bradyzq

A little devil's advocate here: The diff ratio is a torque multiplier. And driveshaft speed divider. Period. If you're spinning through first and second no matter what the diff ratio, does it really matter how much boost you're making? And might it not be nice to have extra torque in the gears you have some semblance of traction in? And the "ideal" (is that the same as "best"?) ratio will also vary based on the turbo's boost threshold. For example, if you have a huge turbo that normally spools around 5000RPM, wouldn't you rather have more effectively normally aspirated acceleration in the lower gears, as opposed to having a ridiculously long (and slow until boost hits) first gear? EDIT: And don't forget about the transmission ratios. They can change the outcome of the ballgame too. So, think in terms of overall ratios, not just diff ratios.

Technically, it's "Nee!" Unless perhaps you were writing in German.

An L series engine with Webers is much nicer looking than a SBC, or most other options.

This thread is getting a bit noisy, so I'll refer back to the OP. What are trying to compare to? A stock 75-76 280Z motor with EFI (170HP SAE gross)? Or a stock 260Z motor with flat top carbs (139HP SAE gross)? I ask this because your starting point didn't exist from the factory. I don't see how a well-tuned Holley 390 could perform better than a stock EFI setup that is running correctly. So, assuming all is set up correctly, I will guess that your engine is producing pretty much stock 280Z power, approximately 170HP SAE gross. Which would be more or less equivalent to 130ish HP SAE net. Which should be somewhere around just over 100HP at the wheels, give or take a few ponies. So, to answer your question, your guess of 120 HP is probably not far off, if you're talking about SAE net HP. And, you should have about the same power as a stock N42-engined 280Z.

Since this is a sticky, I assume it's ok to add to it years later, so here goes: I agree X4 with the above. To put a slightly different slant on it, whether you have a faster car in a straight line or not, that car behind you that you can't lose is faster around the whole track. So when you give the point by, remember to lift off enough so that he can safely get by in the designated passing zone. If he's in a slower straight line car and you don't lift enough, you end up with a drag race through the passing zone and an unsafe late pass. You can and will get black-flagged for this. Also remember to BLINK! Johnc mentioned breathing, but if it's your first time out on the track, you can honestly forget to blink. Up to a point. And when your brain says "OK, this is enough I have to blink," it may take a few blinks to clear up your eyes. This is where you're kind of driving with reduced vision, which is never a good thing. Empty (and I mean empty) your car before you get to the track. Look under the seats too. You don't want a water bottle rolling from under the seat and later fouling the pedals. Don't forget the sun visors. Make sure they don't contain your CD collection. I would even empty the glove box and trunk. Glove box doors have been known to open. The trunk contents mainly add weight, but can also make noises as they bounce around. So, if you hear a noise coming from the rear of the car, you don't want to be guessing whether it's your golf clubs or a mechanical/body issue. Also remove the floor mats, since they can also move and get in the way. Of course you need to bring a few things to the track, so it's a very good idea to bring a big plastic bin and/or a tarp to keep them in/protect them from weather when you're on track.

So, is your uncle trying to dismount from the horse, pleasure it, or kill it? The most common example is the panda example. Eats shoots and leaves. or Eats, shoots, and leaves.

Just saw this for the first time. Wow!

I have been told that good machine shops can also true the top surface of the head by shaving it a touch. This would impact your overall height measurements. You would end up with the right thickness of cam tower shims but might be off on the combustion chamber side. I don't know if this is ever actually done, but it warrants consideration.....

Hmm, that's a bit rude. If you sell the car in 2 years, or even one, any random (and that's pretty much what they are) numbers we throw at you now will be even more useless than they are now, as values will have changed. Really, what did you expect? Even a professional appraiser who knows Zs like the back of his hand would not be able to give you an accurate number based on the little info you've provided. Take a look at the classifieds here. There are 5 or 6 L28ET swapped S30s in there in the last 12 months. That may give you an idea, though those are asking prices. Cars did not necessarily actually sell for those prices...

A few more thoughts on GPS speedo accuracy relative to conventional speedos' accuracy. Yes, I suppose the GPS speedo will calculate speed as change in position over a unit of time. But what is the unit of time? If it is recalculating as slowly as say 5 times per second, it will effectively be smooth and quite accurate. Conventional speedos also have their weaknesses which GPS units don't. Wheelspin will no longer cause inaccurate readings. Neither will locked up wheels. Odo readings will continue to increase in reverse. All in all, they seem to be good tradeoffs, and come out in the GPS speedo's favour. My $0.02.

In general, ECU controlled water/meth can work, but in this case, NOOOOOOO! I don't know what happened with this situation over the last few months, but adding water/meth to the mix when cam timing, base ignition timing, and basic boost control aren't taken care of, to say nothing about actual tuning, is adding fuel to the fire.

Do you use an O2 sensor in closed loop? In other words, can an intermittent bad over-rich signal from the O2 sensor cause your ECU to want to lean out to the point of stalling the engine? If the O2 signal is different for the ECU and your gauge, something may be up there. The reason I'm focusing on the O2 sensor is that it's something that is ignored for the first few seconds or minute of running, depending how you've got it set in your ECU. You haven't mentioned anything about logging the ECU yet. Please try it. That's why it's there!

