Mudge

Thats the beauty of fuel injection and "complete" control over fuel and timing I ran a good sized cam with stock rear gears, and a 26.1" tire and it ran great. With 91 MTBE I was limited on how much timing I could run down low, which is quite unfortunate - only because I felt like I lost about 30# off-idle TQ (felt like it...) when I had to remove timing from a couple hot spots in the MAP range, it was a freaking beast but I'd run into ping and could not get rid of it without losing the power, I played with alot of cells 1 by 1 and could not make the power without the ping. Dyno started at 2500 RPM and I made 325TQ, peaked at 385 TQ at the wheels with 411 RWHP. Yes it had less power from 1000-1400, but I didn't have to burn up the clutch or get new gears, I really feel that the fuel is piss easy to tune, the magic is all in the timing. 2 pulls on the dyno and I had 50# TQ versus when I pulled in there, so fixing the fuel is pretty easy. I ran a 234/246 on a 110 LSA, and it was a daily driver at the time 3.42 rear gears and 60MPH at the top of first, I ran open loop (bit of a story to why) and got about 17 MPG average running no leaner than 14.9:1, although I know a guy with similar numbers who was able to get near 20 giving up some timing here and running around 15.2:1 (at the leanest MAP range). I am very preferential towards FI based on my limited experiences, you can really and truly tune a "big" powered car and still pull good street numbers with FI. There was a stock LT1 Camaro doing nearly 40 MPG on an open loop DFI tune just as proof of what COULD be done with tuning. It can be dangerous on these cast LT1 pistons and our crappy Californian gas, but anyway. Sorry for the ramble, back to transmissions!

Since we dont really have a lower control arm mount to stuff it onto, its pretty much got to stick to the frame lines/body, where on the Chevy cars they can pretty much tie to the lower control arm mount, or I guess on the older cars the leaf spring "mount." So I believe we have to end up cutting into the floor a bit, I'd like to do this sometime, probably will use roll bar tubing though.

If your not putting any big wheels on the car, probably a regular set of drop springs would make you happy is my guess. I dont have any strut braces on the car yet but supposedly it is good for the front, I know on my Camaro it was a noticeable difference, but that is a much heavier car. Basically stiffening up the chassis takes it out of the loop as bending at every suspension naunce, thusly making your suspension more effective. After lowering the car get an alignment to your desired specs, if you dont AutoX or race the car formally you probably would want to stick with 1º negative camber or maybe even .5º negative, I ran -1.5º on the Camaro and didn't have bad tire wear issues, but some of that could be scrubbing the outside off during track events, who knows. I wish I had more neg camber actually because the car pushed a bit (they tend to want to do that anyway). Another thing you should cover is new strut inserts, especially with a lower, slightly stiffer ride. With less suspension travel it will be a bit harder for the struts to do thier job, and old ones might not be up to the task, especially if they have never been replaced or only replaced once in the cars life.

I would bet the ink is dead on mine, I was just confused with the black being refered to as HPS+ as if somehow mine should have been another color. I am only familiar with black and blue, blue being what alot of the race folks use with heavier cars. Anywho I do have the HPS according to the box, they dont say HPS+ (for sure...), and they seem fine to me as a good all around improved pad. The only pad that I've seen very bad reviews on more than once is the EBC greenstuff, although I thought I saw one person say that on a light car they did ok, yet I've seen 2700-3800 pound car guys say they last about 1k miles at best, which is HORRID. I dont pay alot of attention to brake dust other than track days, which is when it gets THICK, so I dont clean the wheels every week like someone else might, its not a show car so...

I haven't invested enough time checking it out, maybe I will do that. I take it that it would be more sensors than ZXT requires, they are GM sensors so they are out there, but hacking them into place and suck and exactly which are required I'm not up to speed on. I am not even fully running yet on the stock setup so I have a ways to go before I look for more juice...

What is in the injection kit? For "only" $325 its something to think about, I am just wondering what could be fabbed or bought on your own without ending up paying $500-$600 for a band aid. Even if hex editing a 300ZXT computer is more work I think being able to play with things directly is more tempting than hacked in solutions, some of this is just being able to play with the LT1 computer and being used to having "complete" control. Has anyone here invested some time with a Megasquirt? I've seen it talked about only briefly, if even one person had a half decent map to work with it would make it even more tempting.

Len came to take a look at the car yesterday, and I am missing an important relay apperantly, and I dont even have a plug for it. This must have been one of the very few things I left on the car somehow thinking it was unimportant, crap. So I think to fix that problem I need a wiring diagram, its a 6 prong style connector with only 5 prongs, so if I can find another like it maybe I can draw up a pinout and wire up one without too much hassle. When I got home yesterday my battery was SO dead it barely even turned on a 10w light, it was charging at 7 amps on a slow charger so it was very much dead As I left it this morning it was around 2A, so it is charged enough that it should work, when I can fix a couple things hopefully later today. I have lost so much sleep lately I am phsyically taxed and the brain is starting to go as well, I'm a bit heavy so I think getting up from under the car and rolling around on my back all the time just plain wore me out (sounds lame I know). I dont even own a creeper, with my big jack I think I may have enough clearance to use one without hopefully bending the crap out of the crossmember, but with a 50" chest I need plenty of clearance. So anyhow, its not done yet, but I am at least learning what is important/not important on the car, and it really needs almost nothing wired. Oh, Len also swears there should be more wire going to that coil which is obviously a problem, I litterally have + and - and nothing else, coil is grounded at the intake man area and I have a + right now coming off a relay (for the time being), which goes to a block under the coil which is a 2 prong -| style resistor. I didnt pull the coil so I'm not sure what else would have been there... What does your setup look like?

