chassis, and an "L26-XXXXXX" number for the engine. If the engine number matches that plate, you have an original "Numbers Matching" vehicle. Nissan service blocks early on came with no ID on them, the pad under the heater hose connection on the head was smooth. Later, once a stock of rebuildable service cores was available, they switched from "Service Replacement Blocks" to "Nissan Remanufactured" engines. If your specs are accurate, your block will be "L28-XXXXXX" meaning NOT original...and if that transmission. Is a five-speed (you don't say in your post) then I got more news: it's not original for a US Market Car, either. Good news: it's a 260Z, nobody cares! The style of writing IS NOT "Nissan Japan Supplier" style, it is Junkyard Cataloging Numbers on both parts. Chances are it was either steam cleaned and marked before shelving or shipping....or was marked up on receipt in the USA by a Used-Japanese Engine Vendor fr stock control. For DECADES in California it was FAR cheaper and faster to put in a low-miles JDM Replacement Engine ($125 at some points, raising to around $425 due to exchanger ate fluctuations by mid 90's, the last time you could readily and easily obtain real "Used Low Mileage JDM Engines -- 10 year point after model run cessation...road tax and Shaken-Sho killed the population in Japan by that point...) than rebuild the original engine. K Watanabe, Tomic Honda, Mapai International were all in competition selling them. Wantanabe had engines from Nissan's test lab with only Dyno Time on them! L20A engines were brought in occasionally as well. I've found L20A/Y70 Head combos in late model Maximas... all look factory stock because thy were...just in another car originally! Chances are REAL good the PO either wanted more power, or went used-engine at some point from overheating he original engine and made he choice of "L28/5-Speed=$600" over "Rebuild L26 ONLY=$900~1200" Again, it's a 260Z, nobody cares. Don't get hung up on it!

You don't NEED VIN plates (once AGAIN "they are easily changed") you title it off the HARD CHASSIS VIN which you show CLEARLY exists! Was the car Manual R&P or power Recirculating Ball? I can't understand what the obsession with VIN plates is....of ANY identifiers of vehicle origin, they are the LEAST reliable. I have seen COUNTLESS swapped plates, so many I can't count. But in only ONE case did I find (On a car with swapped VIN Plates, no less!) a car with a VIN that was bondoed over to conceal the vehicle's TRUE origin. For all the Salk of cutting and welding Hard VIN's to make "the perfect swap" I haven't seen any accomplished on a Z-Car. They simply aren't worth the money to justify the expense. On the one instance if the bondoed over VIN, I was doing what the Official Police Garage should have done...verifying plate to chassis number. It wasn't there, and a pocket knife revealed the ruse... I actually bought the car....once the VIN was CORRECT (only the stamped one in the chassis really counts...) For the others, I've see inspectors accept Dymo Labelmaker Plates! Kinda hard to passably falsify the hard stamped VIN in the Firewall....

I actually pulled out the bottom floor plugs...so the leaking door weatherstrip didn't let water accumulate in the floorboards...

"I will buy a bit more fuel and see if that makes any difference, probably wont." NEVER NEVER NEVER, EVER troubleshoot fuel issues with an almost empty tank. This one sounds like it's gonna have a "Sling Blade Lawnmower Solution" to it: 'tain't gets n'er gas in tchere, uhm hum! You can mail me my biscuits 'n musterd ...

