Mudge

He's coating them to avoid oil sticking to them.

A dealership should be able to tell you, or try www.CamaroZ28.com msg board.

Yeah, do you think Dodge/Ford or Chevy were using it? I wonder... A solid flat tappet cam in a rotary car, very interesting... Yep, I had a cop (white one at that) pull me over in my 94 Camaro for excessive exaust note. The car was making 411 RWHP with a biggy cam/heads etc, and he commented that it sounded like it needed a tune up, no duh jerkoff (I love that sound), obviously the guy grew up around Honduhs. I ran a 234/246 (Isky) cam which will definitely give you a nice lumpy idle.

Ditto, same car. Mezierre people on the other hand have had problems.

...and with all this in mind what would I most want to have? A stroker with a nice fat cam, I'd get some torque back and I'd still have my beautiful top end! Leave the short stroke stuff for real race cars in limited size classes!

There is at least one with a 400SBC in the For Sale section.

$150k and only 450HP? That guy got reamed. The GT40 is my favorite F*rd.

Huh? Your thinking backwards, you would be able to stick with low viscosity oil for better flow with a cooler. Oil temps in my car have gone up to about 270º IIRC, with a cooler and 6 quarts, stock cooler in a 94 Camaro. Road racing gets the car hot pretty fast, especially in 90º+ heat.

If I was doing that with stock crap hypers, you should be fine RPM wise, as for stretch I'll let others comment.

What kind of RPM are we talking, I did 7,000 RPM on a stock bottom cast piston LT1 just fine. KBs come highly recommended by those that know, but as far as real high RPM use I don't know.

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/229.html

I dont know how a blower would mount to the side of the block, since it needs to steal power from the engine to make boost. Go turbo

ATF, Kerosene, or Marvels Mystery Oil. Solid lifters, rock on, any other mods you guys are doing to make those work? Oil restrictors etc? Would love to see a writeup on those.

If you want power AND reliability build an NA car, absofreakinlutely. I made 411 RWHP out of my LT1 with a 234/246 cam, and of course ported heads yada yada. I made that power about 600RPM short of where I should have peaked, due to an ignition miss. That was with shorty headers, even with shorties it was supposed to hit 425/430 RWHP, stock bottom end. Its not 450, but with a bigger cam and such a light car it should not be a problem, I had stock rear gears with that car as well. If you want dead on reliable there is no question in my mind that NA is the way to go. As a road racer, even in a 3400 pound car (approximitely), I can tell you that the car will be ******* undriveable, especially if you end up weighing in at 2300 pounds. It takes a serious driver to take corners in that thing, I could be WOT for about 3 seconds in that car at Thunderhill. When being a little too fiesty, I went sideways into the dirt at about 120 MPH. If you truly want to race the car, be reasonable, and make it a 13/14 second car, and build up HP later on. Once you hit the track, you will find you wont have to slow down as much as heavier cars in the corners, and you will run rings around many of the other cars. Get some rubber and brakes on there, springs/shocks, and voila.

The Fords also sound awesome (even though it still hurts a little to say that ). I wonder if they are small enough to put off the shelf shorty headers in there, if so that would be yet another big +. Otherwise I had plans to take block huggers and try to stretch them out. With the T5 and 302 being under 600 pounds, yet another plus! Yet another item on the agenda is find out how to program the damn things, I do know a Mustang dyno shop in San Jose (or was it Santa Clara) in case you need to get some dyno time, I imagine that most of the Ford stuff is EPROM (removeable chip, not re-flashable). Donor 5.0 cars can be had for around a grand if your lucky

Long dowel would be for the 95+ LT1, porting iron heads? Ouch, have fun!

The 400s were a block, a truck block with a different crank/bore. You can however bore/stroke a 350, most I have ever heard of for a street car 350 is 422 cubes. LS1s are up to 432 now, but super strokers are pretty costly (lots of block clearancing work, reworking the sleeves). 383/396 is a cheaper Chevy, or again the 400 block, if you choose to look hard enough to find one. A Ford 302 is tempting though, I just haven't found info on how people are sticking them in though, and I am not a Ford guy so I am at square 1.

32 valve brakes? I think he got some brain cells crossed up there...

BTW, Competition Cams uses HR, and HR113 is a cam of thiers, so I'd bet there is a good chance its not a Crane.

For a compromise progressive/dual/tripple rate springs are ok, for racing then I agree that straight rate is BETTER but I have known people happy with these, and have ridden in a dual rate Eibach Pro Kit spring Trans Am and the ride is just fine and the guy is a talented driver (races a third gen RX7).

I know a guy at a race shop who does Trans Am etc stuff (and some Supra etc) that did a set of LT1 heads for me on the side, I may send my stuff that way yet again. I got 411 RW from my NA daily driver, 5.7L LT1, with shorty headers and an ignition miss which cost me about 600 RPM.

He has no idea what it is approximately in duration? The two I remember are a 222/230 and a 234/242 I believe...

The guys that do this run an injector and plug in the exaust pipe, I have seen a kit online but for the money its a waste. I think there was also a small secondary fuel pump. http://www.hotrodsetc.net/flamekit.html

Full length headers? Does anyone know if this is still available? I'll try digging into thier catalog sometime, I was thinking of taking block huggers and stretching them into shorties.

Left click and DRAG the link to the IE Address bar, that will work with Geocities and Tripod etc.