Mudge

Drain your oil, if it looks like rotten milk or milky, then yes you have a toasted head gasket. I never got white smoke out the back, I imagine it depends where you blow the headgasket (which passage its near etc).

Nissan, or Motorsport Auto have lash pads, not sure if Victoria Britsh has them. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2824/head.html You can find info on cam tower spacers at the above link.

I am freaking baffled, I setup a URL in an HTML just about a dozen differnet ways, and I get a msg "The FTP server returned extended information", however I can use IE just freaking fine? Very bizzare. I am curious and will probably play with it to find out WTF that was about, I even allowed login no matter how many users are on the FTP, made all lower case filenames, I am just lost on that one... Here is a live link RIGHT CLICK to save it, dont play it from the location http://docmudge.tripod.com/ratedZ.mov Incase you get a msg about bandwidth being exceeded, give it an hour and try again.

If you just use ftp://64.220.147.228/ratedZ/ It will ask you for user/pass which is zcar (for both), are you using IE on a MAC? When I get to work tomorow I'll make an HTML page and just update this thread, that will be simpler

Right, I knew that stuff, just didn't know what "we" had Most of the turbo/blown cars come low impedance stock, pretty hard to find high impedance stuff past 50#, and they aren't as great on the idle side for many cars. Thanks

Many of the injectors used for replacements I see talked about are low imp, are the stock injectors low or high imp?

I believe I've read of two manual boost controller failures on this board so far, one of them after only one week.

I think the typical things would be in order, bronze valve guides, new steel seats of your choice, maybe some nice new valves, yada yada. New seals/springs etc, cam if you like, in which case you need to get new rockers and lash pads. If you resurface the head for higher compression (sounds like your staying NA?), then you need to raise the cam towers and again recalculate lash pad size for proper 'wipe' pattern from the cam lobe to rocker. Rather a PITA but thats the price of OHC setups. I chickened out on an NA setup, I'm going turbo.

Its $125 for anyone that wants it, it would be a bear to ship though. I'm in 94080, you are in SoCal? If so, thats a bit of a drive, for either one of us. If you live nearby Ian, he I'm betting can find one or something at some point. I know there is a guy near LA that knows of an import yard, and he seems to be able to find Z stuff down there. If nothing pans out and you seriously want it, lemme know via email or PM.

Tried searching, but forgot it was broken. I have a spare N42 that is stock, and I wondered everyones thoughts about having it on a turbo car. I know this has been discussed at least a little, but I'd like to see the formalities and arguments all in one place and have them fully hashed out Its got "big" valves, now what about flow potential? Since it has done quite well on NA cars I assume it would be pretty good on a turbo car as well in terms of flow, but how about the exaust side as well? What about the open vs closed chamber, in a dished piston engine? Is there anything I might be missing? I will try to look at the head and think about this more in depth, but I'd like to try to find out, keep the N42 and work on it, or search for a P90 and work on that. I dont have a P90 to look at unfortunately.

Ok, sorry for the long wait, I finally have some form of an update (took awhile for my jets to come in, and me to put them in). My settings now are 60 primary idle jet, 40 secondary idle jet. I ran this for about 4 days, not long enough to really see if it made much different MPG wise but I'm sure it did, however I dont believe to a great extent. I have now in the car as of tonight, a 110 and 120 for the secondary jets (remove the top of carb to get to these). Previously I had a 145/150 setup which was in the car when I got it. With the timing I'm currently running I might be detecting a tad bit of ping in a couple areas but I'm not sure, so I may back off the timing tomorow to see if WOT is any different. I also have a 130 set of secondaries to put in, which I'm guessing might be good with the 120 for my 2.4L, in terms of lessening my current minute power loss. What is going on now, is that if I'm going towards a hill at 60, it requires a bit more work to maintain that 60 MPH compared to before, if I keep the gas pedal 'level' it seems to lose more umph than previous setup 145/150. I also notice, that giving the car gas past around 2k RPM has a bit of a hesitation effect, so I would think that currently I'm running a bit lean and/or maybe the timing can fix it, but I think I like the timing close to where it is now. I may continue to run this way for the week to see if this is the "ulitmate" MPG setup for DGVs, but again I think the 120/130 might be better for WOT. I had it in 3rd on the freeway up to about 5500 RPM and it felt pretty strong, I made a few WOT trips and it seems pretty good overall, especially past 4k, so if anything was effected most noticeably it seems to be transitioning past 2k RPM or so, this could be because I now have a soft spot or something since you are really supposed to change jets along with air tubes, emulsion tubes and yada yada yada ($$$). Simple cruising or 'normal' throttle input is pretty normal. I spent $44 on this last bach of jets, plus the other $34 or so, I'm almost to the point of having had a set of round top SUs. So for the one or two people stuck with DGVs you may consider just getting a carb setup that everyone knows how to work on/tune. With only one jet you almost can't go wrong it sounds like So, 60/40 idle jets (60 main idle), 110/120 secondaries (I'd suggest 120/130 probably?) I have a stock exaust manifold, N33 intake and N42 head, so its probably pretty close to stock as far as fuel needs go. The exaust is pretty wide open and noisy which makes listening for the engine a little tough at WOT. Hopefully I can make a "final" or near final update by the end of the week in regards to MPG. I have an 82 280ZXT turbo car which will drop in hopefully in the next 2-3 months, so this is about the end of the road for me carb wise. I made my guesses on buying jets based on surface area, which is probably not the best or most accurate way but its about all I could go on, since there seems to be NOTHING out there on the net, or in the books, on choosing DGV jet size, nor does there seem to be ready information as to when the vacuum secondaries kick in, which is also rather sucky.