I would strongly suggest logging with your ECU, or maybe you've already done this. If so, what does the log say when the car dies? Or does the ECU shut off too?

My point was that Allen has more machine shops in his backyard than any of us. So shipping costs should be zero. Asking around locally will point him to a good shop. If not, then just look for a name on that list (from machineshopweb.com, BTW) that has an automotive slant. I saw Carolinas. It's been there for a million years. Maybe they're a good place to try.

Pick up a stone and throw it. You'll probably hit a machine shop in Charlotte! They are definitely not in short supply in your town. Charlotte (Top) Aart Machine Company 710 State St Charlotte NC (704) 392-3955 Al Davis Machining, Inc. 10632 John Price Road Charlotte NC (704) 588-1919 Allied Metal Finishing, Inc. 2525 Lucena Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 347-1477 Allied Zinc Finishing, Inc. 2121 Thrift Road Charlotte NC (704) 358-3333 Amplate 7820 Tyner Drive Charlotte NC (704) 597-0688 Atlas Die, Inc. 9301 Forsyth Park Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-1931 Automated Technology, Inc. 223 E Cama Street Charlotte NC (704) 523-2252 B W Machining, Inc. 3110 Cullman Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 334-6111 Blue Chip Machine Company 4017 Hargrove Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 399-5683 Boston Gear 3900 Westinghouse Boulevard Charlotte NC 704 588-5610 Campbell & Sons Machining, Inc. 2822 Hart Road Charlotte NC (704) 394-0291 Carolina Alignment Professionals 4600 Park Road # 300 Charlotte NC (704) 523-5550 Carolina Tractors/Hydraulics 9000 Statesville Road Charlotte NC (704) 596-8880 Carolinas Auto Machine, Inc. 2549 Lucena Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 377-4933 Charles R Bass Machine Shop 2200 N Brevard Street Charlotte NC (704) 333-8104 Charlotte Machine Company 1618 Camden Road Charlotte NC (704) 334-0841 Charlotte Plating, Inc. 417 Hebron Street Charlotte NC (704) 552-2100 Comer, Inc. 9333 Forsyth Park Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-8400 Custom Chrome Shop 2808 Rosemont Street Charlotte NC (704) 392-3013 Custom Machine & Tool 3701 S Interstate 85 Svc Road Charlotte NC (704) 391-9325 D & L Machine & Grinding 10900 S Commerce Boulevard # C Charlotte NC (704) 588-2008 D W Enterprises 3238 Robinson Cir Charlotte NC (704) 372-0318 Delta Mold, Inc. 9415 Stockport Place Charlotte NC (704) 588-6600 Derita Precision Machine Company 605 Toddville Road Charlotte NC (704) 392-7285 Diamond Precision Tool 6900 Nations Ford Road Charlotte NC (704) 523-5141 Dma, Inc. 3123 May Street Charlotte NC (704) 527-0992 Fab Pattern Shop, Inc. 113 W Kingston Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 334-1920 Freeman Machine & Fabrication 4804 Riverdale Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-0598 Ge Company 12037 Goodrich Drive Charlotte NC (704) 587-1300 General Projects, Inc. 9521 Dixie River Road Charlotte NC (704) 394-7031 Grinding & Metals, Inc. 1200 Westinghouse Boulevard # O Charlotte NC (704) 588-5999 Grob Corp. 1301 Westinghouse Boulevard # I Charlotte NC (704) 588-4310 H & H Machine Shop 307 W Tremont Avenue # Z Charlotte NC (704) 376-8016 H & H Polishing 7632 Frosch Road Charlotte NC (704) 393-8728 Hardcoatings, Inc. 2601 Lucena Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 377-2996 Harper Corp. Of America 11625 Steele Creek Road Charlotte NC (704) 588-3371 Holder Machine & Manufacturing, Inc. 439 Lawton Road Charlotte NC (704) 399-4934 Ideal Tool & Die Company 3021 Bank Street Charlotte NC (704) 527-3651 Industrial & Compressor, Inc. 3101 S Tryon Street Charlotte NC (704) 523-3182 International Piping Service Company 3708 Performance Road Charlotte NC (704) 398-0655 M & M Machine Company 5701 Orr Road Charlotte NC (704) 596-2321 MBI Coatings 301 Crompton Street Charlotte NC (704) 588-9290 Martex Machinery, Inc. 3230 Piper Lane Charlotte NC (704) 357-8861 Mercer Machine & Tool Company 540 W 32nd Street Charlotte NC (704) 333-1923 Metal Coating Process Corp. 6101 Idlewild Road # 134 Charlotte NC (704) 568-8383 Metro Metal & Design, Inc. 2313 S Tryon Street Charlotte NC (704) 334-9871 Micron Precision 9200 Stockport Place Charlotte NC (704) 583-0486 Mirror Image Plating, Inc. 518 Atando Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 370-6566 Modern Mold & Tool Company 2101 N Davidson Street Charlotte NC (704) 377-2300 National Plating Company 3004 Bank Street Charlotte NC (704) 523-0433 Newton Machine Company 1120 N Hoskins Road Charlotte NC (704) 392-6183 Nissei Corp. Of America 8227 Arrowridge Boulevard Charlotte NC (704) 527-9876 Operating & Maintenance Specs 130 Southside Drive Charlotte NC (704) 523-4031 Pearson Manufacturing Company 2701 Doctor Carver Road Charlotte NC (704) 332-5829 Piedmont Machine & Manufacturing, Inc. 3731 Philemon Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 376-7911 Precision Dynamics, Inc. 1033 Carter Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 338-5887 Precision Tech Machine Company 4114 Sudbury Road Charlotte NC (704) 567-5055 Precision Welding & Mach Company 4701 Beam Road Charlotte NC (704) 357-1288 Production Tool & Die Company 537 Scholtz Road Charlotte NC (704) 525-0498 Quality Machining & Repair 700 Herrin Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 375-3251 Quality Products & Machine Company 444 Wolfberry Street Charlotte NC (704) 375-3797 R & H Machine & Fabrication Company 3009 Griffith Street Charlotte NC (704) 527-4348 Roll Services 1537 E Sugar Creek Road # A Charlotte NC (704) 333-6216 Southeastern Enterprises 3208 Benard Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 373-1750 Southern Aluminum Finishing Company 2322 Dunavant Street Charlotte NC (704) 376-8663 Specialty Machine Works 3213 N Davidson Street Charlotte NC (704) 376-7057 Stamp Source 2001 N Davidson Street Charlotte NC (704) 372-5291 Stone Heavy Duty 3740 N Interstate 85 Svc Road Charlotte NC (704) 596-6967 Titan Converting Equipment 9800 Southern Pines Boulevard Charlotte NC (704) 561-7320 Union Special Corp. 1500 Continental Boulevard # Z Charlotte NC (704) 588-7193 Upchurch Machine Company 11633 Fruehauf Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-2895 WLW Machine Company 511 W Summit Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 375-7722

