Mudge

LoL, I hardly watch that guys show, but you could see that guy was NERVOUS! LoL "There is no other one like this in the world....... oh f..... sh__.. oh my god"

I dunno, the 12 second car is one of his street cars, you can email him if you like I can pass on the address if its not on the page.

Compression is more effective at helping low end with big cam bleedoff than it is making top end power. The engine is a Robello buildup. I trust the local guys, I have seen many hot cars, and there are plenty of guys with lots of knowlege in the local group. One of the Robello head porters has a ~275 HP daily driver Z, who WILL give rides, if your willing to head to Concord

Look at wire diameter and number of coils to help you figure it out, if one looked beefier as you say that was probably the rear spring which is a stiffer rate than the front.

Dude, buy R lifters $200, if you want standard quality lifters you can get them for $180 or so, not much difference in price.

Alot of people like 3.90s but when on a GM car thats only available in a 12 bolt or 9". That is with a 25.7"-26.1" tire though. 3.73s are the "next best thing" usually, some like 4.10s, but it depends what your going to do with the car. If your an early Z being over a thousand pounds lighter though you can use just about anything you want

I posted this in another forum, oops. So many forums that I just goofed in placement. I have the R200, the half shafts, driveshaft, and the moustache bar, now I need the splined peices that go in the R200 itself, unless someone can tell me the R180 ones fit which I doubt.

I have the R200, the half shafts, driveshaft, and the moustache bar, now I need the splined peices that go in the R200 itself, unless someone can tell me the R180 ones fit which I doubt.

Clint, thats why I miss FI, that and the slow slow startups I have on cold mornings with my manual choke. Thats why at least one Trans Am racer is using FI, midrange and MPG benefits. Programable ignition can be had even with carbs, although its sorta costly, MSD makes one of these units which is compatible with the 6a and several other ignition box series.

From what I know while the Ripper may be the shortest throw, the Pro 5.0 is often reputed to be a better quality feel, and can be modded if the throw is not short enough for you.

For a setup that makes 3-6% more power, I would much rather spend money getting a stock head chopped up and re-welded! Coat the piston tops and valves/combustion chamber with some fancy pants ceramic coating. I'd rather spend my money on things like that before going for what is essentially "pimp" value.

Flat tappet/lifter guys swap (are supposed to) lifters when using a new cam, just like L6 guys and rockers. So old timers might wonder if they get lifters with the cam they are buying (which isn't needed nor is a break in procudure needed). R lifters are better than stock, I sure dont know pump up information on the stock lifters versus R lifters, but I got R anyway for RPM and extended duty.

Ok, the local 3.0L 287 HP L6, has a streetable cam, 10.0:1 compression, and runs stinkin SU Carbs Once again, my faith in big HP street cars is restored. (ok, sorta big) Thanks for watching

Ian, docmudge@hotmail.com is my addy, thanks!

Low end power really has nothing to do with traction of course, just driveability, and not bogging the thing down till it dies, and not requiring a 2000 RPM idle, but that depends on the cam as well If its all out race I'd go solid.

Most of us have seen it, the Z06 isn't really pushing it so its hard to judge the whole thing, but still its nice to see a Z do well

Not only less peak power, but low end wont be as nice, but again its liveable intead of 5k or so valve adjustments.

I would like to do the C4 also, I believe they took 1.5" off each side to get it to work. ScottieGNZ I think is his member name, he has a page but I think the URL link is at home.

Yes, 2+2 is stiffer.

Pinging is all going to be your timing work, the only thing is eventually the cam gets so big, or the head velocity is so poor at low RPMs that with lower octane your limited in the power you can make with your advance curve without ping. I could have made more low end power with my setup on the Camaro, but with 91 octane I was limited, so its a series of factors.

All I can get in my area is SUPPOSEDLY 92, or 100, or jet fuel (116?) but I plan to build a street car so 91/92 and maybe tolulene for track days is the plan. Now were getting somewhere, there is about maybe 10-20% that many head porters never reach unless you pay alot extra, or go with the right 'guy'. So I plan to try and get out as much as I can from my N42, minus welding probably. Dont know if I will build a custom manifold, or even eventually go FI, but for now I have dual downdrafts. Oh, I'm in NorCal but am about 2 hours from ButtonWillow and would love to hit that track someday! I think it may be doable this year.

It sounds almost as valuable as a car with no engine at all, meaning I'd start from scratch anyway if it really is setup that "poorly" and that beat up. Maybe the headers are still good but then again, with no exaust after them they are probably rusting out and not very happy.

Just a couple price points, you can get wheels widened for about $100 each (IIRC?), or custom lightweight racing wheels to YOUR specs are about $1600 for all 4 from CCW. Largest wheels possible (insert maniacal laughter here)... 17x11" sounds nice, expensive tires though. www.fastassdatsun.com For $2000-$3000 you could put big wheels/tires and new front/rear suspension on the car, and the C4 IRS is lighter, and I dont think G forces are going to break 'em either.

I dont know what car doesn't pickup negative camber when lowering it.

He said pipe though not manifold, if they were cast iron pipes it would weigh alot more