Tony D

From Evans website: "At extreme cold temperatures the coolants contract and become extremely thick, not becoming solid and expanding like antifreeze containing water." Uh, the way I read that is they DO EXPAND, otherwise they could not "contract"...eh? They mention -40.... Where does this "extreme thickening" begin? Like Arco Graphite "see, it's liquid at operating temperature!" Uh, yeah, how do you pump jello? Frankly, if it "freezes" at -40 as it states on it's website, there is NO WAY I would be using this where I formerly lived! No way, no how! Boiling at 375 is equivalent to EG 100%, which I believe is also a "waterless coolant" but sure as hell doesn't FREEZE at -40!!!

Huh...stupid, but that's DMV! FAQ, Q11 & Q14 Clickety click for FAQ from DMV

My Microbus needs a yellow & black (56-62), though my 66 can use the black & yellow 63-69 (70?) You are saying this is not a continuation of the "year of issue" plate legislation already on the books? That wasn't how SEMA reported it...time to go to DMV.org...argh...

"Speed Warps Minds"

176f...it starts looking. Actually the 1500 rpms it somewhat incorrect. It SAYS that in the FSM, but it is more a function of the ECCS / EFI module seeing a switching signal and really the TPS switch state. If you are up to temperature, and have a switching signal, closed-loop stays enabled! Take a heated three-wire sensor from a Z-31, and WATCH what happens to the lights on your ECCS.... the thing gets into closed loop and STAYS there because the O2 sensor doesn't "cool off" and stop switching. As long as the WOT indication is not on... The mileage on any turbo car can be enhanced in-town putting a heated sensor in, you get into closed loop and stay there in stop-n-go traffic whereas normally you stay n the programmed loop instead.

To the OP: Regarding a pressure relief in the lower hose (inlet) -- don't do it! It will burp out hot liquid coolant when reaching the relief pressure. The setup is generally if you have a low point fill point then you have to "burp from" someplace higher up in the system. That higher point is where the radiator cap goes. You will note many new cars don't have radiator caps on the radiator. They are on some cheap see-through plastic pressure vessel...which is where you add the coolant as well. I made a radiator like the JTR design cross flow with side tanks and no radiator cap. It was on the old Datsun Roadster expansion tank (Corvettes had them too)... All my steam lines went to that tank as well. If you vent steam to the radiator you want it on the hot end so it will condense back to liquid coolant in the process. The caveat being if you are blowing from a head gasket, that WILL push your coolant out the expansion tank, out the overflow line on the exp. tank, and eventually fill your radiator with steam and not water. For this reason I followed "old corvette" tech, and put the steam lines to the high point expansion tank. If it blows over, STEAM comes out, not displaced coolant! And that goes for Evan's fluid as well....get high pressure air (combustion blowby weepy fire ring) and a low point rad, it pukes it all out as you drive along... It's not pretty! Anyway, despite the Evans digression, I think I answered the q's originally posed...

Start searching, my son. FWIW As for 10psi, testing at JG Engine Dynamics done in the early 90's showed the stock system stopped making more power after 10psi. This was a "crank up the boost and see what happens" style of test. All stock car, emergency relief valve lagged shut, and turning up the boost. 10 psi was where no more power was being made. The engine was near 14.7 at 5,000-5,500 rpms. This was verified almost 10 years later by Tyson S. up in MN, finding 14.7 AFR's on his stock dyno runs. Add an intercooler and you radically alter the density into the engine. More air, cooler mean even leaner. My suggestion would have been before getting the new turbo and intercooler, to buy and tune a Megasquirt. The driveability difference between it, and the stock ECCS is nothing short of amazing. That would put you in the catbird seat to then add up to 12psi, THEN an intercooler, THEN a Hybrid Turbo... You got a bunch of parts controlled by a Boom Box from the 70's...Disco (Potato) is DEAD, bro! Ditch the glitter ball ECCS and get modern fuel control... Then worry about upping the pressure game.

Oh, you know what, he DID do AN Flares on that tubing! I remember the swearing.... It was seamless 0.035" wall stuff. If you can the get thinner stuff, it will flare easier, just use a LOT of MOLYKOTE on the inside of the swage area...and use a GOOD tool with the rollers on the cone, it will come out glass smooth on the inside then.

