Mudge

Those are some meats for sure. If it never hooked up and just straight snapped, sounds like it was waiting to go. Maybe chryo is the way to go, but I really dunno. While a C4 rear may cost more, I would bet you'd have a tough time breaking one. Problem is the gear ratios they come with you may not like, and gear replacements are $.

I'm using ready to go brake lines, minus the bends of course. I am litterally breaking myself getting these things off, the ones I can twist off up close near the caliper area are not so bad, the passenger side line is of course the first PITA one to get too, since its at the firewall. I'm 6'2" 232, and I carried my F54 shortblock up 4 flights of stairs to my apartment, so its not a strenght issue. These things are frozen SOLID. I have a 10mm brake wrench (whatever its called), that just spins, no damage to the wrench at all. It is very hard to get a set of locking pliers on the thing, even with fuel lines out of the way, and still I cannot get enough purchase on there to do anything but spin spin spin, and still that sucker is not moving. I have been soaking it now for 2 days, probably near 20 applications just today, of penetrating oil. My dad said the same thing, if its like that replace them all. I should have expected it, if I knew more about brake lines, on old cars, oops. I am/was still hoping to swap the rear before this saturday, which of course means I'm going to have a heck of a time there, if not worse, which could be trouble schedule wise, ouch What a bear of a job this is. I mentioned to Len the brake line wierdness, with no thread on about 1/8" of the 'nut' that goes into the lines, this time I found one that was threaded the whole way through, should have looked better last time but didn't know to expect that.

Another couple I ran into: http://www.nas.nasa.gov/About/Education/Racecar/aerodynamics.html http://www.corner-carvers.com/

7 years isn't toooooooo bad, they do not last like regular manifolds. Get your new one ceramic coated, and that should keep it lasting a good long while.

Someone posted a vid clip of a cammed L6 with tripples, and at low RPM it sounded like an 8 indeed, although at higher RPM with the semi-coffee can on the back, not my flavor

Make sure you change the oil, if you dont run it 3k miles before 4-6 months are up your supposed to change it (condensation can create water in the oil, mucho bad). If you dont get to run the tank dry, and refill it (fill it up all the way so the tank doesn't rust out), you may want to put some ____ in your gas to stretch out its life span, I can't remember the name offhand Basically it helps keep the gas from turning into varnish, just a couple bucks, any auto store will know what your talking about if its not a 16 year old geek behind the desk

One thing that is kinda interesting is that GM is using smaller lobes, but bigger rockers with the LS engines. I wasn't sure if this was a lifter float thing, or a way to reduce spring pressures since the lobe was less aggressive, or what. Anyone?

Thats kind of what I thought, usually they are 224/230, 230/236, 236/242 etc, but they should be labled XE I believe (at least for rollers). Power falls off VERY quickly if you over-rev them, so plan on sticking within the powerband that shows up on the dyno. There is argument as to how hard they may be on springs/lifters for that little bit of bottom end improvement, so keep that in mind as well.

I wont be feeding 1400cc for awhile, I'm still using the 2.4L engine F54 is awaiting a rebuild in a couple months. The settings in the Haynes match those on the page below: http://www.efn.org/~msayer/weboem.html 2.5-3.0 PSI is what these Webers like supposedly, Haynes and other sources say the same. I'm going to order about 3 different sets of main/secondary jets, since I'm running pretty darn rich with only a 2.4L setup. I am not sure how linear the changes are since I probably wont play with the emulsion/air stuff for awhile and just change the fuel jets. If I dont go FI sometime in the future then I imagine I will have to learn more to get the most out of the setup in terms of linearity and not having soft spots, since changing only one thing, and by such a drastic amount can screw up the balance of the carb. The Haynes also lists DGAV stuff and they look pretty darn similar (no supprise), in terms of jetting/tubes used. However it looks like the DGAV was mostly used on larger cars, 2 liter, and still only a single carb. I find this for a Cortina (Toyota), and it wasn't just the fuel jets of course that were changed, since again the linearity of the carb would be hurt without changing everything that has anything to do with fuel metering. I will probably gain a massive improvement just playing with fuel jets for now, but since I have to wait a couple days to order probably anyway I may figure something else out better. Not sure if any places are going to be open tomorow.

