Dayz

Jeff, I said it before...disconnect the fuel inlet from you rear carb and see if you have gas coming...Make sure gas is going in the carb. Make sure all vacuum are plugged, are they adjusted properly? Make sure the bowl vent is free...It is just a vent. Also, I don't see your fuel return line from the pictures, are you sure its there, is your pump pumping enough gas? Remember that you need a return line (or a sort of bypass), and your lines need to be clean, not plugged in any way. Maybe his can help...I only have 2 vent for the booster and vac. advance, but you get the point. Save the pic and Zoom in. It was not finished at that point.

I run similar adapter. 240sx and Maxima calipers have the same mount width, both will fit. What we need to know is the thickness of the bracket or the spacing between the mounting side of the bracket and the hub mounting point. Here is what I have. I am using late 280zx/maxima calipers with Maxima rotors.

Jeff, Sorry for getting back to you so late. My carb was buried in boxes. Pieces are not good, at least not good enough to sell. Sorry about that. You can find a cheap set, I am sure. Dayz

Will check tonight. Dayz

Not a bad price ...go for it if you want nice carbs. Dayz

Great to hear. Rebuilt kit just gives you gaskets and the "valve" not the needle nor the nozzle. You will realize that it is expensive. ...I would find a used set if I were you...I can find a rear carb only in my boxes if you are interested? I can let you know. Dayz

Jeff, You don't need to separate any linkage. Unbolt the 4 nuts on each carbs...The linkage won't work because here is a rear one and a front one. As long as the throttle spring is attached somewhere, the car won't be revving to hell. No need for the chokes. Also - you can just put gas by hand in the throat of the rear carbs and see if it fires and work that way. Don't need to put much gas, you can feed it with a little squeezing bottle. You can try this first before switching carbs. Good Luck

Jeff, If you have a new Gasket, you can but shouldn't be an issue. Try reversing the carbs, if it still works only with the front (with the rear carb) you will know both carbs are working. It it only works in the rear, then the problem is with the carb. Later...I am sure, Dayz

Make sure you have no leaks...loosen the balance tube before tightening the intake bolts. re-tighten balance tube afterward. I cannot see anything wrong at this point, try putting rear carb in the front and vice-versa. That will tell you if it is carb related! Post back after...it is not easy to repair your car from here sitting in my chair.

Can you take a picture of your carb and hoses? I don't remember hose schematic on top of my head. Every hoses can be blocked and the engine will run...You are confirming that the carb suck gas, if there is gas in the bowl, after you crank the motor there isn't any gas? Am I right? Did you do a compression test? and you are definitely sure you have spark. Problem shouldn't be to far. If you can send a pic of your hoses, it would be great, that could be the culprit.

So you get spark. Now, make sure you have no air leaks- Check again. Block the hoses if any that should go to the air cleaner...if any. Check again to make sure there is no leak. If this is OK, it will be a Fuel delivery problem, for sure.

Is you distributor set at the right place...In your case I would believe it is. Next check your firing order...remember, the distributor is rotating counter-clockwise. Do you have a service manual? Distributor orientation http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140191&highlight=oil+shaft Spark Plug placement http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132795&highlight=firing+order After this, If something was wrong, try to start it. You can also take the wire off a plug, put a screwdriver where the plug should go, put it very close to any engine part, the park should be able to travel from the tip of the screwdriver and exit at the closest point of a ground...(middle of the screwdriver) Or try another plug and lean it against a ground and see if you have spark. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged and your connection to the coil are good.

Make sure your spark happen at the right time in the right cylinder. Post back when you confirm this, we will go through the problem.

You are sure you have spark?...plugs are a the right place?

1- make sure you have spark - Dismantle the spark plugs (rear) and test them against the block. 2- Make sure you have fuel going in the carb - Dismantle the inlet line put it in a bucket and see if there is fuel coming out. 3- Check your float height, dismantle it and clean it. Make sure there is no dust blocking it. 4- Dismantle the fuel hose from the bowl to the carb and see if you have fuel coming there. - Also, measure your intake as no leaks...if you dismantled it, it might have a gap somewhere between the head and the intake, or the carb and the intake, or the Balance tube and the intake. ... If it was working before and you didn't do anything to the carb, and moves very easily, it should still be OK. The needle is straight- the suction tube is well adjusted, your spring is OK...it should be OK. Check these vids on Youtube - It will help

LowcarbZ, if you are in Toronto at one point, I can lend you a cover if you want. I have a couple laying around, just give me the old one when you are done with it !!!