No, as I recall he used the Swagelok fittings for the tubes, and the Swagelok to AN adapters (SS) at the ends where the interfaces were with his existing AN Softlines. He also put a -8 fuel line and -6 return into the stock tank sender unit... My suggestion to anybody doing this is to make the lines in three portions: underfloor (firewall to back shelf upswing), fuel pump/fuel tank section, and engine bay section. For people developing a project, the engine bay configuration may change several times, as may your fuel pump configuration. This allows you to remake and reconfigure the applicable section without having to drop your fuel line and make a break there later, under the car, crap falling in your face & swearing! Plus, it GREATLY simplifies the bending orientation. The complex stuff is at the ends and it's MUCH easier to handle as a 6' stick rather than one 12' long with orientation of every prior bend to worry about. I mean, you can try to duplicate the stock one-piece line and if you can do it in one go...more power to ya! But if you get everything perfect, and make the very last bend so the feed nipple now goes out the inner fender well, instead of towards the engine....don't say you weren't forewarned! And you will end up cutting it at the firewall anyway...muahahaha

Phantom drives the car as Nissan Publications say it was intended to be driven. Paraphrased: At Nissan we believe a car should be able to avoid any potential hazard by having the ability to drive around and accelerate out, away from potential hazardous situations. It drives me bonkers to overhear a "Driving Instructor" use brakes as the FIRST, LAST, AND ONLY method of "accident avoidance"... I was involved in a swoop-n-squat that, had I been going as fast as the "witnesses" said I was going, I would have been 320' beyond the driveway where the swoop-n-squatter was positioned. Had I simply laid on my brakes and stayed in my lane, I would have rear-ended him HARD! But I went into the oncoming lane to avoid the rear-ender (pulled into the street and hit his binders jacking up his rear end!) and started accelerating...resulting in him flooring it and taking me into the ditch by turning into the right side of the car. I should have never touched my brakes, had I stayed on my gas, never lifting, and instead floored it, I would have cleanly overtaken him and been on my way. Insurance defrauding SOB...

100 to 130 KPH will be awesome with the 3.9. Engine right on boost threshold when you need it. The 3.36 with a late gearbox will turn 2000 rpms at 80 kph, maybe 2500 at 95-100, something like that. Around boost threshold for a stock turbo... but it's so doggy compared to a 3.7... and 3.9 might be a bit short, but you would be doing 3-4 shifts at those speeds.

Look at the photo in Post #33, there are some sheetmetal structures in the hood reinforcement that will crease at a defined point. When we hit the Neon, our hood looked similar, we had a SINGLE pin where the stock latch formerly went---why? Because we were cheap! Single Autozone or PepBoys hood pin suitably mounted. Later iterations of "The Brown Turd" used the stock rubber bumper mounting holes to mount two pins at back. It doesn't take much crushing on the front of the hood to buckle the hood there. As long as the back is secured with large-washer decent hood pins it will buckle the hood before it shears or tears out the pins. They tend to deform and move backwards in an accident anyway.... It takes some beating to access them and get them to give up their pins to pull the hood off the car so you can start repairs. Now, you buy some no-name China made crap replacement hood.... I'd look REAL CAREFUL to see where those crease points go. Two years or so ago, some of the European Car Manufacturers bought some 'copy parts' and 'copy cars' from China Market. Suffice to say decapitation and total vehicle debasement in crash resulted. They may LOOK like a BMW 7-Series, but they don't CRASH like one!

Apple doesn't fall far from the tree. Doesn't endlessly boot either. MS SUX

PLEASE go and re-read Post #2 where I said the R200 in the car was a 3.36..... If you have a place to use it, the car responds nicely with that ratio above 100mph (160-200KPH acceleration.) With a 3.9 and a turbo, you will be pressed with an early 5 speed as 200kph is 5300, near horsepower peak, and the later ZX tranny will move that down around 500 rpms. You need more than 200 to punch an S30 over 220kph so gearing becomes tricky unless you make some real power. The 3.9 will get you to 200 quicker but you will have to 'short shift' the ratios. I personally prefer the 3.7 as it allows 100kph with only one gearshift and ready to hit 3rd for the pull near 170, and then again past 200.... The 3.36 pulls the gears much higher, so 3rd is past 160 as well but the turbo cam doesn't like 6500 in anything but 1 and 2, so you start shifting around 5500 to put it at peak torque to pull the next higher gear. It gets kind of boring. Now, bigger turbo, Isky Cam, head work....WOO HOO! 120-200 in 4 seconds in third gear....YEAH!

In the non-us market the 4 speeds came with a 3.70, and the 5 speeds came with a 3.90 Do some basic math and you realize the design speed is a lot higher than you think. I run the morning drive at 3200-3500 rpms with a 5 speed (early) and a 3.7 gearset in my L26, the same gearset in the L28 with a 3.90 seems to be just fine as well. 3,600 highway cruise is not bad... 2,500 is positively boring, and requires a two gear downshift to pass. Bleah!

