Mudge

At least he was driving a slow car

Cars dont idle or daily drive at 97db, tracks nearby have WOT rules lower than that, dont worry about it.

Ask if it has LSD or just spin the wheels off the ground.

With heads like that shoot for 500-600 at the wheels! 200cc intake runner gave me good torque and over 400 at the rear.

Geocities does not allow remote linking.

These guys are in CA just call them.

LT1 uses angled 90º angled plug wires, its going to depend on your setup/clearance yada yada. A V8 car in a Datsun though, I think with fenders being where they are you would probably want angled. I've been using pre-made stuff, but there is nothing wrong with making your own either, get exactly the length you need.

My dad always throws a couple wheels/tires under the car, what always made me nervous was idiots who come lean on your car while your under it. Rock test or not, that is stupid and ticks me off because of the lack of consideration.

https://web9.tdl.com/jags/OrderingBooks.html Seems to work fine, your page must have timed out or your browser is outdated perhaps.

Since it was a blown car, I doubt the use of 7k RPM, why not look at what is in the PCM? That is the best way to find out. $69+$20+$65 My 94 has the connection to the coil module that you show, plus two more connectors that connect side by side at the top of the coil.

This reminds me of a local story that happened to I think an 18 or 19 year old, working under a jeep. Crushed the kid to death after it slipped. Also happened to my girlfriend's cousin, working under an Impy and the rear started to fall but she was there to pull him out luckily for him.

Got alot done, but routing that oil cooler is a real sunnava beach, mostly due to the bent tubing that it has and the obviously different installation method vs the 280ZXT car. For anyone doing the swap, run your fuel lines when the driveshaft is down out of the way Didn't even touch the wiring, partly wanted to wait till last to let my mind work on the issues at hand, and try to absorb what everyone has said, yada yada. Got most of the grunt work out of the way, 1-2 more days and I think I'll be done, but then again who knows.

Check coil resistance if you haven't already done so, when coils go bad its often fast.

Guy, the LT1 has a built in rev limiter. I think its 5700 or 5800 stock, due to the stamped rockers and powerband. You can raise it to 7k if you had the need/want.

It would have to be pretty darn lean not to idle, usually a lean idle car would just run very weak especially going from idle to part throttle, but it should idle... Looked at the plugs? 82ZXT Automatic A18-602 043 and an ink stamping that says 2211

Since the intake is being force fed, you dont need nearly the total duration on the intake side. However if you dont have exaust velocity then the turbo wont make the boost that it could. More intake duration is a bandaid for poor intake efficiency, which is what the LS1 guys are using as thier bandaid. In a force fed app its not an issue. If this is being touted as a turbo cam then there could be more too it though, like some strange ramping scheme, otherwise from the specs provided it doesn't look like a turbo cam to me, but again without the whole picture there is not enough data.

Several, last I checked Jason Cromer is $187, however that is for a 95+ opti not the older version which is often $300, not worth it - upgrade! I have heard of people paying $900 for dealerships to swap them though, unbelievable.

I have flashed my LT1 well over 100 times, I almost screwed up twice, but PCM is still in tact. It can be repaired BTW via a couple methods, although of course I never wanted to be stuck. Yep, to read or write takes 3 minutes, instead of real time editing which would be awesome, but I refused to pay for it and I didn't need it. I will splurge on one or two things to help make my life easier sometimes, and a different computer setup would have been nice, but too costly for no real gains other than faster lazier tuning. As for the 95 Optispark setup, I think its damn near bulletproof, I refuse to pay $700 or so for these aftermarket Opti-fixes. At least a few though have taken the Opti guts and put them in traditional distributors on the back of the intake, but I dont want that either. Look at how many race cars have run thier distritubors on the end of the cam, the issue with the early opti is mostly being under the water pump and having really crappy sealing and litterally none on the end of the cam. 95 fixed it near bulletproof IMO, I also pulled mine open a bit to put silicone around the seal for further insurance.

Your thinking its from another year right? Mine is from an 82 automatic, so I can't help you there.

I've got a schematic, but other than a dropping resistor shows no fuse box. There is labeling for ground connections, EFI relay (I have the bright green one on the same harness as the FI connections), and shows 2 connectors going to the "main harness." Then is listed a "control unit" which I believe is part of the good chunk I took out, which has a brown/blue/green/clear set of connectors that I removed. Big flat clipping station basically with room for one or two more in the pass footwell that were not hooked up, so it mostly looked like it was wiring to the rear of the car. I am guessing at this point I need to track down these "to main harness" clips and see where they go to, there are two of them along with one 2-wire "to fusible link." The ECU/injector stuff is all on the same grouping of wires.

The issue is, MOST of the relays and fuse box are on the passenger side of things. I will do what I can today but I do hope to finish it, once someone can post how to do the relay thing then I think I should be "home free." That cuts off a good chunk of time I think from my ETA on the project, just because there is abour 3x the amount of wiring on the pass side, huge pile.

Z please educate me Here is where I am at, ripped the harness appart, trimmed some BS stuff that wasn't needed, and I discovered that the engine harness with FI clips etc is detatched from the rest of the harness? It is very small now, plugs into computer, couple sensors, and injectors thats it about. The rest of the harness which goes to some relay boxes, do I need that? That is on the pass side of the 280ZXT (off the car of course), that is what I'm wondering, ok how does this get power and/or splice into other side of the harness. I tracked down what I did and see that I didn't cut it, and dont believe I detatched it but... not sure. Either way "all" the wiring is either in a trash or keep pile so I still have everything. The L28ET is already physically in (in my gallery), driveline is hooked up. I will use the drain as the feed good idea, very bottom of the tank, I have 3/8" line for that ready to roll. Until I can fix the tank issue I will make sure to fill up every 2 days or so, I'll never see below 1/2 tank.

If you use Engine Analyzer they will calculate the piston velocity for you I was always getting warnings with my 7k RPM LT1 setup on stock pistons, but even at somewhat extended duty I did ok (not open road though, that would push it alot harder). If you are going to open it up though I'd convert to full floater wrist pins, for peace of mind maybe more than real need, if your going to rev it though its a good idea I think.

Why less exaust duration? It should be alot closer to a single pattern cam, unless they are just using a more aggressive ramp on the exaust side but by 10º would be very unusual. Sticking to a tight LSA usually keeps the turbo spinning, so I'd stick with that. You will also often times see a single pattern, with just less lift on the intake side. I'm guessing that .050 this is a 220 or 225 cam? If so that is about the most I'd go with, a 230 would take away the bottom end to the point that I'd feel like I was in an NA car on the low end, and alot of the reason I went turbo was for retention of the low RPM.

Thats what Tunercat is for, I only payed $89 plus my $65 cable.