That is an easy explanation, although this will not help with your cooling problems. Water pump pushes the water to the top hose and lets gravity do some of the work to "drain" the coolant mixture to the bottom and back into your block. Otherwise the pump would be a sucker, and they are set as a pusher. So now you know your radiator works, since it is coming out cooler, which it is supposed to do As for running hotter on the freeway the only thing that comes to mind is maybe you have something blocking the rad, or that there is a large air gap letting air avoid the rad, which would only be because of some modification you may have made perhaps? Otherwise I am lost...

The compound and backing plate is black, but the box says HPS... hmm

I usually only use 3 of my 5 gears as well, thanks to the worthless 3.90 rear 195/60 15" wheels. I am into 4th around 28-30 MPH, anything over 35-40 MPH and I'm in 5th.

I've heard of 265s, I actually saw it, on a 14" wheel though. Diameter, and having coil overs or not is going to make a difference. Fender flares, people dont really tub these cars that often.

The ignition system doesn't suck that badly, does MSD even offer one for the LS1? Why?????????? 70HP, yeah thats BS, they are awesome cars though. I'd do a cam swap almost first thing for power, 390-400+ RWHP on stock heads is so easy it makes me sick. If you can get your 383Z to hook it should be good, but alot of guys with power have no bite at all and it does not reflect well, I see cars HP for HP getting the same times as the heavier counterparts, what do you do when you can't step on the gas but your in 4th gear? You drive slowly.

6'2" 238 pounds, leg room is fine, headliner interferes with the hair a bit, mostly wearing a helmet makes seat positioning suck a bit, otherwise I fit in the 73 just fine minus having to bend over to get in the car etc My car is also lowered a bit, so its kind of like getting into a kit car, must be clausterphobic getting into a Countach or GT-40!

You think right, generally the Fbody gets everything the next year, in some form or another. There are differences between the heads/intake and computer at a couple points, otherwise the same engine. I believe the top ring was revised in 2000 or 2001 to deal with oil consumption with certain driving styles (low load high RPM).

The 1993 Fbody LT1 is a close ratio trans. With most of us running smaller tires, gearing should not be a problem with the .5 OD. Even with 411RWHP heads/cam car I could lug 55 MPH in 6th (would not advize it), that puts me around 1450 RPM IIRC. http://www.f-body.org/gears

What kind of day is today, where we wont wave our own flag for fear of pissing off the people that hate our country?......... Does that sound like the beginning of an end to a civilization or what? This I ask of my fellow Romans...

I dont mind having a BOV, I think its cool and alot less sinful than LEDs in my window squirters.

It looks like it was a dune buggy contest to reach a check point the fastest, and he was last.

Ok, air distribution effecting actual AF at each cylinder. I had roughly 2 hours sleep, so my wording is not fantastic. Ok, I dont see how my post pissed you off, but if this is for looks alone, go for it. Good luck

With the power I could easily appreciate a 6 speed, heck I own one. Big rear end gears and still maintain very low RPM on the freeway, one part of the 60s that I am glad is gone is cruising at 4000 on the freeway. For now a 6 speed suits me fine, but I'm driving an L6 which doesn't have all that much power, and with the turbo setup I am not going to be running 4.11s or even 3.90s (although I am now), with the late model NA 5 speed and some decent tires it will do just fine on the commute, only thing is high speed stuff will still put me at a pretty high RPM (interstates). I love em, but without a V8 in the car it isn't going to happen for me personally.

There is always the T56, it may be one of the cheaper 6 speed options. There are other import 6 speeds out there also, but it may be cheaper to adapt an LT1 T56 to one of the RBs. It has been done on an L6 by a Turbo L6 510 guy on the board.

Yeah, get a friggin car transported to a 4x4 body already! Then we can redneck it in style... I wonder if they even talk gear swaps to make up for thier setups, that would be the icing on the cake, what a joke. I have to wonder how it feels like to, going from ~200 pounds weight in wheels/tires to around 400!

On my Camaro my HPS pads are black, and I'm certain they are not HPS+, is there something screwy with the colors here? From my experience the Hawks get a thumbs up as an improved street pad, but again I haven't tried them on the Z yet, dont have enough tire for more brakes.

I saw a couple go for $20-$30 just last week, but the market will always vary. If they were $5 or $10 I'd feel ripped off, but there is nothing to piss about over a few bucks

http://ally.stw-bonn.de/RCCar_video.wmv You know this beats a potato gun in the pimp department.