jgkurz

The Centerforce part # you have me is a 225mm unit. It might hold an L28ET if the engine was stock. I highly recommend upgrading to a 240mm clutch if you plan to do any mods. I believe the input shaft splines are the same between the Datsun T-5 and the Datsun N/A 5spd.

Hi JeffP, Were you able to dyno your car with the GT35R and .63 turbine housing? I am looking at doing a similar setup and was curious about your results. Thanks for any information or experience you can offer.

Ok Tom.... you've been "outed". You obviously have been humbly hiding this beautiful car for the world to see. The car is stunning. I can't see the rear of the car that well in the picture but do you actually have a functional air diffuser behind the gas tank? I remember your thread on your Greddy Profec B boost controller. What kind of HP and torque did you make on the dyno with the GT35R?

Jeff, can you elaborate on your above statement? My understanding is that the N42 and F54 blocks are the same except for the siamesed cylinder walls in the F54 blocks. Is the offset boring something that's done custom on a build up or are you saying this was done at the factory? In theory, wouldn't the N42 block have weaker cylinder walls?

SuperDan and/or administartors, I was in the Timeslip section and clicked "details" to look at other folks setup and my homepage was listed at the bottom. This occured no matter who's "details" I was looking at. All the other info in the profiles were unique to the user I clicked on but my homepage was always listed. Is this a bug or did my homepage actually get applied to everyone's profile?

My clutch uses a custom full face sintered-iron sprung disk with an ACT 500lb-ft pressure plate. The pedal pressure is heavier than stock but not so much that it becomes annoying in traffic. I bought the setup from: Clutch Specialties 645 S. State College Blvd Unit #H Fullerton, CA 92831 (714) 525-4272 It is the only clutch that has NEVER slips under any circumstance. The problem is the sintered-iron disk is too sticky. There is no middle ground. The clutch just won't slip, even when I want it to.

Hey Z-Gad, I know this has been a while but did your ACT clutch stand the test of time behind your L6? If I remember correctly your L6 made decent torque also. I have a sintered-iron 240mm clutch that NEVER slips but it's getting on my nerves the more I drive the car on the street. I need a clutch that holds around 450ftlbtq but is friendly on the street. Don't we all want the best of both worlds though..... I checked on a dual disk setup and the cost is 1500.00 with a new flywheel.

Agreed! Thanks bjhines for the suggestion.

I use a Wilwood generic valve, lines, and fittings that I purchased as a kit from Ross at Modern Motorsports. The kit was all inclusive and had all the parts ready for installation in my 77 280Z You will have to add the prop valve inline with the brake line that feeds the rear brakes. To do this you will probably need a new braided line from the distribution block. I have a 280Z so the 240Z may be different. The recommended approach is to have full pressure going to your front brakes and an "adjustable" lower pressure to your rear brakes. Even in the OEM system you still had a prop valve that reduced pressure to your rear brakes. BTW, I fixed the problem I described when I started this thread. The front driver side caliper was defective. I did a warranty exchange then re-bled the system. That fixed the problem. Strangely, it was like I could never get the air out of that old caliper. Now it works great!!

The answer is "it depends". For example, how much tuning do you want to do yourself? If you want the flexibility of tuning your engine no matter what changes you make and are OK with going through the long process of perfecting your AFR's then definitely buy a standalone EMS. In my opinion, a standalone EMS can be tuned for better AFR's then a piggy back or modded OEM ECU like Jim Wolf. I'm not saying they are bad; it's just that the AFR's may have more lean/rich spikes because they only use one tune for many cars. With a standalone EMS you can correct anomalies with your specific setup that a piggy back can't or at least won't do as well. A counter point for using a piggy back is that you don't have to go through the long, long, long effort to get the system running well. It will run reasonably well out of the box. There were many days when I wondered why I bought a standalone. It was tough to see my friends out enjoying their cars while I was still tuning. I have learned a lot during the process and have my car tuned better than most piggy back/OEM modified systems but it took time and patience. Just my .02C

I've not heard the straight-cut version of the G-Force T-5. If they are much louder than my 9310 helical cut gear I'd have to wear my Bose noise cancelling headphones. Trust me, the helical gears will be louder than you might expect, especially a 3rd gear downshift.

I have a G-force T-5 in my Z and it has it's benefits and it's drawbacks. It shifts quite well once the gear lube is at operating temperature, much better than expected. I am now able to upshift above 5500RPM without the slight grind you get from a stock T-5 or Datsun transmission. The big drawback is pretty major gear noise. This tranny is a serious whiner. For me getting the strength and reliability was a trade-off I was willing to make.

I've been very happy with my FJO WB setup. It will output the 0-5v you require. I recommend it if you want to make it a permanent part of you car. If not, I'd buy the LM1.