If you get desperate, Rat Shack has these, I dont know the A rating though...

Very nice toys! I have always loved first gen Fbodies, I had a 69 Firebird 400 once upon a time, until I nuked the engine I think in a few months I will dump the 94 Z28 I have and try to hunt down a first gen once again, those cars have always been a #1 favorite of mine. I get week kneed when I see one. Saw a 67 Firebird last night with gear drive and a lumpy cam, not sure what engine it was but it sounded super sweet I will own one again doggonit!

Here you go guys, right click and SAVE TARGET AS http://zcar:zcar@64.220.147.228/ratedZ/ratedZ's_TurboXS_RFL_BOV.mov That doesn't seem to work, so paste the below address into your browser ftp://zcar:zcar@64.220.147.228/ratedZ/ You can save the movie from here, also available in SIT format for you MAC or Stuffit users.

5th gear for me 2000 RPM is 35 MPH, 3400 RPM is 70 MPH. Unless my tach or something is way innacurate, which I doubt (I can check with a spare tach I guess), then I have some serious gear. From the way the engine sounds it sounds about right to me RPM wise. Again with my tiny tires, I need a 3.54 I feel, I may keep the 3.90 since nobody wants it though

Me??? Of course I do!!! I am Mr. Bang F. Orthebuck! However if you MUST have a T56 it is obvious that you can make a T56 work for less than $11 grand. I have an early 5 speed and am going to look for either a T5 or late model 5 NA 5 speed, for the better OD. The late 5 speed is also a close ratio trans, the T5 is not. If I went V8 though, then I would spend the extra money to put in an LT1/T56, I know some older folks think 6 speeds are still overkill but I could make use of it. You can run some very nice rear gears with a 6 speed and still have crazy RPM on the freeway, my Camaro does something like 1700 RPM @ 80 MPH, stock rear 3.42 and a 26.1" rear tire OD.

While the site is fast, I would STRONGLY recommend saving the clip first. Right click on the video and SAVE TARGET AS. If it wont play you probably need the DivX codec ( http://www.divx.com ) I assume this because its an AVI and that is common, but I haven't finished downloading myself yet.

Search is unfortunately broken for the moment. There are about 13 pages in the Turbo forum to cover, I unfortunately haven't had time to check them all. I'm going to do the swap soon myself.

If you go with a modern fuel injected car, you should see pretty good MPG. If you go carb though, I'd say it depends on the carb setup and how wild the car is, I prefer EFI myself.

The only supercharger kit supposedly is only good for 50HP or so, and there is NO intercooler as it is the manifold also. As for a FI kit, your best bet is to get one off a 280Z, but that should in theory run you a little rich, so you may play with a fuel pressure regulator to get that in tune. I'd look into going turbo, you can intercool, and thats the closest thing to something made for these cars, since they were on the later L engines.

Yoko AVS Intermediates, nice tires

I saw a chase last night myself, on the way home from the gym after midnight, see one car blowing a light going fairly fast, and see a cop in chase a few seconds later. I figure whatever anyone has done, if your running from the cops, it must be bad.

I've never heard of drag racing Yoko slicks, but I dont know thier line fully either. The only racing tire of thiers I know off the top of my head is an A032R and that does have some "tread" pattern to it, and they are road race/AutoX tires, 60 treadwear I believe.

The T5 is not a close ratio trans in the ratios I've seen it listed. I thought about one at first, because I can get a nice Pro 5.0 shifter for it, and in a lightweight car if it will handle 300# torque or so I know I shouldn't have problems with it. A T56 is another story altogether, you have a 6th gear and I know 5th and 6th are strong enough in a Z car to handle some power. Then there is the boost thing too, as mentioned. I know there are folks running 3.70-3.90s with turbo cars but I haven't had the pleasure to experience that first hand. Planning on 205/50 15" since I can't 215s for my 15x7" wheel, that puts me in 5th gear 122 MPH @ 6,000 RPM, that wont cut it. I already dont like the idea of 5th gear since its supposedly weak in this early 5 speed. With a 3.54 I can do 134 top in 5th. This is more acceptable but still a bit short, probably great at Thunderhill but if I get the chance to hit Buttonwillow, it wont cut it I'll be redlined everywhere. Until I can drop a meelion dollars on big butt wheels/tires, I need to have something that isn't going to redline me at such a low MPH. So, with a later trans this will definately help, and I wont feel so guilty about putting it in 5th.