Mudge

Stock rods are fine if your staying NA, if your looking at 550+ HP then you will probably want to consider something else. Not that I'd recommend it, but there are 383s with stock rods. If the heads are still on the car measure your compression/leakdown and see how it pans out

If you feel like it, there are over 200k miles folks, and I did my heads/cam swap at 114k, and I know others in the 150k area who are just doing heads/cam. Most people seem to think that things are dead past 100k miles which is so frigging untrue, if you take care of things. "While your at it" though, sure, rings/bearings... if you feel like it.

It can be used on various cars, I'm sure they have an LT1 specific version with harness also though. Its alot less than the MSD programable setup, so thats why I wondered...

Can you check your manual to see if its a fully programable map, or is it only retard? Thanks!

If my post was unclear (not sure what you meant), the Cranes that come with the Hotcam kit are for 3/8" studs, ARP 7/16" are something like $30, and I like the extra insurance, no stud girdle though but I also would have liked one. I have also heard of needle bearings freezing on the Cranes, even though they work great for some people, but I haven't heard anything bad yet about the Comp Cams stuff, and they are rebuildable FWIW.

Dan, EGR should not affect emissions testing that much, it is for overall smog reduction... a larger than stock cam will have its own low end EGR affect in fact, although too big = poor smog-ability. Keep it there for looks, you should pass without actually using it.

Yep, best of the best is still slow as a basketball rolling down a hill, sorry I think 14 second cars are a snooze, even though my Z is a 15 second car It takes a hell of a driver though to really be competitive in an 11 second or faster car, on a road course, because the Camaro is nearly undriveable at WOT for more than several seconds for me, not enough grip (hence the lighter Z fantasy car).

Camaro not Camero I'm going to guess its Chevy/GMC Truck 5.7L 350 Exhaust Manifold (NEW):1957-1979 which isn't a whole lot less than block huggers, this is similar to the old Ramhorn Vette manifolds which I believe fit.

Idle sounds nice, although WOT with that muffler is not my favorite...

Honda already gets out enough from the engines that mods dont usually do alot for them, however, a 14 second car is still slow as piss for a dragster, which is yet another reason drag is just boring to me overall. An 11 second or lower car, that starts to get fun, but I still dont dig drag. R has been around for awhile, it just means Race or Race Ready, Viper GTS-R etc

You could always keep the 7/16" setup and sell your Crane's that come with the kit for 3/8" studs, but thats up to you obviously Stock are good 'nuf, but I got the Comp R lifters for endurance stuff + the fact that my stockers were 114k miles old.

I see people doing that on multiple sites, I dont know if some people have a real problem with spelling, or if its just more of our wonderfull education system, and I'm talking 30+ year old folks too.

There is an Integra R and a Civic R, those are the only two I know of. The Civic is about as unspectacular as they get, I dont know about the Integra, but either way they are both slow to me.

Bigger isn't always better, too big can kill low lift flow, and shroud the valves for 1/2 or even more of thier lift duration. You will need new seats for sure, I went with 2.0"/1.56" for this reason. Titanium? What for? If this is NA and less than a NASCAR RPM style setup, I wouldn't even consider it. I ran to 7k RPM and even for me titanium retainers was overkill, just something I wanted, but not neccessary. Beyond the wasting of money possibility though, metalurgically speaking I am told its brittle, and may well not be a high duty application where its going to be slamming into valve seats all day long. I do know that it works as a rod (NSX), but its not quite the same thing. Hopefully someone will have more input for you, talked to an engine builder about it? Coatings are still not a totally street thing to do, especially if your NA, but I would have liked to had coated valves, combustion chamber, and piston tops, but again thats more than is neccessary and costs money however nice it may be to have. If your just looking for light, then you could grab hollow stemmed stuff.

Stock pistons ARE Hypers, IMO yes it is an excellent NA piston, KBs have been run with a fair amount of nitrous with no problems provided you have a retard setup that keeps you from detonating. Hypers are going to be strong yet still maintain low expansion characteristics that a forged piston has issues with, when the car is cold forged pistons start with excessive clearance because of this, overall there is just no reason to run such a thing in an NA car especially when you aren't getting free strength without a few side effects. I'm just nitpicky, so its only my opinion, others may not agree but I think Hypers are the way to go, and I know some pro engine builders that agree. I wouldn't recommend it, but I've heard of a 200 shot on a stock bottom LT1, with 11:1 and nitrous, besides making sure the retard is there I'd probably go with KBs. Feel very free to get a more nitrous experienced opinion, I would probably try CamaroZ28.com and hit the nitrous forum.

www.fastassdatsun.com Vette front/rear setup.

Thats why its easier to find a whole car, but if you want to spend $2-$3k for a kit, there was a kit using the carb setup (sucky), you should grab an EFI setup IMO. For that kinda money I'd just go V8.

IMO for a NA motor, forged pistons suck.

geez

I guess with the popup killer I have I didn't notice... Here are some other pages, however usefull is up to you: http://www.corral.net/20anngt/trans.htm http://media.gm.com/division/pontiac/products/eng_tran/fire5spben.html http://www.inliners.org/Jack/t5_page.html http://www.geocities.com/adria-amber/t5page.html http://www.drivetrain.com/vartransp26.html http://ddperformance.com/common_ask_questions.htm

You could just use impala headgaskets, .026" which would raise compression a bit. The stock pistons have 7cc valve reliefs, so you could use that to help calculate what you need. http://docmudge.tripod.com/Tuning/compressionratiocalc.xls

Eh? You'll have to balance everything if you change anything internally. Why change them? I ran stock pistons 11.4:1

First things I'd do, get a manual, and swap all fluids, plus & wires probably next (wires up to your judgement/OHM testing), fuel filter, and so on.

Do you disagree Tim?

Jeff, this is great, thanks for the update! I'd guess on $139ish which is what I payed for my CSI (Camaro), they are not only cheaper than some of the other electric WP products but they are rated to last longer, and I haven't heard of odd failures like I have with other brands.