Mayolives, The dyno is such an expensive way to tune your car. For the cost of some dyno tuning sessions you could buy a cheap laptop and tune yourself. In my opinion, it's nearly impossible to tune all aspects of a standalone EFI just on the dyno. One benefit of most dyno's is they have a wideband sensor to give you much more accurate AFR readings. This is just a educated guess, but I would bet the problem with the hesitation is not your Profec B but the tuning on your Tec3. There are many people with Electromotive systems on this forum that should be able to provide a wealth of information to help you tune yourself. There are several people on this forum that I how huge thanks to for helping me get my car running well. I would be happy to help. Ideally we need the Tec3 .dat log file, dyno file, dyno graph and the Tec3 bin file.

Mayolives, I assume you mean Tec3R engine management system and not just the ignition. I also have a Tec3. What I'd suggest is data logging a run that includes the hesitation. That way we could get the big picture of what the car is doing including the MAP readings. Your EBC is a great unit and should be problem free. Can you send me a log?

I've been very happy with my Bridgestone RE750's. They are a little more than the 100.00/per but well worth it in my opinion. http://tinyurl.com/gskhz

My understanding is the S blade fans are quieter but move a little less air. The straight blade fans are suppose to move more air (CFM) but are noisier. Whether I use the Zirgo or a Flexalite fan, I think (hope) a large high CFM fan plus a removing my faulty shroud with be a big improvement. With the intercooler tubing I don't have room for the Volvo or Taurus fans... Thank you for the comments.

I agree with Mike. Idling in stop and go traffic with A/C on is a real test of a cooling system. Additionally I think the way a fan and shroud are setup have a great deal of affect on the way air flows through the radiator. I have recently learned that my dual 10" fan and custom shroud setup is far less than ideal. I built a flat aluminum shroud that basically covers the whole backside of my Arizona Z radiator. I then cut two 10" holes for my fans. The flaw in this approach is that my so called shroud is flat and roughly 1/2" from the core. This does not allow the air to funnel air into my fans. Basically I only have two ten inch holes that are being cooled with the rest of the radiator having no air flow. With the flat shroud removed and a large single caged fan installed I think the air coming in through the grill will pass through the radiator properly and out through the hood vents. For the hood vents to work properly I think the OEM belly pan should be installed.

Justin, You may be on to something My turbo was built by the now "out of business" Innovative Turbo. Below are the specs that I'm aware of. My recent dyno run's showed that between 4600RPM and 5600RPM my HP was almost completely flat at 370RWHP. It's like it got to 4600 and just stopped building power. I'd like to go to a GT35R but that will take some major re-work of my downpipe, exhaust manifold and intercooler tubing. My guess is that the compressor side in my current turbo is too small. If I could determine that I for sure don't have turbine back pressure I would probably have my compressor side changed to a simple 60-1 instead of the crap I have now. That way I could make an improvement without any major fabrication. My original goal, like Yasin, was 400RWHP of which I'm a little short. If I could make more than 17psi at the higher RPM's I might make it. I would guess that my head and exhaust system could also be improved. I think I need to have BRAAP do a head for me...... Getting to the next stage in power is going to be VERY expensive. Compressor housing: T04E .50 A/R with 3" inlet (Kind of small but allows no spacer to clear exhaust manifold) Compressor wheel: Custom Innovative wheel that supposedly supports 60lb/min CHRA: 360 degree bearing, water cooled with big shaft Turbine housing: OEM Nissan .63 A/R with machined 2.5" outlet Turbine wheel: T3 stage V 10 blade Yasin, Sorry for the hijack. I hope this is helpful info.

Ok, here's an interesting one. The below graphs are from my 3.0L L28ET with a under-sized internally wastegated T4/T3. I had the internal wastegate hole drilled out to around 1 3/16". I then fabricated a stainless steel lawn mower valve as a larger flapper door. Lastly, I changed out the actuator to an adjustable billet unit from Forge Motorsport. http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0001&product=FMAC048 My electronic boost controller is a Biltz dual solenoid model with the boost sensitivity set at only 10%. My problem has not been boost creep but boost bleed. I have run as high as 25psi at the onset of boost and it bleeds down to about 17 psi at the higher RPM's. My guess is that my pre-turbine pressure grows as the engine climbs in RPM thus pushing the wastegate door open instead of going through the turbine. Boost stability is relatively flat at 13PSI or lower. To solve this I really need a new turbo, turbo header and a properly sized external wastegate. 310 RWHP with a max of 12.5 PSI 373RWHP with a max of 21.4PSI

I don't plan to run the 90/10 mixture permanently, it was just for troubleshooting. The proper fix is to get a better fan and more effective shroud.

I totally concur. Great post! I vote for a sticky.