Small update, while the drivers side brake line was kind of a goofup, the pass side definately will not come off without tearing everything up. I am using a set of vice grips on the small side, and a 19mm on the brake hose, and it just wont budge, after several apps/waiting periods with penetrating oil. This side will be even worse since it reaches all the way across the engine compartment, this makes me fear that the rear lines may go out too. Moreover, part of the nut on the replacement lines that thread into the "soft lines" (braided steel in my case) has about a whole 1/8th inch where there is NO thread at all, and will thusly NOT thread into the freaking brake lines. So I had to spend some time with a cutting wheel to cut off this unthreaded portion, without damaging the line of course, so that I could even use the fargin things. The replacement line turns out to be a 3/16"

When I bought my 73 the booster was dead, it was unhooked because it caused a vacuum leak if hooked up, since it was dead. This will show up as lack of power in certain areas and some MPG loss. Your booster is probably dead, I got one off eBay but you still may be able to buy the internal diaphragm which is probably whats dead, but I'm not sure whats serviceable and whats not anymore, since other than MSA/VB there isn't much left support wise.

Thanks Len

Well, doing a spring swap and steel brake line swap at the same time. The stock lines were so frozen in place, I ended up twisting the HARD LINE right off at one end, on the drivers side As you can expect this is pretty freaking crappy, its not a daily driver at least but I'm trying to have it ready by this next saturday for a bit of left and right turn fun. Anyone know the fitting sizes I will need? Brake line ID or OD? I've never swapped hard line in my life so this is going to be fun argh

Wow, I didn't even know a 6 barrel existed. Meanwhile, back at the Bat Cave, I just twisted off one of my brake lines

I am a little closed minded and set in my own ways, but its pretty clear he likes one thing and one thing only, from his handle on the board down to his mouth.

One of the two books I got from Amazon is the Haynes TECHBOOK Weber Carburetor Manual There are many DGAV listings for OEM setups, but only ONE DGV listings and it is a Capri 1600cc engine. There is listed a 32/36 DGV 5A/05A and DGAV 8A/08A, the jets are the nearly identical. So with a generic estimate we are looking at 30-35% too much fuel. There is also a Weber jetting conversion chart, guess what, no DGV listings, almost all sidedrafts. The 2 liter Capri is all DFAV/DGAV listings. http://www.theape.com/jets.html

Check this out: http://www.efn.org/~msayer/weboem.html Where is my prize My prize is hopefully figuring out some rejetting! Hopefully I can get it done this week with something better than 15-17 MPG.

Shorter, stiffer sidewalls are NOT going to help straightline traction either. For cornering though, 9.5" sounds very nice

A Vette IRS will always be stronger in every respect, and they are lighter to boot.

I had the settings scribbled somewhere but dont see them right now... What I do have though, is the jets for the 32/36 DGAV which I think will be the same, other than the automatic choke. Primary/secondary idle jet .50mm/.50mm Primary/secondary main jet 1.40mm/1.40mm Primary/secondary emulsion tube F50/F50 Primary/secondary air corrector 1.70mm/1.60mm I will try to find my other sheet.

Ok, roller lifters are mo betta I wasn't sure if you had the machine work for it, or had a modern SBC or what. I'm going to make a guess at 470 HP or better, if tuned right.

A 50 HP jump sounds like wishfull thinking, 355 vs 383. This will be a hydraulic flat tappet? I ran a similar cam, but in an FI, hyd roller, LT1 with better heads and made 411 RW with an ignition miss, was banking on 490+ at the crank. I would say your in the right neighborhood, but I will admit I'm weak on RPM range info with flat tappet stuff. If you have the money for the bottom end work though, I might work on the heads a bit more, but it depends how picky you are I guess. I felt like it was more important to have the top end than the bottom, although the torque advantage would be in your favor.

Some people just have no concept of a "sports car", or a brain either

Crap, thats sort of what I feared, but I thought it would be more difficult getting 2 carbs then. Thanks for that valuable clarification. Now I have something to go on, because honestly the books aren't helping me a ton.

I wish I read this thread more carefully, I just bought regular old R200 stub axles and now I can't use them I was soooooo hoping to have this ready by the 25th but it looks like I wont be ready for awhile, darnit. I have an R200 LSD that I'm trying to complete, if anyone has a line on whatever stub axles I need to finish this that would be great Can someone clear up which ones can be used with or without adapters? So far I see 280ZX listed above, but thought I heard 300ZX/ZXT also? There is a circlip inside the LSD unit I have in the splined area, if that helps.