Tony D

No.

Bo, the stock headlamps ARE weak! 40/50W as I recall. I had city lights in my H4 housings that were 30W on relys and they were as bright as stock Lo-Beam Koitos that came with the cars. Try to find an original wattage sealed-beam headlamp! Even now most "sealed beams" are housed halogen capsules of higher wattage...those stockers were WEAK WEAK WEAK!!! Universally people upgrade to today's standard 55/65W, which REALLY benefit from relays. And if you're like me running 55/100's or 80/120's on the 'night driver' relays become mandatory.

In spades, or any other suit you so choose. That smaller wheel is a KILLER!

I must not have been clear: Cease being a resident of the state. You do not need to be a resident to register or insure the car in CA. Likewise (and much to the chagrin of other states) CA also allows you to "garage" your vehicles elsewhere. Insurance is not contingent on location of use. It IS contingent f state f registration. I have had CA Plates on a car garaged in Michigan for going on 20 years now. Michigan doesn't particularly like it, but not much to say about it. Same as CA has nothing to say when I'm only in the state 24 days this year, and all my registrations were non-opped save one that I JUST did in CA, and ONLY because I used it in the state 13 days. Other than that time"it has not been moved or operated n public roadways to accrue fees" as they like to say. I'm not there, you're in freakin' Brasil! You hardly qualify as a resident. Declare your state f residence, get a driver's license insurance and plates there and garage it where you so choose! Wouldn't be the first time for me....no lying to anybody. But a sound "FU" to CADMV!

It is recommended the orifice be opened to allow more oiling on the top end for all High Performance L-Enines. Last guy who asked I directed to Frank Honsoweitz, and he posted the "definitive" answer from the guy whose name is on the book...

Steve "Stealth" Webb took a junkyard hydraulic cammed L28ET with 160,000+ miles on it, bolted his EMS/Turbo and ran the dyno to 460... It's the "Maximum Boost" mentality... You don't "need" to do anything other than fuelling and boost and you can make big HP. But JeffP made almost 40HP more with half the boost by changing to a ported cylinder head and cam. Why did Steve do it? Because his "built" engine blew during tuning and he wanted to drive the car to Albuquerque ZCON. Why did JeffP do it? Because his "built" engine blew a second time and he didn't feel like another $3,000 refresh just quite yet. See a common thread here?

And I'm still in effin' Brunei on straight time!

Wheels turning slowly and one hand not talking to the other. Go back, get your money refunded. You paid your fees, the money they collected was for fees that were waived! This is what I spoke some time ago about. CA DMV has the right to impound your GOOD CAR and sell it at auction to pay back fees on any of your other vehicles. If they sell the car fr mre than the fees owed, they are not required to tell you. They simply put your money in an escrow account, and if not claimed by you within a year, the money goes to the general fund! Incorporate an LLC in Reno, with a forwarding mail service (corporate suite) and cease being a California Citizen.

"The E31 head had the Highest compression ratio of the Z series heads, they came off the 70-71 z. " Uh, no. E31? Try E30, or O5L... Yep on the "smaller" valves, but again not the "smallest"!

Even stock the spray bar may not adequately lube lobes at idle, hot. It's kinda why they went to the drilled cams. But at speed, both systems keep things cool up top. Either one will lube the lobes, but that extra oil blowing over everything takes more heat out of the components, like the valve springs, and even the head. They both may not go to the lobes at hot idle...but the drilled lobes are sufficient for that. It's higher rpms where the spray bar starts being beneficial for the reasons mentioned. The decreased surface tension of synthetic oil should help wet upper end components better and also aid in heat removal. Heat kills springs!

PHH, that's a tasty find...thanks for posting! N switch is idiot switch...I don't use mine, either. I don't start in gear, nor do I put a load on the thrust bearings of the motor when dry (which is what you do when you crank the car with clutch depressed, wether in gear or in N!)

Whoodawhatdahuuuuuh?????? Great build. What BOV did you use on the Type2, that's a nice way to use a flanged adapter to geta variable position on the dump! "PSSSSSSSSSHHHCHCHCHCHCHCH! PSSSSSSSSSHHHCHCHCHCHCHCH! PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHHHCHCHCHCHCHCH!"

I've been there! I can't say how many times I've flown in to somewhere...opened up the local instruction manual, and started at Square 1... Customers don't want to see that. They want the Factory Guy to come in with a glamorous set of tools and diagnose some bizarre malady. The best was a vibration issue at a company in MO... I was there on the machine during overhaul...and now...three years later it was vibrating. Customer diagnosed it...I was there to reassemble. Long story short...they had sent the electric motor out for overhaul when it shorted phase-to-phase and after re installation their fears of compressor damage seemed justified in a high vibration trip that wouldn't go away. Puzzling to me was if I rotated the compressor by hand it was fine...then, sitting over the coupling pushing down on the 48" Pipe Wrench rotating it it came to me: normally I crawl onto the machine from the high speed side (opposite of what I was) and push down... I thought "I'm rotating this backwards!" I did my scroll check, then asked they get the manual, section 5, page 4 (standard standard, standard!) The motor company, despite marking everything for orientation, had reversed end bells of the motor. The customer did the rotation check, reversed leads, then had a vibration problem that just would NOT go away! They even said to me when I got there "it's strange, we an roll it in reverse and it's fine..." One basic check to the manual (which clearly said: "compressor rotation is clockwise viewed from drive end"!) and they would have never torn into a perfectly good machine. Nor had to pay for a field Balance! I flew across the country, assembled the machine, and in 45 minutes and one start diagnosed reversed end bells (improper rotation)... Later compressors had a big cast-in direction of rotation arrow...hmmmm wonder why? Most of the time it comes down to something very basic, but overlooked or dismissed. The head of maintenance sat there, looking at the book....and said "we probably did all this work for nothing then..." Yep! And balanced a field balanced rotor that made it imbalanced and needed another field balance to get it back where it was before you took it all apart! "D'OH!" Don't get discouraged, just step back...and then comeback with a fresh outlook and check it all again. You are right: a second set of eyes s invaluable when looking at this...it was JeffP and a case of Moosehead before he said "Man, your laptop's comm chip has some really funky signals coming out...let's try mine!" Badaboom! Fixed...for about 20 minutes and then my power circuit went DOA! Second box was fine and that box has been in there since!

Sump.

What was wrong with seat belts? "People didn't use them and died. Lets put air bags in..." But what if I'm smart enough to wear my seat belt every time? "Screw you, you'll get it, pay for it, and that's that." But seat belts gave ME the choice... Airbags don't. "You don't get a choice, we no best. Resistance is futile. You will be assimilated!"

. Forum Follies .

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"Since I now live in Washington and can only drive it about 7 months out of the year I'm modifying it a bit more extensively to increase my "fun factor" when I'm able to drive it." I envy guys with snow, where they get six months f the year where they don't have to worry about driving the car and can just work on it. Living in SoCal, every weekend its "sunny and mild" there's a drive, a car show, club board meeting, etc etc You're constantly driving the car, it's incessant... You almost have to get four cars just to put one down to get any decent time to work on it! Just drive, drive, drive, all the time. It's hell. Having 144" of snow and -40 for three months, and accumulation/receding around 0 for another three months....wow! How fortunate you guys are! It should give you time to think things through, as well! Plenty of time to think in a whiteout at -40!

That's part of the MWR Facilities provided by the profits gerpnerated by the on base post exchanges / commissary, etc. "Morale, Welfare, and Recreation" It's where I built my 73 while on Okinawa...at a little hole-in-the-wall Auto Hobby Shop that was adjacent to the Army Motor Pool at Torii Station. It wasn't the fanciest place, but it had everything I needed between there and the other hobby shop up the hill...where I found a beautiful South Bend Lathe...Just sitting there like new, put there in the 50's, I was the irst guy who had signed the tool set out since 'Nam (72!!!) Not your tax dollars at work, but redistribution of profits from a community back into it directly. As a Cold Warrior, the irony of fighting Communism while engaging in a Socialist-Collectivist Construct in the US Military caused no end of smirks at briefings... But I digress!

"Yes"

The myth that building a forged bottom end right out the gate will somehow make you immune to damage caused during tuning runs needs to be killed! All that will accomplish is costing you more money when it goes. And did I mention....that 489.9 HP.... It was made using a stock replacement Fel-Pro Head Gasket... The Internet paradigm machine is simply wrong. It's not a list of parts randomly selected to get to your goal. It's realistically assessing your goal and working backwards to see what gets you there in the most efficient manner and not following a list of parts from someone making their living selling those same parts. I swear, some guys are so insistent with what you "need" you would think they are getting a commission on parts sales referrals!

Shift Interlock for starting the car. An etching that warn me objects in the mirror are closer than they appear. Passive Restraints Excluding Trucks from a coordinated vehicle safety standard so they turn into Behemoth Battering Rams compared to daily fuel efficient mandated small cars. The inability to use Kei Cars... People are going to die in auto accidents. Rather than making safety cars where people can blithely blast along clueless about the surroundings, restrict the roadways to those who demonstrate proficiency at the driving task. Civil Libertarians may not like it, but that will save more lives than burdening everybody with more costs, heavier vehicles, with complexities that can not be serviced easily by the average guy. If you don't know how a car works, you really shouldn't be driving one. While advances in safety are fine...and I can see the same thing overseas.... But the nannystatism angle is onerous. Do people who aren't smart enough to know sitting too close to the airbag can result in your death and adjust their seat as instructed in the owner's manual someone we really want alive and procreating? Ralph Nader was wrong. We should not dumb down Automotive Driving. People SHOULD be responsible for READING and COMPREHENDING the OWNER'S MANUAL. We went down the 'save you from yourself path' with Nader and his contention that reading the manual was asking too much.

Ownership should not be restricted, access to the roadway should!

"Group Buy Forum" Currently the last post in the Manifold Buy outlines my tactics earlier today.