Mudge

Well SOB, I thought the # of splines were different between the two! Actually there is no splined shaft in these pictures to compare . Is it just me, or do all of these look the same length, when one side is supposed to be longer than the other on the R200?

There is no way to have 7 or 8" of backspace, on a 7" wheel.

Yep!

What is thier offset then? A few mm obviously isn't much.

I ran 11.4:1 on pump gas, and have heard of higher, even here in Crapifornia.

A dual boost controller would be nice, too pricey for me though

Right, I checked the road race section for the same wheels. I'm thinking 16x9.5" for about $860

It'll take me awhile too, so many upgrades, so broke!

Randy, I thought the turbo cars got a 240mm flywheel just like the 2+2 cars?

Rice is the anti thesis of performance, the idiot, the person everyone likes to point and laugh at, or just plain ignore. This person while pretty good at doing the drifting, doesn't belong on a road course if they dont know what they are doing. They were obviously a danger to themselves and others. Stick them on a dirt track and I'm sure they'd be right at home. Someone got upset with me before on another board by using the now generic term, RICE to refer to these idiots, so if you prefer dumbass that will work too.

ACT carbon fiber or ? I only knew them as a carbon fiber driveshaft maker, 400# is the most I'd ever see and I wont be dropping the clutch hardly ever either, sounds great, price?

Premature gear wear, lame performance, and non-LSD characteristics in cornering despite advertisement. Corner-carvers.com msg board, and an email list I'm on were my primary research areas, as well as some Google searching. There are several very experienced road racers on an email list I'm on and likewise, a welded rear or 'fake LSD' I was told to stay far away from. For a one time investment, despite being a bit pricey, its worth it for ME, maybe not for everyone. The Quaife is also supposed to have much better bias for a road race app than the clutch pack units.

Smooth and raspy? heh Myths of the stroker buildup revealed http://www.zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm

Yeah he looked slow, but like the 911 letting the ricer buy, heck I'd let him by too! If anything the Lotus was a bit close to the Evo and I would have given him more space to avoid getting hit by rice boy/girl.

No biggy, after removing the key end I put the assembled lock back, and I get a clink from the starter but no crank. I tried for awhile, so it could be that either the key wont go far enough, or its going too far, my explanation of which part is broken is probably not great. Its the rounded part right around the key itself when it goes in, so with this broken and spread apart, when you turn under force it could be blocking some travel, not sure. I pulled the lock setup back apart, took the back part off so I can use a screwdriver and just startup like that, and for now I will remove that peice before I leave the car, although if someone knew where to look they could still jump off my wires obviously. Maybe a hidden pushbutton somewhere? Hmm I also have an 82 ZXT car, but I am not guessing the ignition setup is the same, but maybe the tumbler could be used, guess I'll find out eventually.

Centerforce is named Centerfarce in some other lands, seems they dont get things right the first time, or at least not in some cases. What about having a stock clutch resurfaced? I think we need to have some powerlevels in mind here. I dont know how great the stock clutch is on this car, but almost doubling the HP levels on my heavy domestic worked fine with a stock replacement clutch, no slip on the dyno or anywhere thereafter that I know of. So what kind of headroom are we looking at here? A super radical clutch, kevlar or carbon fiber plated I should hope are only for those pushing maybe 400 RW or thereabouts. I have the added advantage of not drag racing, although I will probably be out there now and again

The first design of the Circle Wheels shown isn't going to be street-pretty, they are for race, so maybe or maybe not what your after. For me anything strong, relatively light, if they can be had for a good deal less than some other brand but still have the reputation and above prerequisites, then I'm there! The second wheel style they have looks maybe nicer, but is another $300 for a set of four, for 16x10" vs 16x9.5", plus your going to have to run a flair at that point, which means more money. http://www.circlekarting.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CR&Product_Code=41510550 15x10" Code: 41510550 Price: $91.65 Shipping Weight: 21.50 pounds Cheaper, plenty heavier of course but eh, if you were on a super tight budget...