"I knew once I posted that someone (probably you....!) would torch me for it." For god's sake! " Torch"? Grow a sac. Troubleshooting is a mindset. Invariably I have to draw a conclusion that people who can't see the forest because of all the trees in the way are the ones who post these kinds of threads. The FSM doesn't cover popping...??? "The FSM provides little, to no troubleshooting or insight into solving problems. Besides how to rebuild items, disassemble parts and track every single part or electical wire, its not useful for these types of problems" What does Page 58 address, in detail, in step-by-step fashion? You may not LIKE that it entails work to determine what your issue is, but it's disingenuous to claim "The FSM provides little, to no troubleshooting or insight into solving problems. Besides how to rebuild items, disassemble parts and track every single part or electical wire, its not useful for these types of problems" In fact it does. And if you do the checks with proper troubleshooting mindset, you WILL find the answer. The reason most people fail at troubleshooting is they either don't like the answer they get, and want something else to be the answer... Or as a permutation of that, convince themselves it "can't be that simple!" It is, and it can be. That's the basic untold truth about troubleshooting: the systems are usually very simple at some level. When you break them down and check for faults on that level, they become VERY simple to troubleshoot. THAT is the insight the FSM provides. It DOES NOT say "check component" it has you check CIRCUIT (under given conditions, with acceptable and unacceptable result examples.) if CIRCUT check fails, check COMPONENTS of the circuit, individually, with similar parameters and examples. THAT PRECISELY is "insight into troubleshooting or solving problems." You may not like the BASIC ANSWER of "replace component" but that IS the mot basic and effective means of repair and rectification. If you want REPAIR OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES coursework, sign up at your local Community College...this is a book on how to get the car running properly again in the quickest, most effective way. Not limp it along on a starving college student's budget, or a teenager's allowance. Once you IDENTIFY the faulty component, REPAIR is up to you. Troubleshooting identifies defective components. The FSM Takes into account a very low repair skillset, and as a result recommends component replacement. The examples of what happens when unskilled people "repair" these components is self-evident reading thes boards...no need to repeat it other than to,say " most times it ultimately fails in some form or another..." A third permutation is getting to the first failure point and stopping the checks...and going from there, without doing ALL the steps to check all the possibilities or see a correlation between two that may be close to failure which individually don't mean anything but combined cause a problem. The contention that factory engineers with cumulative years exceeding several lifetimes concentrating of failure mode analysis and using group brainstorming could not reasonably be expected to come up with a competent guide to how to diagnose issues in their system is laughable. If "The FSM provides little, to no troubleshooting or insight into solving problems. Besides how to rebuild items, disassemble parts and track every single part or electical wire, its not useful for these types of problems"---it's a failure in basic troubleshooting skills and comprehension on the poster's part. The troubleshooting in the early manuals was specifically aimed at very-low skill technicians who likely never dealt with EFI Previously. As such, the step by step guide of FOUNDATIONAL CONDITIONS/CIRCUIT/COMPONENT Checking methodology is precisely laid out. Skip steps, shortcut, you get the impression that the FSM is useless. "When all else fails, read and follow instructions!" It takes roughly 45 minutes to check the EFI system in most S30/S130 Vehicles. From that I warrant ANY vehicle will be completely diagnosed and have a list of items requiring repair to go frm a yard ornament to running/driving vehicle. From there repeating the process to determine drivability issues is another similar process. And yes, it's generally all in the FSM. Over 99% by my experience. I don't try to think I'm smarter than he guys who built it. I listen to their advice (FSM), act accordingly, and am rewarded with solutions very quickly. I don't celebrate the process of "individual discovery", I don't have the time to waste rethinking that which has already been thought out 40 years ago. Usually when things go wrong, go back to the basics, follow the instructions and you come to a solution. Out hinting the creators usually gets you in a repetitive logic loop of incorrect assumptions and false data caused by improper testing or intuition that has led you from he simplicity of OEM Engineering into a glorified realm of complexities that simply doesn't exist. Fly 8 hours, move a wire from terminal 102 to 103 and call the national service manager to tell him that's the problem, that it was ALWAYS the problem, and to cancel the $5,800 in parts ordered by "the other guy" a few times and you realize people skip the basics, and you just can't do that. When the National SM blurts out "that's on the wiring diagram!!!" all you can do is say 'yes, it is...' First step in that troubleshooting manual under "MD Drum does not rotate" is what? "Verify wiring connections" -- not that wires "are present"... but that 1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2, 3 goes to 3 ... 102 goes to 102, and 103 goes to 103.... Not glamour work, but a FIVE MINUTE TEDIOUS CHECK that solved the ROOT CAUSE: incorrect field wiring. Across industries, it's universal. The steps seem vague and stupid... But when you do them...it works! To say "The FSM provides little, to no troubleshooting or insight into solving problems. Besides how to rebuild items, disassemble parts and track every single part or electical wire, its not useful for these types of problems" is just plain wrong, and unfair to the guys who spent collaboratively man-years writing a manual for people to use to troubleshoot in an effective manner. Page 58 proves the disingenuous nature of such a comment. The side issue that you aren't really assisting Connor solve his problem spewing your problems with the FSM -- it doesn't progress the situation. Obi-Wan came back to Luke in the Trench with a phrase....one I paraphrased and used once with a co-worker long distance..."Trust your instruments, Tim!" In the heat of the moment it gets easy to overthink things. Since that time, now close to 20 years ago...Tim has called me several times laughing as he was out on a site troubleshooting, getting frustrated, at the end of his rope exasperated and the "I hear your voice from that damn phone call at XYZ 'Tim, trust your instruments'...and I just go back to the troubleshooting chart, MAKE SURE everything is set up like it says, and I find the problem!" It's a joke between us now, it was kind of a joke then...but in humour lies underlying truth...which is why it's funny. In 30 years of NOT trying to outthink the guys who made it, and just listening to their advice...it hasn't steered me wrong yet. And infecting others with that mindset has made their lives easier as well! "Connor, use the FSM! Trust your instruments."

