Mudge

Unless the seller told you it had a larger cam installed, it could just be running poorly, i.e. vacuum leak or etc. I have a 3.90 rear and early 5 speed, and the 2.4L would do a burnout with no problems. Hope you can get it figured out.

I have an 83 turbo EFI schematic, but the car (73 w/82ZXT) will still not fire. So, I am tracking down the wiring that goes through the firewall into the cabin, the only thing the EFI diagram covers here is to the ignition and to the computer, the ignition is already spliced into my stock 73 harness and I've checked the EFI portion of the harness, distributor, injectors all go back to the proper pins on the ECU. One thing that raises my eyebrow, there is a second green relay that is labeled EGI relay, this is not the one shown on the EFI diagram however, it is in the car and has a seperate wire color scheme, on of the wires is cut, its about 22g (thin) and is solid black. So, if anyone has this it would be greatly appreciated, william@fortmason.org can accept large attachements, if anyone has it. Thanks!

Oh well, I knew it would be better to keep it just incase, although I was told it was one of Nissans overkill parts. I wanted to remove it to make getting at the oil stuff easier, and get rid of clutter (evil)!

I've had some of those! I say too, that I watch my rear like a hawk when I'm on my way home from long trips on the interstate or freeway.

Moby, the motor attached to the plastic Y peice over your valve cover you can get rid of if you like. Supposedly it only kicks on at something like 230º coolant temp anyway, and I dont plan to see that high coolant temps. I think I have it saved anyway though.

Getting a donor vehicle or just ripping out an entire turbo engine, would probably save you money over a rebuild unless your doing the refresh yourself, even then it would be $500 pretty easily if not more.

http://www.azbcsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=azspeed&Product_Code=ASM-1018 Raw fuel rail stock.

I'm glad I haven't looked at the second one

It should be lopey yes, thats what rough "means" and anything with a powerband that kicks in heavier at 2500+ is a little racey for the street. Some of that stuff can be misleading though, if properly tuned a car should not surge, it should be relatively linear powerband, although there will always be a certain RPM range where it is a bit weak. Give the car some gear and you should have no problem driving it on the street, gas mileage will change of course.

Mine? I'm just going off what I was told, since you know the Hondas better maybe your right, I really dont know.

I've checked the wiring on that one, hooks up to 17/36/8 on the computer wiring and BW hooks to BW on the EFI relay. I litterally think I have to draw out the entire wiring diagram, because I've tested each circuit several times on the EFI harness, and the EFI gets power, as does the coil.

If you have the whole thing there, you would be better off with the whole engine swapped. Since you wont have to buy a new headgasket, you should break even if not come out ahead with the cost of renting a cherry picker, mine cost me $24 a day. Once you go past stock boost levels, the NA piston ringlands are at risk of death, detonation or not. They are cast pistons to begin with, so you'd be pushing your luck even more with weakening the piston further, by using a stock block. It has of course been done though, its just risky, at least one person has blown the bottom end that I've seen on this site.

Get some big rubber on the car, and you have your cheap Cobra/Viper.

Wow, I've felt 110 before (wasn't soaking wet thankfully!) but 220 must feel wierd!

Yeah, unfortunately alot of the import wheels can suck for weight, weighing more than 2" wider stuff for American cars! If your going to drop that much cash and then need spacers, they better be light IMO. Centerlines may not be as "cool" depending on what style you like, but they fit right off the bat and are$400-$500.

Heck, I know, must be alot easier with so much less weight, equivalent to about 4 passengers...

I wired the fuel pump seperate from OEM. It does turn on, and I had it unhooked from the rail to check it. I have pin 10 (gl) on the ECU grounded (neutral safety), and pin 5 (y/w) to the transistor negative. I took off injector clip #6 and hooked it to the VOM, after cranking for about 7 seconds I still got no voltage.

moridin, I spaced out on this one, totally forgot... I also didn't think, well the engine is in the friggin way, to measure this spec. So the next best thing I could figure (easily by myself) was to measure: Inspection lids (outer to outer) 49.75" In front of the radiator bracing inside each fender 39.5" Dont know if that helps at all, measuring from the studs though with the engine in place apperantly though is not as easy as I thought, doh.

Handling and turn in is going to take some getting used to, with different track like that. If thats the case a footnote should be added to the product area I'd think?

After the TB? BOV in the intake manifold?

Thats in the 600+ category I was eluding to, wheelspin in every gear, unless he was just spending time in 4th - I count pauses as if a full gear run.

Yep, I know this now. Has a transistor/ignitor only, my problem now is no fuel delivery.

I have a 411RWHP/385RWTQ LT1 Camaro, and even with its pigish weight it is at the level of damn fast through traffic and throws you in the seat, it is the first car I've had that litterally feels like your being pushed into the seat on the freeway when I hammer it into second (stock rear gears, I can do 60 in first). With 1000 less pounds, it must be monsterous, if you can get enough tire under it. I imagine grip will be a problem without weight over the tires, I would think most cars setup well should have no problem staying straight on the freeway, unless we are talking 600+ HP people.

Have a solid green light to the ECU, fuel pump still works have power to the coil, still wont fire but at least its progress. I also have pin 5 (y/w) to the neg term on the ignitor, and b/w from the ign also, so that stuff is covered. Injectors wont fire... any ideas?

Hard to say, a 470 RWHP Camaro can run a 10.8@130, either way its damn fast. Scottie, you were running the small automatic C4 rear?