Mudge

John, thats good info to know, and makes me feel good since I'll be stuck with the L for some time I'm sure I still think though, something like Vettetek is building up, would be a serious Spank-Meister

Good info, that helps clear it up. Since I'm not an engine builder, you got me with my pants down

Wow, thats a big head, with 2 turbos, I'll bring some "Depends"

To each his own, what a d!ck though.

Awesome, if you have a problem getting a hoster, lemme know

If your yanking it out you may as well due it, but yes you can use the old stuff if its still ok.

You need the axles too, and the front member also is stronger but the old one works I am told. The driveshaft also should be changed, basically your throwing away the whole old assembly, so anything you can think of attached to the R180 pretty much goes bye bye.

Not much difference in profile or OD, so its really up to you. Look at RPM per mile, a 45 will last a little longer due to less revolutions per mile, but they are not all that different from each other. I would go for 40 myself, but really its not a huge difference.

I've got the Zip files if you'd like them, which has the JPGs of the article in question.

Dont make eBay out to be such an evil being, it isn't that bad, you have to pay eBay some of your scratch but overall you will probably be payed more buy a bidder on eBay than a knowlegable person on a board which is a true "Z nerd."

IIRC the new moustache bar sits further back, which would be putting your driveshaft in a bad way, if I'm correct anyway.

LoL, we need that on video

It isn't going to get much cheaper if any at all dude, I was already supprised at MSA's price of I think $59 or $69, what other car has brake lines in steel that cost that, thats rubber line prices for many other cars. Too bad the rest of thier stuff is $$$

There was an engine on eBay that nobody bid on, starting at $199, although it was not a complete engine, much less drivetrain.

Absolutely, your experiences are welcome, things like these are so rare its hard to guess any kind of pricing or find anyone with experience with such a peice. If you took offense to "pimp value" I appologize, the way the word is used has changed through the years, and in England when you "smoke a fag", I can only imagine the difference with "pimp value" aka "bling bling".

From a CamaroZ28.com post.

Wow, that would be a rockin commuter, provided good weather

275 RWHP would be no joke in a little 240Z. I didn't know a 3.3L stroker existed, although I have read about custom cranks that were/are(?) available for big $. Whenever I get some head flow data I'll post it, and of course try to pursue as much as I can get on a reasonable budget.

ECU should retard spark with lower octane fuel if knock is present, however reaction time is another thing altogether. Usually knock retard is also more than is needed, because once it starts, it can get bad fast, so any knock is not good for power or the engine. Detonation is not really extra heat, heat = power in the internal combustion engine, detonation is firing at the wrong time, due to a spark plug or sharp area or exaust valve holding too much heat and pre-igniting/deiseling the mixture. If you fire prematurely, the piston could have enough upwards travel left in the compression stroke that you end up fighting the piston face/ringlands, and can blow something up. This can force extra compression to a point, but again if its happening before you want it too you are basically sending two fast moving objects on a collision course and something is going to break.

Eesh, that sucks. I may know someone that'll have them if Comp isn't making them currently (production runs have varying times). Anyway, these are called anti-pump up lifters, so for $10-$20 more than regular lifters, I figure it was worth it for me Hope you can get em.

Ok, so with one less active coil the rear springs are sliiiiiiiiiightly stiffer. Spring diameter that you posted is wire diameter, the spring median is also used to calculate rate, which is the OD of the spring assembly minus the wire diameter, which gives you center of wire to center of wire, make sense?

The "other" spring thread: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001928 Calculate your spring rates: http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/coilsprate.html

I think he was just really nervous.

Calling COMP CAMS directly, http://www.thunderracing.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=subcategory&subcategoryid=1107#T1563 or www.racenet.net Some people have bad experiences with Racenet (folded headgaskets to save space, wrong locators sent, I've heard alot), so I'd not use them, call Comp if Thunder is back ordered.

More coils = lower spring rate, IF the same spring diameter, removing coils makes the spring have a higher rate. When I looked at stock specs of the springs in the Haynes, the rear springs have a thicker wire diameter, and I think maybe an inch longer but I've already forgotten, these are recent posts if you look at the other spring thread. Maybe even possible someone played with your springs before you bought the car, hmm.