jgkurz

The wires look great with the rest of your blue parts. I just bought some custom Magnecor KV85 wires and they are red. Which model wires did get?

Can you say "insta-torque"??? Love that V8 bottom end power! Very nice!!

Thanks for the pics Terry. My hope is that I won't have to move my T-5 transmission mount back from the OEM location. That would make things so much easier.

I've actually installed one these fan's on a friends V8Z. Your right about the amperage draw. They pull some serious AMPS! I know it will cool my friends car but I wasn't sure about how it compares to the 3850 CFM Zirgo fan I mentioned above. I guess there's no real way to verify without installing and testing.

Hi Ford Folks, Well it's time to start planning my next engine project. I think I've taken the L6 as far as it makes sense to go. I'm considering a turbocharged 351 Windsor for many reasons. I think it will provide the power, uniqueness, and engine size I'm looking for. My current transmission is a G-force Borg Warner T-5. I will be changing the bell housing and, if required, the input shaft to match the SBF. My question is this: Will I need to move the transmission back from its current L6 location if I mate it with a 351w? Obviously I'd like the engine as far back as possible. My desire is to keep the trans mount where it's currently located but not if the engine to too far forward. Thanks for any thoughts you might have.

demidian, I'm surprised you are having cooling problems with your setup. Your fan has decent CFM so assuming it's shrouded properly that shouldn't be your problem. Let us know how the new radiator works out. I'll bet that cures the problem. As for us turbo guys we simply have too many heat exchangers on the front of the car.

I have not put the belly pan in that goes below my engine back on. I wonder if cygnusx1 is still running the original pan? I have however sealed my radiator to the back side of the core support and sealed my intercooler and condensor to front side of the core support. None of this helped. I wonder if the belly pan would make a difference?

Yes, still got the stock gauge. Your description is identical to my situation. I also have considered the Taurus fan. Before I start the project I'm trying to make darn sure I'm going to get the results I desire. I am tired of spending money that nets poor results. Right now I'm only guessing a better fan would solve my problem. Sounds like we have a similar setup so one of us is going to have to be the guinea pig. Sorry for the rant.

I used to think my cooling system was good until the three digit temps hit this summer. I have an Arizona Z aluminum radiator with dual 10" fans behind a full face custom shroud. The temp gauge will stay in the middle or slightly past middle when it's 100 degrees or more. Unfortunatley it's game over when I turn my A/C on. Temps start climbing ever so slowly until I turn the A/C off. My problem is I have an intercooler that covers 3/4 of my radiator. My fans don't pull enough CFM through the intercooler and condensor to cool the fluid before it goes back into the engine. Space is tight but I'm thinking about trying a 3895 CFM fan from Zirgo. http://tinyurl.com/rbc6l I'm just not sure I have room for the fan motor let alone a decent shroud. The jury is out whether a single high CFM unshrouded fan is better than two lower CFM fully shrouded fans. Honestly, I'm a little annoyed that I went through the trouble of keeping my A/C and can't even use it. Grrrrrrrr

Hi Cronic, so do you have a dyno date set? If you run on a DynoJet make sure you get the "drf" file so you can import it into the WinPep runtime viewer for later analysis. It's very cool

All I can say is... "It's got a cop motor, a four hundred and forty-cubic-inch plant. Cop springs. Cop shocks. Cop suspension. Cop tires. It was a model made before catalytic converters, so it runs on regular gas. What do you say? Is it the new Bluesmobile or what?" Elwood from THE BLUES BROTHERS June 6, 1979

The T04E 57 compressor wheel will support 26psi or roughly a 2.76 pressure ratio but in an extremely small part of the 73% and 70% islands. It's definitely is a higher pressure wheel. http://majesticturbo.com/30377.html BTW, who makes the 108 octane unleaded? I have had good luck with Sunoco GT Plus Unleaded which is 104 Antiknock Index (R+M)/2 and 109 RON, Research Octane.

That makes sense. My contention is that there is still value from seeing what a power and torque curve look like under certain conditions with a certain setup. Whether it's a supposed 1000HP or 180HP L6, the curve and A/F ratio data is still interesting. We could even setup the site to show iterations of a single owners setup on the same dyno. People will lie, we can't stop that. I believe we as a group would easily be able to determine who's skewing the data and who's legit. The ensuing discussion might actually be a great learning experience for folks trying to use a dyno properly. I don't want to beat a dead horse so I'll call the issue closed. Thank you for answering my request.