"because your turbo is flowing more air then your engine can use" ... " Despite being caused by two completely different things we'll just lump it all together" To quote Andy Duffrein from The Shawshank Redemption: "How can you be so obtuse?" Note phenomenon: flow exceeds consumption, pressure rises, pressure exceeds flow point sustainable for wheel speed present: reverse flow occurs. This is referred to as surge. It was explained that the two phenomenon of natural pressure surge and throttled surge use the EXACT SAME mechanisms to precipitate the surge event: to little flow for the pressure extant at wheel discharge. Regardless of WOT or Mid Speed, they ARE the same. (When you consider the fact that the diesel doesn't even HAVE a throttle plate to restrict flow, and that a dump valve simply opens dumping excess flow, the argument of the throttle plate closing causing rise quickly is partucularly entertaining, but...you said it, not I!) the wheel is simply over speeding and the dump (BOV, whatever) opens venting some flow keeping stable flow over the wheel...you hear it. That's not a surge. Put a gauge on it, see what actually happens, THEN make a determination...but back to the disconnect in understanding: It's the same at WOT, PARTIAL THROTTLE, or any other time. When flow off the wheel is less than the. Minimum flow required for the pressure being produced, a surge occurs. NOT that this is necessarily a surge, as explained previously the bypass valve (or waste gate) may simply be opening to relieve pressure and it's now become audible. Just because you hear air rushing through a pipe doesn't mean it's surge/stall/reversal. Christ Sakes, man, quit arguing your digging your own hole of ignorance deeper each time you post. Understand the semantics here...it's obvious you're not even trying. You're just butthurt for some reason over the correction of your use of improper terminology. Get over it and listen to what's being said and learn something. The reason the post was written was to help educate people like yourself who misunderstand the phenomenon and to help them get their heads wrapped around what is happening during a surge, and what can be done in terms of controls to prevent it.

Piece by piece will ALWAYS be more expensive. I have a heluva time trying to explain to Engineers and Purchasing Agents why after a given point they are better off buying a total gearbox than dealing with a repair. Example at an oil company in Singapore. Repair parts quote: $247,000 Plus 10 working days supervision. Which they were agreeing to do... OR New Gearbox Complete $132,000 plus three working days supervision for commissioning. Took from March to July for them to sink in that they could save money, and get a better product. You will never build a car from the parts department cheaper than you will get it as a whole brought a marketing scam. You don't think they make money on the sale, do you? It's PARTS for the next 10 years man! PARTS!!!

And, uh, no the diesel doesn't have a throttle plate. Acceleration is by injection fuel pulse and timing alteration. Any "throttle plate" on a diesel is associated with an emergency stop phenomenon (cut off air supply to stop engine.) This goes back to the recommendation that people not post guesses.