Guys, I need couple of parts to finish my project. I misplaced them...and truly don't know where they are...I suspect the wife I need: - Hatch grill for a series1 - One or 2 would be great. As long as the pins are in the back. Don't matter if they don't look new. - Hatch vent Series 1 - see pic - I need 2 - Hatch emblems - Both, again, as long as the pins are there - Hood emblem, as long as the pins are there. Thanks guys...help me drive this car...It has been 3 years - And I want my garage back!! Dayz

I see them often from 10-12K Canadian $ ( 8500 US$) here in the papers. So when our friend Rusty says 7000 US$, he is right, and yes that is for a GTR. A friend of mine use to import those to resale, he was selling them as is for 10 000$ Canadian (8000 US$) at his door. He now imports other vehicle. As some have said, here in Canada, we can import anything over 15 years - In the US it is 25 years. The law is changing, Canada is going towards a 25 years as well, my guess is because of emission testing. From what I have heard, you can import a car with less than 15 or 25, but is needs to be converted to pass emission testing. This doesn't apply to all cars, but some. Careless, They don't use the salt in Japan in the winter, hence why the car are much nicer, and the Zinc is still on the bolts. Same goes for engine and...

Well, I cannot help you with the size you are looking at....(I was in the same bind as you at the time...we don't have much of those shops in Toronto) I have decided to go with 2.5 Stainless exhaust all the way. I have enough tubing and bends left for another one...It is taking space in my garage. Shoot me a PM if you are interested, I will let it go for cheap. Dayz

I cannot speak by experience, but some of my friends owned some 740 Sport Version (short wheelbase) and they were spending more time at the mechanic than anything else. I never really looked at their problem, but mostly electronics. Don't get me wrong, I love that car. At the time I was also considering a S500 or Jaguar XJR and finally went with a cheap daily driver and invested my money elsewhere. Today I would still look at them, if you can repair them yourself and don't mind doing it, I am sure it is a great car. Any high end European car have their problems...the look is amazing ! I guess you give at some places to gain elsewhere. I say go for it, you will need time and/or money to fix it and know what you are getting into. Dayz

Finally had time to get under that car. The clunking noise I was hearing was coming from a mix of slight brake misalignment and diff...but the things still vibrates as hell. I put it in 4, blocked one wheel, and it seems the spider gears aren't turning smoothly. I guess that would be a good test. The whole car vibrates. (this is testing it on 4 jackstands). I started a new thread, about how to check spider gears. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1019632#post1019632 Thanks for your help guys...I need more from the diff gurus, Dayz

After reading JMortensen's sticky, I believe my spider gears are bad...I have other diff in the shop and would like to make one out of them. R180 Diff. I do I go about checking the spider gears/carriage - How to measure them... I have taken it appart, I cannot seem to get the pin out...I belive the 2 pinion gears on the shaft have loose which gives a excessive backlash, which makes it not smooth. Am I right here? Is that possible? How do I get to repair this? Thanks Dayz

Repetitive clunk...not a single one. I would assume Spider gear would be a single one...Am I right? I meant that the clunks happens when reversing>faster = louder/more repetitive clunks, and forward = only when going very slowly. At speed, I don't hear anything. Thanks guys...yes the running car on Jackstand is a good idea, I just hate doing that, after hearing a couple of horror stories!! Thanks Dayz

You are saying spider gear would cause that? I feel it in reverse and really slowly in forward... I will still suspect my mounts before the diff...how do I check them? I want to make sure they are all right before buying new ones. Thanks Dayz

New mustache bar bushing, energy suspension ones. All the bushings on the car are new, strap seems still tight, wheel bearings are new, diff is rebuilt. Any other ideas are welcome...it is a series 1 by the way, maybe the axle angle have something to do with this. Thanks Dayz