jgkurz

FWIW, I have personally ridden in Steve's car and it runs as well as it looks. It is an L28 with a huge cam. It's sounds like a built V8 at idle. For an N/A car it really pulls hard. I'm not knowledgeable about SU's but the car seemed to drive and start perfectly.

Thanks Scottie!

Hi Scottie, I'm actually upgrading from the 2.5" DP I bought from you years ago. It worked well but I've hit it's limit. Did you make the flanges for your downpipes yourself or did you have a shop make them up? Also, do you remember if the DP pipes were 45 degree bends? Thanks!

I just sent you an email.

Doug, I may have to do that if it comes if that's my only option. Thanks for the advice. Ron, Actually I want to go to a GT35R but that project will take major $$$ to complete. Because I suck at fabrication my car would probably be on blocks for months. I think I might do the upgrade next winter so I can drive it this spring and summer. Going to a true mandrel 3" DP and 3" exhaust should improve boost response and give me a few more HP for cheap.

Hi Folks, I searched for this question and was surprised not to find the info. Basically I need source for a Nissan style 4-bolt T3 turbine flange. I'm building a larger 3" downpipe and cannot seem to find anyone who has these flanges. Can someone enlighten me?

I'm considering seats from these folks. The price is decent and they make brackets for my Z. http://www.arizenracingsports.com/page/arizen/CTGY/Seats

I recently drove two original 1969 Z/28's. One had the crossram and one had the single 4-barrel intake. Although the crossram car was cool to look at it started much harder and made the already poor low-end power even worse. The 4-barrel car was much more enjoyable to drive on the street.

I tried... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113093

Rick is right on with this. I currently use the RC 550cc Pintle style low impedance injectors. I think they are the same 11mm injectors found on DSM's. Over the years I have worked hard to fine tune my idle quality. I run 15 degrees of initial advance, 38 psi idle fuel pressure, Idle PW of 1.71ms, minimum injector PW of 1.1ms, 14 in vacuum and with the O2 sensor on it will idle decent @ 14.2 - 14.5AFR. If I richen it up slightly into the high 13's it will smooth out a bit more. The issue I still have is a lean idle once the injectors get heat soaked. If I restart the car after sitting for a few minutes in the summer the idle AFR will be about 15.5:1 until the injectors get cool fuel flowing through them again. BTW, This is just me shade tree mechanic diagnosis. : )

Ron, You are kill'n me. Too funny.

Thank you everyone for your responses. After looking at all the off the shelf options I think I'm going to make my own wastegate adapter that positions the turbo exactly where I want it. There are plenty of folks who make the T3 flanges and the 38mm wastegate flange so all I need to do is find steel tubing and weld it all up.

I took these during my honeymoon on the Cook Islands in October. Nothing that will win any awards but I liked them. Camera was a Canon SD400. And yes, that is my thumb...

Gotcha. For some reason I assumed the 630HP was crank HP. I've thought of running full sequential with my Tec3 and one option I have found was a cam timing sensor that Ron Tyler (on this forum) made for a friends car. He basically fabricated a distributer like device in place of the factory distributer for the cam timing them used individual coils mounted on a bracket right next to the spark plugs. If I remember correctly the SP wires were about 2" long. Now I got to get back to work myself....

Tim, All I can say it Wow. That kind of power level on pump gas is quite an accomplishment. I aspire to achieve a fraction of your results.... My understanding is that boost creep is caused by the wastegate not being able to divert enough exhaust gas away from the turbine. Typically this is caused by a wastegate that is too small. I'm sure everyone knows this. Your 60MM WG and the way you have it plumbed to your header make this an even stranger problem. Your setup should easily support your goals without boost bleed or creep. My guess is that the GT42 is moving so much more volume through the engine that the boost controller gain and/or duty cycle needs to be adjusted to compensate for the flow change. BTW, I found this website very informative on wastegates. http://tinyurl.com/yg5kdh I have no idea why the EGT's are so hi. I know speeder has struggled with this also so maybe it's related to cam timing or the split pattern profiles we all run in turbo L28's. I know this is a stretch but there has to be something else causing the hi EGT's other than AFR's. We should not have to go below 11.5 to get normal temps. Lastly, I'm not sure why you need larger than 72lb/hr injectors. At 50psi and 77lb/hr you should be able to support 673 crank HP at 80% duty cycle and .55BSFC. This is according the the RC Injector site. If you go to the 150lb/hr won't you start having idle control problems? Maybe you plan on making way more power than your charts indicate? If you really want to get tricky you could use the staged injection capability of the Tec3 and add a second set of injectors.

Chris, Are either of these adapters what you have? http://www.innovativeturbo.com/pages/cart_itemDetails.asp?sku=260002 http://www.innovativeturbo.com/pages/cart_itemDetails.asp?sku=260001 Thanks,

Hi Aaron, Thanks for the offer, I might take you up on it. I'm going to a Garrett ball-bearing turbo which present two new problems. 1) how to fit the larger compressor housing on the OEM manifold and 2) how to install an external wastegate. My car is a 77 so I may have more room for an adapter. BTW, I'm surprised we have not run into each other since we both live in the Portland area. Do you belong to NW Z or go to the Canby Datsun show?

Hi Folks, I've seen this adapter suggested in several threads but nothing about how well it works. Can those of you that have used this adapter provide some feedback on how it fit and if boost control was acceptable? Any additional details would be greatly appreciated. Thank you,

JT, Can you give us some background on the race? Did you play him like he was going to win but you'd race him anyway or did you talk trash that you'd beat him? Great win BTW. You didn't just beat him you whooped him by close to three car lengths.

Thanks Yasin! Your brief explanation was perfect. For those folks who have a 20K engine failure they could do this: http://www.renegadehybrids.com/911/911.html or http://www.toy-jet.ls1fun.com/index.html I can just see the purist squirming over a hybrid 911...

LS2 V8 Miata was definitley making fun of the big three. It's a great thread no matter how imperical the data is... This thread prompts some questions. Let's assume for argument sake that the LS1 and L98 short blocks are similar in weight. Is the major advantage in the more modern EFI and head design? The LSx series engines and especially the LS7 have such a superbly flat powerband for the power they make. Could you get close with a L98 or LT1 with aluminum heads?

Just curious, what's bad about the water cooled? Is it the weight penalty?

Paul, You have nothing to be envious of. Neither Dave or I have been able to best your red Z with the carburated 355ci Chev. Grrrrrrrrrr Next season your times are going down!!!!!

I too would like a tangential fed GT35R but so far the only housing available is the ATP unit which is far too small at a .78 A/R. My understanding is that this housing would be like a .55 standard housing.

What gear lube did you go with? I used the G-Force GF-2000. It works well when the trans is hot but is very notchy when cold. I'm considering going to a Royal Purple lube when I change my clutch out.