My 1973 GS31 ứa legally imported, the idiots at the DMV ALWAYS look on the Left Hand B-Pillar for the VIN number, to head them off I put Dymo Labels like I'd seen in the past with other grey market imports... It was five minutes into the inspection before the inspector realised it was RHD. Then he couldn't properly interpret the FMVSS Individual Importation Sticker on the Right Hand B-Pillar (stated date of importation, "1987" so that was the year model the fool wanted to use. That's how I ended up with a replica of the 1973 Tokyo Motor Show 260Z(E)!!! For others edification to reinforce what I'd said earlier: CAR-CHRUSHIN' FEDS Apparently it still is 25 years and not the 30 I stated... But there IS a point where The Feds just can't bother with the background noise. The grey area in which I have always subsisted... Like Bo &Luke Duke.... Well, at least like Uncle Jesse or Cooter...

You were at Syracuse too...you're one of them "Convention Whores" like I read about in Vegas (I was in Vegas Z2K)

If only I was home right now...

Did I see your car at the 2001 Zedaway? Man that was a nice convention...save for the fact they never presented me with the "longest distance driven" trophy as they said they would...

Stainless Steel Electrical Box Knockout Plugs with a ring of silicone work great. I used them on heater core hose holes in the firewall, amongst others. The spring clips have quite a bit of leeway for off-sizing. You can usually get them at Home Depot. Look like these: These are BRASS, but you get the idea!

You and me both, brother... Flushed a pithy John Muir referenced post of mine as well. I'd look to swap components like contacts or say switch assemblies...unless you don't have any switch at all for your S30. The S30 contacts respond well to cleaning and overhaul, and last forever if you convert to Dave Irwin's Relay Kits!

It wasn't uncommon for early turbo L cars with the HKS Plenum to have standoff injection shooting into the carb bores... Or if the ITBs had single injectors, and the HP was sufficient, the same deal. Even when they used dual injector ITB's, there were injectors in the surge tank to shoot into the Center of the throat. Really, inside the plenum the air should be diffused and static flow with the inertia of the fuel will carry into the bores easily. During max flow, the airflow (if properly diffused into the plenum from the turbo pipe) will tend to draw fuel into the barrels. In a stock plenum with air from the front blowing across the first three cylinders, it will blow fuel towards the back of the plenum, but with Center, Dual, or Diffused Top or Bottom Entry into the plenum it should not be an issue with stand-off injectors in a turbo application. MSD once had screw-in injector bungs. Using a 1/8MNPT X 1/4FNPT brass pipe bushing reamed on the 1/4FNPT side to accept injectors worked well on several EFI from Carb conversion manifolds....

Atlas 6" Lathe and some brass / oilite stock...

Well, my post didn't post... See KTM's answer. It is not fair to blame a manual that is designed for a minimum level of competency for one's own incompetence. There is no "How to Keep your Datsun Alive, a Step-By-Step Guide for the Compleat Idiot" that includes the Z-Car. http://www.datsun510.com/manuals/How_to_Keep_Your_Datsun_L_Z_Series_Nissan_Alive_1968-1986.pdf There was a time up to the late 80's where it wasn't unfashionable to acknowledge we ourselves are indeed, idiots. After that it became fashionable to push the blame on others for our own lack of effort or preparation. Indeed, the FSM assumes a level of competence not had by all. But that is not to say it's useless...more aptly it's "youseless"--not he manual, YOU! I had a much better post before...it's a shame the Internet is so buggy right now. It was a nice bit including a bit about John Muir, a man who's writings were influential in shaping how I approached all things mechanical.

Only at time of importation, there is no real federal requirement they stay there. Feds are more interested in skylines and high-value cars my way. These are old enough for DOT exemption now so the point on that part is academic. You obviously have never encountered a "legally imported"! As I mentioned DYMO LABELMAKER VIN TAGS pass muster. And they fall off if you don't use the good stainless steel tags. Stick another one on there. You're not altering the VIN doing this, merely replacing a missing tag. It's nt NISSAN that supplies those tags on individual importation....it's the importer. Same for the GVWAR and importation date stickers, the tire pressure sticker in the glove box, the seat belt buzzer, rear marker lights, the 85mph speedometer, blah blah blah... Once the car is imported and cleared, you can do anything you want! People put KPH speedos in US cars, JDM Tailights, JDM non-compliant bumpers, shaving the rear marker lights... The same goes for individual imports. Once compliance is achieved and bond is released, it's like any other car, you can modify it to your heart's content. Federal importation on a now-DOT exempt vehicle. Pffft! The Feds don't care, they said so with the exemption from compliance! You're running by a play book written for cars over five model years old, up to 30 model years old. This car hasn't been required to meet that standard for at least three years! It's a non-issue. And believe me. On this, THAT phrase coming from ME in relation to a federal compliance issue is monumental. I was the naysayer on the R32 imports...the guy who "was being unreasonable" because "the Feds don't care, when was the last time you saw one impounded?" The car is a nice $800 parts find, or a driver... Legal importation ceased being an issue on that model years ago... Why did you reference the older post and not the latest?