Gentlemen, I'm disappointed that a dyno database will not be supported. I believe the extremely knowledgeable people that make up HybridZ would be able extract valuable information if a page was ever created. As always, thank you for your input and the work you do for HybridZ. Repectfully,

Drax240z, I agree that dyno results can be manipulated but as a dyno owner you must know the value of comparing results from tuning changes and different setups. For example, I usually dyno my car on a DynoJet so comparing my graph to a similar setup on a Mustang dyno would look somewhat different. I think most of us know the differences but could still derive value from the comparisons. If we are able to input the pertinent info like, Dyno model, Engine, NOS level, Boost level, Transmission, Gear, Stall, Climate and Altitude I think we could still gain value. If HybridZ was a forum of beginner enthusiasts I would whole heartedly agree with you. However, I believe most of us know that dyno results are a tool and not empirical data. Personally I believe the HybridZ users could benefit from seeing the results of other folks' setup. The Timeslips section is no different in that people can lie to post better results. My observation is that the Admin's and users at HybridZ usually weed out the people who stretch the truth. Maybe we can have some type of disclaimer or make the page private. A forum would better than what we have today but not nearly as useful as a dedicated page. I appreciate your input and exchange of ideas. Thanks for re-considering. Respectfully,

Do they look like this or do they have a mesh pattern?

Hi Admin's, I have an idea I'd like to suggest. Hopefully this hasn't been addressed already. Has HybridZ ever considered adding a section for Dyno results? We could do something like the Timeslips section where we put the specs of the run then attach a picture of the graph. We could have boxes for Dyno model, Engine, NOS level, Boost level, Transmission, Gear, Stall, Climate and Altitude. This could very helpful when comparing setups or for just plain old bench racing. Different dyno’s produce different results but they are still a great baseline for power comparison and tuning. Thanks for considering this request.

Can't wait to see the dyno results.....

Just for reference, My 3.0L L6 made 309.4 RWHP when my boost was limited to 11.5psi. I run a mildly worked over P90 head, N42 intake and L28ET exhaust manifold. My point is that 317RWHP might be possible if the turbo had enough lb/min of air at a 1.6 pressure ratio. An exhaust header certainly would help my setup a great deal. This assumes I add all the other things to take full advantage of the header (better turbo, DP and exhaust) My T4/3 hybrid turbo couldn't make the 317 at 9psi but I bet a newer/more efficient Garrett ball bearing turbo with the Frank's header could. Take a look at the GT40 82mm, 50trim, 0.58 A/R setup. It's far too large for me, but might make Franks claim possible. Then again my boost will never be set to only 9psi so I'll never know...

I've used the "VHT Brake Caliper, Drum and Rotor" paint" with great luck. You need to make sure the caliper absolutely grease and rust free. You'll need a couple coasts at a minimum.

I also talked to Frankie yesterday. He's a nice guy and is very confident about his product. I like the design of Frankie's header better than the SFP header. The SFP header still has cylinder #2 going into the log rather than into the collector. Personally I don't think that equal length tubes with a turbo is critically important. The tubes just need to all merge into the collector. Before I'd buy I would want MUCH higher quality pics and verify pipe ID like Brad-ManQ45 suggests. I also wouldn't buy unless it had an external wastegate flange. Another feature that would be nice but not necessary would be a divided header so a divided entry turbine could be used. Might add a little boost response since each side of the turbine would get three direct exhaust pulses rather than all six colliding into the collector. I have no doubt this header would be a vast improvement over stock but for the money I want all the bells and whistles.....

I agree. I've also been considering an oil cooler my my Z and was told I must have a thermostat so the oil will get up to the proper temperature. Just curious, what temp is considered ideal and what temp is considered too high? I run synthetic oil so I would think higher temps might be more tolerable. I've heard 220 deg F was ideal and 240 deg F was the high side of safe. I'm going to run a track day before I add a cooler. Maybe I won't need one...

You would need a straight flute reamer like this one from Granger. It will finish the bore much smoother than a drill bit. The final bore size should be about .020 less than your O ring diameter. You should also read the SDS link on building fuel rails. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611661853 http://sdsefi.com/techrail.htm