majik16106

Has this happened to anyone else using big 17's and coil overs? This is kind of freaking me out a little because mike is running the same thing i was planning on running, or pretty close anyway. Keep us updated man, im sure alot of people would like to know what happened...

the point of the movie should be like the comics or games. The two are fighting and causing a lot of trouble with humans. Humans are the good guys. Really in the series, its more like "Humans Vs. Aliens and Predators while aliens and predators fight each other a little which is getting a lot of humans killed". In the series the war between alien and predator was leading to a lot of chaos and destruction which was spanning the galaxy as they chased each other. So humans (the marines) go in to stop the war by "hopefully" killing both species pretty much completely off. BAsically this movie = gratuitous violence and cool action scenes.

Ok guys, here is the plan, or was... I was going to switch to 5 lug and run these custom 17's wheels from boyd coddington. so i bought.. 240sx and 4runner calipers Rear rotors -can easily swap out though... front rotors- can also be swapped out... So that leaves me to buy the wheels and 5 lug conversion and brake stuff to make all those things work. The 5 lug costs me about 750 bucks to do now since i dont need the stuff above and the wheels come to right at 1400. for a grand total of 2,150 dollars. We have had a little mishap with my daily driver and through some wierd events I started to rethink what i was planning to do. Im not sure the style im going for will really be had with this set up. Now the set of CCW wheel, which we all know and love I can get in 17s or 18's for right around 1850. Now my question is, with the stuff I have what else do i need to convert to rear disc and make the 4runner calipers work on the front? The only way I know of is to spend 3-400 dollars at modern-motorsport to buy brackets and stuff like that which makes the price about equal, but I could have sworn it can be done cheaper. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

well i think you guys are touching on what will make it cool, obviously one on one the predator would destroy and alien, shit if ripley can do it why not the predator? But the fact is you'd have a hive, which means like 20 aliens to every 1 predator. I wonder if the marines will be in this movie? All i can say is, im willing to bet a marine is the main character,and whoever plays that marine, is about to flush thier career down the drain.

Hey its cool, for my last anniversary, I fabricated a special sword from a video game that my gf and I like to play. Everyone thought I was crazy, but after i made it, they all wanted one. She loved it and thats all that counts, just stay creative you wouldnt believe what you can come up with, i made a ct26 turbo inlet housing into a candle holder once...

awesome, yah like i said, its only in there for a second. I may e-mail you in a few days, if Ben actually built the car, id love to pick his brain about it since im going to be dropping a pretty sick 1jz in mine, although im sure that wont be till a year or so from now, i need to get the rest of the car straight. but it would be nice to get some info. Im sure it did fly by most everything, i dont see why it wouldnt, light car with good suspension geometries and a power band thats lightning quick and smooth plus make really nice power... I dont even really have to sell it, im doing it.

Hey all, well im putting together the motor that will eventually go into my z, im using a 1jz from a 1990 supra, and instead of putting the r154 5 speed behind it, im about 95% sure im gonna be putting the 93+ supra 6 speed behind it. I read on this forum once that it couldnt really be done because the v160 is so long, but ive seen it done like twice, some yellow car off of ebay and one other in japan. So i was wondering if anyone has pics or knows the guy who had the one here or something so i can find out if it does actually fit with a lot of pounding, or if ill be needing to tear the car apart and build a new floor pan and tunnel and all to make it work or whatever they did to make it work. The only problem I can really see from it is the shifter, since the 6 speeds have that wierd linkage it looks like the shifter would be almost right beside me in the car.

Hey all, I am going to run a 17x11 rear wheel, 4 inches of backspacing. I was thinking I could could buy some Zg flares, and have them extended, but i was told it might not work too well because of the angle Zg flares are made at, and that to really make that work, i would have to basically build the flare from scratch, and that a better idea would be to use the IMSA flares and modify those because they stick straight out anyway. So, i began to wonder if I should just use the yz rear flares from reactionresearch? Although i know my wheels will fit, i think it would look silly, usually anything less than 18s on the yz looks kind of silly, i think because the yz blisters the entire fender and makes the whole back end look Much bigger. I want to able to lower the car a good bit, and I was hoping maybe some thoughts could be bounced around, plus it might help others in the future. Darius' car runs 17s that look alot like mine and his car looks alright with the flares, although in the picture its slammed. I just hate to spend 650 on those yz's, i like the IMSA style flares and they are considerably cheaper...

Looks like i might be trying out the yoko es100's...

power windows, im gonna put those on mine when i have a chance, but right nwo ive just got too much to do before spring time

I didnt like hearing the mx's broke up though, i was looking at those as well, i run a 3.54 rear end, so i figure that should help quite a bit..

See, i was going to get a competition tire ( the v700, bf ta-kd drags, 555r's etc) but that seems to happen to all of them who drive on the road a lot, I was thinking since im running such a wide tire, i could probably get away with a good high performance summer type tire, a la the toyo t1s, the yoko avs, or es100, maybe the sumitomo htr, eagle f1, dunlop sport 8000, etc... but id like to hear more combos and what people like and dont like. remember, this is for street driven cars..