I love good spoon! What are you looking for? Quick spooling that will die off a little early, or something that spools a bit later but that can effieciently pound out the lbs/hr at high revs? What redline RPM are you planning?

I guess it would have helped if I'd read Part 2 of the article. I am still suspicious though, because they seem only to have thrown a cam on a balancing machine and found it to be out of balance, and the rest is just theory. There are a lot of "may cause valve float," or "may cause excitation", "May do X" comments with no data to back it up.

I hate to be a curmudgeon, but to me, that article contained a whole lot of not much, and my BS meter was beginning to move off its peg.

Hi All, X-posted from Z33 forum, which seems quite quiet... I'm looking for some injectors for a friend with a supercharged 350Z. I've found options at injected performance and injector dynamics, but they're a bit spendy. They look like typical EV14-style injectors with the Denso connector, but there are different lengths of injector, and I haven't found anything other than the above that says for sure it's a drop-in. Does anyone know of any other sources? Thanks!

Hi All, I'm looking for some injectors for a friend with a supercharged 350Z. I've found options at injected performance and injector dynamics, but they're a bit spendy. They look like typical EV14-style injectors with the Denso connector, but there are different lengths of injector, and I haven't found anything other than the above that says for sure it's a drop-in. Does anyone know of any other sources? Thanks!

Thank you Tony! That's really good to know, and is an "outside the box" type of solution, which of course makes it very cool.

Fished in!

Looking at the 2 dyno graphs, they're VERY different. On the 435whp run, you're making about 275 at 5252RPM. On the 509whp run, you make only 180ish at the same RPM. Why would that be lower on a higher boost run? On the 435whp run, you reach 400wtq at 5500RPM, whereas on the 509whp run, you're only at about 230wtq. Either you pulled massive amounts of timing after the 435whp run, and the tune took a step backwards, or something was already broken or leaking boost by the time you ran the 509whp run. Because, worst case, those two RPM points where I compared torque outputs should be the same on both runs. Do you know what caused the bumpiness at 6oooRPM and up? Was the boost controller oscillating a bit?

Since I haven't actually looked closely at my Z's crank pulley lately, I'll cover my a** by saying this should apply to any old car and is general in nature.... Coupla things: Sourcing ANY crank pulley from a scrapyard or donor engine means you're buying 40 year old rubber dampers. Sooner or later this will start to be a problem for all Z owners, regardless of the RPMs they're spinning at. So,IMO, a new damper/pulley is relatively cheap insurance. The original ones certainly don't owe us any more service at almost 40 years worth! Same goes for the crank pulley bolt. I wouldn't buy a used one if I broke the original. I would spring for a new one.

Could be, but I still think something's up with the dyno graph. The AFR does the same thing between 3000-3500RPM between the same 2 AFRs on the blue run with no corresponding change in torque. None at all, at least from I can see from the sheet. I've never seen that flat a torque curve, even on a brand new, drive-by-wire, torque-controlled car. My overall message remains that I think madkaw (Steve) should not rely on that dyno sheet nor consider making changes due to it. Everything about it seems odd, and a second set of pulls is cheap insurance compared to having to do and undo changes found to be unnecessary!