Mudge

http://www.theape.com/jets.html Lean best idle procedure: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

Well, not sure if its a control issue or what, but nobody really seems to give good feedback? I dont doubt that its been handed down for awhile , but likewise I never really considered it because of nobody really suggesting it. $500 for an LSD unit is not that bad, but $1200-$1500 for a Quaiffe tells me go C4 IRS.

L24 E31/E88 248/248 -109 LSA L26 E88 256/256 -109 L28/L28e 248/248 -109 (N42/N47/P79) L28e (P79) 240/248 -109 L28et (P90) 240/248 -109 L28et (P90) 240/240 -110 L28et (P90a) 240/240 -109 L24e (N47) 240/240 -106 I have a TXT document (can't attach here ) that shows the cam marks, and lift numbers etc also for the above stuff, I think lift numbers are in mm.

Any road racers want to chime in here? Trans Am series racers use a locker (or at least the Jag team does), but I always thought this was a drag thing. As much as I love suspension I know more about engine junk thanks to my addiction to horsepower (doh). If I dont go through with an R200 of some sort then the C4 IRS seems like the way to go, but I am still not sure what to do here.

Yep, you'll need everything from the year of the block MFG to certify it, you cannot backdate (aka cheat).

This is probably something for salt flat racers, I do know that they often run a single 4-5" exaust, probably mainly for aero, but if they are building it like the above...

The Trans Am has always been heavy unfortunately. Since they are about 335 at the crank minimum, yeah I'd say 400 HP is no problem, many of these cars pull 305 RWHP stock. The LS1s are definately under-rated, especially those with the newer intake manifold.

Actually, the idle circuit is the PRIMARY circuit, meaning all low RPM stuff. There are two parts to the idle circuit (if not more depending how you want to look at it). Anywho, not what I expected but when he explained it it all made sense. So far the MPG looks good but I haven't been driving much, been working all day long just about the last two days working on the suspension, tomorow at 5AM I get to wake up for Sears Point (5.5 hours from now). I had to do the rear springs twice, because the stockers I put on there must have been front springs, they were WAY soft, so I put back what was on there in the first place. At least I didn't have to remove the brake lines the second time around. I didn't follow the instructions either, they want you to remove a bunch of stuff, I just pushed hard on the spring seat and pushed the sucker in. Anywho, my carb was "stock" in terms of the Ford yes, OTHER than I had 50/50 idle jetting not 55/50. I was out over 2.5 turns to get it to idle ok. Remember that this idle circuit apperantly affects the rest of your under 3k or whatever (secondaries are vacuum), and if open excessively it will throw tons of gas into the car since its open more than it should be, vacuum sucks more of it in than needed. I'm very tired, so hopefully whatever I said above makes sense. So, if you have the Weber downdrafts and you are getting crap gas mileage, follow the instructions for BEST LEAN IDLE, its in the Weber books and online also. If you are way past the recommended number of turns, then you are in the same boat I was in and you need to RICHEN at least the jet on the idle richness screw side, the other side is not so important for solving the issue.

www.fastassdatsun.com http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAUTOMATICS SUCK ON ANY CAR Look in the classifieds, imports and domestics "reverse doesn't work, first doesn't work, trans rebuilt, trans needs rebuild", automatics suck for reliability. They slip all day long except for rare lockup at cruise. Treat your stick right and all you have to do is chande fluid and a clutch once in awhile, automatics need replacement or rebuilding. Junk IMO My woman has an early Nova with a big block and a 4 speed, and a 92 911 with a 5 speed, no slush boxes in my house! Further, I never ever pay anyone to work on my car, $200 in parts and $500 in labor? Nooooooooooo thank you. When its not thier own car often they dont care about it, and will break other things in the process, strip threads, take shortcuts, not my kind of gig.

The way this was explained to me, by those in the Camaro Mustang Challenge series, its is very difficult to drive the Mustang at its limits. Largely these are fox bodied cars, not the newer SN95+ (mostly, but there are some), so its not so much that the car can't be driven fast its that its more difficult and feedback is not as nice. From my own experience, once again I feel that the Mustang is not a handling platform, it was made to appeal to the public which it did quite well. We know now that it beat out the Camaro in sales about 3:1 until the FBody finally went dead. A Mustang is a slightly aggressively styled Ford Escort with more power, Fords headlight/tail light scheme seems the same on every single car they make, making it almost appear as if every car is the same with just a little bit of a makeover, a wierd nitpick but I always felt that it was lazy of them to put out cars like that. I am not flaming Ford stuff, I am giving my own opinion from experience with both cars. http://www.camaromustangchallenge.com I know a few people in the series and thought about doing it myself, when I ran into the Z though, I have a hard time finding desire to be in a 3000-3400 pound car again LoL Of course I also like cubes, I am an NA guy, as tempting as turbo/blowers are they bring issues with them, most especially in a road raced car which is what I love to do. This means that I am pretty much best off with an NA setup, and cubes is mo-betta for that purpose, hence give me a 350 (346) instead of the go-kart engine. For a daily driver, the Mustang will be more accomidating comfort wise. I still perceive the Mustang to be a womans car, for the reasons above. The Mustang sits high, has a seemingly short wheelbase, which might be great on a very tight course in the right hands. I am still shocked at how heavy the Cobra got though. The Camaro has better aero, its lower, more cubes, and I still fully believe it is a better car for a road car. Again if you want comfort, the Mustang does a better job, it was great to drive all day long, the Camaro doesn't do that as well. I have to bend over to get in the Z or Z28, the Mustang again is like a regular old car with a little more grunt and braking. I'm rambling, so I'll stop