They are both surge, they both are the EXACT SAME phenomenon, that is what the problem is! Please quit confusing the terms, trying to split them into two conditions which are physically identical, or applying them improperly, you aren't doing anybody any good muddying the terms up using them improperly. By your own words in your last post you don't understand what you are trying to explain. My suggestion to read was so you would understand the proper terminology and physical phenomenon you are attempting to discuss. It specifically explains the two conditions which you lay out, and WHY they are the same. The diesel noise should be a thread query in Turbo/Supercharger really, and not this one.

"HS130-002167"

"The ability to comprehend the English language is a prerequisite for this course..." See also "Nuclear Spark Plugs" in prior posts here...

Muahahaha ha!

Actually, Steve...can you shed insight as to where you get that 90% number? How do you prove that 90% of the people with a problem DIDN'T SOLVE IT by reading the FSM and DIDN'T post here as a result? "I just wanted you to know I found the solution to he problem in the FSM, so I don't need to post a question..." Believe it or not those posts DO exist! But not everyone with an FSM Based solution posts when it's solved. Probably better if they didn't... Replacing the AFM, BTW would have solved the issue if his "3 clicks" tweak worked....just like the FSM Suggests. The reason he had to go tweaking is because someone else was determined that the engineers that built and designed the system were clueless as to how it works, and felt they could better solve the issue and "tweaked" the meter initially...calling for him to "untweak it" later! Seriously, if you think troubleshooting is NOT tracing wires, checking components, I think it just may be you that has little insight into troubleshooting and problem solving! I posit that the FSM INDEED solves 90% of the problems we get here...and the other 10% use something in the FSM as a reference to properly resolve the solution. As fit the FSM "not covering this type of issue"....um...aaaaahhh... Right then! And now for something completely different!

Wyl E. Coyote JATO Conversion

We made 205 at the rear wheels with our L20A. It did not have a square bore. It can exceed 10K. You have an HS30?!?!? Hens tooth for sure Fairlady 240Z... A stock Eurospec 280ZXT makes 200, bump the boost and there you go...no intercooler required, 220HP!

"we have ways of making the deck taller." Muahahaha ha! The job is trying to push me to Olympic Dam during Singapore F1 Weekend... That happens and I spend a two week stretch Bak of Beyond and I'm going someplace for R&R! You were forewarned! LOL

The firewall VIN is the one to worry about...plates are easily changed. The Fairlady z had a VIN Tag plastic riveted to the firewall like the US model, as well as the typical underhood plate with Chassis and Engine SN. No door jamb, nor dash board plate was installed ( though if imported to comply legally it should have one on the DRIVER's side ( right side) The car as stated IS NOT worth even the $1,200! I'd offer half that as a gift... I got a 78 Fairlady 280Z(X) GIVEN to me!

Thesaurus Surge: stall, flow reversal, whumpies, banging the Hammer of Thor, compressor cough, scrap cough, scrap bang, wheel twister.... Using the word "stall" and "flow reversal" as if they are NOT "Genuine Surge" is hat you said wrong. Compressor stall IS Compressure SURGE! As I said, did you read this thread before posting what you did?

" Weird noises when you shift are either blow off/recirculating valves or compressor stall due to flow reversion (and maybe a combination of the two). Not likely to happen on a stock vehicle." Uh..."stall due to flow reversion"? Dude, did you even READ this thread???? You just thesaurused surge... Sounds like a re circulation valve to me. The ECU may hold the bypass way open for the first xxxx km as a break-in aid, nd gradually low full boost later on. Low boost won't make the noise...but the later allowed boost might. I know nothing about the car, but that is where I would leave it.

I use it as a reference as well. Another board filled with morons referred to the Grape Ape Racing page as "anecdotal"! I simply stated it was good to see someone else using this "anecdotal" set of formulas, etc...

"Without Pics"? It's useless, period!

Oh, I got a light flywheel in EVERYTHING!