Jarco inc (http://www.jarcoinc.com) I have been friends with them for a long time, i bought a few 20v motors for some 86's way back before the whole "drifting nightmare" (as i like to call it) kicked in. I got it from them for 2500, which i think was pretty much 10% over the entire cost.

Just wondering what everyone is using at 300 +rwhp, if its cool, just post your power, estimated or dyno, whatever, and tire size and make or whatever, i was looking at the kumho ecsta mx's, but the sumitomo htzr dont look too bad either. This is a car thats street driven, and pretty often, i want something sticky, but i dont expect to hook at 4500 rpm launches on the street, but i dont want to be kicking the back end out at a 35mph roll in. ill be making 375ish rear wheel, so think "keep her straight while she flies down the on ramp."

ive said it before, if you only want raw power, go for a big v8, its cheaper, easier, and faster. but the toyota swaps are a lot of fun, think of it has a turbo 3.1 that these guys are building, except easier. No bottom end work required, buy a 1200 donor car, put a hg in it, and throw on a t04 , a little extra fuel and you get 400+rwhp.

THATS IT !! buy it now, your car is in it, only for a few seconds but its there.

me, not a lot of money, but im a supra guy, for a long time that was pretty much all i worked on, i was one of those local guys who supra owners brought thier cars to to be worked on in my driveway, did a TON of work on third gens, a few 1jz swaps.. etc.. so i had a TON of stuff just laying around not doing either that i had acquired as payment or trade or stuff people didnt want to use anymore. I mean really, i spent about 500 on the car. Then i sent off a few ct-26s to be rebuilt for friends, and they paid enough that mine was pretty much free. I probably built this car in raw parts for less than 1600 bucks. NOrmally i would think it would cost about 4000 in parts, maybe a little less. It was me and one friend who did the work, the same guy i work on the supras with.

Definatly Aussie, its a purple box, its called Serious Performance 5 then it says australias best selling hi tech fast car video. pictures on front of a rotary wagon thats green, a crazy looking suzuki turbo, and the jun evo 5. looks like it is a series, serious performance one and 2 it says fours and rotaries real big under them, then it starts with big numbers next to serious performance... i dont know if any of this will sound familiar, seems to me it should be a pretty well known aussie video series, which means it should definatly be available in the uk.

Hey Philuk, I meant to tell you, I have a video from a few years ago, its a fast fours and rotaries video i bought here in the states at Nopi, it has your car in it, driving around on a road course.

Yah, swapping the y-pipe sucks, when i did it, i actually took a spare turbo assembly - the turbos, connecting pipes, y pipe, and manifold off a friends car for a single conversion, put the y pipe on that, and then swapped everything.

Clifton, thats what i mean by notice, i have everything documented and what not, I wasnt very clear on what I meant, if someone told me they wanted me to do the swap for them ahead of time, Ive got all the information in one place or another to have all the piping, mounts, drive shaft..etc made and on my garage floor before they ever showed up.

some japanese cars have three types of fuel/ignition cut as to the 2 we are used too, we are used to a speed cut (when a speed limiter is active) and a Boost Cut ( when boost creep too high). The Japanese car has a Tach cut (the name me and friends give it) which as far as we can tell, matches up the rpm point to a given amount of boost, a/f ratio, fuel delivery etc.. if any of these points are off, the car wont rev past 3000ish rpms. Some people doing the 1jz swap in to supras forget to swap the tach, therefore no signal is scene, and the ecu cuts ignition (the biggest mistake made in the swap). The only ways to get rid of it as far i know is to a) use a standalone/aftermarket ECU or just use the Guts of the 1jz tach. ITs not a constant 12v or whatever sensor, it works on a range. There would be some cutting and splicing involved, but not too terribly much. mostly you would just have to lengthen the stock wiring harness, but the entire 1jz harness is made factory with sheilded cable, so it becomes quite a pain to re-do, as you cant just splice in 3 inches of wire.

Wiring fun stuff. The 1jz harness is pretty complicated, so its a ton of fun. I would suggest to make life as easy as possible, to hook up all aftermarket gauges to it, but there is a sensor on the back of the tachometer that will come with the clip you will have to wire in somehow. Also, buy a supra clip, no traction control or added "fun stuff" to further complicate matter, its the raw version of the motor, which is really what you are after. No need for a clip unless you just want a stock Ic, Radiator, etc etc.. because all that will have to be custom done anyhow, might as well buy a nice frount mount core and a good radiator., as long as you have the Ignitor, motor, tranny, ecu, harness,map sensor, you are good to go. Cant think of anything else really, but you can use a 2jz map sensor if you have some sort of a/f tuner. the mounts shouldnt be too hard to make. I made a cradle and a tranny mount for my set-up which is almost identicle to the 1jz ones, except i used pre 89 supra motor mounts, which are a little different than 89+ (fluid filled).

the swap only took about 2 weeks, however we have been working on a bunch of things for it. If i had time and notice, i could do it in a few days while working and going to school.

k3t comes with everything, doesnt look stock though, has more piping than a super mario game...