Mudge

Its worth what someone will pay for it and flow numbers will help determine that. I know of people that payed $2400 for heads versus about $1500 for other shops, yet get worse flow numbers. Reputation often drives the price of work, not always results, so the value of something varies greatly on the buyer, and thier own knowlege somewhat as well.

The 350Z is supposed to be a 6 speed, or there is a 5 speed automatic option.

Ok, not sure on gas mileage yet but here is my story. After talking to the tech guy at Pierce Manifolds for awhile, he actually determined that I was lean at idle. I didn't understand this at all until finally meeting with him and him showing me how it works. My idle screw had to be at least about 2.5 turns out in order to get the car to idle when warm, without the choke, so he said 3/4-1 turn only. I thought I had seen that 2 turns was ok somewhere but that may be another carb, or misinformation. Anyhow, so I bought several jets for the idle screw side and the other side. The one near the idle screw he said is the most important, sometimes going beefy here will also get rid of or help transition from normal driving to WOT. I found that I had 50 on both sides, unlike the 55/50 listed for the Euro-Ford setup, but everything else was spot on. Anyhow, I started with a 65/60, 65 being at the idle screw spot. This helped but I was still barely idling with 1.5 turns out. Made sure the car was warmed up by driving around a bit. Went back after that to pickup a set of larger jets, this time 75/70. I only put the 75s in and had the idle screw out 1 turn to see if it would work. Was not very cooperative, so I turned it out another half turn to 1.5 turns and it idles fine without the choke. Maybe if I try backing the idle down it will help stabalize with less turns out, I dont know yet. So basically what happens is, thanks to his explanation, when you have to overcompensate with the idle screw to get the car to idle steadily, this will work for low velocity/vacuum which is your idle situation. When you are off idle however, more velocity and vacuum will run you RICH, this explains the 15 MPG I was seeing. I was overcompensating for a lean idle and screwing up the rest of the circuit. Driving back from Morgan Hill was about 70 miles, and the tank looks good for now but I wont know for sure about the MPG for a day or two. Once I can figure out some more stuff I will probably order more jets and maybe other parts, but this is the basic situation, check how many turns out you are. I really didn't know it was that important, and that is where talking to someone in person who knows what they are doing, really helps. Oh, I also noticed that I didn't smell the gas fumes like I did before, so I rolled down my windows more to kind of make sure, and there is nary but a hint of fumes! The guy I spoke to was Doug, young guy but knows his stuff and was very helpfull. Thanks again Doug! Customer service was top notch as well as Doug's help, I dont know the gals name that was there but they definately run an A+ organization. (so at current I'm running 75/60 not 75/70, I may put in the others later today).

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6655

Cage it, go for subframes eventually. If you think the body itself, that would be VERY unwise. Even 1960s American cars have a big problem with cracks in the body and twisted bodies, first gen Camaros etc. They were not built to handle big power. I'm a believer in cages for many reasons, power not being the only one. Remember these are unibody cars, not even a solid frame.

Open chamber = smog era heads, closed chamber = muscle car heads, as a generic way to categorize them.

Well, pulled the fronts a few days ago (haven't done rear yet), and the springs are 11.5" FULL LENGTH, and still the stock # of coils. So, definite torch job. I have stockers on with 1.5 coils cut right now, definately sits a bit higher, and unloaded length was ALOT more than the ones that came off the car. Mine sit about 13" unloaded (fronts), versus the 11.5" jobbers. Later, coil-overs

Since it says REDLINE WEBER it tells me it was setup for a converted car, but that sure is alot of fuel for such a car, which is wierd.

