bramagedained

FWIW, under it's own weight and with the mustache bar from Wfritts kit, my 8.8 really doesn't move just supported by the two rear bolts. I don't think it would be a big deal if you had the above linked setup and dropped it to remove the control arms. You could always just quick re-install it after dropping them.

Their website is down so I cannot find the specific part number. But, the "Hardened Hub" disks look like this, each friction has it's own splined hub: The "Gear Drive" disks look like this, where there is one larger hub and the 2nd friction rides on that: I had the 6 leg 7.25" V-Drive clutch in the Evo I had for ~40k miles. I went through a set of hardened hub discs every 8-10k or so, while the gear drive lasted a bit longer. That car made 897hp/715tq to the tires and the clutch held fine. There is certainly a learning curve to that clutch and the hydraulic TOB, especially with the race compound friction discs.

FWIW, the "Gear Drive" disks for the QM clutches are definitely worth the extra cost over the hardened hub version if they exist for that application. Quieter, longer life, and less input shaft wear.

I also have a pair of the 7" VisionX lights. I already like them, and I know a lot of people that with their offroad lights that get beat pretty hard and they hold up. They fit just like the sealed beams did without modifying anything. The High beam pattern is like an offroad spot light, while the Low is like a good HID with a sharp cutoff. This means they can be adjusted properly without blinding oncoming traffic.

This one? S30 8.8 Swap Parts List(1).pdf

Someone caught video as you were leaving that was posted in the C&C facebook group, too.

It's going to end up with how much HP are you willing to trade off for being quiet. When I decided on the layout for my car, after digging it seemed that glass-pack type mufflers were the best balance of performance vs sound reduction. I read through a bunch of Vizard and other's stuff. Actual testing across manufacturers on the same setup is shockingly difficult to find. Half the articles about mufflers cite professionals from one company or another who always insist their own design is best. I did find this post when I was looking: http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/tech-section/3202-some-muffler-test-info I ended up with a pair of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-633222 tucked up next to each other where the stock muffler should be. I don't think what I did will fit with the stock bumper shocks. I have this video, but, I have no idea how much normalization my phone does by default for sound being recorded. It is noticeably quieter when the car is actually on the ground. And probably because you're then much higher than the exhaust compared to where my phone recorded this from. https://youtu.be/5B2p1C9UAK4

The issue is that as a whole, 3rd party ads have proven to be untrustworthy, serve malware, hijack links, etc. So the safe option is to block everything, everywhere. This issue is just another example.

Oh, I'm stealing that idea of welding the rods to the pins in the pistons and using them to support the glass like that. I think I have an Evo trans input and output shaft, some gears, a clutch/flywheel, SBC camshaft, 4G63 crank/rods/pistons, bent stock Evo aluminum wheel. Probably a SBC timing set, too. After this winter I'll probably have the ring/pinion out of the 8.8 and the stock traclok as junk parts, too.

I wish I could find a shortblock for that around here. Since I'm going to end up doing it in stages I'd like to find a LQ9 shortblock so I can throw some L92 heads on it for the higher comp(vs a LQ4) for the year or so I'll have to drive it around N/A. The L92 heads just seem to be so much better than the cathedral ports that come on the LQ4/9. Then either throw just a little boost at the higher compression LQ9 short block, or, first make it a 408 then throw boost at it later.

I dunno how it's hard to believe, there's thousands of threads across basically every possible chassis platform of it. LS1tech has everything you would need to know.

Looks like that fits good, how tall is the cowl? How much does it weight vs the stock steel one? The last C&C for the year is this Saturday, the 8th.

Do you think the header just cooked it? I can't remember what your headers looked like near the starter. I kind of want a cowl hood as well, but, have the same fears as you for buying a used one.

A supercharger is definitely more linear than a turbo. Too bad you didn't make it to that hillclimb, it was good fun. There was a guy there with an orange 5.3 swapped car that I don't know-who did better than I did. I'm still waiting for the e-mail with everyone's results. I think I made top 10, beating one of the pro-touring built cars. My fastest time of the day included a 2 second penalty, too.

FWIW, Will's kit has gone in 240/260/280s so they must all be very close, at least between the mustache bar mounts and the welded nuts for the front mount.