Swervey McZCar

I use a tiny flat head screwdriver to release the pins. There are small holes next to each pin to stick it into. A needle, pin or tiny paperclip will work also. If the wiggle while driving test doesnt change anything, this is not likely the culprit.

how did you replace the TPS without a multimeter? you should check it's adjustment. Also recheck the connectors at the ECU. They are problematic and cause weird behavior. Try wiggling them as you drive. I replaced mine with the plugs from a z31. I removed each pin and relocated it to a bare z31 connector. Not too much trouble. Where's the timing set with the engine at operating temp?

Got my first one ;P

Hey Yasin, A decent gun is only twice as much if you get lucky. I found a nice Craftsman HVLP on sale for $100 a few years back. If you keep your eyes open you'll find something worth your while. I'm sure these would be fine for a bumper but who know when you might want to paint an entire car... It's nice to trust your stuff. -Stan

Hello, How long did the car sit before you bought it?

You also need the distributor drive shaft from the turbo car me thinks. Search the site for the S30 turbo swap and you shall find.

Sounds great. I see now the MSII Extra has support for direct control of COP and Wasted Spark. B&G didn't mention either in the standard MSII documentation, but talked about a triggering a single coil or using EDIS for WS. This changes everything. Now I have to research this implementation since my PCB was built targeting EDIS.

I was planning on MS-II (v3.oPCB) sending the advance only to the EDIS module. So I still need the EDIS 36-1 Trigger wheel? I guess I thought this wheel would create the same waveform. The stock Ignition system doesn't have a limp mode so that wouldn't really be an issue. I'm willing to let MS control the coilpack directly if it will work with my MSII Unit. If not, I wonder if I could write some code to output a modified waveform to the EDIS via some unused wire in MS. If that were doable somebody would have done that with the stock distributor by now, right?

I'm in for sure. L28ET Running MS-II with EDIS is the goal. I'm tired of reading about trigger wheels, damper failure and $400 solutions.

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you some resources. The Pinout should be the same as the turbo, BUT I think the wires to the knock sensor won't be used. No real harm in keeping them in the harness, but I don't think the 87 NA will do anything with the knock signal. The NA and the turbo used two different O2 sensors (Turbo = titania / smaller O2 sensor). I don't think it'd make much difference for your 2500 problem. Mine studdered like this at a particular RPM. The ECU was switching from sequential to batch/bank injection. I follow the diagnosis in the FSM (I'll send) and determined it was the ECU. A new ECU and I was good to go. Later, -Stan

Make sure the distributor is bolted down well. Timing could have moved. If you can grab it, twist and the dizzy base won't budge, check the compression. Don't mess with the carbs without checking EZ stuff.

If you pulled the plug wires off, check the position. Remember firing order looking at the distributor is counter clockwise.

If you are using the T5, check out my images for modifying the trans crossmember. Pretty straighforward, just need to offset it by a couple of inches. My 79zx turbo/T5/LSD has worked great. I changed the front crossmember and used a 83 rack for steering FWIW.

Nistune is cool. That was the whole reason for me to perform this swap. Don't use a "Parts Store MAF on this swap BTW. It does fine at stock levels of boost but runs out of capacity at 10psi or so. I finally found a good working MAF in the yard (first 2 were DOA) and I'm having fun with Nistune. Talk to Andy at Autovaughn performance.

Would you trade the Intercooler and BOV for the Tranny and Driveshaft? You pay shipping.?. Looking for stock sway bars or "performance" ?

Did you find these parts? I have the pad. I will send for $20 Plus shipping (this might get pricey as the foam is rather large). I really do not have a use for the stuff as my foam is good...

I know there are other more experienced guys here but maybe I can help. Did you use a wedge of wood, screwdriver handle or other to hold the chain and tensioner tight in place while you pulled the head? If not, yes you probably lost some length to the tensioner and it will be difficult to get the cam gear back on. If you are pretty sure that the chain has not moved on the crank gear, you can have a friend hold the chain tight while you position the wedge. Perhaps you can regain enough chain to get your cam gear on. If the timing cover is off, don't worry about it, just line uf the marks on the cam gear with the factory dot on the chain and do the same for the crank gear. I'll post a pic in my album. -Stan

I ended up buying Nistune from Andy. I shipped him my 84 ECU last Monday and got it back today. The type 1 boards now get returned to you with the ECUs factory tune, so all I had to do was crank the car and push an 84 Turbo tune to it. Man that is easy. I look forward to experimenting with some more aggressive timing at low revs. I am at a little disadvantage because the ECU does not have knock detection, but that function does not work under boost anyway. I just have to be careful. The car (79 w/L28ET) is running great! When this car gets an intercooler and I turn up the boost, stand-alone knock detection and/or methanol injection will probably fit in the mix or I might move this board to a 88-89 ECU. Thanks Andy!

I did the 82-83 280zx rear disc swap last Summer on 2 S30s and now I am looking for some proper brake hoses to replace the bound rubber ones. Has anyone tried these? If so can you tell me how well they work and if relocating the hard line is necessary? Are there any that are the silver bullet for this job? I am looking for ease of installation with minimal line bending. Also, I remember hearing part numer for a Bendix rubber hoses that worked well but cannot seem to locate it at the moment. I did search the "Brake Options" sticky BTW. I knew it by heart 9 months ago. I just can't seem to find what I am searching for. Thanks, -Stan

Still a spark problem right? Is the bracket that the Coil Trigger/power transistor (next to your coil) is mounted to well grounded? Crank Angle Sensor, Round Plug connected at the spot about 6 inches downstream from the distributor? Also I'd reconnect the stock coil just to eliminate variables.

This thread is a little old, but in case you are talking about CAM Timing...