Ok, got home, worked as fast as I could without breaking things, and it looks like I wont get help today. I did however verify, that I indeed have stock settings in this carb, which means 3.2L worth of fuel on a 2.4L engine, no wonder 15-16 MPG is the best I can nail down. I also have a Redline Weber tag, and its got a CARB EO on it, if any of you have the same? CARBURETOR REDLINE-WEBER 32/36DGV5A K8688 CARB E.O. NO. D133-3

I know Swain does valves, and at that I've heard excellent things about them, but never used any internal coated stuff, tempting though but not really needed for my low end setups

Mitch is probably right, at colder temps cars run rich until warmed up, and then often at very HOT temps they will run rich again and timing should be retarded (if the computer is that complex on your early car). If you continue to run rich your O2 will also get whacked eventually

Turbo would be great, as a road car though I'd have to battle heat, so eventually I am PROBABLY sticking with a completely NA F54/N42 setup, I'll miss some TQ and HP, but heat wont be as much an issue. Ok, I have found some places that DO sell a conversion kit for 32/36 on the Z, but figured if you dont buy the setup they probably wont tell you the jettings. I am going to get some help from a Pierce Manifolds guy (Morgan Hill), who does sell the conversion setup. So, I'll tear open my carb and write down everything thats in there to figure out about how far off I am. I will found out either later today, or will post results tomorow. They dont exactly have a store front but I can pickup items at the front desk/willcall, or of course you can order online. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm

I dont know those cars that well but the Del Sol was considered a ruination of the CRX, in other words, received poorly unless your a woman who doesn't care because its "cute".

I hate to say, but I hear this about 30-40% of every feedback post I see on them, on another board. With that in mind there are other places, Paul Berry is the one that comes to mind the most, I have heard nothing but good so far with them. Maybe Jet Hot is to commercial doing things quickly, dunno.

Yep, they look neat, but shifting must be a pain to get used to.

Bad gas and timing can create ping, or were you talking about a poor combustion chamber design? N42 is pretty commonly used so I dont see a problem with it. If you run too much timing there will be issues, just the way it goes.

IIRC on the 93 the shraeder valve is offset elsewhere, but I dont recall, basically thats where it is, on the back of the rail. LT1 injectors are rated at 43psi, so shoot for 43-45 psi or thereabouts. LS1s I think are 60-65 PSI but I forget, Ford SVO stuff is rated at 39. Using a different pressure on a 94+ car, will screw with the BLMs and that will hurt overall operation, you do not really want to use a regulator as a tuning device on these cars (it wont work), speed density is OK but not the MAF LT1s.

Yes, meaning I'm not going to go buy a tripple setup already ready to go, I would rather go EFI which yes, a donor car would do quite nicely, but I'd rather have a Megasquirt. If I'd go EFI I want to play with it, not expect an EFI system for 150 HP engine to run a 250 HP setup in the future.

Posi was a branded item, I think started in the 40s or maybe not until the 50s. However yes thats what I meant, 2 wheels being driven not one, but you said IRS versus solid axle which is not what I'm talking about, since that has nothing to do with how many wheels are being driven. That is what threw me.

Automatics are not worth all that much, so its not like a $1,000 part for $100, and the market may just not be there right now. I've had things on eBay brand new, selling for way less than they are worth, and sometimes the market is not there.

If I could even find one, it would give a baseline direction to go in, but I can't find one in the books I have. Sidedraft data is fairly plentiful and thats whats recommended on these cars, but thats not what I have, and I'm not going to spend $1400 to fix a jetting issue, I'd go EFI way before that.

Do you really think it could be better, in a handling situation?

Some people seem to think the stock brakes on the Z are crap, if you want to know what crap is put another 1200 pounds on the car, then it will be sucky, thats what you call an early 4th gen Camaro braking system, other than the vented rotors. Good pads, steel lines, should go quite nicely. I am actually impressed with the brakes so far, so "crap" is a relative term I like stiff suspensions, so to me somewhat that is a good handling car, I do not like huge amounts of body roll on a road course, it just feels disturbing. Michael Shoemaker likes stiff suspensions as well, so it must not be that bad and you just aren't going to get there without coil overs and some good struts. Good luck on the wheels, I am envious

Black smoke = pig rich.

Not important, only in terms of finding a place to put the line, the fluid still is displaced the same amount and compresses hardly at all. I didn't strip any threads, and thats what I worried about more than anything. I did that to the bleeders on my 69 Firebird calipers, those just tore right off. I just round off the actual bite surface area itself, even with vice grips, the heat is what did it. I could not tighten, nor loosen, they were definately frozen. I can squeeze a set of vice grips pretty hard I think, and I really dont think I could have done much better without the heat, and again I'd fear ripping the threads out or breaking a nut off inside the threads because that, would be a true project killer.