Ian, I'd be curious to find out what you discover

2+2 is stiffer yep, I think the fronts are 30% stiffer so the rear must be about the same?

With the shape of the car, sticking a drivetrain in the rear would probably put you 40/60 if not 35/65, great for an F1 car but a street car? Would be an interesting engineering issue. Its also going to be so close to you, I'd suggesting wearing a firesuit everywhere you go. I guess you wouldn't have to visit the suana to sweat off a few pounds though.

Yes of course, but a wideband is not compatible with a narrow band setup. Voltage input/output and pinout is not the same. Wideband has a range of approximately 10.0-20.0:1, basically anything you could want. Narrow bands as said, were created to ONLY work within stoich, supposedly this also includes 14.6:1, but they are made to be higly sensative in that very small range, which is why they titter back and forth between minutely lean/rich.

Oh well, I dont know the 2001 difference, but I will disagree from my own experience with the 97, a good car in many ways but a handling demon it was not.

Ok folks, I know some of you are running big nasty wheel/tire setups. What are your handling Gs either continuous or instant, and what is your setup that helped you arrive there?

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=11&PHPSESSID=3d069acd656a556b985263cdfb956c58 Spacers can be found there.

Hmm, maybe the 6 is only an option, I thought they all were 6s other than the auto.

I am an LS1 fan, and I LOVE having a 6 speed. I'd go for a Camaro Z28 if I were in your shoes, OR frankly I might buy some other car and hop it up too The LS1s can turn nasty power with milder cams than the LT1 can. Comparison, I made 411 RW with an ignition miss costing me 15-20 RWHP(???), and with a small 222/230º and a decent set of heads an LS1 will turn 420-425 RWHP! That is an EASY daily driver cam right there. There are others pushing around 470 RWHP, still with hydraulic rollers, with good heads. I know a guy who does pro shop work and some stuff on the side, and gets these kind of numbers out of street cars, no BS the LS1 is a hot cookie. Unfortunately too expensive for me. I also do not like the massive weight of the Mustang, and it looks like a smaller car?!?! I imagine the non DOHC stuff is about 200 pounds lighter, but a 3700 pound Cobra was a serious shock, that is an Impala right there, too heavy for my liking. The LS1s are maybe 3350/3400, still heavy by 3050-3200 pound Vette standards, but man can they go. Plus the LS1s sound sorta like Mustangs anyway, same firing order Chevy finally did something right this time, and then they went and killed the Fbod, well slowly since they never really pushed it/advertised it. Or, imagine the 240Zs you could stack up, with a nice built up engine, hmmm. Although, nothing quite like a 'new' car, and the Z28 is definately roomier. If you want comfort though, go Mustang. I like the Z28 but the Mustang is like driving a regular old car with a little more oomph. Its a winner in the Grandma can drive it too category. I am biased in that nothing curdles my blood like a big, McNasty cammed V8

Well, so far it looks ill recieved.

Ian! Hey dude... BTW, pretty embarrasing but he never said it was an LSD, I have a VERY good memory but somehow I confused one post with another. Once in awhile I supprise myself with my powers of the mystical jackass I spent today chasing down carb issues, hopefully I am grasping another peice of the puzzle... With the cost of LSD units I may consider a C4 rear in the future, dunno Thanks again Ian for all your knowlege.

Generally, a coolant temp sensor needs to have at least about 10% or so coolant in the 'coolant.' I like to run distilled water not tap water, as tap water can leave behind deposits. Anyhow, alot of the coolant temp sensors need to have conductivity in the coolant, for this to be there often needs to be some coolant, otherwise it will show a coolant light on my newer car (is this a light that you are talking about?). Sometimes though they do just go bad, if its showing temperature though...

Reggie Jackson has had over 140 at one time, specialty, muscle cars, exotics, you name it.

Since they are not deep dish I am guessing they are front wheel drive, and this person only lists the cars because of the LUG pattern matching. But, ask them, I could be wrong