Thats one thing the Cobra had going for it, it was like driving any other car, with leather and a little HP. I had a vert FWIW, and it was a great car to own overall. Making a Z as comfortable, I dont think a 240Z would match, I dont think its possible without giving up some spring rate, I actually find the stock springs cut 1.5 coils, and 2+2 rears (thats my current redneck setup), to be pretty decent. I do want stiffer, but a light car will not be comfy like a big car (think Caddy), the heavy car will soak up bumps more comfortably in part to its sprung to unsprung weight ratio, which is going to be hurting on a small car, as well as just sheer mass in favor of the larger car, not being upset by a bump in the same fashion.

You can throw any FI head on without head work. If you were going NA as I mistakenly thought, then you'd have no choice but to go with a big head/cam setup. One of the great things about turbo is you do not need a monster cam, you do not need to kiss your low end, or your gas mileage goodbye. Now for raising the powerband to 6,000 or so, then sure I'd love to go with a cam too, but thats going to run you another few hundred duckets. A cube meaning a cubic inch...

Oh mah gosh http://www.circlekarting.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CR&Product_Code=82670 You can enter in your offset, and bolt pattern needed! I must obtain these wheelz Both 82695 and 85610 look good.

The only 60s wheels I find so far are 5 lug, which makes me think it was 4-6 banger Mustangs that got the 4 lug setup. http://www.wheelreplicas.com/cobrar4lug.htm 4.25" strikes again Another thought, is to have a machine shop work the wheels for a 4.5" bolt pattern, but then there is still the spacer issue, so why bother. All in all, it looks like Centerline is the only, half-cheap alternative for modestly big wheels, or maybe convert to 4x4.25" 300ZX stuff. http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheel_deals1.htm I'm not sure if these guys will make 4 lugger custom setups, but I'm going to see what I can find out http://www.circleracing.com/html/products.html A Circle-Wheel vendor, says 4/5 lug available http://www.sdjmotorsports.com/CircleWhl.htm

I would be freaking stoked to get a 17x9" for a reasonable price, if it could be done. The list I saw from ClassicZcar.com listed only the early Stang as useable for bolt pattern, again were left with the possible spacer issue, which in racing is almost always a no-go. • Bolt Circle 4X4.25 and 5X4.5 is all I can find for modern Stang cars, now if we can find a company that is making modern style wheels for classic Stang cars then maybe we have something?

LoL 8)

The Mustang wheels that fit our cars, are I believe 67-69 or somewhere in that range, the modern 4 lug Ford wheels are not the same lug pattern, they are 4x4.25" not 4x4.5"/114.3mm Plus, with a wheel of that offset you would need a large spacer. Anything in a 9" that you find fitting, will be a very deep dish wheel.

Yep, I know that one, but this one was not like that. This is actually a replacement tumbler, from when or who I have no idea, because I found the other one in one of the back storage compartments. I tried using my trunk key before, and that doesn't work. My trunk key is actually broken, but I had copies made of both keys, the door key/ignition copy worked ok, but I actually had to shave it down some with a dremel and cutting wheel on my own, I cannot get the trunk key to work at all so I cant open my own hatch yet I haven't tried for awhile though but I can go back to the locksmith someday if I can't figure it out. Part of the hatch key is broken so making a copy, was iffy. It took enough force to get the tumbler to turn over with the screw driver that it broke outwards the center peice that holds the key, so that doesn't make me feel great, and now eventually I have to figure some kind of solution. The 3/4" end of a key looks just like a 2 sided nizzan key (or some kind of two sided key), I'm a little supprised that someone would do this with an old car, I can only assume they wanted a joy ride or maybe someone wanted to steal some worthless parts off the car, or maybe my wheels and extras. Time for wheel locks and some other stuff I guess. As for the short term, I need to fix the door(s), maybe get a club, and as for the ignition tumbler I'm not sure. Maybe a hidden ignition switch or pushbutton somewhere, other tricks like fuel cuttoff? Hmm I dont know how a switch would work exactly though, especially since the starter vs "on" is not the same key position, which means I'd have to do a continuity test/wire matchup to figure out what is being shorted to ground or to each other, in order mimick the key position, which means at least a 3 position switch with multiple connections. On the back of the tumbler are 5 leads, and there is a single red wire that is being used which looks like a ground hookup, however for some reason there is another red wire dangling not in use.