Tony D

2+2 with the back seat removed and extended seat runners is a very nice ride! I prefer the 2+2 because I can lay the seat back further than I can in a Coupe... Hell, you can probably BUY a 2+2 for as much as you're gonna pay for that hideous seat kil! I mean, a 2+2 is a 2+2... Nothing wrong with that. A Coupe is a Coupe damnit! I mean, you're talkin' dogs and cats sleeping together here now!

"Try keeping about 100 trees pruned - especially when they are 50-60' tall." Get a giraffe...

So, someone is "getting" it about an engine that flows well allowing only a "J-Pipe" to make big power with no intercooler... My nauseous repetition had an affect!

There is a feed port at the front of the block as well. Both need to be free and clear ... The middle one supplies the cam, the front is cam peripheral and chain. Direction of rotation is indicated by your plug wires "153624"...

Welcome to "Tony D's EMS Experience"! It's the same everywhere. Follow the recommended tuning steps scrupulously, by turning off enrichments, tuning the base curves, then adding trims one at a time. Biggest issue I see is guys going to a dyno with a 1/4 tank of fuel and tuning like crazy trying to chase a lean condition that goes away once they add a fresh five gallon can of petrol to the tank. For Christ's sake guys, you just spent $4,000 on an induction system, a full tank of gas is a drop in he bucket at this point! Fill the tank and keep it that way while tuning!

That is not an exact figure, I just remembered I got the F150, Supercharged 240, and 58 Datsun Coupe after she left....I think I picked up two 240Z's as well since...

I accumulated 32 cars with a wife. Now without one I got two motorcycles at a second house on another continent and while not a supermodel...close. Enough for me taking care of the bikes while I'm away!

Yeah, my last trip to BuHasa Fields it was 33 and dense fog at 06:00, and it felt so much cooler as the heat dissipated the humidity...you never thought 48 at lunch time could feel so cool! LOL

Get the FSM and a Multimeter before you post again. You will not diagnose transistor gating signals with a test lite. They are fine for a 62 VW with points, and interior lighting trouble. But on an 81? Sorry...you play you gotta pay. Sears or Harbor Freight DIGITAL multimeter with at least a 5, 12, or 20VDC selectable low range...

That is incorrect, the E30 is at LEAST as common as the E31, being in all ports of cars while the E31 was a short-time Z Offering. And it was a Z-Head as well. The L20ET was also offered in the S130. It is a Z-Car Head as the article states. This is an international forum, and if you are making absolute statements...be prepared for the possibility someone will call you on bad information when you put it out there...

There is a basic test involving pulling the spark lead, but I'm not inclined to argue about it.

You guys realize drill motor speed of 3800 equates to 7,600 rpms engine speed...right? I don't know about this...two cams IMMEDIATELY? Pull the damn head and check the passageway. And the cam towers. Something is wrong in this engine. Madcaw, I posted in the other thread, your oil pressure IS NOT "excessive" -- it's almost textbook perfect, in fact.

Your oil pressure is normal, it is NOT excessive.

The Most Excellent Excuse to do it if here are females restricting cashflow!

There is that push-button ignition kit Dave Irwin's came up with that uses the new Nissan button and radio fob... That would solve it!

Caster adjustment in the name of low speed steering becomes an insurance claim at speed...

Define "excessive pressure"

In fact, when I got my speeding ticket in Michigan earlier in December in the F150. The MSP Trooper at he Ogemaw County Line also checked the VIN...probably for the CIC search as a temp tag is useless for that.

Happened in my 1973 240Z not five hundred feet from my house on the way to work one morning. "My car was smoking" was the reason for the stop. Riverside, on Magnolia Avenue/6th St 1992 Current Plates & Registration Happened in my Company (unsigned or logoed) G30 van -- big white van, asked for me to move my clipboard to read he VIN on the dash. Thousand Oaks on 101. 1998 Current Plates & Registration Happened in a car I was transporting from the Port Warehouser off Wilmington in Compton. This car had no plates (Prototype Chrysler Vehicle Reimported to the USA) and was the only one I really thought they SHOULD check the VIN. 2006 Shipping Documents & KY Temp Tag on the front seat. Happened in DECEMBER in my 2002 F150 with Ohio Transport Tags. As for whatever semantics you want to argue, it's your car... Do what you want. Just because you don't get caught doesn't mean it's legal. I know what the regs are, and I know what the situation in CA is regarding revenue... Maybe you're one of those guys that gets lucky with this kind of crap and nobody checks you... Rest assured, an L28 in a 240Z is an illegal engine swap if the Engine Number was not reported to the DMV according to the letter of the law and CVC. A smog check does not check for CVC compliance, only SMOG Compliance. I, personally don't want to be the guy having to hire a lawyer to argue "everybody else did it for years"... I have taken the proper steps to exempt my engine swaps from reporting guidelines, simply because of my seemingly random VIN Checking by the CHP. It's all in the CVC. You don't. Necessarily get a ten day STAR Compliance Check...that's a SMOG requirement again. Having worked task force where cars are impounded daily....it doesn't take a lot for a working, law abiding citizen to get his ride impounded over VIN Matters. Get he car classified as a 462...kiss your hard work goodbye! One Detective and a bad day can make or a very bad day from what I've seen....especially when here is a VIN conflict. Have the CHP Assign one...I wouldn't use either of the donor vehicle VIN's... Doing so without the other parts reported, and the presence of a conflicting VIN...recipe for a very bad day!

That would pulsate like hell. This set isn't pulsating... A 0.001" change in rotor thickness will shake your fillings out at speed when the brakes are applied!

Yep, like a 5mm I.D. Copper Crush Ring

Gotta be noticeable, the standard quantification would be shown using another Kaleco product, the Butt-Dyno!!! I'm just glad they started to get Datsun-Specific Items at Kaleco, long overdue! Rare Datsun 710 Caps

Nice... The price seems good for a Containerised Shipment, better than open RoRo this time of year! "No deck cargo" during typhoon season! Black "shows all flaws" as well, so should be straight if nothing else!

What was the damage (¥¥¥) before shipping, if you don't mind answering? Nice aftermarket AC, had one like that and it was cooooold!!! Nice period correct Hayashi Rims as well!

Ditto that, something is letting your pads flutter. People think rotor thickness or "warpage" causes pulsation, when that is rarely the case. Brakes stop the car by embedding braking material into the face of the rotor, initially. If this deposition is uneven, then as the pads slide over areas with and without deposited pad material, it causes that "pulsation" .... The easiest method in the past was to turn the rotors to get a fresh surface and try re-bedding the brakes. Now there are tools that use small 3m grinding or sanding discs that clean off the existing pad material with minimum rotor metal removal, and you rebel on that. Only in the most extreme cases (grooving, scoring, actual warpage) will big brake lathes some into play. What I see is brake material deposited and building up unevenly. Brake pins, springs, etc is where I would look. Even the seals on the pistons not causing that minimal retraction can cause them to flutter. Block sand and re-bed the pads...but really, if you aren't feeling pulsation the cosmetics really don't mean much!